Rockfax Description
A real struggle for most up the steep corner - well worth seeking out though. © Rockfax
FA. J.Perrin Sep/1972.
Ticklists
The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Wales Trip - 2022 , Pembroke Extremes
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ariegeois | 25 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: fyi, Charenton was the name of the Paris lunatic asylum in which the Marquis de Sade was incarcerated during the revolutionary period. I first saw this crack on one of my earliest visits (1968/9) to Mowing Word with Mortlock . We soloed down Square Chimney to the tidal platform, saw this, and thought "Wow - that should be on Curbar!" On the first ascent, the crack was only intermittently open, and much of it was fretted over with flowstone. It was very hard as an onsight ascent, at least a couple of grades harder than it is now. My fingers were cut to ribbons and the crack covered in blood. I thought it the hardest thing I'd ever led and I was climbing well at the time. When I went back to repeat it some time later, I was amazed at the difference. Someone had hacked away the flowstone fretting and left the crack as you now find it. The same thing happened to routes on the White Sheet - abseil down, hack away with the spike of your peg hammer, and you get usable cracks where once there was absolute smoothness and lancet edges. Hey ho! First ascent ethics in those days were less clear than they later became, few ever came to Pembroke then, and what people did was out of the public eye. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: fyi, Charenton was the name of the Paris lunatic asylum in which the Marquis de Sade was incarcerated during the revolutionary period. I first saw this crack on one of my earliest visits (1968/9) to Mowing Word with Mortlock . We soloed down Square Chimney to the tidal platform, saw this, and thought "Wow - that should be on Curbar!" On the first ascent, the crack was only intermittently open, and much of it was fretted over with flowstone. It was very hard as an onsight ascent, at least a couple of grades harder than it is now. My fingers were cut to ribbons and the crack covered in blood. I thought it the hardest thing I'd ever led and I was climbing well at the time. When I went back to repeat it some time later, I was amazed at the difference. Someone had hacked away the flowstone fretting and left the crack as you now find it. The same thing happened to routes on the White Sheet - abseil down, hack away with the spike of your peg hammer, and you get usable cracks where once there was absolute smoothness and lancet edges. Hey ho! First ascent ethics in those days were less clear than they later became, few ever came to Pembroke then, and what people did was out of the public eye. |
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| PaulTanton | 24 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: The initial section off the ledge is pumps but it soon eases. Really good climbing on perfect gear, but don’t stop to place too much ???? | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The initial section off the ledge is pumps but it soon eases. Really good climbing on perfect gear, but don’t stop to place too much ???? |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mowing Word
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Rainbow Warriors
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Linney Head Area)