15m.

Rockfax Description
A very impressive sport route. Start at the sloping shelf that cuts in from the right.
Stand on the shelf and move up to a thin break. Move right and use a finger-crack and sloping holds to reach a good finger pocket. Use the pocket to gain a jug that allows a shake-out before the final bouldery upper wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A very impressive sport route. Start at the sloping shelf that cuts in from the right.
14m. Stand on the shelf and move up to a thin break. Move right and use a finger-crack and sloping holds to reach a good finger pocket. Use the pocket to gain a jug that allows a shake-out before the final bouldery upper wall.

FA. Nick White 1988

Ticklists: THE classic old skool 8a's, The road to 8a, West Country Climbs, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Classic Anstey's, South West 8's, UK 8a and up.


ClimberDateStyle
Luke Dawson 29/Sep/18 Lead rpt
nickmoulden 05/Aug/18 Lead RP

Was too hot for me. Took 3 days to get it, very polished and a bit disappointed with the state of the climbs here...

with zoe bidula
Owen Diba 08/Jul/18 Lead dog

So bloody hot. Fell repeatedly at the last move to the jug :'(

Owen Diba 25/Jun/18 Lead dog

Fell just past the jugs

with Brian Taylor, Joe Crolla, Laurence Everitt
BenNorman 25/Jun/18 Lead RP

Nice to finish this off, went extremely smoothly on the send. Should have done it the trip before but ended up putting in some good links to smooth the whole process. Great route. V4,v5,bad rest, v4

Finley1234 18/Jun/18 Lead RP

Pretty hard moves.

Dandan 09/Jun/18 Lead dog

3 goes, all moves done with he help of some written beta and some local knowledge. Wasn't convinced at first but once the sequences were unlocked I could see the attraction of the line. Must find an excuse to come back and finish this off.

GwynethUttley 04/Jun/18 Lead RP
joshdownham23 28/May/18 Lead dnf

HARD! Need to let my injured finger heal a bit and then I’ll be back!

felixwilkins 10/May/18 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Oct/17 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Oct/17 Lead dog
twm 15/Aug/17 Lead RP
with Dale Turrell, Finn
BeastintheWest 24/Jun/17 Lead RP
with Paul Roberts
JackMac 16/Jun/17 Lead dnf

Hmm, definitely going to need better beta...

jacobjohncharles 31/May/17 Lead RP
DrGav 28/May/17 TR dnf

First section plausible with a pop but not close on the middle section pockets.

with Luke
Hidden 07/May/17 Lead dog
Rory Bascombe 22/Apr/17 Lead RP

Flippin took me ages but finally got it after like 2 years or something....

with Tim, LeggingsQueen
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 14/Apr/17 Lead dog

Similar in style to Raindogs, insofar as it doesn't have any really hard moves - just a lot of pretty hard ones. It certainly inspired and is definitely one to come back for.

drcorbasisgod ?/Apr/17 Lead dog
Keendan 26/Mar/17 Lead dog

2 day's work. Had to learn beta from a tall man who was there trying it.

tobydunford 19/Mar/17 Lead dog

All moves done now, some great moves. Favourite is moves through the first little overlap into the groove!

with Oli
tobydunford 12/Mar/17 Lead dog

The journey begins. This might have a few entries! Worked a lot of the moves well, crucial pocket absolutely soaking and all the top wet so only worked bottom half. Looks like a belting project for me, steep and crimmpy!

with Oli
ricci.andrea86 ?/Mar/17 Lead dog

super nice route! I'll come back when stronger!

Russell Blackaller 19/Jan/17 Lead RP
Hugobristol 09/Dec/16 Lead dog

Reccy mission. would be better to be a bit fresher to see if it is project-able in the near future!

with Ian
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 07/Nov/16 Lead dog

Went for the flash, pumped crazy. What a great line.

