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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 151
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces S

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Character building -- Reverse Cleft at Dewerstone © Dedbloke

Crag features

The Dewerstone is a fantastic low to middle grade venue which remains climbable year round. Set in magical woodland the area consists of a number of contrasting crags which vary from multi-pitch classics to single pitch micro routes with all sorts in between. The rock is usually sound and protection when placed well is good. Some of the less travelled routes (particularly on the upper buttresses) have suffered badly from re-vegetation through lack of traffic and would certainly require cleaning before being climbable. This should be done sensitively and discreetly and under no circumstances should any trees be chopped down at all! The area is host to a great deal of flora and fauna and during recent times birds of prey have nested on some sections of the main crag during the spring. These birds should not be disturbed and climbers should be able to make their own judgements about which areas should be avoided at these times. It is also worth noting that if you are bringing food an air tight container is recomended due to the squirrels. They will chew through your bag.

Concerns have been expressed about erosion and footpaths should be kept to where possible. The most up to date definitive guide is the Tim Dennell pdf guide which can be reached through the Javu Website. All of the routes in the Rockfax guide are worthwhile but many other little gems can be found throughout the area. 

Another area called Crow Buttress exists another ten minutes walk upstream.  

Approach notes

From the A38 go via Ivybridge to Cornwood, then take signs to Shaugh Prior. The car park is on the R, before the humpback bridge over the river Plym. >From Plymouth, turn R off the A386 at Roborough (signpost says Bickleigh/Shaugh Prior). A mile past Bickleigh you pass over the humpback bridge: the car park is on the L. From the car park, take the wooden footbridge and follow the path until it steepens where you can branch right to take a smaller path which contours the hillside above the river and leads to the crag (about 800yds).


The land belongs to the NT, which is worried about erosion: please take all your litter home.


