UKC Logbook - 'Vala'

Rockfax Description
The staggered overlaps on the left wall of the dominating corner of Central Groove. Climb Central Groove for 10m and access the overlaps. Follow these to pull over and onto the cracked wall and the belay ledge a short distance above. Abseil off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
VALA 160' HARD VERY SEVERE 5A- (1963) Good strenuous climbing, but there are resting places. Be warned, the cracks ‘eat’ Friends. Start as for Central Groove (Pg 13).
1) 5a-. Climb Central Groove, until it’s possible to move left, and layback round an overhang. Continue up to the main overhang, a long reach directly over this leads to increasingly better holds, and a ledge. Most abseil off, but you can go
on to:
2) 4a. Walk down left behind a flake until beneath a small overhang, surmount this to gain a ledge. Overgrown.
3) 5a+. Climb the problematic wall, between the two chimneys, finishing up
a slab. Hard.

Ticklists

Kernow , West Country Climbs , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 2020 Vision , Cream first! , 2023 , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist

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User	Date		Notes
Phil79	26 Apr, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Rotten abseil tat replaced with static rope and maillon April 2022. Secured around (suspect) tree and backed up on pebble chocks placed in crack behind.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Rotten abseil tat replaced with static rope and maillon April 2022. Secured around (suspect) tree and backed up on pebble chocks placed in crack behind.
John Cuthbert	27 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Another Dewerstone quality offering. There's some scope to go the wrong way, but once found it's a fun little number for those that like their HVSs' steep. well protected..
Show beta βeta: Another Dewerstone quality offering. There's some scope to go the wrong way, but once found it's a fun little number for those that like their HVSs' steep. well protected..
petegruf	18 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Its up the middle of the overhangs or the 5c on either side	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Its up the middle of the overhangs or the 5c on either side
Jack Barrett-Kelly	28 Jul, 2019	Show βeta βeta: several loose blocks halfway up. Care is required around these.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: several loose blocks halfway up. Care is required around these.
Fiend	12 Aug, 2007	Show βeta βeta: Short but good line with a good honest style of climbing.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Short but good line with a good honest style of climbing.
Albie	4 Jul, 2006	Show βeta βeta: The overhanging section looks really intimidating but you can save yourself a lot of effort with some nifty footwork to keep you in balance. Save your strength for that final pull out from the overhang and you'll be skipping all the way to the top.
Show beta βeta: The overhanging section looks really intimidating but you can save yourself a lot of effort with some nifty footwork to keep you in balance. Save your strength for that final pull out from the overhang and you'll be skipping all the way to the top.