15m.

Rockfax Description
A very impressive sport route. Start at the sloping shelf that cuts in from the right.
Stand on the shelf and move up to a thin break. Move right and use a finger-crack and sloping holds to reach a good finger pocket. Use the pocket to gain a jug that allows a shake-out before the final bouldery upper wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A very impressive sport route. Start at the sloping shelf that cuts in from the right.
14m. Stand on the shelf and move up to a thin break. Move right and use a finger-crack and sloping holds to reach a good finger pocket. Use the pocket to gain a jug that allows a shake-out before the final bouldery upper wall.

FA. Nick White 1988

Ticklists

THE classic old skool 8a's, The road to 8a, West Country Climbs, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Classic Anstey's, South West 8's, UK 8a and up

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UserDateNotes
midgets of the world unite 1 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The perfect power-endurance route. An essential tick. Has an undeserved reputation for being powerful, but is really just totally brilliant. The midway pocket can often be dried out with a beer towel, and this route can be climbable all year round.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The perfect power-endurance route. An essential tick. Has an undeserved reputation for being powerful, but is really just totally brilliant. The midway pocket can often be dried out with a beer towel, and this route can be climbable all year round.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
paul ireland 13 May Lead RP Almost dropped it clipping the chain. Would like to repeat it a little smoother. My 2nd 8a :)
Almost dropped it clipping the chain. Would like to repeat it a little smoother. My 2nd 8a :)
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 4 May Lead RP Second go today. Probably one of the best lines I’ve climbed. Awesome!
Second go today. Probably one of the best lines I’ve climbed. Awesome!
JCAshman 4 May Lead RP 2nd go and first U.K. 8a, pretty pleased. Very bouldery like v4-v6-rest-v4
2nd go and first U.K. 8a, pretty pleased. Very bouldery like v4-v6-rest-v4
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 29 Mar Lead dog
with Tom Dale, Sam Parsons
with Tom Dale, Sam Parsons
samparsons 29 Mar Lead dog One to come back for!
One to come back for!
robf321 10 Mar TR dnf Will require a lot of work but wicked moves!
Will require a lot of work but wicked moves!
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 15 Feb Lead dog I dropped at the finger slot at the top :( Messed up my a2 middle also :(
with drewish
I dropped at the finger slot at the top :( Messed up my a2 middle also :(
with drewish
Luke Dawson 29 Sep, 2018 Lead rpt
nickmoulden 5 Aug, 2018 Lead RP Was too hot for me. Took 3 days to get it, very polished and a bit disappointed with the state of the climbs here...
with zoe bidula
Was too hot for me. Took 3 days to get it, very polished and a bit disappointed with the state of the climbs here...
with zoe bidula
Owen Diba 8 Jul, 2018 Lead dog So bloody hot. Fell repeatedly at the last move to the jug :'(
So bloody hot. Fell repeatedly at the last move to the jug :'(
Owen Diba 25 Jun, 2018 Lead dog Fell just past the jugs
with Brian Taylor, Joe Crolla, Laurence Everitt
Fell just past the jugs
with Brian Taylor, Joe Crolla, Laurence Everitt
BenNorman 25 Jun, 2018 Lead RP Nice to finish this off, went extremely smoothly on the send. Should have done it the trip before but ended up putting in some good links to smooth the whole process. Great route. V4,v5,bad rest, v4
Nice to finish this off, went extremely smoothly on the send. Should have done it the trip before but ended up putting in some good links to smooth the whole process. Great route. V4,v5,bad rest, v4
Finley1234 18 Jun, 2018 Lead RP Pretty hard moves.
Pretty hard moves.
Dandan 9 Jun, 2018 Lead dog 3 goes, all moves done with he help of some written beta and some local knowledge. Wasn't convinced at first but once the sequences were unlocked I could see the attraction of the line. Must find an excuse to come back and finish this off.
3 goes, all moves done with he help of some written beta and some local knowledge. Wasn't convinced at first but once the sequences were unlocked I could see the attraction of the line. Must find an excuse to come back and finish this off.
