Rockfax Description
The big arete. Start up its left-hand side. Take the arete on its edge (good nuts) to where it eases, and finish in a good position. Upgraded because of reported hold loss. © Rockfax

FA. Stuart Cathcart, John Dee 5.78 May/1978

adamre12 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Crux was easy: Dyno from the break to the massive flat jug and get yer feet on! No harder than HVS 5a.

with Natalia Wasielka
GStone 19/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Marcus Harvey
pftom 19/Jun/16 Lead dog
with Lee Hackland
Hidden 27/May/16 2nd dog
cem 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S

HVS 5a seemed about right to me. Couldn't see where the broken hold used to be.

georgenvk 13/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with cem
GouldHarry ??/2015 -
matthew_ellis24 15/Jul/14 TR dog

Hard going getting past the break. Looks easily protectable, but it's quite a strong move. Once past the crux it's very easy

DaveThexton 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with York uni
millingtonl551 18/Jun/14 Lead RP
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead O/S
Jaysquared69 18/May/14 2nd
with Olly P
Chubbard 05/May/14 2nd O/S
with C Godfrey
Hidden 16/Apr/14 TR RP
Hidden ?/Apr/14 TR RP
Roget 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with robin
Robin Nichols 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
ianstevens 02/Mar/13 Lead dnf

Lobbed off the crux, definately NOT 4c. Don't expect a nice, slightly run HVS, although good gear protects the crux coming out the break. Annoyed not to get this, but not to upset as its definately more like E1/E2 5b.

Hidden 01/Jan/13 Lead dnf
Pete_Frost 14/Oct/12 Lead β

Only one hard move on the entire climb and it isn't 4c, more like 5b! A bombproof medium wire protects it and the rest is easy and protectable (if a bit loose). Should be VS 5b to reflect this discontinuity. Have seen two E2 leaders wobble on this route.

Hinchrn 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
rustaldo 14/Oct/12 2nd O/S

not a wobble in sight! good mileage for Hinchy.

Ray Sparks 13/Oct/12 2nd
with pete frost
Ollie B 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S

not hvs 4c, block missing from big break 5b moves off the ledge to ok holds and then a bit more to gear. E1/2 5b

with C.Radford
P Rogers 27/May/12 Lead dnf

Couldn't stick the moves to the 2nd jug, need to try different approach!!

with matty
Matt Rogers 27/May/12 2nd
trants1 20/Mar/12 2nd dog

fell off pulling over break. Spent the rest of the day moaning. Decided to quit climbing and take up table tennis.

with deklan
deklan 20/Mar/12 Lead
with chris
Hidden 21/Feb/12 Lead dnf
Tangerine_Kingdom 29/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Steve
Hidden 06/Jan/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Dec/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/11 Solo
jmjw 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Bob B
Dino Dave 12/Aug/11 2nd O/S
mksmith35 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Dan Geh 08/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Very easy for HVS, one 4c move, enough gear, but some lose rock towards the top!

with josh smith, Adam Jordan
AMJ098 08/Jun/11 2nd
with Dan Geh
Mattlamb90 19/May/11 2nd O/S
with Luke
Andy_B39 07/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Sam Marland
Sam Marland 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Quite nice, good holds, a little bit run out.

TiffTiff 31/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Charlie Main
John Tanner 31/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Ben Forbes
caradoc 13/Oct/10 Lead

rushed crux and slipped, tricky move

with emma v.
grady ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
migs493 10/Aug/10 Solo O/S
treeminkies 28/Apr/10 TR

nice climb shame bout top rope would be nice to lead it

with allan and neil
Neil Metcalfe101 28/Apr/10 TR
with Allan Mac & John (treeminkies)
The Green Giant 21/Feb/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
HeatherF 21/Feb/10 2nd O/S
with Alex
guido ??/2010 2nd
steven 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Brian Hull
Karlos 01/May/09 Lead O/S
with Ben
neilpotter 11/Apr/09 TR O/S
with pete wall
tbs105 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S

First HVS, bit exposed, felt good.

with Kat
nic42 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Jack
Sgt. Vest 13/Oct/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/08 Lead O/S
SaraKaikk 01/Oct/08 2nd
PanzerHanzler 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Adam W
Hidden ?/Jun/08 TR O/S
DeniseWootten ?/Jun/08 Lead
with Luke Walsh, Umbreen Ahmed, Paul Hendry
Fatclimber 26/May/08 2nd dog

Needed hauling over the crux!!

Hidden 24/May/08 2nd
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
lee richards ??/2008 Lead O/S
with robbo84
vincentvega ??/2008 Lead
with danny robb
Marti999 05/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Guy Buckingham
anguskille 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S

easy climb, good if your starting trad cz u crnt go wrong, although if you fall ur done 4 cz there's so many ledges to hit :S

smallerrich 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Interesting, i'm feeling a solo coming on...

Martin Bennett 27/Aug/07 -
with SF
Ben1983 20/May/07 2nd O/S
andy tetsill ?/May/07 -


John Marsland 10/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Goi
danny 7a+ ?/Mar/07 2nd
with kev ,dave
little trev ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
A Crook 04/Jul/06 2nd
BruceW 01/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Becca
michael burrows 09/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Clucky 05/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 03/Jun/02 Lead

One hard move, well protected, rest is easy - VS 5b

Hidden ??/2000 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/99 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 02/Jul/98 Lead
with Tim Malone
smudge 08/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Rob
ColinD ??/1997 Lead
Hidden ??/1997 -
timjones 28/May/93 TR
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 16
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set