20m.

Rockfax Description
A good route that is only marginally easier than Grand Canyon. Start just right of Devil's Haircut. A tricky initial 'slabby' pull is followed by a steep sequence of moves to reach good holds. Yard up jugs with a tricky pull through the mid height bulge to reach more jugs. Continue quickly, making a final energy-sapping move to reach the lower-off just beneath the roof. The extension is a project rumoured to be around 8b. © Rockfax

FA. John Codling

Ticklists

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UserDateNotes
Ally Smith 30 Jul Show βeta
βeta: The manky bolt protecting the crux has been replaced with a glue-in (July 2019). The route has a couple of harder moves than Grand Canyon, but isn't as sustained; still a pumpy 7b, especially if conditions aren't perfect.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The manky bolt protecting the crux has been replaced with a glue-in (July 2019). The route has a couple of harder moves than Grand Canyon, but isn't as sustained; still a pumpy 7b, especially if conditions aren't perfect.
daveayton 15 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: What is the short project between Grand Canyon and Broccoli and Ice-cream? I'm assuming as the first two bolt hangers have been removed it's not an open project... Looks like it could continue into the 7b through the bulge
 
Show beta
βeta: What is the short project between Grand Canyon and Broccoli and Ice-cream? I'm assuming as the first two bolt hangers have been removed it's not an open project... Looks like it could continue into the 7b through the bulge
Lee Proctor 21 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I've cleaned up this route. It's in good nick at the moment and certainly worth two stars. Probably 7b+ for the onsight.
 
Show beta
βeta: I've cleaned up this route. It's in good nick at the moment and certainly worth two stars. Probably 7b+ for the onsight.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Glyn 20 Oct Lead rpt Great route, fun to do it again
Great route, fun to do it again
Hidden 21 Sep Lead rpt
Ed Booth 21 Sep Lead rpt
Tom Corras 20 Sep Lead O/S
Ed Booth 10 Sep Lead rpt x3, played on el regalo each go.
x3, played on el regalo each go.
steepstuff 4 Sep Lead RP
with Keith
with Keith
Keith Sharples 4 Sep Lead RP Brilliant route - tricky around 3rd then sustained powerful upper half.
Brilliant route - tricky around 3rd then sustained powerful upper half.
Hidden 1 Sep Lead rpt
Aeron Thomas 1 Sep Lead β
with Molly, James 1
with Molly, James 1
Hidden 31 Aug Lead β
James Oswald 31 Aug Lead dog
with remus
with remus
realbobsmith 30 Aug Lead β
Richard Kendrick 26 Aug Lead dog
with Beth, robf321
with Beth, robf321
robf321 26 Aug Lead dog brilliant moves on the jugs but was like climbing a vertical ice rink for your feet, may be worth checking the humidity next time...
brilliant moves on the jugs but was like climbing a vertical ice rink for your feet, may be worth checking the humidity next time...
Phil Davidson 18 Aug Lead RP Clips in first RPT.....class route indeed
with Phil Jones, Ramon Marin
Clips in first RPT.....class route indeed
with Phil Jones, Ramon Marin
james.slater 15 Aug Lead RP 1st redpoint today, 2nd overall, First 7b! Caught the jug slot at the top by my fingernails, very close call. Brilliant route.
1st redpoint today, 2nd overall, First 7b! Caught the jug slot at the top by my fingernails, very close call. Brilliant route.
Ally Smith 12 Aug Lead dog Trying the r-hand exit. Very scittly at the moment
with Brummie Mat
Trying the r-hand exit. Very scittly at the moment
with Brummie Mat
DeaNomNom 11 Aug Lead RP Attempted on-sight. Got really far but used a bad sequence at the top. Recovering well during rests but two holds before the top were giving diminishing returns.
Attempted on-sight. Got really far but used a bad sequence at the top. Recovering well during rests but two holds before the top were giving diminishing returns.