GwynethUttley 4 Jun, 2018 Lead RP
joshdownham23 28 May, 2018 Lead dnf HARD! Need to let my injured finger heal a bit and then I’ll be back!
HARD! Need to let my injured finger heal a bit and then I’ll be back!
felixwilkins 10 May, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 14 Oct, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 7 Oct, 2017 Lead dog
twm 15 Aug, 2017 Lead RP
with Dale Turrell, Finn
with Dale Turrell, Finn
BeastintheWest 24 Jun, 2017 Lead RP
with Paul Roberts
with Paul Roberts
JackMac 16 Jun, 2017 Lead dnf Hmm, definitely going to need better beta...
Hmm, definitely going to need better beta...
jacobjohncharles 31 May, 2017 Lead RP
DrGav 28 May, 2017 TR dnf First section plausible with a pop but not close on the middle section pockets.
with Luke
First section plausible with a pop but not close on the middle section pockets.
with Luke
Hidden 7 May, 2017 Lead dog
Rory Bascombe 22 Apr, 2017 Lead RP Flippin took me ages but finally got it after like 2 years or something....
with Tim, LeggingsQueen
Flippin took me ages but finally got it after like 2 years or something....
with Tim, LeggingsQueen
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 14 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Similar in style to Raindogs, insofar as it doesn't have any really hard moves - just a lot of pretty hard ones. It certainly inspired and is definitely one to come back for.
Similar in style to Raindogs, insofar as it doesn't have any really hard moves - just a lot of pretty hard ones. It certainly inspired and is definitely one to come back for.
drcorbasisgod ?Apr, 2017 Lead dog
Keendan 26 Mar, 2017 Lead dog 2 day's work. Had to learn beta from a tall man who was there trying it.
2 day's work. Had to learn beta from a tall man who was there trying it.
tobydunford 19 Mar, 2017 Lead dog All moves done now, some great moves. Favourite is moves through the first little overlap into the groove!
with Oli
All moves done now, some great moves. Favourite is moves through the first little overlap into the groove!
with Oli
tobydunford 12 Mar, 2017 Lead dog The journey begins. This might have a few entries! Worked a lot of the moves well, crucial pocket absolutely soaking and all the top wet so only worked bottom half. Looks like a belting project for me, steep and crimmpy!
with Oli
The journey begins. This might have a few entries! Worked a lot of the moves well, crucial pocket absolutely soaking and all the top wet so only worked bottom half. Looks like a belting project for me, steep and crimmpy!
with Oli
ricci.andrea86 ?Mar, 2017 Lead dog super nice route! I'll come back when stronger!
super nice route! I'll come back when stronger!
Russell Blackaller 19 Jan, 2017 Lead RP
Hugobristol 9 Dec, 2016 Lead dog Reccy mission. would be better to be a bit fresher to see if it is project-able in the near future!
with Ian
Reccy mission. would be better to be a bit fresher to see if it is project-able in the near future!
with Ian
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 7 Nov, 2016 Lead dog Went for the flash, pumped crazy. What a great line.
Went for the flash, pumped crazy. What a great line.
Solomon Kemball Dorey 6 Nov, 2016 Lead RP
Tom Corras 12 Oct, 2016 Lead RP
blaza1 29 Sep, 2016 Lead RP Yay!
with mark tomlinson
Yay!
with mark tomlinson
AJM 25 Sep, 2016 Lead dog Key links - sika to chains, second to fourth, ground to post-sika unwind. It's coming together, just slowly.
with Dizz
Key links - sika to chains, second to fourth, ground to post-sika unwind. It's coming together, just slowly.
with Dizz
blaza1 22 Sep, 2016 Lead dog Fell off the top.
with mark tomlinson
Fell off the top.
with mark tomlinson
blaza1 16 Sep, 2016 Lead dog
Matt.c.Warner 31 Aug, 2016 Lead RP Unexpectedly did this on my second go today after years of coming down to try it.
