20m.

Rockfax Description
The best route in the gorge. Start at a diagonal borehole strike at head height. The climbing varies from dynamic lunges between jugs to sustained technical crimping and pocket pulling with a lactic-infused crux high up. Low in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 16.8.92 16/Aug/1992

Ticklists

Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List, North Wales Limestone Sport 7s, North Wales 7b and 7b+ starfest!, James' Summer Ticklist

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UserDateNotes
daveayton 15 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route! Much better than it looks! Great fun from the first move to the chains... Get on it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route! Much better than it looks! Great fun from the first move to the chains... Get on it!
Lee Proctor 10 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I did this route again on Sunday. The route is in perfect condition and not crumbly at all. I will get around to cleaning off some of the neighbouring routes this week. There has been a lot of re-bolting and re-eqipping the belays in the gorge recently by John Elcock.
 
Show beta
βeta: I did this route again on Sunday. The route is in perfect condition and not crumbly at all. I will get around to cleaning off some of the neighbouring routes this week. There has been a lot of re-bolting and re-eqipping the belays in the gorge recently by John Elcock.
Andy Farnell 10 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I remember doing this in the early 90's and some holds crumbling on the last section. Was stiff 7b then, do easy 7b+ must be about right now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I remember doing this in the early 90's and some holds crumbling on the last section. Was stiff 7b then, do easy 7b+ must be about right now.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Rob Kelly 10 Jul Lead RP Less than ideal conditions meant I had to pretty much empty the tank on this. Great line but I think Haircut is better.
with Pete H
Less than ideal conditions meant I had to pretty much empty the tank on this. Great line but I think Haircut is better.
with Pete H
Hidden 17 Nov, 2018 Lead rpt
Hidden 20 Oct, 2018 Lead RP
mattbaz 19 Sep, 2018 Lead dog Got shut down, not strong/fit enough!
Got shut down, not strong/fit enough!
Sophie Nunn 11 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
with Glynbob
with Glynbob
keefe 2 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
Sophie Nunn 23 Aug, 2018 Lead dog
with Mike R
with Mike R
Hidden 15 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt
Phil Blue 7 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
with James 1
with James 1
James 1 7 Aug, 2018 Lead RP 3 sessions. Quality line.
3 sessions. Quality line.
atapper21 6 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
with jolucas
with jolucas
jolucas 6 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
atapper21 29 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
with jolucas
with jolucas
DDDD 13 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Destined not to climb this as condensation got worse during the day.
with Sham
Destined not to climb this as condensation got worse during the day.
with Sham
Hidden 12 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 12 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt
JamesWilliams 10 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Bolt to bolt then a good first RP to the top crux moving right out of the Grove will be back if it stays dry
Bolt to bolt then a good first RP to the top crux moving right out of the Grove will be back if it stays dry
peaches69 8 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Quality route, probably could have climbed top 1/3 better.
Quality route, probably could have climbed top 1/3 better.
M_Robinson 7 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt
with Jess Szekely
with Jess Szekely
Dan Arkle 6 Jul, 2018 Lead β Flash after ab.
Flash after ab.
Ed Booth 5 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt
Emilysaladfingers 3 Jul, 2018 Lead RP SO much FUN! What a boss line! Got it on 2nd RP today on a cheeky evening session with Kev. First go I forgot my feet in the top crux, then remembered it was just odd smearing on the calcite holds and got it next go! Such an enjoyable climb, get on it! :)
SO much FUN! What a boss line! Got it on 2nd RP today on a cheeky evening session with Kev. First go I forgot my feet in the top crux, then remembered it was just odd smearing on the calcite holds and got it next go! Such an enjoyable climb, get on it! :)
Sophie Nunn 2 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
with Adam K
with Adam K
Mike_Hayes 1 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
with John Nightingale
with John Nightingale
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 1 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Still not fit enough.
with dparkes
Still not fit enough.
with dparkes
Adam Booth 30 Jun, 2018 Lead dog
with Mark Riley, cankerblossom
with Mark Riley, cankerblossom
M_Robinson 30 Jun, 2018 TR Got smashed trying to lead it, so had a few plays on the TR for fitness
with Adam Knightley
Got smashed trying to lead it, so had a few plays on the TR for fitness
with Adam Knightley
Hidden 30 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
JordanColquhoun 27 Jun, 2018 Lead
Emilysaladfingers 26 Jun, 2018 Lead dog Brilliant line! Much better climbing than the 7a down the other end. Bit of a thin start then big moves between good holds into a calcite-crux. Lovely moves and feels physical and fun climbing! Spent three days on it, one total dog on day one, three dogs on day two and one dog then a failed red point attempt day three. On the RP attempt got mid way through the top crux then just pumped out. Psyched to get back on it.
