Rockfax Description
Great climbing with a very thin but well protected crux to finish. This is the line to the left of the prominent square pocket in the slanting break. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Upgraded to e2 in definitive guide.

FA. H.Griffiths, M.Harber, G.Lewis, C.Parkin 1985

Ticklists: Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Hidden 03/Oct/17 2nd O/S
Paul ablitt 30/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Sarah
PaddyFreer 26/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with freec
freec 26/Aug/17 TR

1 hard move at the top

MSchobitz 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Awesome moves on filthy crimps, but never E1! Bold middle warrants E2, top move warrants 5c.

CRead 18/Jun/17 2nd

Tasty crimp pulling - awesome

with Micki
Coel Hellier 28/May/17 Lead
WillAndrew 28/May/17 Lead O/S

Really good. Would be a bit of shock if you got on this thinking it was just E1

with KatePG
hlegge 26/May/17 Lead O/S

Bit weird, and not sure i can really say i lead this as Sam lead most of route. But when he backed off the crux i lead through this to the top... so a sort of lead...

Sani 26/May/17 2nd
with hlegge
jonny_098 13/May/17 TR O/S

Good but really hard at top

with George Lewtas
James Smith 16/Apr/17 Lead
with melty
JoeCoxson 14/Apr/17 2nd O/S

Proper 5c moves at the top. Deserves E2

with JakeB.
Hidden 14/Apr/17 Lead O/S
robpartridge 29/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Sarah
mjeffery 13/Oct/16 Lead

Failed on the last move 5 years ago so can't claim the onsight. How was this ever graded E1? E2 for the runout alone.

with Ray
Hidden 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
cem 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Claiming the onsight as I last did it 11 years ago and I didn't remember it.

pingora 27/Aug/16 2nd
with Charles
Matt77 29/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Never E1 and hard 5c.

with Shane
islandlynx 29/Jul/16 2nd
dom94 08/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Never E1, felt like a solid E2

amccann 08/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Dom
Bernie L 26/Sep/15 Lead β

Lead on Chris's gear up to half hight

cdpuk 26/Sep/15 2nd RP

Had a moment on lead after selecting the wrong line. Sent Bernie up it.

Hidden 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/15 Lead O/S
M_Robinson 17/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Adam24B 17/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Kris2fa 17/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
SimonOliver 25/May/15 2nd
with Dan S
Hidden 04/May/15 Lead O/S
jonny_098 09/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Disagree with guidebook - I think its well protected in start and finish with 2 tricky moves at top.

with Alex Cutbush
A Crook 28/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Felt more like 6a, very sustained route with a large gear less section in the middle

NeilGriffiths 28/Aug/14 -
with Adam
rd20 22/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Vince
3 Names 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Robert Dufton
Matt Smith 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Very pleased to have got this, close to coming off it at top.

Hidden 16/Aug/14 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Jul/14 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Dan Geh 06/Jun/14 TR O/S
with Paddy
Dan Hostford 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Good gear going up and on the crux. Some how bled all over myself and the top holds.

Remi Richards 03/May/14 2nd
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead dog
Stefan_Morris 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
jcw ??/2014 -
James Oswald 05/Sep/13 Lead rpt

After seconding Jon on it a few years ago. Definitely not E1, the middle section is runout 5b which may involve hitting the ground if you fall off. The top section is very hard 5c, albeit very well protected. E2. Very good climbing though. 3 stars.

Hardcore Pat 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Lynds, Dan Osbasabooboo
Adam Booth 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
edmitchell 31/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Ellen Cobby 31/Aug/13 2nd O/S
DanOsb 30/Aug/13 2nd
rd20 25/Aug/13 Lead dog

Fell three times making crux move - tried something different and it worked.

with Sonya
Matt Cooke 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
pie_eater_pete 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Andrew1 13/Jul/13 2nd
with Hulda
Hulda 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Andi
a13x 15/Jun/13 Lead dog
kyaizawa 13/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 30/May/13 2nd β
shed_hed 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Found the crux quite thin but loads of gear.

with Dennis, John Moran
Dennis999 06/May/13 2nd O/S
RFWilkie 05/May/13 Lead O/S

Scary runout in the middle and very small gear. Top move was OK.

with James
Chi Cheng 03/May/13 Lead O/S
with Adam Knightly
dprctr 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Bold middle section and the crux was amazing. I found it reachy and I'm not short. Was glad to have some brass for this.

rd20 25/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with David P
Aaron Lines 02/Aug/12 Lead
with jim, Dan
mike lawrence? 10/Jul/12 2nd


with James the Navigator
Hidden 04/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/12 2nd
r_o_b_h2 29/May/12 Lead O/S

great route but surely E2, difficulty compounded by sweaty mitts!

Hidden 29/May/12 2nd dog
kelliroberts3 27/May/12 2nd
kelliroberts3 27/May/12 Lead dnf
Pete Rigby 27/May/12 Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
will_benfold 26/May/12 Lead dog

Some very thin moves at the crux - hardest I've ever tried on lead. Took a fall but got back on and finished it.

with Rui Ribeiro
jossjones 23/May/12 Lead
simonf 12/May/12 Lead dog
with Simon
Aid@n 06/May/12 Lead O/S
vanderz 12/Apr/12 Lead O/S
markalmack 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

bad gear at the start, but a couple of sinker wires just below the crux move at the top.

