Rockfax Description
A high grade testpiece of the Culm Coast that combines some technical and fingery climbing in its mid-section, with a tiring and not overly protected upper wall. Start at a left-trending crack which leads to the good spike runner on Fay. Move up the crack to a small spike (not the spike on Fay which is further along the crack) and climb a vertical crack to a diagonal quartz break. Move left along the break for 3m to below a blank wall with pegs in it. Hard climbing to and past the pegs gains a quartz break. Move up to another break and follow this left a little way before heading up the final wall to the top.
Coronary By-Pass, E6 6b - A slightly less serious but equally fierce variation climbs to the good spike on Fay and then follows the wall on the right to join the parent route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This is the start described in the definitive guide and West Country Climbs, but apparently not the original start!

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