Brilliant line! Much better climbing than the 7a down the other end. Bit of a thin start then big moves between good holds into a calcite-crux. Lovely moves and feels physical and fun climbing! Spent three days on it, one total dog on day one, three dogs on day two and one dog then a failed red point attempt day three. On the RP attempt got mid way through the top crux then just pumped out. Psyched to get back on it.
Mat Welsh 25 Jun, 2018 Lead RP Fourth go - OS attempt finished mid crux yesterday. Should have ticked it second go yesterday but made a wrong foot placement mid crux and blew it again ! Refined the beta and went much better today. Tricky low down into some big moves on mostly good but greasy holds then a techy & sustained finishing crux sequence on smaller holds to a final big move left. Pumpy ! Then tried Devil's Haircut which felt kinda shit to me ? Then tried Broc & Ice Cream, OS to moving left past the last clip where I made the wrong decision and blew it, much easier than Grand Canyon, disagree with the consensus grade, low in the grade I reckon.
Fourth go - OS attempt finished mid crux yesterday. Should have ticked it second go yesterday but made a wrong foot placement mid crux and blew it again ! Refined the beta and went much better today. Tricky low down into some big moves on mostly good but greasy holds then a techy & sustained finishing crux sequence on smaller holds to a final big move left. Pumpy ! Then tried Devil's Haircut which felt kinda shit to me ? Then tried Broc & Ice Cream, OS to moving left past the last clip where I made the wrong decision and blew it, much easier than Grand Canyon, disagree with the consensus grade, low in the grade I reckon.
Binigo 21 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt Working the extension. Quality day
with Sam2257
Working the extension. Quality day
with Sam2257
Hidden 21 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 7 Jun, 2018 Lead dog
Duncan Campbell 20 May, 2018 Lead dog Amazing route with some brilliant, unique climbing. Unfortunately (here come the excuses) I was feeling tired and thin of skin from cockblock yesterday which, added to the fact that all the big holds were damp or wet meant no send. Will defo be back though as this is brill!
Amazing route with some brilliant, unique climbing. Unfortunately (here come the excuses) I was feeling tired and thin of skin from cockblock yesterday which, added to the fact that all the big holds were damp or wet meant no send. Will defo be back though as this is brill!
Mike_Hayes 20 May, 2018 Lead dnf Puntered off the top after the crux...Wet. One to come back for when it's dry...
with duncan campbell
Puntered off the top after the crux...Wet. One to come back for when it's dry...
with duncan campbell
bigie bob 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Oct, 2017 -
Gaz-Henshall 24 Aug, 2017 2nd dog
with Jack jk
with Jack jk
Jack jk 24 Aug, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 20 Aug, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 20 Aug, 2017 Lead dog
M_Robinson 17 Aug, 2017 Lead dog
with Liz Gulley, Aron Rastrick
with Liz Gulley, Aron Rastrick
jonleighton 12 Aug, 2017 Lead RP
with Butel
with Butel
Hidden 6 Aug, 2017 Lead
Sammy Oakes 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S easy for the grade. extension is not too hard either.
with loakes, sev
easy for the grade. extension is not too hard either.
with loakes, sev
Sophie Nunn 30 Jul, 2017 Lead dog
with Adam B, Mark R
with Adam B, Mark R
Hidden 8 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
Adam Booth 19 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt
with Glyn Hudson
with Glyn Hudson
Adam Booth 17 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt
Ramon Marin 17 Jun, 2017 2nd
Hidden 14 May, 2017 Lead O/S
nathanlee 10 May, 2017 Lead O/S Just amazing, especially low down! Dank location, if this were up on a hill it would be really nice
Just amazing, especially low down! Dank location, if this were up on a hill it would be really nice
PeterDawson 9 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
Binigo 7 Oct, 2016 Lead RP
cymjt 1 Oct, 2016 TR dog
Adam Booth 29 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt
Ed Booth 29 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt warm up and another go after.
warm up and another go after.
Hidden 24 Aug, 2016 Lead RP
sev 21 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Glyn 19 Aug, 2016 Lead RP Awesome! Slipped off the final jug on onsight, went smoothly next go in the dark via head torch. Cool moves interesting all the way with some big reaches!
with Amy UT
Awesome! Slipped off the final jug on onsight, went smoothly next go in the dark via head torch. Cool moves interesting all the way with some big reaches!
with Amy UT
paul ireland 13 Aug, 2016 Lead RP Worked it with a cool breeze then wind died on RP attempt, felt like a different climb got it with a fight. Amazing route best 7b+ I've climbed
Worked it with a cool breeze then wind died on RP attempt, felt like a different climb got it with a fight. Amazing route best 7b+ I've climbed
DDDD 1 Aug, 2016 Lead dog Veeeery long reaches for me, too hard for one day ascent but not bad effort. Good route, interesting location but mud seriously detracts from the experience.
