Climbs 148
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces S

Character building -- Reverse Cleft at Dewerstone © Dedbloke

Crag features

The Dewerstone is a fantastic low to middle grade venue which remains climbable year round. Set in magical woodland the area consists of a number of contrasting crags which vary from multi-pitch classics to single pitch micro routes with all sorts in between. The rock is usually sound and protection when placed well is good. Some of the less travelled routes (particularly on the upper buttresses) have suffered badly from re-vegetation through lack of traffic and would certainly require cleaning before being climbable. This should be done sensitively and discreetly and under no circumstances should any trees be chopped down at all! The area is host to a great deal of flora and fauna and during recent times birds of prey have nested on some sections of the main crag during the spring. These birds should not be disturbed and climbers should be able to make their own judgements about which areas should be avoided at these times.

Concerns have been expressed about erosion and footpaths should be kept to where possible. The most up to date definitive guide is the Tim Dennell pdf guide which can be reached through the Javu Website. All of the routes in the Rockfax guide are worthwhile but many other little gems can be found throughout the area. 

Another area called Crow Buttress exists another ten minutes walk upstream.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Approach notes

From the A38 go via Ivybridge to Cornwood, then take signs to Shaugh Prior. The car park is on the R, before the humpback bridge over the river Plym. >From Plymouth, turn R off the A386 at Roborough (signpost says Bickleigh/Shaugh Prior). A mile past Bickleigh you pass over the humpback bridge: the car park is on the L. From the car park, take the wooden footbridge and follow the path until it steepens where you can branch right to take a smaller path which contours the hillside above the river and leads to the crag (about 800yds).

 

The land belongs to the NT, which is worried about erosion: please take all your litter home.

 

