Rockfax Description
Superb technical and fingery moves interspersed with good shakeouts. The lower half is the most demanding. Finishing directly up the final wall is a fluttery 7b. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Now Bolted - Was E5 6a.30m.

FA. Gary Gibson 11.3.89. Direct - Gary Gibson 23.8.89 11/Mar/1989

Ticklists: Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List.

Jack J Keogan 29/Oct/17 Lead β

Lovely long moves. A massive thanks to Andy for equipping it!

with Andrew
AndrewRoberts89 29/Oct/17 Lead dog

awesome long route! gave it a good go whilst putting the draws in, but needed rests

with Jack
Hidden 08/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/17 TR rpt
Jack Delaney 07/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with cankerblossom, Sam M, Emily Barnett
Hidden 17/Sep/17 Lead O/S
J1_TOV 20/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Found this v tricky to read as a warm up. Not much chalk to follow.

Stuart William 20/Aug/17 Lead β

Really enjoyed this. Which is good because I was on it forever.

with J1 Tov
Jay-Ast 13/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Gympaul 28/May/17 Lead O/S
with Dale
Dave Almond 18/Apr/17 Lead RP
spalice 27/Sep/16 Lead RP

Tried it once before... Went first go today. Awesome sustained climbing!

GouldHarry 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 20/May/16 Lead rpt
with Rob Ireson
Daz8477 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Chuffed to onsight this! ,really good crimpy moves between some well needed rests. Don't think it's the hardest 7a but I'll take it!.

Phil Davidson 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Dave Greenald, Daz Devey
Hidden 05/Jul/15 Lead dnf
FreddieSmith 02/Jun/15 Lead RP
Dale ?/Apr/15 Lead dog

My only sports training for el chorro. Warmed up on gazza stripper and rabble roser then got on this. Tim put the clips in he was tried from a yesterday session in paraselas cave. He scared me a bit made it look hard. So I had a go, got all the moves until the 5th bolt just over third of the way up then ran out of steam completely. Resulting in rests and three falls one being pretty big. O well made it to the top in the end one to come back for with more stamina. Excellent route

with Tim
Tenntenntuihn ??/2015 -
Hidden 05/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Luke Owens 21/Aug/14 Lead RP

2nd go, should of flashed. Classic route!

Ally Smith 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Probably my favourite on this wall. Some good techy moves between breaks and a "fun" run-out to finish

FreddieSmith 01/Aug/14 Lead β
SGD 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

some hard moves to start but then got easier to a monster rest then it gets hard. So chuffed to flash this, the clips were in which im glad of as I would have struggled to put them in on the lead. 6c+/7a? dont know I'll take either.

with Tim
Dan Mckinlay ?/Jul/13 -
ejected ??/2013 -
derico 17/Jul/12 Lead O/S

7a not 6c+.

with Julian
Luke Owens 31/May/12 Lead dog
with Leon Bowen
philhilo 15/Apr/12 TR dog

Short on time so top roped. 7a in old guide and 7a in my book too! Took a few shots on bottom sequence. Rest was stamina fest but quality. Impressed with Helens go on it too.

with Helen E
pauldrew 26/Nov/11 TR
Hidden 09/Jul/11 TR rpt
Lenny 24/May/11 TR
with Mark (Jumper)
Adam Booth 20/Apr/11 Lead RP
Ed Booth 20/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Lead then top roped 3 more times for stamina training. On the lead stepped left where the 2nd old bolt used to be, but there is a way fo doing the move straight that isnt that bad wich i did on the other goes.also looked at the direct direct finish. i presume the direct finish mentioned in the guide is the one that still goes slightly right as straight up would be at least hard eng 6c.

with Rob Ireson
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 20/Apr/11 TR

Top roped x2... Stamina training!

Ed Booth 24/Feb/11 Lead rpt

Pumpy for first time on the wall of the year. Just about hung in there though. My shoes kept coming off too which wasnt making it any easier. Such a cool wall.

dts 05/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
jamiev 25/Jul/10 Lead dog

F7a. Came off near top at move rightwards but was quite tird by then...Very good route.

with Tom Lewis
pauldrew 23/Jun/10 TR
Dave Rumney 23/Jun/10 TR
with Paul Drew
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Joe Grondowski 13/Mar/10 Lead
kingholmesy ??/2010 Lead

Wimped out and pulled on one of the draws to make the clip by the grotty, slopey ledge high up, but otherwise clean.

with Andy S
Macca_7 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S

A tricky little number, hard fingery start to a rest and then two hard moves between two breaks. Pumpy

Steve Long 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Chris Parkin
Hidden 07/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
dominic lee 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with neil foster, andy elliot
Mat Welsh ?/May/09 Lead RP
Ed Booth 13/Apr/09 TR β

Have top roped before. Went up to retrieve clips.

with David Quatermain
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead
Hidden 06/Sep/08 Lead O/S
datoon 25/Aug/08 Lead dog

Fell from the crux - the undercut to the break!!!

with K
Hidden 25/Aug/08 Lead β
Mark Riley 07/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Patrick Green
Hidden 05/Apr/08 TR dog
goi.ashmore 24/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Mark Richardson
Hidden 01/Mar/08 Lead O/S
MikeYouCanClimb 02/Feb/08 Lead RP
with Patrick
samwisethebrave2 ??/2008 Lead dog
with Rob Ireson
steepstuff ??/2006 Lead β
with Rob
Roget 09/Sep/95 Lead O/S

wasn't a sport route back then!

with jon
Gary Gibson 11/Mar/89 Lead

First ascent and the direct. Trad with three bolts at E5 6a

with Hazel
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Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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