with Sham
Veeeery long reaches for me, too hard for one day ascent but not bad effort. Good route, interesting location but mud seriously detracts from the experience.
with Sham
Sophie Nunn 26 Jul, 2016 Lead dnf
with Mike R
with Mike R
Sophie Nunn 26 Jul, 2016 TR dog
with Mike R
with Mike R
Hidden 6 Jul, 2016 Lead dog
Hidden 6 Jul, 2016 Lead dog
Hidden 24 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Oct, 2015 Lead RP
MikeYouCanClimb 20 Oct, 2015 Lead RP This one was more of a fight for me than broccoli as the hard moves near the top are sustained for longer.
with Patrick
This one was more of a fight for me than broccoli as the hard moves near the top are sustained for longer.
with Patrick
Ed Booth 10 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt Cold hand warm up
Cold hand warm up
anguskille 8 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Awesome stuff, definitely 3*, onsight putting the draws in, psyched for the extension
with Mike Grant
Awesome stuff, definitely 3*, onsight putting the draws in, psyched for the extension
with Mike Grant
Ramon Marin 6 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt laps for training
laps for training
willoates 1 Sep, 2015 Lead RP 1rs redpoint after falling off crux at top onsight. great route! felt ok, thought more like 7b. the 7b to the right is also awesome! extension to GC looks cool too.
1rs redpoint after falling off crux at top onsight. great route! felt ok, thought more like 7b. the 7b to the right is also awesome! extension to GC looks cool too.
Luke Brooks 1 Sep, 2015 Lead β
alaan 1 Sep, 2015 Lead β
with John
with John
Ed Booth 17 Aug, 2015 Lead rpt Training lap after ticking hades, had a go at the extension again, fell setting up for final rock over.
Training lap after ticking hades, had a go at the extension again, fell setting up for final rock over.
Adam Booth 9 Aug, 2015 Lead rpt Trying to get it smooth ready for attempts on the extension!
Trying to get it smooth ready for attempts on the extension!
Ramon Marin 9 Aug, 2015 Lead RP One of the best 7b+s I've done in UK, if not the best. Great boost to my morale as I'm starting to see the end of the long road to recovery
One of the best 7b+s I've done in UK, if not the best. Great boost to my morale as I'm starting to see the end of the long road to recovery
Hidden 9 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
Adam Lincoln 6 Aug, 2015 Lead RP Missed the big pocket on onisght!
with nige
Missed the big pocket on onisght!
with nige
Hidden 30 Jul, 2015 Lead rpt
Hidden 13 Jul, 2015 Lead RP
EdGeall 13 Jul, 2015 Lead dog
nickmoulden 8 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Yeah yeah yeah... Not 7b+, too many big holds. Yard pulling between big holds. Great fun.
with zoe bidula
Yeah yeah yeah... Not 7b+, too many big holds. Yard pulling between big holds. Great fun.
with zoe bidula
Jack Delaney 6 Jul, 2015 Lead RP
with Rhys Evans
with Rhys Evans
will smith11 2 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Tophe
with Tophe
nige 16 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
with ewan mccallum
with ewan mccallum
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 25 Apr, 2015 Lead RP Fantastic route
with Katy Whittaker
Fantastic route
with Katy Whittaker
Hidden 2 Nov, 2014 Lead dog
Adam Booth 2 Nov, 2014 Lead dog In 2 halves, retro flash.
In 2 halves, retro flash.
Tophe 12 Oct, 2014 Lead RP I'd give it 7c+ with a hangover
I'd give it 7c+ with a hangover
fennerz 6 Oct, 2014 Lead RP
with Simon
with Simon
Adam Booth 6 Oct, 2014 Lead RP 1st redders after putting the draws in today. Great route.
1st redders after putting the draws in today. Great route.
Hidden 5 Oct, 2014 Lead dog
Adam Booth 5 Oct, 2014 Lead dog Nearly but tired from yesterday finger boarding
Nearly but tired from yesterday finger boarding
LRob 1 Aug, 2014 Lead β Can't remember the date. Found it Ok. Pumpy 7b would be a better grade. No harder than broccoli. Good route though
Can't remember the date. Found it Ok. Pumpy 7b would be a better grade. No harder than broccoli. Good route though
cjd91 25 Jun, 2014 Lead RP been waiting for for this to be in condition after working it last year. went first red point when I totally didn't expect to. quality route
been waiting for for this to be in condition after working it last year. went first red point when I totally didn't expect to. quality route
Mark Riley 24 Jun, 2014 Lead RP Great route! Good to get it done after all those years of "I can't believe you've not been on Canyon" Will definitely do it again :)
with Jamie Skates, John Christie, Lee Proctor
Great route! Good to get it done after all those years of "I can't believe you've not been on Canyon" Will definitely do it again :)
with Jamie Skates, John Christie, Lee Proctor
Mattlamb90 12 Jun, 2014 TR dog 2 burns, all moves done
2 burns, all moves done
luke384 12 Jun, 2014 Lead RP 2nd go
2nd go
Lee Proctor ??, 2014 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 Lead RP
ksjs 14 Jul, 2013 Lead dog Why didn't I just get on this earlier instead of that rubbish 7c? No psyche by this stage of the day, the Gorge's questionable rock and bolts had drained me. Ultra classic and I really want to do it - definitely need to get back here even if it's only for this.
