Climbs 148
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces S

Character building -- Reverse Cleft at Dewerstone © Dedbloke

Crag features

The Dewerstone is a fantastic low to middle grade venue which remains climbable year round. Set in magical woodland the area consists of a number of contrasting crags which vary from multi-pitch classics to single pitch micro routes with all sorts in between. The rock is usually sound and protection when placed well is good. Some of the less travelled routes (particularly on the upper buttresses) have suffered badly from re-vegetation through lack of traffic and would certainly require cleaning before being climbable. This should be done sensitively and discreetly and under no circumstances should any trees be chopped down at all! The area is host to a great deal of flora and fauna and during recent times birds of prey have nested on some sections of the main crag during the spring. These birds should not be disturbed and climbers should be able to make their own judgements about which areas should be avoided at these times.

Concerns have been expressed about erosion and footpaths should be kept to where possible. The most up to date definitive guide is the Tim Dennell pdf guide which can be reached through the Javu Website. All of the routes in the Rockfax guide are worthwhile but many other little gems can be found throughout the area. 

Another area called Crow Buttress exists another ten minutes walk upstream.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Approach notes

From the A38 go via Ivybridge to Cornwood, then take signs to Shaugh Prior. The car park is on the R, before the humpback bridge over the river Plym. >From Plymouth, turn R off the A386 at Roborough (signpost says Bickleigh/Shaugh Prior). A mile past Bickleigh you pass over the humpback bridge: the car park is on the L. From the car park, take the wooden footbridge and follow the path until it steepens where you can branch right to take a smaller path which contours the hillside above the river and leads to the crag (about 800yds).

 

The land belongs to the NT, which is worried about erosion: please take all your litter home.

 

