UKC

Restricted Access

The site is managed by Shropshire and Montgomery Wildlife Trusts and managed as a nature reserve. Please pay attention to the following: - Climbing is not allowed in the Northern Quarry or on Asterley Rocks. Organised groups wishing to use 'Cul de Sac' quarry - please contact the Red Ridge Centre first to avoid overcrowding. Tel (01938) 810821.  The development of additional new routes may jeopardise the existing access arrangements - please contact the BMC for futher details.

There is an agreement between Shropshire Wildlife Trust, Montgomery Wildlife Trust and the British Mountaineering Council to allow individual recreational climbers and club members to rock climb on the rocks at Llanymynech. Nothing in the agreement is legally binding; however failure by climbers to follow these guidelines could lead to a permanent restriction on climbing at the whole site.The Wildlife Trusts welcomes visitors onto the nature reserve to explore and enjoy at close hand the spectacle of the cliffs and the wildlife this area supports. 

  1.  The whole site is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and as such enjoys a degree of legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 (as amended). The rocks which straddle the English-Welsh border are open to the public as nature reserves by the respective Wildlife Trusts. The area has significant conservation, historical and archaeological interest; in particular there are many rare plants along the base of the cliffs which have developed on the thin limestone soils.
  2.  Climbers should help to conserve the plants and wildlife by not leaving any litter, or by disturbing or removing any soil, vegetation or rock features. This applies equally to the whole site, including the base of cliffs and approach paths, as well as to rock-faces. To protect the special interest of the site no new routes or bolting should be developed without prior consultation and agreement with the Wildlife Trusts.
  3. A seasonal restriction on climbing is in place on Red Walls to safeguard from disturbance legally protected bird species. This extends from March 1st until June 30th. A further permanent restriction on climbing is in place for all climbs on Foreigner Wall - this is to protect the rare plants (and the soils they grow on) that can be damaged by trampling, that grow below this face. Most bolts have been removed from this face. 
  4. Due to the fragile nature of the soils beneath the main cliff-faces these areas are not suitable for large groups under instruction or for abseiling groups. It is recommended that all instructional groups use “Cul de Sac Quarry” on the Montgomeryshire side, which is not part of the nature reserve. Groups wishing to climb here please contact  the Red Ridge Outdoor Centre (Tel no.01938 810821) prior to using this site to ensure that there is no over-crowding or conflict with other users.
  5. Leaders and supervisors of organised groups take full responsibility for the safety, supervision, management and behaviour of those in their charge.
  6. No climbing is allowed at any time for conservation reasons on the area to the right (east) of the route “Clematis” on Red Walls on the Shropshire side of the site and no climbing is allowed at “Asterley Rocks” on the Montgomeryshire side.
  7. The cliffs and rock-faces are inherently unstable and rock falls can occur at any time. In the interest of public safety, especially risks to third parties and other visitors to the site, the Wildlife Trusts reserve the right to prevent climbing at any time if a risk assessment shows there is a significant and immediate threat to public safety.
  8. The areas known as “Cream Walls”, “Blind Faith Buttress” and “Bay Walls” are on land owned by Montgomery Wildlife Trust and have been identified as being particularly unstable. For this reason the Wildlife Trust cannot give permission for public access to this area, and signs and fencing are in place to ensure that the Wildlife Trust fully complies with its legal responsibility.
  9. Climbers ignoring these signs fully accept the additional risks involved and that they are then on this land as trespassers. Wildlife Trust staff and volunteers will advise any members of the public that are seen within the fenced area of this fact. Uncivil responses will be noted and taken into consideration when reviewing any access agreements and therefore we ask members to respect any request to desist from climbing.
  10. All climbing is done solely and completely in the full knowledge that all participants are aware that climbing, hill, walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.
  11. The Wildlife Trusts do not take any responsibility for the placement, maintenance or safety of any bolts or other fixed climbing equipment or for the safety or integrity of the rock faces. All climbers have to be aware and accept that the rock-face is inherently unstable and no fixed equipment at this site has been tested or inspected. Climbers have to make their own judgement based on experience as to the safety and suitability of any fixed equipment and of the stability of the cliff faces

 

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Keep an eye open for signs detailing the nesting restriction in the Red Wall area. Currently all routes on Foreigner Wall are permanently restricted. Seasonal Restrictions apply to all routes on Red Walls from 1 March to 30 June.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant face pitch on fine rock, once again featuring a fingery and technical upper wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An impressive pitch tackling the centre of the smoothest section of the wall and saves its hardest section to the final 10m. Fingery and superb.

Ticklists

Clwyd Limestone *** Routes

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User Date Notes
Gary Gibson 1 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson
βeta?
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson

Logged Ascents

97 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Llanymynech Quarry

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dead Man's Fingers

Grade: 7a ***
(Llanymynech Quarry)

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