18m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb route featuring two contrasting pitches; the first is technical, and the second steep. Start beneath the slim, smooth corner/groove.
1) 6a,13m. Climb the immaculate, smooth groove past two bolts and swing left at its top to a bolt belay on a sloping ledge.
2) 5b, 15m. Move up left from the ledge, then traverse steeply rightwards to find and use a borehole on a sloping shelf to access the base of a short steep corner. Climb this to the vegetated slope above. Bolt belay in an outcrop over to the right. Abseil off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
** RECENTLY RETRO-BOLTED ** Now ~6C with extra bolt at start and before move left to belay. There is also the option of a direct finish at a similar grade, follow the line of bolts above.

FFA. Pat Littlejohn, Dave Garner 31.5.76. Previously aided. 31/May/1976

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Adam Reed 09/Dec/17 Lead RP
with Haydon
Luke_92 09/Dec/17 Lead dnf

Failed to commit at the top for some reason, but I think I could do it in a session.

Hidden 28/Nov/17 Lead O/S
luke glaister 19/Nov/17 Lead O/S

Really pleased to get this clean. Quite tricky in places. Lovely technical moves. Find the feet and move the hands. Class.

Hidden 19/Nov/17 Lead rpt
Martin Bagshaw 19/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with luke glaister, Jim Smith
felixwilkins 04/Nov/17 Lead rpt
Dave Cale 16/Jul/17 Lead O/S

To first lower-off. Awesome technical climbing

with Mike
Hidden 15/Jul/17 2nd dnf
JackMac 25/May/17 Lead rpt
with Marga
Tom Seccombe 15/May/17 Lead O/S
Brian H 16/Apr/17 Lead rpt

Fell off groove of Cocytus on first go. Finally did with excellent direct finish.

felixwilkins 13/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Will Mortimer 21/Jan/17 Lead RP

Went second go. Bloody cold!

with Derwood
Hidden 01/Jan/17 Lead
Tom D 15/Oct/16 -

dark and raining

keepguessing 12/Oct/16 Lead rpt

Felt really easy compared to last time.

Dizz 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S

On bolts with direct finish. Pleased to onsight - technical, hard with steep finish - had to work especially as a warm up - brilliant :)

with Andy m
Rob Moorcroft 10/Jul/16 2nd
with Richard Ive
LDJ 25/Jun/16 Lead
with Lou
Hidden 14/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Euge401 28/May/16 Lead RP

climbed sport. direct finish

Hidden 27/May/16 Lead O/S
blaza1 23/May/16 Lead O/S
with Freya, liam jones, i_a_coops
NancyJones 17/May/16 Lead RP
with Nick B, Justin T
Nathan Chrismas 01/May/16 Lead dog

Had a few goes on this again, considerably stronger than last year. Just need to sort the feet in a couple of places.

keepguessing 06/Mar/16 Lead RP

Must have been well with in my ability considering i got my hands wrong twice one on the crux.

with sam
Ged Desforges ??/2016 -
Luke Dawson 28/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Albachoss 20/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Matt
Matt.c.Warner 20/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Nathan Chrismas 18/Jul/15 Lead dog

Woof doggy dog.

with Lucas F
5210Hill 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
ferdia 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Justin Hill, Jack Macloughlin
JackMac 27/Jun/15 Lead RP
AlexD 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Vicky, Marti
Joe Costello 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S
LauraTejada ?/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd
JM 12/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Rob McEwan
Robheirene 12/Apr/15 Lead dog

Excellent climb but the exposure got the better of me on the overhang so took a rest before continuing - probably 6c/+ when you know where all the jugs are.

innes 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Ruth
tobydunford 08/Feb/15 2nd O/S
with Tomar
Dave Turnbull, BMC 07/Feb/15 Lead
with Kasia Osipowicz, Simon Lee
ukb & bmc shark 07/Feb/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Feb/15 2nd
Hidden 01/Feb/15 Lead O/S
rhoslynfrugtniet 25/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with gavla
Hidden 29/Sep/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 29/Sep/14 2nd dnf
TomJ 07/Sep/14 Lead dog

Climbed as a bolted sport route. Found this fun but quite challenging: I'd vote for a solid 6c+ if the upper bulge is included in the sport climb.

with John
NancyJones 31/Aug/14 Lead dnf
jonleighton 31/Aug/14 Lead β
alice fuller 26/Aug/14 Lead RP

got it clean:).rpt 2017 putting clips in

EdGS 17/Aug/14 Lead RP

First go but had tried ages ago.

with Andy Bowden
Hidden 07/Jul/14 Lead dog
Rory Bascombe 22/Jun/14 Lead RP
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead β
Hidden 14/Jun/14 -
monkeytennis 12/Jun/14 2nd dog

Sport version. Awful style. Bottom half went better. Many rests on the rope, a fair bit of beta. Totally pumped by the end. Super route.

Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead dog
paul reah 05/Jun/14 2nd dog

climbed as the 6c/+ sport route, it broke me and had to dog up it :) but happy to make the chains anyway :)

Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead
andy_pemberton 30/May/14 Lead
with Martin
alice fuller 30/May/14 Lead β

Sort of a beta flash today after dogging it 16/10/12. Did the short version at 6c.24/8/14 lead the whole straight thru the ohang to the top,but rested instead of just going for the final moves ontot the top slab. was wrong handed, but sortable if i had behaved and got my feet on somewhere. great climb to do again and again.

KDSclimber 27/May/14 Lead dog
with Richard
EcoClimber 27/May/14 TR dog
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 16/Apr/14 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Mar/14 Lead β
Paul Robertson 05/Mar/14 Lead dog

A bit wet, but made it to the final bulge before resolve crumpled.

guy xavier percival 05/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Now a clip up feels as hard as the link up into More Steam

with paul
benl66 ??/2014 Lead β
with gavin atkins
gg4419 24/Nov/13 Lead RP
nickstephens 24/Nov/13 Lead RP
Samuel Wainwright 22/Nov/13 Lead
with Rob Steer
Hidden 12/Oct/13 Lead rpt
Julie Carroll 11/Oct/13 Lead RP

Now bolted, gets 6c

with Steven Craig
dbrooks 26/Sep/13 Lead RP

2nd attempt

with Dave
Sophie Nunn 15/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Phil
sarpedon 14/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Last climb of the day and with wet shoes. After 3 falls, stopped at the end before the belay anchors.

nath_casper 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with dan
Russell Blackaller 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Finished higher up the new bolts to new finish. Interesting climbing on bottom half.

with Nick B
John Tanner 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
dmoir 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 12/Aug/13 Lead β

P1 only. Got it second go after a decent rest and calf stretch. Would've been v tenuous at e2 with only 2 bolts.

Daniel 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Andrea Somaschini
peteharrison06 ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Patrick Hill 17/Jul/13 Lead RP
Pathological_Climber 29/Jun/13 Lead β

Now bolted. Think the grade should be Sport. Around F6c/+

quiffhanger 29/Jun/13 Lead β
with Kate
Hidden 10/Jun/13 Lead β
Coops_13 08/Jun/13 Lead RP
alek 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Dale Turrell 29/May/13 Lead O/S

With placing draws. Complete bolted line including direct finish.

Hidden 19/May/13 Lead O/S
jld579 ?/May/13 Lead O/S

bolted 6c ish

Ed morris 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Direct finish this time

with Colin
Bristoldave 09/Mar/13 Lead RP

Wet a bit gopping! Slipped off 1st go

with Caroline
Ed morris 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Finally got to the top of something at anestys :0. first pitch only. So cold

with Colin
Ellis Butler-Barker 18/Feb/13 Lead rpt
with Stanley
Hidden ??/2013 Lead dog
kingholmesy ??/2013 Lead O/S

P1, 6c.

Popkids 18/Nov/12 TR dog

I found this hard.I'm climbing way below par.But would have struggled with this even when my fitness and strength was better.

with Nolan, Kafoozalem
Coops_13 18/Nov/12 Lead dog

Fell off at very top due to pump and being knackered as end of trip

Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 16/Oct/12 Lead O/S

As a 6c+. Luverley

Ellis Butler-Barker 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Amazing first pitch, best slab route I've done so far!

with Stanley
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead RP
Jeronimo 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead RP
rustaldo 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S

one of the only successes of the day. a good pitch, did the bolted continuation to the lower off. would be a gnarly trad lead.

mikeshewring 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S


jimmyrua 04/Jun/12 Lead
pete87abs 04/Jun/12 2nd
DJayB 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/12 Lead dog
Rupey 02/Jun/12 Lead dog
with Wayne and Nick
iantoday 31/May/12 TR dnf

dogged the bottom moves, cried of at the move from bolt 5 to 6

Luke Dawson 31/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/12 Lead dog
EcoClimber 23/May/12 TR dog

stunning line. I need to work harder.. !!

