20m.

Rockfax Description
A good route with a wild finish. Start just right of An Ivory Smile beneath a groove in the bulge above. Another grubby start reaches good holds below and left of the groove line. A hard press move gains the groove which is followed with difficulty to better holds. Climb the ever steepening smooth wall to a crazy campus-board finish to reach the lip of the gorge. A heel hook can make clipping the lower-off easier. Low in the grade. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Re-bolted, re-cleaned and extended to the top of the crag. This is another three star gorge experience with a powerful bulge low down followed by a technical wall and a truly wild super steep finish with a crazy heal hook to clip the new belay. Now worth 7c. A very memorable route!

FA. Gary Gibson 12.8.92; Extension Lee Proctor 20.9.09 12/Aug/1992

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Ramon Marin 17 Aug Lead RP 3 attempts. Great route, took the easier exit on the right at the top
with viki harvey
3 attempts. Great route, took the easier exit on the right at the top
with viki harvey
keefe 15 Aug Lead RP Quite hard low down to a great fun finish.
Quite hard low down to a great fun finish.
MathewWright1998 12 Aug Lead β Cheers ally!
Cheers ally!
Sam2257 7 Aug Lead RP Outrageous fun! And so completes the North Wales soft 7c triple crown.
Outrageous fun! And so completes the North Wales soft 7c triple crown.
Ally Smith 26 Jul Lead RP 2nd go. Good route, but a bit crystally at the start.
with Inigo, Sam Milner
2nd go. Good route, but a bit crystally at the start.
with Inigo, Sam Milner
john lynch 26 Jul Lead dog Didn't try again, one to go back for..
with Will
Didn't try again, one to go back for..
with Will
nige 6 Jul Lead RP
with ewan mccallum
with ewan mccallum
Rob Kelly 3 Jul Lead RP A soft touch but when the climbing is this good who cares. Not quite the same quality as Haircut but the finishing moves on this are outrageous.
A soft touch but when the climbing is this good who cares. Not quite the same quality as Haircut but the finishing moves on this are outrageous.
Sophie Nunn 25 Sep, 2018 Lead dog
with Sam M
with Sam M
Hidden 15 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
Binigo 6 Aug, 2018 Lead RP Pure fun. Bit soft.
Pure fun. Bit soft.
Hidden ?Aug, 2018 Lead RP
robertmctague 19 Jul, 2018 Lead RP One of the most memorable routes I've ever done. Got it last go of the day by the skin of my teeth, surprised to stick the dyno at the top.
with Inigo
One of the most memorable routes I've ever done. Got it last go of the day by the skin of my teeth, surprised to stick the dyno at the top.
with Inigo
Mark Riley 13 Jul, 2018 Lead RP Good route when in condition :) Awkward groove, rest, then entertaining top half leading to a great finish
Good route when in condition :) Awkward groove, rest, then entertaining top half leading to a great finish
Adam Booth 13 Jul, 2018 Lead RP 2nd RP. Full cut-loose on the top move with wilting arms! Quality!
with Mark Riley
2nd RP. Full cut-loose on the top move with wilting arms! Quality!
with Mark Riley
Adam Booth 8 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Wild top moves! Should go next time.
with Mark Riley
Wild top moves! Should go next time.
with Mark Riley
SMc 7 Jul, 2018 Lead RP 2nd go
with Marc
2nd go
with Marc
Ed Booth 5 Jul, 2018 Lead β Bottom half on Rob's beta. Think I had dogged up to here before but holds were snapping off so stripped it. Top half on sight. so Flonsight.
Bottom half on Rob's beta. Think I had dogged up to here before but holds were snapping off so stripped it. Top half on sight. so Flonsight.
Hidden 30 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
Jack Delaney 9 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
with Emily Barnett
with Emily Barnett
Lee Proctor ??, 2014 -
Lee Proctor ??, 2014 -
ksjs 14 Jul, 2013 Lead dnf This broke my spirit: reports of 3* 7cs to get on and this was it, I mean come on! Dirty rock that breaks and sheds small bits on a move by move basis is not my idea of quality. The crux is good climbing but after this the hollow section of rock and rusted bolts just got to me; maybe I need to come back with different expectations? Could be so good...
with owen
This broke my spirit: reports of 3* 7cs to get on and this was it, I mean come on! Dirty rock that breaks and sheds small bits on a move by move basis is not my idea of quality. The crux is good climbing but after this the hollow section of rock and rusted bolts just got to me; maybe I need to come back with different expectations? Could be so good...
with owen
Hidden 20 Sep, 2009 Lead RP
Hidden 20 Sep, 2009 Lead RP
Mike Owen 10 Jun, 1995 Lead RP
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
2 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set