Solomon Kemball Dorey 06/Nov/16 Lead RP
Tom Corras 12/Oct/16 Lead RP
blaza1 29/Sep/16 Lead RP

Yay!

with mark tomlinson
AJM 25/Sep/16 Lead dog

Key links - sika to chains, second to fourth, ground to post-sika unwind. It's coming together, just slowly.

with Dizz
blaza1 22/Sep/16 Lead dog

Fell off the top.

with mark tomlinson
blaza1 16/Sep/16 Lead dog
Matt.c.Warner 31/Aug/16 Lead RP

Unexpectedly did this on my second go today after years of coming down to try it.

with fred
BenNorman 14/Aug/16 Lead dnf

One quick burn before sunset, fell off going into fingerlock, so much fun

evanstone 30/Jul/16 Lead RP

Project finnaly sent

Kris suriyo 18/Jun/16 Lead RP

Great route https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8mhu7Zl3y8

Hidden ?/Jun/16 Lead dog
blaza1 29/May/16 Lead dog

Fell at the second crux

blaza1 23/May/16 Lead dog
with liam jones, i_a_coops, Freya
Gus 04/May/16 Lead dog

Awesome, basic route!

AJM 17/Apr/16 Lead dog

Progress. Into crux from the ground and decent links of the rest.

with hms
brices 17/Apr/16 Lead dog
Glyn 09/Apr/16 Lead RP

4th rpt of the day, working out a different sequence for the top made all the difference

Hidden 22/Mar/16 Lead RP
JM 13/Mar/16 Lead RP
with Anna Reiners
AJM 12/Mar/16 Lead dog
with hms
Hidden 12/Mar/16 Lead dog
dancole ?/Jan/16 Lead dnf
will smith11 30/Aug/15 Lead RP

Tried this a couple times years ago. 2nd go today.

Hidden 20/Jun/15 Lead dog
Davros the Psyched 08/Jun/15 Lead rpt
jonleighton 06/Jun/15 Lead RP

My first 8a, finally done after working it over 6 separate weekends during the course of about a year :)

Jonny_86 26/Apr/15 Lead RP
with Ro Jones, derico
grey wolf 14/Apr/15 Lead β

Glad to make this happen!

rhoslynfrugtniet 22/Mar/15 Lead RP
with dan dyson
brices 21/Mar/15 Lead dog

In two halfs,

James Mabon ??/2015 -
Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead RP
i_a_coops 04/Oct/14 -
with quiffhanger, Jenny
Tom Briggs 29/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Dave Ferguson
Jack_F 08/Aug/14 Lead RP

Good conditions and a slight change of beta was all it needed

lewisrichardson 03/Aug/14 Lead RP

so so psyched after so many falls on the last move it has finally gone!!!!!

with dad
adam cooper*super* 09/Jul/14 Lead RP

Sweet

BenNorman 05/Jul/14 Lead dnf

From floor to sika crimp and from slot to top, didn't have a go next day as far too sunny, will go back in an evening and should go!

Hidden 20/Jun/14 Lead RP
bunn.aroundthebloc 16/Jun/14 Lead RP

Yay..

with Elaine Budden
jfreeman 01/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Rhoslyn Frugtniet
Pajamas Tom 30/May/14 Lead RP

Did not expect to get this! First time sport climbing in 6 months :)

KDSclimber 27/May/14 Lead dnf

got above 2nd clip.

3 Names 27/Sep/13 Lead dog
with dprctr
3 Names 23/Sep/13 Lead dog
with dprctr, Ed Bulman
emily_allen 18/Aug/13 Lead dog
3 Names 17/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
3 Names 16/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
BenNorman 04/Aug/13 Lead dnf

3 x 2 overlapping halves, fell at foot move to pocket, on for next time!

3 Names 03/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
3 Names 02/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
BenNorman 16/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Bit too hot but great moves, everything i was promised. Some good links and will go for sure!