with fred
Unexpectedly did this on my second go today after years of coming down to try it.
with fred
BenNorman 14 Aug, 2016 Lead dnf One quick burn before sunset, fell off going into fingerlock, so much fun
One quick burn before sunset, fell off going into fingerlock, so much fun
evanstone 30 Jul, 2016 Lead RP Project finnaly sent
Project finnaly sent
Kris suriyo 18 Jun, 2016 Lead RP Great route https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8mhu7Zl3y8
Great route https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8mhu7Zl3y8
misterb ?Jun, 2016 Lead dog ha ha, HARD
with justin
ha ha, HARD
with justin
blaza1 29 May, 2016 Lead dog Fell at the second crux
Fell at the second crux
blaza1 23 May, 2016 Lead dog
with liam jones, i_a_coops, Freya
with liam jones, i_a_coops, Freya
Gus 4 May, 2016 Lead dog Awesome, basic route!
Awesome, basic route!
AJM 17 Apr, 2016 Lead dog Progress. Into crux from the ground and decent links of the rest.
with hms
Progress. Into crux from the ground and decent links of the rest.
with hms
brices 17 Apr, 2016 Lead dog
Glyn 9 Apr, 2016 Lead RP 4th rpt of the day, working out a different sequence for the top made all the difference
4th rpt of the day, working out a different sequence for the top made all the difference
Hidden 22 Mar, 2016 Lead RP
JM 13 Mar, 2016 Lead RP
with Anna Reiners
with Anna Reiners
AJM 12 Mar, 2016 Lead dog
with hms
with hms
Hidden 12 Mar, 2016 Lead dog
dancole ?Jan, 2016 Lead dnf
will smith11 30 Aug, 2015 Lead RP Tried this a couple times years ago. 2nd go today.
Tried this a couple times years ago. 2nd go today.
Hidden 20 Jun, 2015 Lead dog
Davros the Psyched 8 Jun, 2015 Lead rpt
jonleighton 6 Jun, 2015 Lead RP My first 8a, finally done after working it over 6 separate weekends during the course of about a year :)
My first 8a, finally done after working it over 6 separate weekends during the course of about a year :)
Jonny_86 26 Apr, 2015 Lead RP
with Ro Jones, derico
with Ro Jones, derico
grey wolf 14 Apr, 2015 Lead β Glad to make this happen!
Glad to make this happen!
rhoslynfrugtniet 22 Mar, 2015 Lead RP
with dan dyson
with dan dyson
brices 21 Mar, 2015 Lead dog In two halfs,
In two halfs,
James Mabon ??, 2015 -
Hidden 1 Nov, 2014 Lead RP
i_a_coops 4 Oct, 2014 -
with quiffhanger, Jenny
with quiffhanger, Jenny
Tom Briggs 29 Aug, 2014 Lead RP
with Dave Ferguson
with Dave Ferguson
Jack_F 8 Aug, 2014 Lead RP Good conditions and a slight change of beta was all it needed
Good conditions and a slight change of beta was all it needed
lewisrichardson 3 Aug, 2014 Lead RP so so psyched after so many falls on the last move it has finally gone!!!!!
with dad
so so psyched after so many falls on the last move it has finally gone!!!!!
with dad
adam cooper*super* 9 Jul, 2014 Lead RP Sweet
Sweet
BenNorman 5 Jul, 2014 Lead dnf From floor to sika crimp and from slot to top, didn't have a go next day as far too sunny, will go back in an evening and should go!
From floor to sika crimp and from slot to top, didn't have a go next day as far too sunny, will go back in an evening and should go!
Hidden 20 Jun, 2014 Lead RP
bunn.aroundthebloc 16 Jun, 2014 Lead RP Yay..
with Elaine Budden
Yay..
with Elaine Budden
jfreeman 1 Jun, 2014 Lead RP
with Rhoslyn Frugtniet
with Rhoslyn Frugtniet
Pajamas Tom 30 May, 2014 Lead RP Did not expect to get this! First time sport climbing in 6 months :)
Did not expect to get this! First time sport climbing in 6 months :)
KDSclimber 27 May, 2014 Lead dnf got above 2nd clip.
got above 2nd clip.