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
A delightful day out at one of Dartmoor's finest venues, namely The Dewerstone in South West Devon, on one of the crag classics called "Central Groove" which is surely one the best climbs of it's grade at Hard Severe in the UK. Set in the magical ancient wooded valley of Shaugh Prior by the babbling River Plym, The Dewerstone is home to numerous gorgeous granite climbs throughout the grades and hopefully this short film will inspire a few folks to pay a visit to sample some of the delights on offer! :-) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6nVM-5_04U
BALD EAGLE - 18/Jul/14
Repeated mann9076's new E1. Nice new route, good to see new stuff appearing from under the moss! Nice route, get on it!
Tom Last - 01/Jun/14
Two new routes climbed this week on In Extremis Buttress above Needle Buttress. Will Hornby did La Crme Noire which takes the obvious wall between Crme Brle and La Bte Noire. Not sure of grade yet but quite hard and with cunning gear. Meilleurs Chiens du Monde takes the arete and wall right of La Bte Noire. These routes are both worth doing and are clean right now as is La Bte Noire. Make the walk up the hill and get on them!
James Mann - 31/May/14
All the routes from Fruitflancase to CC Superdirect have been cleaned so the nut placements are no longer full of mud. Get on them and keep them clean! This includes The Ultimate Eliminate Direct which awaits a second ascent?
Kafoozalem - 26/Feb/13
climbers club direct, attemted this on the 19th of august! in damp conditions... first step onto the main crack P1 is wayyyy too polished to get purchase on in the wet! will be coming back next summer when its dry!!
mackay780 - 28/Sep/11
Central Groove 24th May 2011 There are a few loose-ish blocks (now more like chockstones) in the groove on pitch 1. Pretty large one came out today level with the start of the overhangs on Vala. Certainly would have killed a belayer, helmet or no. There are still a couple more beneath this point.
jayjackson - 24/May/11
24th May 2011 Large crows' nest at the top of the "V" groove on Climbers' Club routes. Sounds like the chicks have just hatched so consider avoiding this section either left via P2 of Gideon or right on P2 of Globe & Laurell (harder). Also, nesting bird of prey (peregrin maybe?) just right of Central Groove P1 belay, directly above the top of Fruitflancase P1.
jayjackson - 24/May/11
Great crag and my local :) Routes I have done and would recommend include - Central Groove HS4b 4b, Climbers Club Ordinary VS, Leviathan VS 4c, Reverse Cleft - Severe, Tower Crack HS 4b and Spiders Web HVS 5a 5a. Also a load of classic VD multi-pitches.
Jon - 16/Nov/06
Recent rock fall on Climbers Club Ordinary. Dangerous looking loose rock 20ft up now. avoid the routes surrounding CC Ordinary. (as of c20.8.06)
StevO - 24/Aug/06
From over the footbridge, take an immediate right and follow the good path alongside the the river. The cobbled path that goes steeply uphill leads you away from the crag (although you can use it to reach the top, then scramble down).
Nick Smith - UKC - 22/Jul/06
Had great time bank holiday Sunday.Probably the most beautifull place i have had the pleasure to visit yet.Leviathan gives great value,but i think some form of permanant rap station should be considered,because the oak tree at the top is looking a bit sorry for itself.It wont be long before it suffers the same fate as the one at the top of Mucky Gully.
gjw5670 - 30/Aug/05
Upper buttresses are overgrown, and the footpath is not obvious, looks like they need more traffic Easter 2005
Big Steve - 28/Mar/05
Excellent climbing for low to middle grade climbers on Dartmoor Granite. Head for the classic corner of Central Groove (HS), or the other classic Climbers, Club (VS). If the crag is too crowded head up to the Upper Buttresses to get away. Excellent venue for a summer evening's climbing, followed by a swim in the river.
John Hearne - 13/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Tooth Area 
