Rockfax Description
A great pitch that weaves its way up the centre of the face. The climbing is sustained, route finding intricate, and the route is high in the grade. Start on the highest point of the earth mound then step left onto a narrow ledge and make a steep move to get established on the wall. Climb up until a horizontal traverse right, with feet level with a low peg (on Black Bastard) can be made, to beneath a line of pockets. Climb these, past an old thread, to a break. Continue direct up the thin wall to a more broken band of rock. Traverse left to a corner and climb this to its top. Move up the next short wall before hand traversing right to the finishing ledge. © Rockfax

FA. G.Caine, E.Austrums 4.10.70. Direct start Doug Kerr, S.Grove 25.7.87 04/Oct/1970

Ticklists: Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List.

Hidden 17/Jul Lead rpt
Tenntenntuihn ??/2017 -
Somerset swede basher 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Andy Nicholson
Andy Nicholson 08/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Martin Haworth 12/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 12/Aug/16 2nd O/S
SGD 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S

I've wanted to do this for some time. Finally did it today although I forgot the guide book! Anyway I climbed to high and did the 1st traverse well above where you should then traversed back left to early and ended up at the peg on black bastard. Oh well at least I got a good tour of the wall. Excellent climbing marred by the poor rock at 2/3 height.

Hidden 21/Jul/16 2nd rpt
scottyp 21/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Joe north
Phil Davidson 08/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Did some harder finish between original and direct, unintentionally

with Dave Greenald
Hidden ??/2016 -
Scott Quinn 29/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Tom.Priestley 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Nice but wanders. Took some working out to find the right way.

mattfarr 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Joe
marlow83 ?/Jul/15 Lead
Radical-G 09/May/15 Lead O/S
james.slater 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Not as good as expected, wanders a lot and the rock is pretty variable! Some short sections of nice moves, but felt bottom end E1

Andrew171 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden ??/2014 Lead
pauldrew 08/Oct/13 Lead
Pete_Frost 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

The bottom two thirds up to the easy, broken band are a pure pleasure. Perfect, constricting nut slots in good rock. There is some loose rock in the easy traverse. Leave some extenders and gear for the corner and hand traverse. Top tip: bring secateurs to trim the hawthorn bush and wild roses that crowd the belay (ouch!).

with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 27/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/13 TR O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Bulls Crack 20/Aug/12 2nd

A big outing with some interesting climbing but not 3 stars - the rock is only 'good' in a relative sense!

with SP
bob johnson 17/Jul/12 2nd

great climb - not as technical as i thought - rock is good

with Rich Ball
rurp ?/Jan/12 Lead O/S
caradoc 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S

a few variations seemed possible, belay at top not ideal.

with lawson d
kingholmesy ??/2011 2nd O/S
with Andy S
uphillnow ??/2011 -
jparry75 12/Jul/10 Lead

Been meaning to do this for a long time.........

with niall davies
Antony Mottershead ??/2010 -
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
tmawer 29/Sep/09 Lead β
with chris king
Rich35 ??/2009 Lead
matt30987 ??/2009 Lead RP
with Dad
Ally Smith ??/2009 -
Hidden 07/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/08 TR
samwisethebrave2 22/Apr/08 2nd
with Tim Evans and Evans
Hidden 16/Apr/08 Lead dog
smallerrich 27/Jan/08 Lead O/S

The abseil at the top of this is awkward, as theres some thorn bushes in the way that snag the ropes, however the route itself is amazing

Ed Booth ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Dale ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S

pleased with this one of my objectives for the year. gr8 route

with dave
Coel Hellier ?/Sep/07 Lead
John Marsland 28/May/07 Lead O/S
with Goi
Hidden ?/Mar/07 2nd
Hidden 16/Sep/06 2nd
a_radiohead_fan ?/Sep/06 -
Hidden ?/Apr/06 2nd
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/05 Lead O/S
W d c ??/2005 Lead O/S

Cracking route. Seconded by Chris wearing a harness made from slings.

with Chris Guest.
lost.arrow 04/Aug/01 TR
with Nikki Hawkins
Hidden ?/Sep/98 Lead O/S
plain kitten 21/Feb/98 Lead


Nigel Coe ??/1997 -
with Dick Hanson
Rob Davies ??/1993 AltLd dnf

Date? 1st visit to Llanymynech without having much information. We didn't even know how to find the crag and abseiled in from the top, with the intention of looking at Black Wall. Bird-spotter politely told us that the wall was out-of-bounds due to nesting peregrines. Pete, a twitcher himself, ever tactful: "I've just come back from New Zealand where they are vermin." Of course, we went away without trying anything.

with Pete Hemmings
Hidden 15/Apr/89 Lead
Nigel Bond 26/Jul/83 Lead
with Nick
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
jon 07/Sep/80 Lead
with henry
Gary Gibson ??/1976 2nd

Early free ascent?

with Phil Gibson
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High E2
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Flashed (β)
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