Rockfax Description
Brilliant and brutal. The overhanging groove and crack on the right-hand side of the wall is a classic of its genre. Start beneath the crack-line.
Boulder up to the slim overlap and make difficult and wild moves into, up and then out of the groove to a wider crack. Jam this to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Nick White 7.11.87 07/Nov/1987

Ticklists: The road to 8a, West Country Climbs, Classic Anstey's.

tom169 14/Sep Lead RP
D.Russell 15/Aug Lead RP

Not that much harder than empire. Just a totally different style. Brilliant route.

with Russ
Wood for Trees 04/Jul Lead dog

a tale of the two 7b+s tonight, it was the best of times it was the most brutal of times...

with Dougie
Hidden 24/Jun Lead RP
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 14/Apr Lead RP

Russ' beta meant I got way higher up the flash than I'd expected. Don't think I'd have made it to the first bolt on the onsight, as it climbs very differently to how you think it will. Amazing route though, even better when you know how ;-)

Tom Corras 12/Apr Lead
drcorbasisgod ?/Apr Lead dog
Hidden 01/Jan Lead
JackMac 27/Dec/16 Lead dnf


with Nikki_C
Hidden 07/Nov/16 TR dog
Alex the Alex 31/Aug/16 Lead dog
with Rog
chris j 31/Aug/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Aug/16 Lead dog
Kris suriyo 17/Jul/16 Lead RP
with Rob
Laurence Everitt 27/May/16 Lead dnf
R2B 28/Apr/16 Lead RP

Brilliant and brutal. Perfect description.

with Nick B
i_a_coops 06/Apr/16 Lead RP
with Mark
Hidden 17/Mar/16 TR dog
will smith11 30/Aug/15 Lead β
ferdia 22/Jul/15 TR
dan gibson 21/Jun/15 Lead RP
with michael porter
Hidden 20/Jun/15 Lead RP
Marti999 10/Jun/15 Lead dog
with Vic
Hidden 06/Jun/15 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Jun/15 Lead dnf
quiffhanger 17/May/15 Lead RP

Pretty pleased I'll never have to do this again...

with Rachel
rhoslynfrugtniet 14/May/15 Lead RP
with gavla
Hidden ?/May/15 Lead RP
climbomaniac 26/Apr/15 Lead dog

pretty hard and painful, but too tired to give it a 2nd go. Next time!

Rory Bascombe 26/Mar/15 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Mar/15 Lead RP
chris j 11/Mar/15 Lead rpt

2nd go today, not bad after a long lay off - the garage board works!

ukb & bmc shark 08/Feb/15 Lead dog

Retro redpoint attempt failed going past third bolt

Milkman ??/2015 -

I have put three quick draws on this route to make my redpoint attemps easier. Can people please leave them, of course use them if you wish. I will remove once I have done it.

BillyRidal 29/Aug/14 Lead O/S
alice fuller 24/Aug/14 TR dog

multidog on a tight rope.got most of the moves:)

with woj
chris j 21/Jun/14 Lead RP
jfreeman 31/May/14 Lead RP
with Ben Lansbury
Dan Savory 28/May/14 Lead RP

3rd RP. Brutal seems to be the word. Not sure on grade as I'm mostly a boulderer and I found this pretty powerful/bouldery. 7b+/7c. Can't decide. Very very good though.

with Paul Edwards
Hidden 25/Apr/14 Lead RP
Luuuuuke 24/Apr/14 Lead RP
with conner, Si
peaches69 23/Apr/14 Lead RP

1 top rope 2nd Redpoint

with luke, connor
Sarah Black 12/Apr/14 Lead dog
Cailean Harker 09/Mar/14 Lead β

I have been avoiding this route for some reason. Got on it today and loved it . Bloody brilliant! Nice to flash, a little consolation prize

Ellis Butler-Barker 12/Dec/13 Lead RP
with Jamie
jonleighton 16/Nov/13 Lead dnf
dmoir 14/Sep/13 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead RP
Ramon Marin 09/Jun/13 Lead RP

A very good route, but never 7b+, a solid 7c in my book. I managed to do it without any jamming, but still quite painful and a proper battle for such a short route. But really good climbing from the word go. A must do route after you ticked all the other classics

with jerome mowat
alek 08/Jun/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead dog
pezzerrr 14/Mar/13 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Mar/13 Lead dog
dannyboy83 01/Sep/12 Lead RP

Good beta from Tom, underated route

with Tommy T
tom106 15/Jul/12 Lead RP
with tom, mikey, si.
tom106 15/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with tom, mikey, si.
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead RP
Justin T 26/May/12 Lead RP
misterb 22/Apr/12 Lead dog

second session. all moves and some small links done.

with justin
Luke Dawson 31/Mar/12 Lead RP

how did i not flash this it cannot be 7b+ surely

TCCB 24/Mar/12 Lead RP

Good route, put the draws up then did it!

Toby Dunn 22/Jan/12 Lead RP

steep, brutal and superb

Hidden ??/2012 -
tedj234 30/Jul/11 Lead RP

Very, very good. No hard moves but relentless from the start.

with Kate
thomb 07/Jun/11 Lead dog

totally draining.

with Darren
La benya 22/May/11 Lead dog
marcpontin ?/May/11 TR dog
with huw
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead RP
Tom Heslam ?/Apr/11 Lead RP
with Rosea
Hidden 28/Mar/11 Lead rpt
PeterDawson ??/2011 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Oct/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 21/Aug/10 TR dnf
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead RP
ecowaller ??/2010 Lead dog


with Wendy Sampson
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead RP
chris j 06/Sep/09 Lead dnf

First try on my new (long-term) project. Dogged my way to last bolt. Utterly utterly brutal...

with Josh
feilx 13/Jun/09 Lead dog
with Angus
Mark Stevenson 06/Jun/09 TR dog
with Ed Southwood
w.pettet-smith ?/May/09 Lead dnf

complete, utter fail. couldn't get past first bolt. looks rubbish anyway ;)

with josh
Hidden 02/Feb/08 Lead dog
bigie bob 06/Aug/07 Lead RP
feeko 06/Aug/07 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
clark alston ?/Aug/02 Lead RP

After a lot of effort.

robyn1 ??/1996 -
robyn1 ??/1996 -
mattnuttall 08/Aug/93 Lead O/S

good onsight for me... although I preferred the E6 6b grade on all the tat and crap...

with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
ukb & bmc shark 04/Jul/93 Lead RP
with Paul Evans
Mike Owen 05/Aug/92 Lead RP
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 15/Sep/91 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Sep/91 Lead β
DanW ??/1989 -
frank ramsay ??/1989 Lead β

Flashed with beta from Nick

20 users have this on their wishlist
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set