40m.

Rockfax Description
A great pitch that weaves its way up the centre of the face. The climbing is sustained, route finding intricate, and the route is high in the grade. Start on the highest point of the earth mound then step left onto a narrow ledge and make a steep move to get established on the wall. Climb up until a horizontal traverse right, with feet level with a low peg (on Black Bastard) can be made, to beneath a line of pockets. Climb these, past an old thread, to a break. Continue direct up the thin wall to a more broken band of rock. Traverse left to a corner and climb this to its top. Move up the next short wall before hand traversing right to the finishing ledge. © Rockfax

FA. G.Caine, E.Austrums 4.10.70. Direct start Doug Kerr, S.Grove 25.7.87 04/Oct/1970

Ticklists

Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List

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UserDateNotes
Fiend 3 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Seconded this. A very big route with plenty of interest and quite a few cruxes packed into the right hand crack.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seconded this. A very big route with plenty of interest and quite a few cruxes packed into the right hand crack.
jim jones 17 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Didn't think there was much difference between this & Black Bastard, (apart from the loose traverse), & probably worth E2 for seriousness.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Didn't think there was much difference between this & Black Bastard, (apart from the loose traverse), & probably worth E2 for seriousness.
JMarkW 15 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A good outing! Some loose rock and sandy breaks in places, but the rock is good where it counts. Loads of gear - take plenty, although I wouldn't want to fall on the thread. Not particuarly high in the grade, just some thought about route finding and ropework required. Fantastic views from the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good outing! Some loose rock and sandy breaks in places, but the rock is good where it counts. Loads of gear - take plenty, although I wouldn't want to fall on the thread. Not particuarly high in the grade, just some thought about route finding and ropework required. Fantastic views from the top.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
ASchwirtz 26 Aug Lead O/S
with Ian Wyatt
with Ian Wyatt
Gympaul 2 Jul Lead O/S
BTphonehome 31 May Lead O/S A good intricate route let down by a lot of choss.
with tmawer
A good intricate route let down by a lot of choss.
with tmawer
tmawer 31 May 2nd rpt
Hidden 19 May Lead O/S
Charlotte Spencer 19 May -
Klaudio 13 May Lead β First E1, really positive climbing with a pretty big run out in the middle, good quality rock on a really long route, took me almost an hour.
First E1, really positive climbing with a pretty big run out in the middle, good quality rock on a really long route, took me almost an hour.
Matthew Davies 20 Apr Lead O/S
with Klaudio Hacaj
with Klaudio Hacaj
mkbk93 13 Apr Lead O/S
with Dan Webster, amy.hill13
with Dan Webster, amy.hill13
Dave Almond 10 Apr 2nd O/S
with Liam Gaston
with Liam Gaston
TCarrick 27 Mar Lead
David Dickinson 23 Mar Lead O/S My first E1, nice steady climbing, good pro. Thanks to Elodie for epic belay!
with Elodie
My first E1, nice steady climbing, good pro. Thanks to Elodie for epic belay!
with Elodie
LaAnnaPurna 17 Jan Lead A big block came off under my feet on the first travers and nearly took my belayer out. A fight this was
A big block came off under my feet on the first travers and nearly took my belayer out. A fight this was
JendeHoxar 28 Dec, 2018 Lead O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 28 Dec, 2018 2nd
shaun goodey 25 Oct, 2018 Lead got pumped placing gear had a rest
got pumped placing gear had a rest
TimMorgan 8 Aug, 2018 2nd rpt
with Clegm
with Clegm
Clegm 8 Aug, 2018 Lead
mattbaz 1 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S First E1
First E1
TimMorgan 31 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Very nice.
with Marta
Very nice.
with Marta
DubyaJamesDubya 28 Apr, 2018 Lead
fuzzysheep01 28 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S
Pete_Frost 15 Oct, 2017 2nd rpt Fun to follow. Felt harder to second than to lead.
with AndrewP
Fun to follow. Felt harder to second than to lead.
with AndrewP
AndrewP 15 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
Joepenfold 17 Jul, 2017 Lead rpt
Tenntenntuihn ??, 2017 -
Somerset swede basher 8 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
with Andy Nicholson
with Andy Nicholson
Andy Nicholson 8 Oct, 2016 2nd O/S
Martin Haworth 12 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 12 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
SGD 31 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S I've wanted to do this for some time. Finally did it today although I forgot the guide book! Anyway I climbed to high and did the 1st traverse well above where you should then traversed back left to early and ended up at the peg on black bastard. Oh well at least I got a good tour of the wall. Excellent climbing marred by the poor rock at 2/3 height.
with vholmes
I've wanted to do this for some time. Finally did it today although I forgot the guide book! Anyway I climbed to high and did the 1st traverse well above where you should then traversed back left to early and ended up at the peg on black bastard. Oh well at least I got a good tour of the wall. Excellent climbing marred by the poor rock at 2/3 height.
with vholmes
Joepenfold 21 Jul, 2016 2nd rpt
scottyp 21 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
with Joe north
with Joe north
Phil Davidson 8 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Did some harder finish between original and direct, unintentionally