3 Names 27 Sep, 2013 Lead dog
with dprctr
with dprctr
3 Names 23 Sep, 2013 Lead dog
with dprctr, Ed Bulman
with dprctr, Ed Bulman
emily_allen 18 Aug, 2013 Lead dog
3 Names 17 Aug, 2013 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
with Ed Bulman
3 Names 16 Aug, 2013 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
with Ed Bulman
BenNorman 4 Aug, 2013 Lead dnf 3 x 2 overlapping halves, fell at foot move to pocket, on for next time!
3 x 2 overlapping halves, fell at foot move to pocket, on for next time!
3 Names 3 Aug, 2013 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
with Ed Bulman
3 Names 2 Aug, 2013 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
with Ed Bulman
BenNorman 16 Jul, 2013 Lead dnf Bit too hot but great moves, everything i was promised. Some good links and will go for sure!
Bit too hot but great moves, everything i was promised. Some good links and will go for sure!
Mike Goldthorp 16 Jul, 2013 Lead RP Yahoo! After a sweaty burn last night got up early this morning to find prime conditions and with the dialled beta I had it felt so smooth on the redpoint, so chuffed! First limestone 8a with a rope
with Cailean Harker, Ben Norman, drewish, steveE9
Yahoo! After a sweaty burn last night got up early this morning to find prime conditions and with the dialled beta I had it felt so smooth on the redpoint, so chuffed! First limestone 8a with a rope
with Cailean Harker, Ben Norman, drewish, steveE9
Cailean Harker 15 Jul, 2013 Lead RP Tried about 3 years ago but got stuck into other projects.Climbed 2ng go this year. Sweet stuff.
Tried about 3 years ago but got stuck into other projects.Climbed 2ng go this year. Sweet stuff.
quiffhanger 6 Jul, 2013 Lead RP First go of the day - felt a lot easier fresh with good conditions and all the beta.
First go of the day - felt a lot easier fresh with good conditions and all the beta.
quiffhanger 8 Jun, 2013 Lead dog So pleased to finally get on this. It's everything I expected. Tried a good few times & got some long links but didn't have the beans for the full send. Next time. Got a reason to train now!
with JHM
So pleased to finally get on this. It's everything I expected. Tried a good few times & got some long links but didn't have the beans for the full send. Next time. Got a reason to train now!
with JHM
Hidden 30 May, 2013 Lead RP
JHM 11 May, 2013 Lead RP 3 sessions. First UK 8a. Quality and all about the beta.
3 sessions. First UK 8a. Quality and all about the beta.
Ramon Marin 4 May, 2013 Lead RP Great route. Got it done 4th redpoint attempt, I was expecting to take longer, but had the beta nailed and just went for it. Definatelt finger lock on the V-shape slot rather than slapping the slopers at the top, made it a lot easier for me
with andre hedger
Great route. Got it done 4th redpoint attempt, I was expecting to take longer, but had the beta nailed and just went for it. Definatelt finger lock on the V-shape slot rather than slapping the slopers at the top, made it a lot easier for me
with andre hedger
Hidden 23 Apr, 2013 Lead rpt
Dan 85 21 Apr, 2013 Lead dog Another project, first session, got all moves just about...
Another project, first session, got all moves just about...
Hidden 2 Mar, 2013 Lead RP
Cassidy 6 Aug, 2012 Lead RP 2nd go. Battle. Pretty sure I could have flashed this in better circumstances. Will Atkinson's stag 2012
2nd go. Battle. Pretty sure I could have flashed this in better circumstances. Will Atkinson's stag 2012
tom106 22 Jul, 2012 Lead RP so psyched - amazing climbing! 4th proper go, punched the top jug on my second....
with tom, mark, tom.
so psyched - amazing climbing! 4th proper go, punched the top jug on my second....
with tom, mark, tom.
jacobjacob 19 Jun, 2012 Lead RP Injured my knee twisting in the heel toe cam near the top, so I couldn't use this beta. Much harder than it kneeded to be...