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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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A delightful day out at one of Dartmoor's finest venues, namely The Dewerstone in South West Devon, on one of the crag classics called "Central Groove" which is surely one the best climbs of it's grade at Hard Severe in the UK. Set in the magical ancient wooded valley of Shaugh Prior by the babbling River Plym, The Dewerstone is home to numerous gorgeous granite climbs throughout the grades and hopefully this short film will inspire a few folks to pay a visit to sample some of the delights on offer! :-)
BALD EAGLE - 18/Jul/14
Repeated mann9076's new E1. Nice new route, good to see new stuff appearing from under the moss! Nice route, get on it!
Tom Last - 01/Jun/14
Two new routes climbed this week on In Extremis Buttress above Needle Buttress. Will Hornby did La Crme Noire which takes the obvious wall between Crme Brle and La Bte Noire. Not sure of grade yet but quite hard and with cunning gear. Meilleurs Chiens du Monde takes the arete and wall right of La Bte Noire. These routes are both worth doing and are clean right now as is La Bte Noire. Make the walk up the hill and get on them!
James Mann - 31/May/14
All the routes from Fruitflancase to CC Superdirect have been cleaned so the nut placements are no longer full of mud. Get on them and keep them clean! This includes The Ultimate Eliminate Direct which awaits a second ascent?
Kafoozalem - 26/Feb/13
climbers club direct, attemted this on the 19th of august! in damp conditions... first step onto the main crack P1 is wayyyy too polished to get purchase on in the wet! will be coming back next summer when its dry!!
mackay780 - 28/Sep/11
Central Groove 24th May 2011 There are a few loose-ish blocks (now more like chockstones) in the groove on pitch 1. Pretty large one came out today level with the start of the overhangs on Vala. Certainly would have killed a belayer, helmet or no. There are still a couple more beneath this point.
jayjackson - 24/May/11
24th May 2011 Large crows' nest at the top of the "V" groove on Climbers' Club routes. Sounds like the chicks have just hatched so consider avoiding this section either left via P2 of Gideon or right on P2 of Globe & Laurell (harder). Also, nesting bird of prey (peregrin maybe?) just right of Central Groove P1 belay, directly above the top of Fruitflancase P1.
jayjackson - 24/May/11
Great crag and my local :) Routes I have done and would recommend include - Central Groove HS4b 4b, Climbers Club Ordinary VS, Leviathan VS 4c, Reverse Cleft - Severe, Tower Crack HS 4b and Spiders Web HVS 5a 5a. Also a load of classic VD multi-pitches.
Jon - 16/Nov/06
Recent rock fall on Climbers Club Ordinary. Dangerous looking loose rock 20ft up now. avoid the routes surrounding CC Ordinary. (as of c20.8.06)
StevO - 24/Aug/06
From over the footbridge, take an immediate right and follow the good path alongside the the river. The cobbled path that goes steeply uphill leads you away from the crag (although you can use it to reach the top, then scramble down).
Nick Smith - UKC - 22/Jul/06
Had great time bank holiday Sunday.Probably the most beautifull place i have had the pleasure to visit yet.Leviathan gives great value,but i think some form of permanant rap station should be considered,because the oak tree at the top is looking a bit sorry for itself.It wont be long before it suffers the same fate as the one at the top of Mucky Gully.
gjw5670 - 30/Aug/05
Upper buttresses are overgrown, and the footpath is not obvious, looks like they need more traffic Easter 2005
Big Steve - 28/Mar/05
Excellent climbing for low to middle grade climbers on Dartmoor Granite. Head for the classic corner of Central Groove (HS), or the other classic Climbers, Club (VS). If the crag is too crowded head up to the Upper Buttresses to get away. Excellent venue for a summer evening's climbing, followed by a swim in the river.
John Hearne - 13/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Tooth Area
2 Al dente VS 4c 11
3 Bruised Heels E1 5b 8
4 Bruised Feelings VS 4c 2
5 Slapping Flapping Faffing Father E1 5a 1
6 Oblong/Trapezium E2 5b 1
7 Dr Greenthumbs HVS 5a  
  The Tower
9 Windowpane VS 4c * 93
10 Moss Wall E6 6b/c 2
