UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction is unsigned and applies to all routes on Right Wall (Peregrine Way to Prudence). The remaining routes including the popular scramble and descent are unrestricted.
35m. Ten metres below the start of Gabbro, a grassy ramp slants up rightwards below the buttress - this is at the level of the big chockstone in the scree gully. Scramble up this for 15 metres to a leveling below a short slab guarded by a tiny juniper.

(4c) Climb the slab and continue to a small cave. Step right and pull up the steep rib on shelving holds to gain and follow a fine slab. Continue up easier ribs to the top.

BJ Clarke 30/May/2005.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Johnhi 7 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Rock under the loose block is also mobile, at least two microwaves ready to go.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rock under the loose block is also mobile, at least two microwaves ready to go.
CathS 4 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Left hand 4b line through the cave as described in the FRCC guidebook is no longer safe to climb. The block step up to the slab sheared in half as my climbing partner stood on it while leading the route (2nd Sept 2023). The large microwave-sized block that then fell down the crag nearly decapitated me as belaying. What remains of the block is now extremely unstable, with further loose rock around it. There will be further rockfall if it is touched!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Left hand 4b line through the cave as described in the FRCC guidebook is no longer safe to climb. The block step up to the slab sheared in half as my climbing partner stood on it while leading the route (2nd Sept 2023). The large microwave-sized block that then fell down the crag nearly decapitated me as belaying. What remains of the block is now extremely unstable, with further loose rock around it. There will be further rockfall if it is touched!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gillercombe

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 4
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dexter Wall

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Grey Crag (Buttermere))

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