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
A delightful day out at one of Dartmoor's finest venues, namely The Dewerstone in South West Devon, on one of the crag classics called "Central Groove" which is surely one the best climbs of it's grade at Hard Severe in the UK. Set in the magical ancient wooded valley of Shaugh Prior by the babbling River Plym, The Dewerstone is home to numerous gorgeous granite climbs throughout the grades and hopefully this short film will inspire a few folks to pay a visit to sample some of the delights on offer! :-) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6nVM-5_04U
BALD EAGLE - 18/Jul/14
Repeated mann9076's new E1. Nice new route, good to see new stuff appearing from under the moss! Nice route, get on it!
Tom Last - 01/Jun/14
Two new routes climbed this week on In Extremis Buttress above Needle Buttress. Will Hornby did La Crme Noire which takes the obvious wall between Crme Brle and La Bte Noire. Not sure of grade yet but quite hard and with cunning gear. Meilleurs Chiens du Monde takes the arete and wall right of La Bte Noire. These routes are both worth doing and are clean right now as is La Bte Noire. Make the walk up the hill and get on them!
James Mann - 31/May/14
All the routes from Fruitflancase to CC Superdirect have been cleaned so the nut placements are no longer full of mud. Get on them and keep them clean! This includes The Ultimate Eliminate Direct which awaits a second ascent?
Kafoozalem - 26/Feb/13
climbers club direct, attemted this on the 19th of august! in damp conditions... first step onto the main crack P1 is wayyyy too polished to get purchase on in the wet! will be coming back next summer when its dry!!
mackay780 - 28/Sep/11
Central Groove 24th May 2011 There are a few loose-ish blocks (now more like chockstones) in the groove on pitch 1. Pretty large one came out today level with the start of the overhangs on Vala. Certainly would have killed a belayer, helmet or no. There are still a couple more beneath this point.
jayjackson - 24/May/11
24th May 2011 Large crows' nest at the top of the "V" groove on Climbers' Club routes. Sounds like the chicks have just hatched so consider avoiding this section either left via P2 of Gideon or right on P2 of Globe & Laurell (harder). Also, nesting bird of prey (peregrin maybe?) just right of Central Groove P1 belay, directly above the top of Fruitflancase P1.
jayjackson - 24/May/11
Great crag and my local :) Routes I have done and would recommend include - Central Groove HS4b 4b, Climbers Club Ordinary VS, Leviathan VS 4c, Reverse Cleft - Severe, Tower Crack HS 4b and Spiders Web HVS 5a 5a. Also a load of classic VD multi-pitches.
Jon - 16/Nov/06
Recent rock fall on Climbers Club Ordinary. Dangerous looking loose rock 20ft up now. avoid the routes surrounding CC Ordinary. (as of c20.8.06)
StevO - 24/Aug/06
From over the footbridge, take an immediate right and follow the good path alongside the the river. The cobbled path that goes steeply uphill leads you away from the crag (although you can use it to reach the top, then scramble down).
Nick Smith - UKC - 22/Jul/06
Had great time bank holiday Sunday.Probably the most beautifull place i have had the pleasure to visit yet.Leviathan gives great value,but i think some form of permanant rap station should be considered,because the oak tree at the top is looking a bit sorry for itself.It wont be long before it suffers the same fate as the one at the top of Mucky Gully.
gjw5670 - 30/Aug/05
Upper buttresses are overgrown, and the footpath is not obvious, looks like they need more traffic Easter 2005
Big Steve - 28/Mar/05
Excellent climbing for low to middle grade climbers on Dartmoor Granite. Head for the classic corner of Central Groove (HS), or the other classic Climbers, Club (VS). If the crag is too crowded head up to the Upper Buttresses to get away. Excellent venue for a summer evening's climbing, followed by a swim in the river.
John Hearne - 13/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Tooth Area
2 Al dente VS 4c 9
3 Bruised Heels E1 5b 5
4 Bruised Feelings VS 4c 2
5 Slapping Flapping Faffing Father E1 5a 1
6 Oblong/Trapezium E2 5b 1
7 Dr Greenthumbs HVS 5a  
  The Tower