2Al denteVS 4c 10
3Bruised HeelsE1 5b 5
4Bruised FeelingsVS 4c 2
5Slapping Flapping Faffing FatherE1 5a 1
6Oblong/TrapeziumE2 5b 1
7Dr GreenthumbsHVS 5a  
 The Tower 
9WindowpaneVS 4c *87
10Moss WallE6 6b/c 2
11Tower CrackHS 4b **172
12TCRHFE4 6b 5
13Cower TrackE6 6a **4
14WindowsillHS 4a ***45
15Window SlitVD **170
16Slap HappyE5 6a **2
17What a flakin small holdE4 6a **1
 Penny Bay 
19The Admiral's HoleS 12
20Wobbling WallE1 5b *25
21Twittering CrackHVS 5a 53
22Saint's NicheS 4b 157
23Wobbling wall direct *
-
E2 5c *1
 Agag's Slab Area 
25Agag's DirectS 4a 366
26Agag's SlabD 670
27Agags Forgotten BrotherHD 24
28The Garden PathD 26
29Noddy
-
VS 4b 36
 Mambo Slab Area 
31GoblinVS 4c 210
32Mambo SlabVD 458
33ElfVS 4b 49
34Caesar's NoseS 4a 550
35Cadbury's FlakeS 4a 47
36Halcyon DazeE1 5b  
 Upper Pinacle Buttress Left Hand 
38Dewerstone FlagshipE4 6a *2
39Hagar the HorribleE4 6a *13
40GnasherHVS 5b 10
41AliyahE5 6a *1
42Holly Tree Wall DirectHVS 5a 129
43Rufty TuftyE1 5b 28
44Holly Tree WallD 392
45Pinnacle ChimneyVD 3c 288
46TroyHVS 4c 23
 Pinnacle Buttress 
48Pinnacle Buttress DirectHS 4a 239
49Pinnacle ButtressVD **566
50Mucky GullyD **1180
51Reverse CleftS 4a *488
52Colonel's CavortHS 4a 115
 Colonel's Arete Area 
54Colonel's AreteVD **1080
 Main Gully 
56SayonaraHVS 5a  
57If I Should Fall From Grace With GodE3 5c  
58Dark CleftVD 15
59The EchoHVS 5a 2
60KernowS 4b 12
61The TunnelD 40
62Suspension WallS 8
63The High TraverseVD 27
 Vineyard Area 
65Wrath of GrapesE3 5c 1
66VineyardVS 4b 394
67Vineyard VariationS 4b 12
68Inkspots HangoverE1 5b *43
69Pinkspots HeadacheE1 5b 2
 The Devil's Rock 
71Cretin's CavortHVS 5a 89
72LeviathanVS 4c ***1122
73Extendable ArmsE1 5c,5b *21
74ValaHVS 5a **451
75Return from the KurdsE1 5c 5
76Central GrooveHS 4b ***2077
77ScimitarE1 5b *96
78Scimitar DirectE1 5b ***102
79Scimitar VariationsE1 5b ***17
80FruitflancaseE1 5a ***260
81GideonE1 5b ***182
82Energy CrisisE4 6a 2
83Climbers' Club DirectHVS 5a ***563
84Ultimate EliminateE2 5c 2
85Ultimate Eliminate DirectE3 5c **3
86Climbers' Club Super DirectE1 5b 18
87granite guruE5 6b *6
88Halls of IllusionE5 6a  
89Piglet Wall Direct StartE5 6b **1
90Globe and LaurelHVS 5a 13
91Climbers' Club OrdinaryVS 4b **663
92Bee LineHVS 5a 33
93Route BHVD **706
94KnucklecrackerHS 4a 19
95Cornish ReprieveHVS 5a *11
96Lateral ThinkingE1 5c 1
97The Admiral's TraverseVD 23
98Cornish ReverseVS 4c 1
 Needle Buttress 
100CleopatraVS 4c 10
101PortalS 4b 75
102Needle AreteVD **770
103The CamelHS 4a *132
104The StitchE1 5b 11
105CyclopsHVS 5a *121
106ScorpionHS 4b 36
107Final TouchE1 5c 3
108Final Touch DirectE3 6a  
109ExaltationHVS 5a 3
110BabylonS 4a 7
111WinnetHVS 5a 1
112Shades of GreenHVS 5b 1
113Wire BrushVS 4c  
 In Extremis Buttress 
115In ExtremisHVS 5a 11
116Short and Snappy
-
E2 5b  
117Left Chimney
-
D 7
118Crème BrouléeE4 5c 14
119La Creme Noir DirectE7 6b *8
120La Crème NoireE5 6b **17
121La Bête NoireE1 5b 42
122Meilleurs Chiens du MondeE1 5b *16
123Sloppy GullyD 14
 Raven Buttress 
 Lower Raven Buttress 
126The BewildernessE1 5b 2
127Hidden GemHVS 5a 2
128YogiHVS 5b *16
129Valhalla WallHVS 5a 49
130Valhalla Wall DirectE1 5b 13
131Fly On The WallHS 4b **548
132Brown LegsE1 5b 4
133ImperialistHVS 5a 50
134Black WidowE1 5b 17
135Silken Thread/ImperialistHVS 5a **108
136Silken ThreadHVS 5a 40
137Smash or GrabE3 6a 1
138TarantulaHVS 5b *26
139ShelobE1 5b 1
140Spider's WebHVS 5a ***316
141Mango CornerVS 4c 30
142BorisVS 4c 7
 Upper Raven Buttress 
144Back to NatureVS 4c 5
145SnoopyE2 5b  
146Raven FaceVD *195
147RandyVS 4c,4c *39
148Safe SexHVS 5a 7
149Yosemite SamVS 4b 8
150YosemiteVS 4c 2
151CyberpunkHVS 5a 4
152ArmadaHS 4a 117
153The Mammoth RoofHVS  
154BolshevikHVS 5b 7
155Search for the Ultimate JacuzziHVS 5a 12
156Corner ChimneyHVS 5a 7
157Grunting in the GutterE1 5b  
158Dragon SongE3 6a **12
159Dragon Song Variation FinishE3 5c 1
160The DanglerE1 5b *6
161ApparitionHVS 5b 3
162NibelungE1 5b 1
163Mossy EyesE1 5a *4
164Moss Wall Variation *E6 6c *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer James Mann