Andrew Sandercock 07/Apr/12 2nd dog

Fluffed the top move. Fingers felt pretty rank after. Harder move than Kitten Claws!

with Mark A
Jams Crwca 25/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Backed off at crux :(

themadbrown 25/Mar/12 TR dog

Gutting when you know that you got up this two years ago with more 'aplomb' and the first ascentist was watching!Hayden was encouraging, wouldnt do a demo and confessed that he'd put the route up 20 years ago! Desparate top 2? metres.End of season target

with james
PAJames ??/2012 -
james.slater 12/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Did this by accident, a true onsight as i was expecting 5b! Very runout middle section with 5b climbing, and a very hard move at top, above gear, felt like E2!

Ceridwen 30/Sep/11 Lead dog

Took a whipper off the top, and got it next try!

with Dan Barbour, Andy Mosienko
dannyboy83 30/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Ceri
scorpia97 10/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Caspian
Hidden 10/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 09/Aug/11 Lead dnf
AlexRenshaw 28/Jul/11 2nd
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
felixthelion 22/Jul/11 Lead β

Run out in the middle above good gear in the break. Very thin top section but good gear. Probably E2

with anthony puddy
Hidden 20/Jul/11 -
Hidden 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
James Oswald 07/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Awesome. Bold section - may have been able to lead it, wouldn't want to fall off the bold 5b section though. Gear is reasonableish. Crux is awesome!

Anthony Allsopp 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Coutts
leon 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Most of the route felt reasonably bold as the none of the gear seemed bomber (it felt adequate but I like a nice bomber piece every now & then). Gear for the 5c move is bomber.

alj 30/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with leon skeldon
Glyn 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Luke, Barni
benchwarmer 28/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Konrad
Luke Brooks 28/Jun/11 2nd
with Glyn Hudson, Barni
barni 28/Jun/11 Lead
with luke
pebbles 01/Jun/11 2nd

tricky last moves - guido took several flying lessons before heading off left

with guido
Keendan 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Scary as! But easy climbing so not too much of an issue. Just expected more gear at the grade.

with Alun
Dibdawg 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Mark Sheridan
tobydunford 11/Apr/11 2nd β
with Harry Martin
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
jcurley 20/Oct/10 2nd dog
themadbrown 03/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Dont climb this after heavy rain...James, you're a star.Glad i wasn't leading!

with james
Jams Crwca 03/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Crackline saturated after heavy rain, might of missed out on a few foots/holds. Crux is so so thin, might enjoy it if its dry!

Hidden 07/Sep/10 2nd
david morse 07/Sep/10 Lead O/S

As thin as 5c gets at this crag. Feels run out in the middle but the gear on the crux is bomber

with siobhan
Hidden 26/Aug/10 2nd O/S
London Luke 15/Aug/10 Lead

awesome climb, fell on the crux.

with si Hill
Hidden 11/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
preet s 07/Jul/10 2nd
Stone Muppet 19/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Feeling wussy, lowered off after first third. Just as well, the crux (toproped when removing gear) is ridiculously hard.

with cm
spacey 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Paul Evans 15/May/10 2nd
with spacey
Hidden ?/May/10 2nd
funsized 20/Feb/10 2nd O/S
gidmord 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Ben Harper 20/Feb/10 2nd O/S
RobRock84 29/Sep/09 TR O/S

crux move is bold!great technical climbing!

Hidden 18/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Ed morris 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

very thin moves at the top but plenty of gear.

with Ronan Kemp
Hidden 15/May/09 Lead
Hidden 12/May/09 2nd
Brown 10/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with John
Hidden 25/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/08 2nd dog
PenJD 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Just lovely. Gear where you need it with some thin moves.

Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead rpt
Tim W 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/08 2nd dog
BenJacobs 12/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Ali K
Hidden 12/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/08 Lead O/S
irish paul 11/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Mark
Mark Walter 10/Jun/08 2nd O/S
MikeT ?/May/08 2nd O/S
with MS
Dan 85 05/May/07 Lead O/S
with Luke
Graeme Hammond 05/May/07 Lead dnf

took fall on the crux one move away fron finishing :-(

coffeepot 08/Apr/07 2nd
with jelaby
benjhans 05/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Greame took lead fall; delicate move at the top

crag_monster ?/Aug/06 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
barni ??/2006 2nd
with Paul James
Hidden 24/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Sam and will 16/Aug/05 TR O/S
cem 30/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with David T
Hidden 15/Aug/04 2nd
alex_th 10/Apr/04 2nd
with Tim Riley, Will Frost
Hidden 19/Apr/03 AltLd
goi.ashmore 22/Sep/02 Lead β
with Tony Jackson
Hidden 30/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Rock Fairy ?/Mar/02 2nd
with david
Hidden ??/2001 -
belay bunny turned bad ??/2000 -
Nigel Coe ??/1999 -
Nigel Coe ??/1997 Lead
with Dick Hanson
michael burrows 07/Apr/96 2nd
with richard parry
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
Neil R 31/Mar/91 2nd
with Mark
Hidden ??/1991 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Andy Say 31/May/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/88 Lead
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 49
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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