Climbs 147
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces S

Character building -- Reverse Cleft at Dewerstone © Dedbloke

Crag features

The Dewerstone is a fantastic low to middle grade venue which remains climbable year round. Set in magical woodland the area consists of a number of contrasting crags which vary from multi-pitch classics to single pitch micro routes with all sorts in between. The rock is usually sound and protection when placed well is good. Some of the less travelled routes (particularly on the upper buttresses) have suffered badly from re-vegetation through lack of traffic and would certainly require cleaning before being climbable. This should be done sensitively and discreetly and under no circumstances should any trees be chopped down at all! The area is host to a grat deal of flora and fauna and during recent times birds of prey have nested on some sections of the main crag during the spring. These birds should not be disturbed and climbers should be able to make their own judgements about which areas should be avoided at these times.

Concerns have been expressed about erosion and footpaths should be kept to where possible. The most up to date definitive guide is the Tim Dennell pdf guide which can be reached through the Javu Website. All of the routes in the Rockfax guide are worthwhile but many other little gems can be found throughout the area. 

Another area called Crow Buttress exists another ten minutes walk upstream.  








Approach notes

From the A38 go via Ivybridge to Cornwood, then take signs to Shaugh Prior. The car park is on the R, before the humpback bridge over the river Plym. >From Plymouth, turn R off the A386 at Roborough (signpost says Bickleigh/Shaugh Prior). A mile past Bickleigh you pass over the humpback bridge: the car park is on the L. From the car park, take the wooden footbridge and follow the path until it steepens where you can branch right to take a smaller path which contours the hillside above the river and leads to the crag (about 800yds).


The land belongs to the NT, which is worried about erosion: please take all your litter home.


Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
incredible venue, shadowed slightly by so many punters rocking up. Had some mongoloid throwing rocks towards the river when we arrived nearly hitting us.
Stanners - 27/Sep/14
A delightful day out at one of Dartmoor's finest venues, namely The Dewerstone in South West Devon, on one of the crag classics called "Central Groove" which is surely one the best climbs of it's grade at Hard Severe in the UK. Set in the magical ancient wooded valley of Shaugh Prior by the babbling River Plym, The Dewerstone is home to numerous gorgeous granite climbs throughout the grades and hopefully this short film will inspire a few folks to pay a visit to sample some of the delights on offer! :-)
BALD EAGLE - 18/Jul/14
Repeated mann9076's new E1. Nice new route, good to see new stuff appearing from under the moss! Nice route, get on it!
Tom Last - 01/Jun/14
Two new routes climbed this week on In Extremis Buttress above Needle Buttress. Will Hornby did La Crème Noire which takes the obvious wall between Crème Brûlée and La Bête Noire. Not sure of grade yet but quite hard and with cunning gear. Meilleurs Chiens du Monde takes the arete and wall right of La Bête Noire. These routes are both worth doing and are clean right now as is La Bête Noire. Make the walk up the hill and get on them!
James Mann - 31/May/14
All the routes from Fruitflancase to CC Superdirect have been cleaned so the nut placements are no longer full of mud. Get on them and keep them clean! This includes The Ultimate Eliminate Direct which awaits a second ascent?
Kafoozalem - 26/Feb/13
climbers club direct, attemted this on the 19th of august! in damp conditions... first step onto the main crack P1 is wayyyy too polished to get purchase on in the wet! will be coming back next summer when its dry!!
mackay780 - 28/Sep/11
Central Groove 24th May 2011 There are a few loose-ish blocks (now more like chockstones) in the groove on pitch 1. Pretty large one came out today level with the start of the overhangs on Vala. Certainly would have killed a belayer, helmet or no. There are still a couple more beneath this point.
jayjackson - 24/May/11
24th May 2011 Large crows' nest at the top of the "V" groove on Climbers' Club routes. Sounds like the chicks have just hatched so consider avoiding this section either left via P2 of Gideon or right on P2 of Globe & Laurell (harder). Also, nesting bird of prey (peregrin maybe?) just right of Central Groove P1 belay, directly above the top of Fruitflancase P1.
jayjackson - 24/May/11
Great crag and my local :) Routes I have done and would recommend include - Central Groove HS4b 4b, Climbers Club Ordinary VS, Leviathan VS 4c, Reverse Cleft - Severe, Tower Crack HS 4b and Spiders Web HVS 5a 5a. Also a load of classic VD multi-pitches.
Jon - 16/Nov/06
Recent rock fall on Climbers Club Ordinary. Dangerous looking loose rock 20ft up now. avoid the routes surrounding CC Ordinary. (as of c20.8.06)
StevO - 24/Aug/06
From over the footbridge, take an immediate right and follow the good path alongside the the river. The cobbled path that goes steeply uphill leads you away from the crag (although you can use it to reach the top, then scramble down).
Nick Smith - UKC - 22/Jul/06
Had great time bank holiday Sunday.Probably the most beautifull place i have had the pleasure to visit yet.Leviathan gives great value,but i think some form of permanant rap station should be considered,because the oak tree at the top is looking a bit sorry for itself.It wont be long before it suffers the same fate as the one at the top of Mucky Gully.
gjw5670 - 30/Aug/05
Upper buttresses are overgrown, and the footpath is not obvious, looks like they need more traffic Easter 2005
Big Steve - 28/Mar/05
Excellent climbing for low to middle grade climbers on Dartmoor Granite. Head for the classic corner of Central Groove (HS), or the other classic Climbers, Club (VS). If the crag is too crowded head up to the Upper Buttresses to get away. Excellent venue for a summer evening's climbing, followed by a swim in the river.