Mike Goldthorp 16/Jul/13 Lead RP

Yahoo! After a sweaty burn last night got up early this morning to find prime conditions and with the dialled beta I had it felt so smooth on the redpoint, so chuffed! First limestone 8a with a rope

with Cailean Harker, Ben Norman, drewish, steveE9
Cailean Harker 15/Jul/13 Lead RP

Tried about 3 years ago but got stuck into other projects.Climbed 2ng go this year. Sweet stuff.

quiffhanger 06/Jul/13 Lead RP

First go of the day - felt a lot easier fresh with good conditions and all the beta.

quiffhanger 08/Jun/13 Lead dog

So pleased to finally get on this. It's everything I expected. Tried a good few times & got some long links but didn't have the beans for the full send. Next time. Got a reason to train now!

with JHM
Hidden 30/May/13 Lead RP
JHM 11/May/13 Lead RP

3 sessions. First UK 8a. Quality and all about the beta.

Ramon Marin 04/May/13 Lead RP

Great route. Got it done 4th redpoint attempt, I was expecting to take longer, but had the beta nailed and just went for it. Definatelt finger lock on the V-shape slot rather than slapping the slopers at the top, made it a lot easier for me

with andre hedger
Ellis Butler-Barker 23/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Wasn't having a great session on the project so trained on this for a bit. I used different beta to when I originally did the route which felt much easier!

with JackMac
Dan 85 21/Apr/13 Lead dog

Another project, first session, got all moves just about...

Ellis Butler-Barker 02/Mar/13 Lead RP

First RP since last trying it about 6 months ago. Psyched to tick my first F8a! Happy to get this with my previous hardest route being F7b.

Cassidy 06/Aug/12 Lead RP

2nd go. Battle. Pretty sure I could have flashed this in better circumstances. Will Atkinson's stag 2012

tom106 22/Jul/12 Lead RP

so psyched - amazing climbing! 4th proper go, punched the top jug on my second....

with tom, mark, tom.
jacobjacob 19/Jun/12 Lead RP

Injured my knee twisting in the heel toe cam near the top, so I couldn't use this beta. Much harder than it kneeded to be...

Justin T 26/May/12 Lead RP
TCCB 19/Mar/12 Lead RP

Done 2nd repoint after about 5? bolt to bolts, finally got 8a before my 15th birthday! :D

paulgvooght 14/Feb/12 Lead dnf

Went to Anstey's Cove for the first time today, which is ridiculous considering i live 15 mins away from Torquay! On arrival decided to check out 'The Cidar Soak' after it being a long term project of a friends. About 2/3 up the route was a nice soaking wet seepage hole that made the right hand move above 3rd clip slightly more tricky, obviously trying to stick the move still! Wet meant we couldnt work the rest of the route but the section we did do was incredible! A great climb for my first 8a!

Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 01/Sep/11 Lead RP
_m.cox_ 10/Jul/11 Lead RP
with westyb3
La benya 22/May/11 Lead dog

got a few good links, but doing it in a one'er is beyond me atm

bustermartin 01/May/11 Lead RP

took about 2 hours

with will smith
John Henry Wynn 23/Apr/11 Lead

Amazing movements and more technical than it looks

PeterDawson 18/Apr/11 Lead RP

Finallly got the big 8a tick

Tom Heslam ?/Apr/11 Lead RP

3rd go.

Luke Dawson 19/Sep/10 Lead RP
hamer89 05/Sep/10 Lead RP
alaan 05/Sep/10 Lead dog

First 'look'. Worked out a sequence - top moves are heartbreakers!

with Sabby
pezzerrr 07/Jun/10 Lead RP
Tom_Ball 18/Apr/10 Lead RP

The time i didn't get it can be seen here http://tomball83.wordpress.com/video/

with lisa anderson
Luke d ??/2010 -

soooooooo want to try this

TheGuns 05/Jun/09 Lead dnf

Egyption move got me

with Henry
ashwah 02/May/09 Lead RP
richgac ?/Feb/09 Lead RP

A couple of days on it over the winter, 5th redpoint attempt. Stoked! Superb moves through the middle section. Charlie belaying.

with Charlie
bigie bob 19/Jul/08 Lead RP
lx 02/Oct/07 Lead

2nd redpoint.... just!

with alison
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 Lead RP
westyb3 16/Oct/04 Lead RP
with _m.cox_
JulesV 13/Jul/04 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Mar/02 Lead RP
Hidden 29/May/00 Lead dog
Mike Owen 12/Aug/92 Lead RP
with Elaine Owen
101 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set