Rockfax Description
A classic of the crag. Pull onto the wall and trend leftwards before making a move right to the base of a vague groove. Climb the groove to reach a rounded break and then perform the mother of all rockovers to attain a standing position in the break. Tiptoe right and finish up a flake. © Rockfax

FA Stuart Cathcart, P.Waters, D.Barker 9.83 Sep/1983

Ticklists: Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List.

Russell Blackaller 04/Nov/17 Lead RP

2nd go. Fell off rockover onsight, obviously ;-)

with Jonny
marclloyd77 29/Oct/17 Lead RP
with Luke
lukey13 29/Oct/17 Lead β
Luke Brooks 29/Oct/17 Lead RP

2nd go

with Glyn
Glyn 29/Oct/17 Lead β
with Luke
jrccrosby 24/Sep/17 Lead rpt

First go after top roping it the weekend before

with Elsie
jrccrosby 16/Sep/17 TR rpt
with Olly Gluck
mshorter 02/Sep/17 Lead RP
Michael Bortoluzzi 23/Jul/17 Lead RP
mattfarr 12/Jul/17 Lead RP

First 7a in a session.

with Mike
Sophie Nunn 04/Jul/17 TR rpt
with Mark R, Becky G
Sam2257 26/Jun/17 Lead RP

Old nemesis from a few years ago. Never managed the crux move back then, happy to find new way tonight and that it went so quickly.

with Becky
Owen Diba 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ 12/Jun/17 Lead dnf

One intense crimp move at the top, couldn't muster the will to pull on that hold again for the RP.

yan hawkins 12/Jun/17 Lead RP
with _m.cox_
Marti999 22/May/17 Lead RP
with Debbie
Marti999 22/May/17 Lead RP
with Debbie
Leo Woodhead 21/May/17 Lead O/S

What a move - that rock over feels seemingly impossible ... until it isn't. It took quite a while to work out what I needed to do, but after I'd worked out the beta, it went on the first redpoint attempt.

nathanlee 09/May/17 Lead O/S

Worth coming here just to do that mantle

with Heather
HeatherF 09/May/17 Lead dog

Freaked out at the mantle!

with Nathan
Hidden ?/May/17 -
Tom Gale 22/Apr/17 Lead dnf

The rockover/ mantle shut me down. Got completely stumped.

with Nico
DanielleMarie 04/Apr/17 Lead RP
will6459 19/Mar/17 Lead RP
jon_gill1 18/Feb/17 Lead dog

struggled to get the rockover,maybe next time

with Gianluca, martin johnson
andyob 24/Sep/16 Lead RP
with Ste
Hidden 28/Aug/16 Lead RP
richgibson 03/Aug/16 Lead RP
with Clicky, Nik coombs
Hidden 25/Jul/16 Lead dog
adi bryant 17/Jul/16 Lead dnf
with Caryl, Ben
spalice 13/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Placed trad gear but clipped bolts

with Andy Nicholson
Sophie Nunn 05/Jul/16 Lead RP
with Kylie, Becky G
Andy Nicholson ?/Jul/16 Lead RP

I love Climb High

with Spalice
JamesWilliams 27/Jun/16 Lead dog

easy to the mantle shelf then nails. hard for the tall?

adamre12 27/Jun/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 28/May/16 Lead dog
Hidden 28/May/16 Lead RP
Dan Jenkin 28/May/16 Lead β
matt30987 13/May/16 Lead RP
with Dad
tommccluskey 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Jess
Mike W 16/Apr/16 Lead O/S
bigdrew 16/Apr/16 Lead RP
Sophie Nunn 13/Apr/16 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Apr/16 2nd
Hidden 10/Apr/16 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Apr/16 Lead RP
tobydunford 08/Apr/16 Lead G/U
with Kirsty Kerr
The Grist 20/Mar/16 Lead dog

Really tricky finish. I took a few falls and eventually did the move. Even when I did it it felt desperate. One to come back to.

with Tom Doldon
EdGeall ??/2016 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/15 2nd
najki_2000 20/Sep/15 Lead dnf

Ok to get my foot up and rockover however couldn't switch to the palming and get stood up

with Lawrence, Dave Rose
Hidden 20/Sep/15 Lead dog
Jack Delaney 01/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Becky Good
FreddieSmith 31/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Ed Booth 30/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Anna Pugh
spalice 12/Jun/15 Lead RP

F*** YEAH!!!!!

with danny griffith
FreddieSmith 10/Jun/15 Lead RP
morganator 07/Jun/15 Lead RP
with John Roberts
Hidden 06/Jun/15 Lead G/U
Hidden 06/Jun/15 TR dnf
quiffhanger 01/May/15 Lead RP

Thought it had been bolted. So came down after falling of the crux to get some nuts. Did second go but forgot the nuts again so ran it out. Pretty special effort to twice forget to take any gear on a trad climb.