John Hearne - 13/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Tooth Area 
2Al denteVS 4c 7
3Bruised HeelsE1 5b 5
4Bruised FeelingsVS 4c 2
5Slapping Flapping Faffing FatherE1 5a 1
6Oblong/TrapeziumE2 5b 1
7Dr GreenthumbsHVS 5a  
 The Tower 
9WindowpaneVS 4c *79
10Moss WallE6 6b/c 2
11Tower CrackHS 4b **155
12TCRHFE4 6b 5
13Cower TrackE6 6a **4
14WindowsillHS 4a ***42
15Window SlitVD **162
16Slap HappyE5 6a **2
17What a flakin small holdE4 6a **1
 Penny Bay 
19The Admiral's HoleS 11
20Wobbling WallE1 5b *20
21Twittering CrackHVS 5a 51
22Saint's NicheS 4b 154
 Agag's Slab Area 
24Agag's DirectS 4a 353
25Agag's SlabD 648
26Agags Forgotten BrotherHD 21
27The Garden PathD 26
VS 4b 35
 Mambo Slab Area 
30GoblinVS 4c 203
31Mambo SlabVD 444
32ElfVS 4b 44
33Caesar's NoseS 4a 530
34Cadbury's FlakeS 4a 42
35Halcyon DazeE1 5b  
 Upper Pinacle Buttress Left Hand 
37Dewerstone FlagshipE4 6a *2
38Hagar the HorribleE4 6a *11
39GnasherHVS 5b 10
40AliyahE5 6a *1
41Holly Tree Wall DirectHVS 5a 123
42Rufty TuftyE1 5b 28
43Holly Tree WallD 385
44Pinnacle ChimneyVD 3c 284
45TroyHVS 4c 23
 Pinnacle Buttress 
47Pinnacle Buttress DirectHS 4a 227
48Pinnacle ButtressVD **545
49Mucky GullyD **1145
50Reverse CleftS 4a *462
51Colonel's CavortHS 4a 113
 Colonel's Arete Area 
53Colonel's AreteVD **1034
 Main Gully 
55SayonaraHVS 5a  
56If I Should Fall From Grace With GodE3 5c  
57Dark CleftVD 12
58The EchoHVS 5a 2
59KernowS 4b 12
60The TunnelD 38
61Suspension WallS 8
62The High TraverseVD 27
 Vineyard Area 
64Wrath of GrapesE3 5c 1
65VineyardVS 4b 378
66Vineyard VariationS 4b 12
67Inkspots HangoverE1 5b *36
68Pinkspots HeadacheE1 5b 2
 The Devil's Rock 
70Cretin's CavortHVS 5a 87
71LeviathanVS 4c ***1078
72Extendable ArmsE1 5c,5b *19
73ValaHVS 5a **430
74Return from the KurdsE1 5c 5
75Central GrooveHS 4b ***1992
76ScimitarE1 5b *92
77Scimitar DirectE1 5b ***72
78Scimitar VariationsE1 5b ***16
79FruitflancaseE1 5a ***246
80GideonE1 5b ***165
81Energy CrisisE4 6a 2
82Climbers' Club DirectHVS 5a ***540
83Ultimate EliminateE2 5c 2
84Ultimate Eliminate DirectE3 5c **3
85Climbers' Club Super DirectE1 5b 18
86granite guruE5 6b *6
87Halls of IllusionE5 6a  
88Piglet Wall Direct StartE5 6b **1
89Globe and LaurelHVS 5a 13
90Climbers' Club OrdinaryVS 4b **645
91Bee LineHVS 5a 32
92Route BHVD **682
93KnucklecrackerHS 4a 19
94Cornish ReprieveHVS 5a *10
95Lateral ThinkingE1 5c 1
96The Admiral's TraverseVD 23
97Cornish ReverseVS 4c 1
 Needle Buttress 
99CleopatraVS 4c 10
100PortalS 4b 75
101Needle AreteVD **755
102The CamelHS 4a *121
103The StitchE1 5b 10
104CyclopsHVS 5a *117
105ScorpionHS 4b 30
106Final TouchE1 5c 3
107Final Touch DirectE3 6a  
108ExaltationHVS 5a 3
109BabylonS 4a 7
110WinnetHVS 5a 1
111Shades of GreenHVS 5b 1
112Wire BrushVS 4c  
 In Extremis Buttress 
114In ExtremisHVS 5a 11
115Short and Snappy
E2 5b  
116Left Chimney
D 6
117Crème BrouléeE4 5c 14
118La Creme Noir DirectE7 6b *8
119La Crème NoireE5 6b **17
120La Bête NoireE1 5b 38
121Meilleurs Chiens du MondeE1 5b *16
122Sloppy GullyD 14
 Raven Buttress 
 Lower Raven Buttress 
125The BewildernessE1 5b 2
126Hidden GemHVS 5a 2
127YogiHVS 5b *16
128Valhalla WallHVS 5a 46
129Valhalla Wall DirectE1 5b 12
130Fly On The WallHS 4b **521
131Brown LegsE1 5b 4
132ImperialistHVS 5a 50
133Black WidowE1 5b 15
134Silken Thread/ImperialistHVS 5a **97
135Silken ThreadHVS 5a 39
136Smash or GrabE3 6a 1
137TarantulaHVS 5b *21
138ShelobE1 5b 1
139Spider's WebHVS 5a ***302
140Mango CornerVS 4c 30
141BorisVS 4c 7
 Upper Raven Buttress 
143Back to NatureVS 4c 5
144SnoopyE2 5b  
145Raven FaceVD *185
146RandyVS 4c,4c *39
147Safe SexHVS 5a 7
148Yosemite SamVS 4b 8
149YosemiteVS 4c 2
150CyberpunkHVS 5a 4
151ArmadaHS 4a 113
152The Mammoth RoofHVS  
153BolshevikHVS 5b 7
154Search for the Ultimate JacuzziHVS 5a 9
155Corner ChimneyHVS 5a 7
156Grunting in the GutterE1 5b  
157Dragon SongE3 6a **11
158Dragon Song Variation FinishE3 5c 1
159The DanglerE1 5b *6
160ApparitionHVS 5b 3
161NibelungE1 5b 1
162Mossy EyesE1 5a *4
163Moss Wall Variation *E6 6c *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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