with Dave Greenald
Did some harder finish between original and direct, unintentionally
with Dave Greenald
JoeFranklin 10 Apr, 2016 2nd
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Scott Quinn 29 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
Tom.Priestley 29 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Nice but wanders. Took some working out to find the right way.
Nice but wanders. Took some working out to find the right way.
mattfarr 3 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Joe
with Joe
marlow83 ?Jul, 2015 Lead
Radical-G 9 May, 2015 Lead O/S
james.slater 20 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Not as good as expected, wanders a lot and the rock is pretty variable! Some short sections of nice moves, but felt bottom end E1
Not as good as expected, wanders a lot and the rock is pretty variable! Some short sections of nice moves, but felt bottom end E1
Andrew171 24 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
gemmapig 24 Aug, 2014 2nd
Hidden 9 Aug, 2014 2nd
Hidden 9 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 6 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with annaEM
with annaEM
Hidden ??, 2014 Lead
pauldrew 8 Oct, 2013 Lead
Pete_Frost 6 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S The bottom two thirds up to the easy, broken band are a pure pleasure. Perfect, constricting nut slots in good rock. There is some loose rock in the easy traverse. Leave some extenders and gear for the corner and hand traverse. Top tip: bring secateurs to trim the hawthorn bush and wild roses that crowd the belay (ouch!).
with Megan Beaumont
The bottom two thirds up to the easy, broken band are a pure pleasure. Perfect, constricting nut slots in good rock. There is some loose rock in the easy traverse. Leave some extenders and gear for the corner and hand traverse. Top tip: bring secateurs to trim the hawthorn bush and wild roses that crowd the belay (ouch!).
with Megan Beaumont
Joepenfold 27 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Jul, 2013 TR O/S
Hidden 14 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
Bulls Crack 20 Aug, 2012 2nd A big outing with some interesting climbing but not 3 stars - the rock is only 'good' in a relative sense!
with SP
A big outing with some interesting climbing but not 3 stars - the rock is only 'good' in a relative sense!
with SP
bob johnson 17 Jul, 2012 2nd great climb - not as technical as i thought - rock is good
with Rich Ball
great climb - not as technical as i thought - rock is good
with Rich Ball
rurp ?Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
caradoc 19 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S a few variations seemed possible, belay at top not ideal.
with lawson d
a few variations seemed possible, belay at top not ideal.
with lawson d
kingholmesy ??, 2011 2nd O/S
with Andy S
with Andy S
uphillnow ??, 2011 -
jparry75 12 Jul, 2010 Lead Been meaning to do this for a long time.........
with niall davies
Been meaning to do this for a long time.........
with niall davies
Antony Mottershead ??, 2010 -
Seymore Butt ??, 2010 Lead
tmawer 29 Sep, 2009 Lead β
with chris king
with chris king
Rich35 ??, 2009 Lead
matt30987 ??, 2009 Lead RP
with Dad
with Dad
Ally Smith ??, 2009 -
with EmilyG
with EmilyG
Hidden ?Jul, 2008 TR
samwisethebrave2 22 Apr, 2008 2nd
with Tim Evans and Evans
with Tim Evans and Evans
Hidden 16 Apr, 2008 Lead dog
smallerrich 27 Jan, 2008 Lead O/S The abseil at the top of this is awkward, as theres some thorn bushes in the way that snag the ropes, however the route itself is amazing
with fennerz
The abseil at the top of this is awkward, as theres some thorn bushes in the way that snag the ropes, however the route itself is amazing
with fennerz
Ed Booth ??, 2008 Lead
Hidden 11 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
Dale ?Sep, 2007 Lead O/S pleased with this one of my objectives for the year. gr8 route
with dave
pleased with this one of my objectives for the year. gr8 route
with dave
Coel Hellier ?Sep, 2007 Lead
John Marsland 28 May, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Mar, 2007 2nd
steveb2006 16 Sep, 2006 2nd
a_radiohead_fan ?Sep, 2006 -
Hidden ?Apr, 2006 2nd
Hidden ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Oct, 2005 Lead O/S
pete johnson 4 Jul, 2004 -
with Kevin Sales
with Kevin Sales
lost.arrow 4 Aug, 2001 TR
with Nikki Hawkins
with Nikki Hawkins
Hidden ?Sep, 1998 Lead O/S
plain kitten 21 Feb, 1998 Lead SR
SR
Nigel Coe ??, 1997 -
with Dick Hanson
with Dick Hanson
pete johnson 13 Aug, 1996 -
with Hughie
with Hughie
Rob Davies ??, 1993 AltLd dnf Date? 1st visit to Llanymynech without having much information. We didn't even know how to find the crag and abseiled in from the top, with the intention of looking at Black Wall. Bird-spotter politely told us that the wall was out-of-bounds due to nesting peregrines. Pete, a twitcher himself, ever tactful: "I've just come back from New Zealand where they are vermin." Of course, we went away without trying anything.
with Pete Hemmings
Date? 1st visit to Llanymynech without having much information. We didn't even know how to find the crag and abseiled in from the top, with the intention of looking at Black Wall. Bird-spotter politely told us that the wall was out-of-bounds due to nesting peregrines. Pete, a twitcher himself, ever tactful: "I've just come back from New Zealand where they are vermin." Of course, we went away without trying anything.
with Pete Hemmings
Hidden 15 Apr, 1989 Lead
Nigel Bond 26 Jul, 1983 Lead
with Nick
with Nick
Hidden ??, 1983 Lead
Hidden 7 Sep, 1980 Lead
Gary Gibson ??, 1976 2nd Early free ascent?
with Phil Gibson
Early free ascent?
with Phil Gibson
19 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 21
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set