UKC

Rockfax Description
A high grade testpiece of the Culm Coast that combines some technical and fingery climbing in its mid-section, with a tiring and not overly protected upper wall. Start at a left-trending crack which leads to the good spike runner on Fay. Move up the crack to a small spike (not the spike on Fay which is further along the crack) and climb a vertical crack to a diagonal quartz break. Move left along the break for 3m to below a blank wall with pegs in it. Hard climbing to and past the pegs gains a quartz break. Move up to another break and follow this left a little way before heading up the final wall to the top.
Coronary By-Pass, E6 6b - A slightly less serious but equally fierce variation climbs to the good spike on Fay and then follows the wall on the right to join the parent route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This is the start described in the definitive guide and West Country Climbs, but apparently not the original start!

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Guidebooks for Lower Sharpnose Point

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High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Abracadabra ArĂȘte

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Pentire Point)

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