11 Tower Crack HS 4b ** 165
12 TCRHF E4 6b 5
13 Cower Track E6 6a ** 2
14 Windowsill HS 4a *** 35
15 Window Slit VD ** 188
16 Slap Happy E5 6a ** 2
17 What a flakin small hold E4 6a ** 1
  Penny Bay
19 The Admiral's Hole S 13
20 Wobbling Wall E1 5b * 24
21 Twittering Crack HVS 5a 66
22 Saint's Niche S 4b 170
23 Wobbling wall direct *
E2 5c * 2
  Agag's Slab Area
25 Agag's Direct S 4a 434
26 Agag's Slab D 803
27 Agags Forgotten Brother HD 29
28 The Garden Path D 28
29 Noddy
VS 4b 42
  Mambo Slab Area
31 Goblin VS 4c 241
32 Mambo Slab VD 584
33 Elf VS 4b 54
34 Caesar's Nose S 4a 659
35 Cadbury's Flake S 4a 72
36 Halcyon Daze E1 5b  
37 Caesar's Nose Direct * VS 4b 10
  Upper Pinacle Buttress Left Hand
39 Dewerstone Flagship E4 6a * 2
40 Hagar the Horrible E4 6a * 13
41 Gnasher HVS 5b 12
42 Aliyah E5 6a * 1
43 Holly Tree Wall Direct HVS 5a 154
44 Rufty Tufty E1 5b 28
45 Holly Tree Wall D 467
46 Pinnacle Chimney VD 3c 346
47 Troy HVS 4c 26
  Pinnacle Buttress
49 Pinnacle Buttress Direct HS 4a 281
50 Pinnacle Buttress VD ** 704
51 Mucky Gully D ** 1426
52 Reverse Cleft S 4a * 580
53 Colonel's Cavort HS 4a 131
  Colonel's Arete Area
55 Colonel's Arete VD ** 1317
56 Oak Wrestler Direct * S 4a 1
Climb name Grade
  Main Gully
58 Sayonara HVS 5a  
59 If I Should Fall From Grace With God E3 5c  
60 Dark Cleft VD 14
61 The Echo HVS 5a 3
62 Kernow S 4b 15
63 The Tunnel D 41
64 Suspension Wall S 9
65 The High Traverse VD 30
  Vineyard Area
67 Wrath of Grapes E3 5c 1
68 Vineyard VS 4b 458
69 Vineyard Variation S 4b 14
70 Inkspots Hangover E1 5b * 44
71 Pinkspots Headache E1 5b 2
  The Devil's Rock
73 Cretin's Cavort HVS 5a 101
74 Leviathan VS 4c *** 1369
75 Extendable Arms E1 5c,5b * 23
76 Vala HVS 5a ** 537
77 Return from the Kurds E1 5c 6
78 Central Groove HS 4b *** 2485
79 Scimitar E1 5b * 100
80 Scimitar Direct E1 5b *** 119
81 Scimitar Variations E1 5b *** 37
82 Fruitflancase E1 5a *** 309
83 Gideon E1 5b *** 201
84 Energy Crisis E4 6a 2
85 Climbers' Club Direct HVS 5a *** 659
86 Ultimate Eliminate E2 5c 2
87 Ultimate Eliminate Direct E3 5c ** 3
88 Climbers' Club Super Direct E1 5b 20
89 granite guru E5 6b * 6
90 Halls of Illusion E5 6a  
91 Piglet Wall Direct Start E5 6b ** 2
92 Globe and Laurel HVS 5a 14
93 Climbers' Club Ordinary VS 4b ** 784
94 Bee Line HVS 5a 38
95 Route B HVD ** 902
96 Knucklecracker HS 4a 18
97 Cornish Reprieve HVS 5a * 17
98 Lateral Thinking E1 5c 2
99 The Admiral's Traverse VD 24
100 Cornish Reverse VS 4c 1
101 Unnamed Route - Direct Finish to Leviathan * HS 4b, 4b 2
  Needle Buttress
103 Cleopatra VS 4c 10
104 Portal S 4b 86
105 Needle Arete VD ** 909
106 The Camel HS 4a * 152
107 The Stitch E1 5b 12
108 Cyclops HVS 5a * 134
109 Scorpion HS 4b 38
110 Final Touch E1 5c 3
111 Final Touch Direct E3 6a  
112 Exaltation HVS 5a 3
Climb name Grade
113 Babylon S 4a 7
114 Winnet HVS 5a 1
115 Shades of Green HVS 5b 1
116 Wire Brush VS 4c  
  In Extremis Buttress
118 In Extremis HVS 5a 11
119 Short and Snappy
E2 5b  
120 Left Chimney
D 5
121 Crème Broulée E4 5c 18
122 La Creme Noir Direct E7 6b * 6
123 La Crème Noire E5 6b ** 14
124 La Bête Noire E1 5b 52
125 Meilleurs Chiens du Monde E1 5b * 20
126 Sloppy Gully D 14
  Raven Buttress
  Lower Raven Buttress
129 The Bewilderness E1 5b 2
130 Hidden Gem HVS 5a 2
131 Yogi HVS 5b * 20
132 Valhalla Wall HVS 5a 48
133 Valhalla Wall Direct E1 5b 23
134 Fly On The Wall HS 4b ** 654
135 Brown Legs E1 5b 5
136 Imperialist HVS 5a 52
137 Black Widow E1 5b 24
138 Silken Thread/Imperialist HVS 5a ** 138
139 Silken Thread HVS 5a 45
140 Smash or Grab E3 6a 1
141 Tarantula HVS 5b * 25
142 Shelob E1 5b 1
143 Spider's Web HVS 5a *** 361
144 Mango Corner VS 4c 33
145 Boris VS 4c 8
  Upper Raven Buttress
147 Back to Nature VS 4c 5
148 Snoopy E2 5b 1
149 Raven Face VD * 218
150 Randy VS 4c,4c * 45
151 Safe Sex HVS 5a 7
152 Yosemite Sam VS 4b 8
153 Yosemite VS 4c 3
154 Cyberpunk HVS 5a 4
155 Armada HS 4a 129
156 The Mammoth Roof HVS  
157 Bolshevik HVS 5b 7
158 Search for the Ultimate Jacuzzi HVS 5a 11
159 Corner Chimney HVS 5a 8
160 Grunting in the Gutter E1 5b 1
161 Dragon Song E3 6a ** 10
162 Dragon Song Variation Finish E3 5c 1
163 The Dangler E1 5b * 6
164 Apparition HVS 5b 4
165 Nibelung E1 5b 1
166 Mossy Eyes E1 5a * 4
167 Moss Wall Variation * E6 6c * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer James Mann