9 Windowpane VS 4c * 91
10 Moss Wall E6 6b/c 2
11 Tower Crack HS 4b ** 174
12 TCRHF E4 6b 5
13 Cower Track E6 6a ** 2
14 Windowsill HS 4a *** 49
15 Window Slit VD ** 176
16 Slap Happy E5 6a ** 2
17 What a flakin small hold E4 6a ** 1
  Penny Bay
19 The Admiral's Hole S 14
20 Wobbling Wall E1 5b * 20
21 Twittering Crack HVS 5a 58
22 Saint's Niche S 4b 163
23 Wobbling wall direct *
-
E2 5c * 1
  Agag's Slab Area
25 Agag's Direct S 4a 376
26 Agag's Slab D 681
27 Agags Forgotten Brother HD 25
28 The Garden Path D 24
29 Noddy
-
VS 4b 38
  Mambo Slab Area
31 Goblin VS 4c 214
32 Mambo Slab VD 468
33 Elf VS 4b 51
34 Caesar's Nose S 4a 560
35 Cadbury's Flake S 4a 45
36 Halcyon Daze E1 5b  
  Upper Pinacle Buttress Left Hand
38 Dewerstone Flagship E4 6a * 2
39 Hagar the Horrible E4 6a * 14
40 Gnasher HVS 5b 10
41 Aliyah E5 6a * 1
42 Holly Tree Wall Direct HVS 5a 126
43 Rufty Tufty E1 5b 25
44 Holly Tree Wall D 399
45 Pinnacle Chimney VD 3c 293
46 Troy HVS 4c 26
  Pinnacle Buttress
48 Pinnacle Buttress Direct HS 4a 245
49 Pinnacle Buttress VD ** 591
50 Mucky Gully D ** 1215
51 Reverse Cleft S 4a * 510
52 Colonel's Cavort HS 4a 111
  Colonel's Arete Area
54 Colonel's Arete VD ** 1114
  Main Gully
56 Sayonara HVS 5a  
57 If I Should Fall From Grace With God E3 5c  
58 Dark Cleft VD 13
59 The Echo HVS 5a 2
60 Kernow S 4b 12
61 The Tunnel D 36
62 Suspension Wall S 8
63 The High Traverse VD 27
  Vineyard Area
65 Wrath of Grapes E3 5c 1
66 Vineyard VS 4b 404
67 Vineyard Variation S 4b 12
68 Inkspots Hangover E1 5b * 37
69 Pinkspots Headache E1 5b 2
  The Devil's Rock
71 Cretin's Cavort HVS 5a 92
72 Leviathan VS 4c *** 1167
73 Extendable Arms E1 5c,5b * 23
74 Vala HVS 5a ** 472
75 Return from the Kurds E1 5c 5
76 Central Groove HS 4b *** 2165
77 Scimitar E1 5b * 99
78 Scimitar Direct E1 5b *** 115
79 Scimitar Variations E1 5b *** 23
80 Fruitflancase E1 5a *** 278
81 Gideon E1 5b *** 193
82 Energy Crisis E4 6a 2
83 Climbers' Club Direct HVS 5a *** 594
84 Ultimate Eliminate E2 5c 2
85 Ultimate Eliminate Direct E3 5c ** 3
86 Climbers' Club Super Direct E1 5b 18
87 granite guru E5 6b * 6
88 Halls of Illusion E5 6a  
89 Piglet Wall Direct Start E5 6b ** 3
90 Globe and Laurel HVS 5a 11
91 Climbers' Club Ordinary VS 4b ** 691
92 Bee Line HVS 5a 36
93 Route B HVD ** 728
94 Knucklecracker HS 4a 17
95 Cornish Reprieve HVS 5a * 12
96 Lateral Thinking E1 5c 3
97 The Admiral's Traverse VD 23
98 Cornish Reverse VS 4c 1
  Needle Buttress
100 Cleopatra VS 4c 10
101 Portal S 4b 74
102 Needle Arete VD ** 791
103 The Camel HS 4a * 140
104 The Stitch E1 5b 11
105 Cyclops HVS 5a * 125
106 Scorpion HS 4b 39
107 Final Touch E1 5c 3
108 Final Touch Direct E3 6a  
109 Exaltation HVS 5a 3
110 Babylon S 4a 7
111 Winnet HVS 5a 1
112 Shades of Green HVS 5b 1
113 Wire Brush VS 4c  
  In Extremis Buttress
115 In Extremis HVS 5a 11
116 Short and Snappy
-
E2 5b  
117 Left Chimney
-
D 5
118 Crème Broulée E4 5c 14
119 La Creme Noir Direct E7 6b * 6
120 La Crème Noire E5 6b ** 18
121 La Bête Noire E1 5b 47
122 Meilleurs Chiens du Monde E1 5b * 23
123 Sloppy Gully D 14
  Raven Buttress
  Lower Raven Buttress
126 The Bewilderness E1 5b 2
127 Hidden Gem HVS 5a 2
128 Yogi HVS 5b * 16
129 Valhalla Wall HVS 5a 51
130 Valhalla Wall Direct E1 5b 13
131 Fly On The Wall HS 4b ** 564
132 Brown Legs E1 5b 4
133 Imperialist HVS 5a 48
134 Black Widow E1 5b 17
135 Silken Thread/Imperialist HVS 5a ** 115
136 Silken Thread HVS 5a 42
137 Smash or Grab E3 6a 1
138 Tarantula HVS 5b * 27
139 Shelob E1 5b 1
140 Spider's Web HVS 5a *** 336
141 Mango Corner VS 4c 31
142 Boris VS 4c 7
  Upper Raven Buttress
144 Back to Nature VS 4c 5
145 Snoopy E2 5b  
146 Raven Face VD * 198
147 Randy VS 4c,4c * 45
148 Safe Sex HVS 5a 7
149 Yosemite Sam VS 4b 8
150 Yosemite VS 4c 2
151 Cyberpunk HVS 5a 4
152 Armada HS 4a 112
153 The Mammoth Roof HVS  
154 Bolshevik HVS 5b 7
155 Search for the Ultimate Jacuzzi HVS 5a 11
156 Corner Chimney HVS 5a 7
157 Grunting in the Gutter E1 5b  
158 Dragon Song E3 6a ** 14
159 Dragon Song Variation Finish E3 5c 1
160 The Dangler E1 5b * 6
161 Apparition HVS 5b 3
162 Nibelung E1 5b 1
163 Mossy Eyes E1 5a * 4
164 Moss Wall Variation * E6 6c * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer James Mann