A fingery exercise on excellent rock. Its name was apt as the harbinger of terror when it was graded E1. Start just left of the arete, below a peg at 5m.1) 5b, 17m. A very slippery start gains the peg and some small wires. Traverse left with difficulty for 5m on small holds to an easing at a thin vertical crack. Climb the crack and move rightwards to a large belay ledge.2) 5a, 16m. Move up and stand on a block on the left, peg. Step right into an open groove and climb it past some poor rock and a very wobbly but keyed-in small block to finish up easier ground. © Rockfax
FA. I. McMorrin 1965.
Littlejohn South West Climbs
West Country Climbs
South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)
The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200.
Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4
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Grade: E2 5c ***
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