with owen
Why didn't I just get on this earlier instead of that rubbish 7c? No psyche by this stage of the day, the Gorge's questionable rock and bolts had drained me. Ultra classic and I really want to do it - definitely need to get back here even if it's only for this.
with owen
Adam Booth 5 Jul, 2013 TR dog Wanted to get on this for ages. Felt sustained! Gonna be a hard one I recon. Was wet today and I was knackered so definitely need to get back on it.
Wanted to get on this for ages. Felt sustained! Gonna be a hard one I recon. Was wet today and I was knackered so definitely need to get back on it.
Ed Booth 16 Jun, 2013 Lead RP 2nd go. Dropped flash on move to the flatty at the top. great climb.
2nd go. Dropped flash on move to the flatty at the top. great climb.
Ally Smith 1 Jul, 2012 Lead RP
spidey 27 Aug, 2011 Lead
with DANNY
with DANNY
Hidden 25 Aug, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 24 Aug, 2011 Lead dog
Hidden 10 Aug, 2011 Lead dog
Rob Pitt 18 Jun, 2011 Lead RP
with Pete Harrison
with Pete Harrison
zero six ?Jun, 2011 Lead RP
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?Jun, 2011 Lead RP Brilliant. 1st rp. Very soft for 7b+.
Brilliant. 1st rp. Very soft for 7b+.
doylo 20 May, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 29 Jun, 2010 Lead RP
daveayton 26 May, 2010 Lead RP What a difference a year makes - Easy now!!! Super moves - way better than it looks
with Vince
What a difference a year makes - Easy now!!! Super moves - way better than it looks
with Vince
JM 25 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Rich Hession
with Rich Hession
Rachel Slater 18 May, 2010 TR dog
with Lee Proctor, Pete Sharpe
with Lee Proctor, Pete Sharpe
Hidden 12 Jul, 2009 Lead RP
ksjs 26 Apr, 2009 Lead dog 1st go = o/s attempt, made it to after 1st bulge and pump kicked in. difficult upper section 2nd = 5 rests on upper section 3rd = 1 rest at start of crux and 1 fall going for big pocket that marks end of crux. a very cool route with good climbing from the start and some superb moves. 7b+ fair for this. although bolts are recent, they are rusted though theres enough to save you if one failed
with owen
1st go = o/s attempt, made it to after 1st bulge and pump kicked in. difficult upper section 2nd = 5 rests on upper section 3rd = 1 rest at start of crux and 1 fall going for big pocket that marks end of crux. a very cool route with good climbing from the start and some superb moves. 7b+ fair for this. although bolts are recent, they are rusted though theres enough to save you if one failed
with owen
liam jay ??, 2009 -
guyblackwood 24 Aug, 2006 TR dog in the pit again
with Lee
in the pit again
with Lee
daveayton 13 Aug, 2006 - Foot pinged near the top during the onsight attempt :(
with Rob Whelan
Foot pinged near the top during the onsight attempt :(
with Rob Whelan
daveayton 13 Aug, 2006 -
Hidden 4 Aug, 2006 Lead
guyblackwood 1 Aug, 2006 TR dog worked- but this time did all the moves, and cleanly climbed 2/3- progress....
with Lee
worked- but this time did all the moves, and cleanly climbed 2/3- progress....
with Lee
Lee Proctor 9 Jul, 2006 Lead RP
with Paul Bolger
with Paul Bolger
guyblackwood 18 Jun, 2006 TR dog needs way more power than I have available currently.... would be fantastic though
with Lee led
needs way more power than I have available currently.... would be fantastic though
with Lee led
Alan Cameron-Duff ??, 2000 Lead O/S
with Dave Swaine
with Dave Swaine
Neil McA 18 Jun, 1994 Lead dog In 3 sections. Account - but never returned!
with Beak 2
In 3 sections. Account - but never returned!
with Beak 2
whispering nic ?Sep, 1993 Lead
with Jerry
with Jerry
Andy Farnell ??, 1993 Lead RP Date a rough guess
with whispering nic
Date a rough guess
with whispering nic
27 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set