Hidden 6 Aug Lead RP
keefe 1 Aug Lead RP Super slimy on the start - 3 attempts to get off the ground when I finally got up it.
Super slimy on the start - 3 attempts to get off the ground when I finally got up it.
john lynch 26 Jul Lead O/S
with Will
with Will
Luke Owens 18 Jul Lead RP Has been frustrating falling off the last move in hideous conditions. Felt fine today with a breeze, best 7b I can think of in North Wales.
with Binigo
Has been frustrating falling off the last move in hideous conditions. Felt fine today with a breeze, best 7b I can think of in North Wales.
with Binigo
Glynbob 1 Jul Lead RP
Hidden 17 Nov, 2018 Lead rpt
Adam Booth 24 Oct, 2018 Lead rpt
Adam Booth 21 Oct, 2018 Lead rpt
Sophie Nunn 11 Sep, 2018 2nd dog
with Glynbob
with Glynbob
robertmctague 7 Sep, 2018 Lead RP 2nd try
with Rob
2nd try
with Rob
MathewWright1998 1 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S This is some of the best climbing I’ve ever done! Thought it was brilliant! I wonder what Grand Canyon must feel like!?!
This is some of the best climbing I’ve ever done! Thought it was brilliant! I wonder what Grand Canyon must feel like!?!
atapper21 1 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with jolucas
with jolucas
jolucas 1 Aug, 2018 Lead
Jay-Ast 26 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
James 1 24 Jul, 2018 Lead RP Excellent route! Bottom section was a bit damp and dirty but it didn't detract from such a good line
Excellent route! Bottom section was a bit damp and dirty but it didn't detract from such a good line
Phil Blue 24 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
with James 1
with James 1
Sophie Nunn 12 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Damp!
with Sam2257
Damp!
with Sam2257
Hidden 12 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Clare Dean 11 Jul, 2018 Lead RP Lovely route, flows well, huge holds.
with Sam2257
Lovely route, flows well, huge holds.
with Sam2257
Rob Kelly 10 Jul, 2018 Lead RP Pleased with this, 2nd RP of the 2nd session. Quality climbing.
with Pete H
Pleased with this, 2nd RP of the 2nd session. Quality climbing.
with Pete H
peaches69 8 Jul, 2018 Lead RP Dogged for warm up, then 1st rp
Dogged for warm up, then 1st rp
Dan Arkle 6 Jul, 2018 Lead RP Third to last hold exploded on the onsight!
Third to last hold exploded on the onsight!
Ed Booth 5 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 1 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Messed up the finish on the flash. Felt 2 grades easier than Grand Canyon. Next time.
with dparkes
Messed up the finish on the flash. Felt 2 grades easier than Grand Canyon. Next time.
with dparkes
Adam Booth 30 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
with Mark Riley, cankerblossom
with Mark Riley, cankerblossom
Sam2257 30 Jun, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 30 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
Steve Hickie 28 Jun, 2018 Lead Fun Jug pulling on an impressive face of 20m. Is this really in the UK!
Fun Jug pulling on an impressive face of 20m. Is this really in the UK!
Mat Welsh 26 Jun, 2018 Lead RP Second go - Blew a close OS yesterday moving left past the last clip. Good to refine the finishing moves and climb it again as it is a brilliant wall, feels like pumpy Spanish rock. Disagree this is high in the grade and definitely a grade easier than GC, I think I liked it better than GC too
Second go - Blew a close OS yesterday moving left past the last clip. Good to refine the finishing moves and climb it again as it is a brilliant wall, feels like pumpy Spanish rock. Disagree this is high in the grade and definitely a grade easier than GC, I think I liked it better than GC too
piken 17 Jun, 2018 Lead RP
with Mike Wilson
with Mike Wilson
JordanColquhoun 22 May, 2018 Lead
bigie bob 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Sep, 2017 Lead RP
jonleighton 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S 3 stars, at least as good as Grand Canyon IMO.