Injured my knee twisting in the heel toe cam near the top, so I couldn't use this beta. Much harder than it kneeded to be...
Justin T 26 May, 2012 Lead RP
TCCB 19 Mar, 2012 Lead RP Done 2nd repoint after about 5? bolt to bolts, finally got 8a before my 15th birthday! :D
Done 2nd repoint after about 5? bolt to bolts, finally got 8a before my 15th birthday! :D
paulgvooght 14 Feb, 2012 Lead dnf Went to Anstey's Cove for the first time today, which is ridiculous considering i live 15 mins away from Torquay! On arrival decided to check out 'The Cidar Soak' after it being a long term project of a friends. About 2/3 up the route was a nice soaking wet seepage hole that made the right hand move above 3rd clip slightly more tricky, obviously trying to stick the move still! Wet meant we couldnt work the rest of the route but the section we did do was incredible! A great climb for my first 8a!
Went to Anstey's Cove for the first time today, which is ridiculous considering i live 15 mins away from Torquay! On arrival decided to check out 'The Cidar Soak' after it being a long term project of a friends. About 2/3 up the route was a nice soaking wet seepage hole that made the right hand move above 3rd clip slightly more tricky, obviously trying to stick the move still! Wet meant we couldnt work the rest of the route but the section we did do was incredible! A great climb for my first 8a!
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 1 Sep, 2011 Lead RP
_m.cox_ 10 Jul, 2011 Lead RP
with westyb3
with westyb3
La benya 22 May, 2011 Lead dog got a few good links, but doing it in a one'er is beyond me atm
got a few good links, but doing it in a one'er is beyond me atm
bustermartin 1 May, 2011 Lead RP took about 2 hours
with will smith
took about 2 hours
with will smith
John Henry Wynn 23 Apr, 2011 Lead Amazing movements and more technical than it looks
Amazing movements and more technical than it looks
PeterDawson 18 Apr, 2011 Lead RP Finallly got the big 8a tick
Finallly got the big 8a tick
Tom Heslam ?Apr, 2011 Lead RP 3rd go.
3rd go.
Luke Dawson 19 Sep, 2010 Lead RP
hamer89 5 Sep, 2010 Lead RP
alaan 5 Sep, 2010 Lead dog First 'look'. Worked out a sequence - top moves are heartbreakers!
with Sabby
First 'look'. Worked out a sequence - top moves are heartbreakers!
with Sabby
pezzerrr 7 Jun, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 18 Apr, 2010 Lead RP
Luke d ??, 2010 - soooooooo want to try this
soooooooo want to try this
TheGuns 5 Jun, 2009 Lead dnf Egyption move got me
with Henry
Egyption move got me
with Henry
ashwah 2 May, 2009 Lead RP
richgac ?Feb, 2009 Lead RP Spent a couple of days on it over the winter, sent on 5th redpoint attempt. Stoked! Superb moves through the middle section. Charlie belaying.
with Charlie
Spent a couple of days on it over the winter, sent on 5th redpoint attempt. Stoked! Superb moves through the middle section. Charlie belaying.
with Charlie
bigie bob 19 Jul, 2008 Lead RP
lx 2 Oct, 2007 Lead 2nd redpoint.... just!
with alison
2nd redpoint.... just!
with alison
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2007 Lead
Hidden ??, 2005 Lead RP
westyb3 16 Oct, 2004 Lead RP
with _m.cox_
with _m.cox_
JulesV 13 Jul, 2004 Lead RP
Hidden ?Aug, 2002 Lead RP
Hidden 1 Mar, 2002 Lead RP
Hidden 29 May, 2000 Lead dog
Mike Owen 12 Aug, 1992 Lead RP
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
106 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 46
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set