Oddjob 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S

1st pitch only.

with Tom
hepitt ?/Apr/12 -
with Phillipa Arding, Rob Pitt
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt
JackHatton 11/Mar/12 Lead dog
with richy mardell
burto 25/Feb/12 Lead β
with malc, hertha
Rob Pitt 20/Feb/12 Lead O/S

1st bolt clipped

with Nick Arding
Hidden 15/Jan/12 TR
M Bryan 30/Oct/11 TR dog
with Dan Walker, Chris Mock
Toby Dunn 08/Sep/11 Lead
Jonathan Emett 08/Sep/11 TR O/S
with toby
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Pippa 26/Jun/11 2nd
with Jon
Hidden 29/May/11 2nd O/S
pezzerrr 15/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/11 TR RP
Ben1983 02/May/11 Lead β

gear to first bolt already in.

david morse 02/May/11 Lead β

With pre placed kit

with tori, todd
James Mitchelmore 11/Dec/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Nov/10 TR rpt
El3ctroFuzz 06/Nov/10 Lead β

Did Cocytus/ More Steam link up first. Then This. Shame the draws were in. Used cams at the end.

with Mike Cleverdon
Hidden 23/Oct/10 Lead O/S
dan gibson 23/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with michael porter
Hidden 23/Aug/10 TR rpt
eugeneth 15/Aug/10 Lead RP

Definately badly bolted 6c. Has a traddy feel due to the type of climbing. A crafty slings protects the upper moves. Fell off by second boltas i had my feet in bad positions and couldn't swap. Clean next go though

cornishben 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S

1st pitch only. With first bolt pre-clipped..

with Pippa Froggatt
Duncan Campbell 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Awesome bit of climbing! Hard 5c/soft 6a up to bolt (scary) then some 6a moves around 2nd bolt...nice clutter free climbing.. 3 draws and a sling used! E grade:hard E2 or soft E3...probably more like a badly bolted Fr6c. Tremadog was good prep for this!

raku 12/Jul/10 Lead dog
sparkass 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Tough for E2. But very good.

with Ben Fordesman
tom169 11/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Laura
Chris_barr 09/Apr/10 Lead β

E3 6a in old guide

with Mike
jacobjacob 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S
John Mcshea ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Nay
tom169 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Henry Irvine
Hidden 20/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead β
chris j 06/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with Josh
dannyboy83 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith ?/May/09 Lead β
with josh
northnorthnorth 13/Apr/09 Lead RP

The most inspirational line I've ever climbed. I used a clipstick to clip the first bolt...

with Henry
chris j 08/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Ben Bradford
chris j 22/Mar/09 Lead RP

Lead first pitch only. Clean on 2nd attempt.

with Josh
henbot 17/Mar/09 TR dog
with Keith Lackie
Hidden ??/2009 -
TheGuns ??/2009 -
briar4012 21/Nov/08 TR dog
with Adam and Pete
Hidden 21/Nov/08 TR dog
Justin T 11/Oct/08 Lead rpt
richardr ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Justin T 10/Sep/07 Lead dog
with Dave M
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
sebrider ??/2007 Lead O/S

Wire before 1st bolt, did not do last pitch

with Roby Rudolf
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
feilx 19/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/06 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Jun/06 Lead β
Paz 07/Jun/06 Lead β

Strang both pitches, gear in on P1, P2 onsight.

with AB, AS
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Ben
Macca_7 29/May/05 Lead RP

Tricky dissapointed had to start again

with Ann Fisher
Hidden 28/Jul/04 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Okecroak 03/Jun/02 AltLd

E3 6a, 5b (two PRs)

Hidden ??/2002 -
richsmithinbristol 10/Mar/00 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton ??/2000 Lead
with Rik Meek
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
CraigMac1 ??/2000 -
Roget 07/May/96 Lead O/S
with jon
Davros the Psyched ??/1996 Lead O/S
timreynolds 19/Mar/95 TR dnf

Most of P1

Hidden ??/1995 2nd O/S
andy gittins ??/1995 -
goi.ashmore 28/Aug/94 Lead O/S
with Simon Coles
ukb & bmc shark ??/1994 Lead
pmot ??/1994 TR O/S
FATBOYFAT ??/1994 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden ??/1994 Lead O/S
with David Coley
mattnuttall 06/Aug/93 Lead O/S

was given E2 6c... strange grade...

with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Steve Crowe 11/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with KM
steve taylor ??/1993 -
Hidden 25/Apr/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1992 Lead RP
Hidden ??/1991 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Dec/90 Lead O/S
Nick Biven 08/Sep/88 Lead O/S
with Karl Strange
Nigel Coe 03/Apr/88 Lead dnf

Just pitch 1. My first 6a lead.

with Tim Dunsby
ukb & bmc shark 12/Oct/87 Lead O/S
with Nick White
Hidden 26/Apr/87 Lead β
Simon cook ??/1987 -
Hidden ?/Sep/86 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Unsure
Chris Terrey ?/May/80 2nd
with Mike O'Brien, Mike Morrison
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
15 users have this on their wishlist
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 24
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set