35m. Another fine wall climb with great climbing and a sequency crux by the pegs. The fixed gear can be backed up with wires but the route is still a bold undertaking. High in the grade. Incorrectly described in West Country Climbs! The original line climbs up at the first spike NOT the second (Fay)spike.

FA. Steve Monks 17.5.87 17/May/1987

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, West Country Climbs, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Dan Arkle 17 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf Flash attempt, with good beta, but it was too hard for my best effort. Then fell off again. Top peg holds short falls, and you can back it up.
Flash attempt, with good beta, but it was too hard for my best effort. Then fell off again. Top peg holds short falls, and you can back it up.
HeatherF 14 May, 2017 2nd dog
nathanlee 14 May, 2017 Lead β Abbed yesterday to check the pegs and see if they were backupable. Didnt look at much else as I wasnt sure of the line. Found the original start a bit necky, ok cams in soft rock. The crux is really good and unobvious at first. Even though the top peg is pretty shit it feels safe, if goey, with the other gear. Top wall is easy enough but as boothy says its not got much good kit. Mega route in any case, e6/7 (7b/+ish)
Abbed yesterday to check the pegs and see if they were backupable. Didnt look at much else as I wasnt sure of the line. Found the original start a bit necky, ok cams in soft rock. The crux is really good and unobvious at first. Even though the top peg is pretty shit it feels safe, if goey, with the other gear. Top wall is easy enough but as boothy says its not got much good kit. Mega route in any case, e6/7 (7b/+ish)
Jack Geldard ??, 2016 -
Ed Booth 21 Jul, 2015 Lead dnf round two armed with twin ropes. shouted takes pumped out of my mind above the pegs(with fresh tat). worked crux above to the next break. no particularly good gear but ok to rest on, then went exploring up. bad rock and not much kit. in the end bailed all the way along a break to reach the Fay lower off felling traumatised. I reckon this is definitely E7 with the original start(which is a bit more dangerous), if the tat on the pegs is ok, and you get the wires, in then the crux is safe but its not piss and its really pumpy to get all the kit in. An impressive one for people that have onsighted it.
round two armed with twin ropes. shouted takes pumped out of my mind above the pegs(with fresh tat). worked crux above to the next break. no particularly good gear but ok to rest on, then went exploring up. bad rock and not much kit. in the end bailed all the way along a break to reach the Fay lower off felling traumatised. I reckon this is definitely E7 with the original start(which is a bit more dangerous), if the tat on the pegs is ok, and you get the wires, in then the crux is safe but its not piss and its really pumpy to get all the kit in. An impressive one for people that have onsighted it.
Adam Booth 20 Jul, 2015 2nd dog Hard around the crux, and suspect rock in places, make the whole thing a pretty big undertaking.
Hard around the crux, and suspect rock in places, make the whole thing a pretty big undertaking.
Alex Mason 30 Jul, 2014 Lead β Ground-up. Tried on the Monday with the RF start, got pumped and useless by top peg (looks shit). Lowered off. Returned on Wednesday after a tiring days bouldering and assault coursing, but armed with knowledge of this start. Went ok this time, tricky, reachy crux with a lot of hard climbing (sustained 5c/6a) either side.
with Jemma Powell
Ground-up. Tried on the Monday with the RF start, got pumped and useless by top peg (looks shit). Lowered off. Returned on Wednesday after a tiring days bouldering and assault coursing, but armed with knowledge of this start. Went ok this time, tricky, reachy crux with a lot of hard climbing (sustained 5c/6a) either side.
with Jemma Powell
Hidden ??, 2012 -
mwatson ??, 2011 Lead dnf
Dave-Westlake ?Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Onsight Aug 2010, amazing route and worth the wait
Onsight Aug 2010, amazing route and worth the wait
Hidden 15 Jul, 2009 2nd dog
Toby Dunn 29 May, 2009 - Attempted - three long falls onto top peg. High point reaching better holds and a nut slot after hard thin sequqnce on side pulls. Too hot!
with Simon Lee
Attempted - three long falls onto top peg. High point reaching better holds and a nut slot after hard thin sequqnce on side pulls. Too hot!
with Simon Lee
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
with Viv
with Viv
Hidden 13 Jun, 1999 Lead dnf
Chris Wright 24 Aug, 1991 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe 27 May, 1991 -
with keefe
with keefe
keefe 27 May, 1991 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 8 Aug, 1989 Lead RP
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
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