UKC

33m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fingery exercise on excellent rock. Its name was apt as the harbinger of terror when it was graded E1. Start just left of the arete, below a peg at 5m.
1) 5b, 17m. A very slippery start gains the peg and some small wires. Traverse left with difficulty for 5m on small holds to an easing at a thin vertical crack. Climb the crack and move rightwards to a large belay ledge.
2) 5a, 16m. Move up and stand on a block on the left, peg. Step right into an open groove and climb it past some poor rock and a very wobbly but keyed-in small block to finish up easier ground. © Rockfax

FA. I. McMorrin 1965.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4

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User Date Notes
Iain Weymouth 23 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Phew! Polished start with sustained fingery moves, P1 felt like 5c to me! P2 very good and a doddle in comparison.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Phew! Polished start with sustained fingery moves, P1 felt like 5c to me! P2 very good and a doddle in comparison.

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High E3
Mid E3
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 45
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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Votes cast 47
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Direct Start (The Fifth Appendage)

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Lundy)

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