with Butel
3 stars, at least as good as Grand Canyon IMO.
with Butel
Hidden 8 Aug, 2017 Lead
Sophie Nunn 1 Aug, 2017 Lead dog
with Andy P
with Andy P
Hidden 30 Jul, 2017 2nd
Binigo 30 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
soph 18 Jun, 2017 Lead dog
Ramon Marin 18 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
with viki harvey
Glyn 18 Jun, 2017 Lead
shed_hed 17 Jun, 2017 Lead RP Fell off on the onsight attempt going for the glory jug at the end of the crux by the chains seriously pumped! Got it second go (still had to really fight on the last move). Big moves on the biggest jugs!
with Glyn
Fell off on the onsight attempt going for the glory jug at the end of the crux by the chains seriously pumped! Got it second go (still had to really fight on the last move). Big moves on the biggest jugs!
with Glyn
Hidden 14 May, 2017 Lead O/S
nathanlee 10 May, 2017 Lead O/S Tricky warm up...
Tricky warm up...
HeatherF 10 May, 2017 Lead dog
SMc 6 May, 2017 Lead RP Warmed up putting the clips in and did it next go
with Marc, Anne
Warmed up putting the clips in and did it next go
with Marc, Anne
Daz Devey 6 May, 2017 Lead dog
with Dave G
with Dave G
Hidden 4 Sep, 2016 TR RP
Sophie Nunn 10 Aug, 2016 Lead dog
with Cherry B
with Cherry B
sev 17 Jun, 2016 Lead RP Absolutely soaking after a week of heavy rain. Lined the base with bin bags to cover the mud and removed all the slime from the start with my tshirt. One of the calcite holds broke and almost hit my dad and I took a huge whipper. Other than that, I guess this was good training?
Absolutely soaking after a week of heavy rain. Lined the base with bin bags to cover the mud and removed all the slime from the start with my tshirt. One of the calcite holds broke and almost hit my dad and I took a huge whipper. Other than that, I guess this was good training?
MikeYouCanClimb 17 Oct, 2015 Lead RP A very good route, quite a stiff crux near the top.
with Matthew
A very good route, quite a stiff crux near the top.
with Matthew
dicky79 11 Oct, 2015 Lead dog
with Phil & Ali
with Phil & Ali
Hidden 8 Sep, 2015 Lead β
Luke Brooks 1 Sep, 2015 Lead β
willoates 1 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S 3 stars, one of the best 7bs in North Wales
3 stars, one of the best 7bs in North Wales
Ramon Marin 30 Aug, 2015 Lead RP Second go, great route. Devils Gorge is a bit of Spain in the Clwyd
with viki harvey
Second go, great route. Devils Gorge is a bit of Spain in the Clwyd
with viki harvey
Hidden 13 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
Adam Booth 27 Jul, 2015 Lead rpt Warmup
Warmup
Jack Delaney 14 Jul, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 13 Jul, 2015 Lead RP
Adam Booth 13 Jul, 2015 Lead rpt Moist! 1st RP.
Moist! 1st RP.
GDun98 8 Jul, 2015 Lead RP Awesome route.
Awesome route.
Tophe 2 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
will smith11 2 Jul, 2015 Lead β
with Tophe
with Tophe
Rob Pitt 14 Oct, 2014 Lead dog Clip to clip then on TR. Not fit enough at the minute.
with Lee Roberts
Clip to clip then on TR. Not fit enough at the minute.
