2 pitches. Climbs a faint groove and continues direct to the finger crack on Gagool. Even with the upgrade this represents the top end of the grade. Steel fingers and a high pain threshold are required for big moves between sharp finger pockets to gain the relative security of the undercut on Gagool's traverse. If you get your finger out, it is protectable by skyhooks but this is easier said than done.
Finish up Gagool.

FA. S.Bell 1979

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
timreynolds 1 Apr TR dog Just one fall
Just one fall
Hidden 1 Apr TR dog
Brian H 20 Mar, 2016 TR O/S Numb fingers, sharp holds
Numb fingers, sharp holds
alice fuller 26 May, 2015 TR RP
FATBOYFAT ??, 2015 Lead O/S
Dawlish 24 Feb, 2014 2nd
Bristoldave 24 Feb, 2014 Lead O/S Reached out L and clipped the 1st peg. Hard E2 this way maybe
with Dawlish
Reached out L and clipped the 1st peg. Hard E2 this way maybe
with Dawlish
andy_pemberton 3 Jul, 2013 Lead Easy moves with not so easy gear! Tied down skyhook and odd sideways nut thing helped! P1 only.
with Sarah Massey
Easy moves with not so easy gear! Tied down skyhook and odd sideways nut thing helped! P1 only.
with Sarah Massey
Dan Dyson ??, 2013 Lead O/S Really confused about this. The javu guide describes what I climbed as e4 6a also called gagool direct - that is up the starting groove through the pockets towards gagool crack. Was def 6a - especially with alien in the first good pocket and easily worth e3. Very good though.
Really confused about this. The javu guide describes what I climbed as e4 6a also called gagool direct - that is up the starting groove through the pockets towards gagool crack. Was def 6a - especially with alien in the first good pocket and easily worth e3. Very good though.
chris j 7 May, 2011 2nd rpt
with Ben Bradford
with Ben Bradford
adam cooper*super* 29 Nov, 2010 Lead rpt done this ages ago on 2nd and forgot about it for a while, bitter conditions which probably helped my feet, pissed all over it...;)
with Jack_F
done this ages ago on 2nd and forgot about it for a while, bitter conditions which probably helped my feet, pissed all over it...;)
with Jack_F
raku 20 Apr, 2010 Lead β
with Dominic Jeff
with Dominic Jeff
raku 20 Apr, 2010 Lead β
with Dominic Jeff
with Dominic Jeff
Duncan Campbell 20 Dec, 2009 Lead RP ground up - fell off when cold/numb foot slipped off smear with waist level with skyhook - which held both me and my belayer! lowered, pulled ropes, warmed feet and shoes and sent, E3 5c i wouldn't argue with as on javu, a nice route
with JeromeT
ground up - fell off when cold/numb foot slipped off smear with waist level with skyhook - which held both me and my belayer! lowered, pulled ropes, warmed feet and shoes and sent, E3 5c i wouldn't argue with as on javu, a nice route
with JeromeT
JeromeT 7 Nov, 2009 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 18 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Sep, 2009 Lead RP
Hidden 13 Sep, 2009 2nd
Jack_F 13 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with Adam copper * super*
with Adam copper * super*
climber sim ??, 2009 -
sharmawho? ??, 2008 TR RP
with shunted
with shunted
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
CraigMac1 ??, 2000 -
Mark Kemball 2 Mar, 1997 Lead
with Mark Soutar
with Mark Soutar
tuftynick ??, 1995 Lead
with ben winston
with ben winston
Derek Ryden 28 Apr, 1990 Lead O/S
with Tom Joynson
with Tom Joynson
Hidden ?May, 1988 Lead
davidalcock ??, 1988 -
with Philip Scorer
with Philip Scorer
Nick Biven 12 Aug, 1986 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Mar, 1986 Lead β
Steve Bell ??, 1979 -
clanger ??, 1973 -
3 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 8
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set