AdamHodgson ??/2015 Lead RP
danJBA 16/Feb/14 Lead dog
with Matthew Larden, Dan Brockwell
Chubbard 29/Sep/13 Lead dnf

No idea how to do then mantle

with C Godfrey
Mattlamb90 08/Aug/13 Lead RP

Hard move!

with ChrisB, Dan, Luke
luke384 08/Aug/13 Lead RP
with matty
mark20 30/Jun/13 Lead G/U

Hard crux

Alex Mason 24/Apr/13 Lead

Flew up to the crux then got duff (misremembered) beta to traverse right along the break and mantle. Inevitably fell off. Got straight back on and made the crux ok.

JBO 26/Aug/12 Lead dog

Took three goes to get the crux mantel, on the first a tiny flake broke off on me, putting me off balance. On the second I didn't commit enough, but on the third it was just right. Shame that move's so hard though, the rest of the route was very pleasant.

spidey 25/Jun/12 Lead RP
with luke owens
Luke Owens 25/Jun/12 Lead dog

Awesome crux move. Flashed up to this then took a couple of goes to do "the" move. Really unique! It now has 3 bolts and feels more like a sport route. Some one should just add another bolt at the top and it would be a cracking 7a.

markalmack 09/Jun/12 Lead dnf

couldn't do the mantle...

GazzerM55 ??/2012 -
kingholmesy ??/2012 Lead dog

What a heartbreaker of a move!

with Andy S
MikeYouCanClimb 01/Oct/11 Lead rpt

The tricky to place wires after the crux are even more tricky since I pulled off the handhold trying to place them. I took a fall and reclimbed, the grade is not affected.

with Matthew
pauldrew 10/Sep/11 TR
Glenn Sutcliffe 28/Aug/11 -
with keefe
keefe 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

A hybrid - probably E4 for effort - F7a

belay bunny turned bad 14/Aug/11 Lead β
with loundsy
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead β
rockjedi 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Keith Sharples, Julian Heath
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Ally Smith 03/May/11 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln 30/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Joe Bertalot
thrutch 22/Oct/10 Lead RP
with Sven
Mark Riley 26/Sep/10 Lead RP
gregoritos 25/Sep/10 Lead β


Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
soph ?/Aug/10 Lead dog
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 27/Apr/10 Lead rpt
phil64 21/Mar/10 Lead

hard for tall and weak!

mattyork2 27/Oct/09 Lead dog
with Johnny Richard
Rich Kirby 27/Aug/09 2nd rpt
with Kev
Hidden ?/Jun/09 -
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
bronsonite 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Lizzie Bowler
Hidden 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S
mattyork2 01/Mar/09 Lead dog

Shit. Tried really hard on the onsight and thought I might have it as I rocked up and on...failed and another two goes later it was home time. Another great day out- super weekend!

with James Gray and Pete Harrison
farmus21 01/Mar/09 Lead dog

awesome...silly mistakes

with Matt Maynard Pete Harrison
galpinos 03/Jan/09 Lead dog

Fell off at rock-over crux. Got the move second go. Need to go back and clean it! F7a

with Ben
Lee Proctor ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 27/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead β
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Cowflinger 13/Sep/08 Lead dog
with Dai Morris
Hidden 10/Jun/08 Lead RP
dts 11/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/May/08 -
Hidden 26/Apr/08 Lead dog
Somerset swede basher 03/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Andy Nicholson
dicky79 06/Jan/08 TR dog
with Pete
bigie bob 01/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 20/May/07 Lead

One rest - nobber!!!!! Fukin good though. should have done it clean.

with Roel Driesen
John Marsland 28/Apr/07 2nd dog

Only rested at crux.

with Goi
goi.ashmore 27/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with John Marsland
guyblackwood 05/Feb/07 TR dog
with Ali and Lee
feilx 05/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with keith
dannyboy83 05/Nov/06 Lead O/S
guyblackwood 05/Nov/06 Lead dog

fell off- never mind- don't normally do this grade for a warm up

with Ricardo,
nige ?/May/06 Lead
with mark hounslea
guyblackwood 14/Apr/06 Lead RP

Awesome! My hardest lead to date by far!

with Gentiane
IOAN D 18/Feb/06 Lead dnf
with Mills
Lee Proctor 22/Jan/06 Lead rpt
with Paul Bolger
guyblackwood 25/Dec/05 TR

2nd attempt.

with Lee led
Mark Riley ?/Mar/05 Lead dog
Rich Kirby ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Ant
Hidden 27/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/2000 Lead
Shaved Atom ??/1999 Lead O/S
Bulls Crack ??/1996 Lead O/S
with AM
Roget 25/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with jon
wynaptomos ?/May/90 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
Mike Owen 25/Sep/86 Lead O/S
with Ian McMullan
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
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Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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