with Lee Roberts
Hidden 5 Oct, 2014 Lead RP
Ed Booth 5 Oct, 2014 Lead rpt
with Rob Ireson
with Rob Ireson
Hidden 1 Oct, 2014 Lead β
LRob 1 Aug, 2014 Lead β Holds were a bit greasy. Brushed them, put the clips in then smash. Really good. As good as grand canyon. Thought it was similar in grade to grand canyon too. Would say both are 7b. Not 7b+
Holds were a bit greasy. Brushed them, put the clips in then smash. Really good. As good as grand canyon. Thought it was similar in grade to grand canyon too. Would say both are 7b. Not 7b+
cjd91 30 Jul, 2014 Lead RP Finally after a few goes. Gave me more trouble than Grand Canyon! Possibly worth 7b+
with phil blue
Finally after a few goes. Gave me more trouble than Grand Canyon! Possibly worth 7b+
with phil blue
Luke Owens 21 Jul, 2014 Lead dog Up to the 2nd bolt was slimey. Re-worked the moves, now have a better method for the lower crux. Still feel a mile off fitness wise.
Up to the 2nd bolt was slimey. Re-worked the moves, now have a better method for the lower crux. Still feel a mile off fitness wise.
Luke Owens 10 Sep, 2013 Lead dog Pumped into oblivion! Still find inital move at the 2nd clip very hard. Good to climb the whole thing on lead though, all be it bolt-to-bolt. Winter endurance training is on the cards...
Pumped into oblivion! Still find inital move at the 2nd clip very hard. Good to climb the whole thing on lead though, all be it bolt-to-bolt. Winter endurance training is on the cards...
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 Lead RP
Luke Owens 28 Jul, 2013 Lead dog Lower crux feels easier now. Tricky section at the final clip.
with Jamie Skates, Lee Proctor, Owen Davies, Mattlamb90, luke384
Lower crux feels easier now. Tricky section at the final clip.
with Jamie Skates, Lee Proctor, Owen Davies, Mattlamb90, luke384
Mattlamb90 28 Jul, 2013 Lead dog Linked from ground to the steep bit at the top first RP. Then it lashed down
Linked from ground to the steep bit at the top first RP. Then it lashed down
luke384 28 Jul, 2013 Lead RP
ksjs 14 Jul, 2013 Lead dog Close - blew the onsight just beneath the chains. Superb and quite physical, I struggled with the initial section where you move left. Get on it!
with owen
Close - blew the onsight just beneath the chains. Superb and quite physical, I struggled with the initial section where you move left. Get on it!
with owen
Adam Booth 5 Jul, 2013 Lead RP 2nd RP today after working it a few weeks back. Great route! 1st 7b since the big E!
2nd RP today after working it a few weeks back. Great route! 1st 7b since the big E!
Ed Booth 16 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Mark Riley 15 Jun, 2013 Lead β
with luke384
with luke384
luke384 15 Jun, 2013 Lead RP
luke384 12 May, 2013 Lead RP Euro route great climbing
Euro route great climbing
tunaficiency 21 Nov, 2012 Lead RP first 7b, 9th redpoint, couldnt do it on top rope. thanks ben for all the belaying, one battenberg coming up :)
first 7b, 9th redpoint, couldnt do it on top rope. thanks ben for all the belaying, one battenberg coming up :)
Mark Riley 11 Sep, 2012 Lead dog
with luke384
with luke384
luke384 11 Sep, 2012 Lead RP
Ally Smith 1 Jul, 2012 Lead RP Harder move than GC, but not as sustained
Harder move than GC, but not as sustained
spidey 7 Apr, 2012 Lead RP
luke384 3 Apr, 2012 Lead RP
Luke Owens 3 Apr, 2012 TR dnf Start felt hard! Will have a better attempt at it next time!
Start felt hard! Will have a better attempt at it next time!
zero six ?Apr, 2012 Lead RP Clips in and got a sequence for the crux, then sent. Top of the grade 7b and brilliant, if a little dusty.
Clips in and got a sequence for the crux, then sent. Top of the grade 7b and brilliant, if a little dusty.
Hidden 17 May, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 12 Jul, 2009 Lead RP
guyblackwood 18 Jul, 2006 TR dog
with Paul
with Paul
Lee Proctor 16 Jul, 2006 Lead RP Feels more like 7b+
with Paul Bolger
Feels more like 7b+
with Paul Bolger
6 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set