2 pitches. 1) E1 5b+. At the point where you step out onto the slab for Simitar, climb direct to the roof, via a thin crack. After the move round the roof (as for Scimitar), traverse right, to the arête. Climb this arête, passing pegs on the main face.
Bold, for its grade.
The roof, connecting the start and the arête, has yet to be climbed direct...

FA. P.Littlejohn 1968

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

beni 04/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with Annika
ollie1 20/Oct/17 Lead O/S
LDJ 20/Oct/17 2nd
with Ollie
mattcoleman 16/Aug/17 2nd
m.powell02 16/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/17 TR
LoneDeranger 01/Aug/17 TR
with tp45597
andy_pemberton 13/Jul/17 Lead

Nearly messed up the move round the roof!

Phil79 07/Jul/17 TR
with Shunt
keepguessing 21/Jun/17 Solo rpt
kierankeavy 21/Jun/17 Lead dog

Tough for E1... although made it harder for myself by trying to take the roof direct, idiot! Got pumped placing a piece of gear before this, thank fuck I did though- there is a now a bomber in-situ size 1 nut in the thin crack leading up to the roof. Face after was fantastic, although there is a ~5m section where a ground-fall is certain. Good cams in a break after this and then easy climbing on good gear to the top. Spicy!

Laityv1 21/Jun/17 2nd O/S


with Ant, kierankeavy
LDJ 23/Apr/17 Lead
with Simon
keepguessing ?/Apr/17 Lead O/S

April maybe?

with sam
alice fuller 08/Jun/16 2nd β

Nice face climbing, the tricky move went welll once i got my feet up, got the ropes out of the crack, committed to a layback and a Pete Townsend.Too little gear for me to get excited about leading it

AlexD 17/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Climbed up middle of the face rather than arete.

with Ceri
Ceridwen ?/Sep/15 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Jul/15 2nd dog
andrewmc 04/Jul/15 2nd dog

Totally knackered getting the gear out under the roof, and couldn't make the big reach, cut-loose, reposition and rock-over :( sandbag at 5b! although the rest is not so bad.

ewalker278 04/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 26/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/15 2nd dog
Hidden 09/May/15 Lead O/S
georgeevans88 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Great route. Strong moves to get around the roof but not actually too bad as long as you keep moving. Bailed out of leading the 5b roof of Schimitar Variations (Roackfax) at the top. Felt more like 5c to me and with the possibility of hitting the ledge before the gear caught.

with Jamie
zcsharp 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S

The first pitch was beautiful, quite sustained but with rests in the right spots. Over the overhang was a crimp fest but didn't release how run out it was gonna be so that added some spice to things. We were gonna do scimitar variations as according to the rockfax guide but after George avoided it and then i had a go top roping it on second it is much harder than 5b and is very serious if you fall.

Ewan Russell 11/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

I did 2nd pitch of extendable arms described a scimitar variations

with Tom Nichols
John Tanner 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Great route. Topped out via Central Groove but fancy coming back for the 5b top pitch as per Rockfax Westcountry Climbs 'Scimitar Variation'

tobydunford 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr, Harry Martin
nickstephens 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
with ian hang-on-the-rope hendy, Gareth Greeves
Macca_7 19/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Great route which has a tricky move round the roof which starts the sustained section to an easing. Good moves on nervy thin holds with pretty poor gear! Descriptions are confusing did Scimitar with the direct start I think. Finished up Central Groove.

Hidden 17/Mar/14 Lead dog
nickstephens 01/Mar/14 AltLd dnf

Impending darkness and a dripping roof put us off the last pitch

ptrickey ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Anyela Camargo Rodriguez
nickstephens 15/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Rain stopped play :o(

LDJ 14/Sep/13 Lead
with Lou
Tristan Sherlock 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1. Excellent route. Hard move round the roof.

shoulders 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
metal arms 30/May/13 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1

hornbywill 18/May/13 Lead O/S
Jordon Fleming 02/May/13 AltLd O/S

lead p1. was such a cool route. the move out from under the roof was amazing and the face climbing was really cool. E1 5B

Ed morris 25/Apr/13 Lead β

After taking a whipper two years ago

with Ian
Hidden 18/Apr/13 -
willhornby ??/2013 -
Alex the Alex ?/Sep/12 Lead dog

One fall coming round the overhang. climbed the slab with forearms bulging...

Bristoldave 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Caroline
dswansonlow 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Gramps
Hidden 13/Nov/11 AltLd dog
burto 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with hertha
rustaldo 21/Oct/11 Lead O/S

E2 IMO. hard to commit to the move around the "roof". Was planning on Scimitar Variations as per rockfax, although it got dark and we escaped up the 2nd pitch of central groove.. climbing is awesome after the roof. Awesome holds and

with Stubbs
carl_123 20/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/11 Lead O/S
brynmays 31/Aug/11 Lead dnf

took a big fall coming out of the overhang by the first crack, got injured so i decided not to continue. hopefully i will this climb done :D

Hidden 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
EmilyElouise 08/Aug/11 2nd dog
nickdonohue ?/Jul/11 Lead

Great climb, 'adequate' gear (small / medium) cams on the upper wall of the 1st pitch. One of the best routes at the Dewerstone.

with Pete Merrick
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Bobby Gilbert 04/Sep/10 Lead
katherinesydney 04/Sep/10 2nd dog

pinged off coming out from under the overhang. climbed a bit of central groove to get back on route. really enjoyed climbing the face - amazing holds!

Luke d 30/Aug/09 TR O/S
Marti999 24/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Popkids 01/Mar/09 2nd dog

My feet popped off just as I tried to climb out from the overhang. I lead from the belay.

with Kafoozalem
Steerpike 22/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Tommo
sebrider ??/2008 Lead dnf

Twice I have bottled it and gone into central groove!! All straight forward otherwise!

alaan 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Bold headwall and excellent.

with Me sis
Dave Searle 10/Jun/07 Lead
with sim
cem 09/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Led p1

climber sim ??/2007 -
David Sherratt ??/2007 Lead O/S
colin milton 22/Jun/06 2nd
with salamanda
Hidden ??/2006 2nd
leadmat ??/2006 Lead
feilx ??/2005 -
Hidden 12/Apr/04 Lead O/S
tom.e ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Charlie Everett
Hidden 05/Sep/03 Lead
Ally Smith ??/2003 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt ??/2003 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 04/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Gerry Martin
clark alston ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Dick Hanson
Hidden ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
duncan 21/Apr/00 Lead O/S
with Dan Donovan
Hidden ??/2000 -
Mark Kemball 05/Dec/99 2nd
with Nic Dill
Hidden ?/Jul/99 Lead
Simon cook ??/1997 -
NickJH ??/1991 -
Hidden 28/Dec/85 Lead β
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