Rockfax Description
The eye-catching left arete of the wall is a stunning, but bold undertaking. Start beneath the arete on its right-hand side.
Pull onto a slab, then head through the overlaps prior to making a hard move to get established on the wall, and clip the first bolt at 8m. Fine but easier climbing remains passing one more bolt. A skyhook placement is possible before the hard move. © Rockfax

FA. Chris Nicholson 4.84 Apr/1984

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Hidden 15/Feb Lead RP
Dan Arkle 21/Aug/18 Lead O/S

1st clip in. So enjoyable

felixwilkins 27/Jul/18 Lead β

Preclipped first bolt. 7a

Hidden 12/Apr/18 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Mar/18 Lead RP
Nathan Chrismas 17/Dec/17 TR
Russell Blackaller 16/Dec/17 Lead β

I've been saving this for a long time! After a lot of upping and downing, i finally gave in to some sweeta beta. Glad i did too, as i was going to make a right meal out of it the way i was going to try.

Martin Bagshaw 09/Dec/17 Lead dog

Close to the RP, moved dialled. Would have had it if more light.

with S.Kew
Hidden 25/Nov/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Nov/17 TR
Tom Corras 15/Jun/17 Lead RP

Climbed with first bolt preclipped

drcorbasisgod ?/Apr/17 Lead RP
Toby Dunn ??/2017 Lead
Solomon Kemball Dorey 16/May/16 Lead RP
EmilyFell 15/May/16 Lead RP
Rory Bascombe ?/Apr/16 Lead β

Preclipped 1st

Dom Taylor 24/Feb/16 Lead
JKinsella 26/Nov/15 Lead RP

Awesome, great to tick a route on rock after over a year! Climbed with first bolt preclipped, solid 7a at least like this. Way harder than any 6c I've ever climbed!

BC 27/Aug/15 Lead RP

First bolt pre clipped.

AlexD 10/Jun/15 TR RP
with Vicky, Marti999
KDhruev 12/May/15 Lead RP

pre-cliped first bolt

Nathan Chrismas 09/May/15 Lead dog

First bolt pre-clipped. Rested at the bolts, took a few goes to get the first section dialled. Will be back for the redpoint.

Joedt 04/Apr/15 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Mar/15 TR RP
Hidden 17/Mar/15 TR RP
Hidden 24/Jan/15 Lead O/S
NancyJones 10/Jan/15 TR dog
ptrickey ??/2015 Lead G/U
dan gibson 06/Aug/14 Lead RP
lewisrichardson ?/Aug/14 Lead RP
with dad
5210Hill 22/Jul/14 Lead RP

First bolt clipped with clip stick

Elaine Bunn 13/Jun/14 Lead β

First bolt pre-clipped

Hidden 07/Jun/14 Lead RP
Dave Searle 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

after trying to find the B**ls to onsite with a skyhook a few years back decided to do it the wobbly clip stick "sport climbing" (?)way... awesome route though!

jfreeman 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Rhoslyn Frugtniet
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead RP
rhoslynfrugtniet 28/May/14 Lead
with newberry
alice fuller 25/May/14 Lead

7a lead with 1st qd in

Hidden 01/Apr/14 Lead RP
guy xavier percival 12/Mar/14 Lead RP

This feels bold for E5. The moves up to the bolt feel hard and insecure, the landing is bad. Glad I practiced the moves whilst being lowered on the 7a version

with paul
Hannah Brading 09/Mar/14 2nd RP
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead O/S

Been saving this for ages. A good Christmas Eve tick. Those that pre-clip the bolt are missing all the fun.

Ellis Butler-Barker 09/Dec/13 Lead RP

With pre placed sky-hook

with Nick
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead dog
Ramon Marin 05/May/13 Lead RP
with jerome mowat
Hidden 31/Jan/13 Lead rpt
Dan 85 27/Jan/13 Lead RP
Marti999 04/Jan/13 Lead β

did it the sports way, to early in the year to break a leg.

AlexD 04/Jan/13 2nd dog
with Debbie, Marti999
adam cooper*super* 30/Sep/12 Lead RP

With mark, both ticked it, happy days.

Hidden 30/Sep/12 Lead RP
chris j 28/Sep/12 Lead rpt

First bolt pre-clipped.

with Ben Bradford
tom106 27/Aug/12 Lead β
TCCB 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
bunn.aroundthebloc 01/Jul/12 Lead β

Flash, preclipped 1st bolt. So wreckless.

with Tom Newberry
Luke Dawson 31/May/12 Lead β

sport 6c

gg4419 ?/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Cailean Harker ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Popkids 18/Dec/11 TR dog

This was hard,but managed all the moves in the end.Just now need to link them together

with Kafoozalem
dannyboy83 13/Nov/11 Lead RP
with Tophe
Chris_barr 10/Sep/11 Lead RP

With first bolt sadly.

with Theo
Hidden 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead RP
Ed Booth 29/May/11 Lead dnf

Had a quick probe for a minute, but decided to leave it for another time...

Kevster 14/May/11 Lead RP

2nd go. 7a version.

gg4419 ?/May/11 TR dog

Tendon recovery

pezzerrr 23/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Oct/10 Lead O/S
hamer89 05/Sep/10 Lead RP
eugeneth 15/Aug/10 Lead dog

did with first bolt clipped (F7a/+) as don't want to die. Nails move to flaky gaston and then not too bad. Conditions were too greasy for the send. Next time

sparkass 07/Aug/10 Lead RP

Redpoint. Great! lovely flowing climbing on great rock!

with John Bent
Mike Goldthorp 30/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Sweet moves, I love arete climbing! Cheeky heel manouvere was sweet on the crux... Bold E5, essentially a short f7a crux then fairly steady away

Alex Mason 30/Jul/10 Lead β

Real nice climbing up the arete, felt really tired trying it so clipsticked first bolt andwas glad of it when i got up there. 7a.

Hidden 20/Feb/10 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Feb/10 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Feb/10 TR RP
John Mcshea ??/2010 Lead O/S
with ben b
ecowaller ??/2010 Lead O/S

oh my god so out there!

with bunny
chris j 09/Nov/09 Lead RP

1st bolt preclipped as I value my ankles/back... So I guess sport 7a for me rather than E5!

with Jerome
Hidden ??/2009 -
Justin T 15/Nov/08 Lead RP

Awesome route - beautiful climbing - not as scary as it looks! Linked moves on top-rope second go then couple more runs for confidence then led with QDs in and my jacket spread out on the brambles as the first bit of gear...

with Cusco
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead β
tuftynick ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Tidy, James Ibbotson
Hidden 29/May/00 Lead O/S
Simon cook ??/2000 Lead RP

First bolt clipped

CraigMac1 ??/2000 TR
robyn1 ??/1996 -
robyn1 ??/1996 -
Davros the Psyched ??/1995 Lead O/S

Old skool style for E5 tick: fell off before 1st bolt and belayer pulled me into the bush (now gone).

pmot ??/1994 TR O/S
mattnuttall 06/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Hidden 26/Jun/93 Lead O/S
frank ramsay 18/Aug/91 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/90 Lead G/U
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 13
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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