Rockfax Description
Quality and varied crack-and-groove work. Start up the steep groove on the left-hand side of the central bay of the cliff.
1) 5c, 30m. Climb the groove then move left to a flake. The continuation crack is good value and needs a determined approach, as does the exit. Move left to a belay on Creagh Dhu Wall's beefy tree.
2) 5c, 24m. The long groove is technical, sustained and well protected to a leftwards exit - more full-on climbing. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

George_Surf 04/Aug/17 Lead O/S

P1 is a sustained overhanging jamming crack. Mega safe once you start, top rope all the way and couple of awkward rests. P2 is difficult and very thin up the first half of the corner to the peg, hidden holds in the corner were overgrown and a bit wet. Hard and totally different pitches!

Pinguville 04/Aug/17 2nd

the sustained overhanging jamming crack was hard and awkward , but with some rests , very pumpy tho . P2 looked easier ...but alas it was also difficult, weird thin laybacks , finger jams , mega bridging and nothing for your feet , exciting ... Hard and totally different pitches!

with George
bwestwood 01/Aug/17 AltLd
pie_eater_pete 01/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with bwestwood
Phil4000 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Led both pitches, nightmare last move on pitch 1. Only just stayed on, pitch 2 v good.

with Percy
alexm198 01/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Hard work! The crack on P1 looks innocuous enough from below but the lack of footholds on the face mean that you have to contort yourself into the crack, making it feel much more strenuous than it appears. Thankfully the gear is excellent. Exiting the crack is very perplexing - I ended up grasping as much heather as I could wrap my hands around to yard over the lip! P2 is a complete contrast; thin, delicate, super technical climbing in the groove. Started to rain as Jack set off up P2 so by the time I followed it was pretty slick. Thankfully the groove stayed largely dry but the easy climbing at the top felt very sketchy. Led P1.

gripped01 01/Jul/17 2nd O/S
JackM92 01/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Class route. Top move on P1 easier with the heather and the groove on P2 superbly technical.

Hidden 30/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/17 2nd
KKilroy ?/Apr/17 Lead dog

Briars wetness and great fun. Harrddd

with claire
The old James turnbull 24/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with aiden
Marti999 12/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Great Brown route a fight all the way.

with Debbie
Hidden 21/Sep/16 AltLd dnf
khalidq 21/Sep/16 AltLd dog

Tried to lead pitch 1. I used every gram of effort but still had to rest then fell off near the top too. Finished up Craig Du in the rain.

with Ian Lau
Rollo 18/Aug/16 2nd dog

One rest on P1 which was BRUTAL!! P2 clean, very nice technical climbing.

mikeyjbs 18/Aug/16 Lead dog
with Rollo
jsmcfarland ?/Aug/16 Lead dog

Did P1 clean, which felt amazing as cracks aren't my specialty. With the correct beta the crux is miles easier than it could be, and there is a great knee bar just afterwards. I had to rest just after the pod foothold on P2 and then a little higher up. P2 is totally nails, borderline E3 just for effort I reckon, though the blistering heat probably played a large part there. Definitely will come back for this, great route.

with Robert
joedean 30/Jul/16 AltLd
James-m-h 30/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

First pitch was soaking and hard had to aid up the last bit top pitch was beautiful rested a few times but did it clean brilliant route

with joedean
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
spidermonkey09 14/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

P1. Hate jamming cracks so was pretty psyched with this. Amazing kneebar halfway up. The real crux is the final mantel!

Hidden 14/Sep/15 AltLd G/U
robpartridge 06/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Tom Nichols
jimxxx 05/Sep/15 AltLd dog
KeenClimber 05/Sep/15 AltLd

Lead P2

with Jim
jimxxx 29/Aug/15 AltLd dog

Rested before the last moves at the top of the first pitch as knackered . Chris did a great job on the second pitch and had a small fall at the start where it was a bit tricky .rest of the pitch felt tough as well .

guy757 24/Aug/15 -
Hidden 15/Aug/15 AltLd
cem 14/Jun/15 AltLd dnf

I led p1 (albeit it with the assistance of some heather when topping out) but neither of us could do p2 so, after a bit of dangling and a lot of swearing on my part, we gave up and did p2 of Creagh Dhu Wall instead.

Kirill 14/Jun/15 2nd dnf

After having a close look at P2, I was quick to bail. Charles had a few goes at it but gave up too. Escaped via the top pitch of Creagh Ddu Wall.

paul79 07/Jun/15 2nd dog
soph 23/May/15 AltLd rpt
with Helena Robinson
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
kyaizawa 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. Great route and athletic moves, but tricky and hard work, as can be expected of a JB route!!

eduardo 20/Sep/14 2nd dog
with Misha
Misha 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Quality! The ''overhanging crack" on P1 isn't really overhanging, it's just an awkwardly leaning jamming groove. That was fine until the top out, which was desperate! The finishing hold was a sloper which was covered in dirt and not very positive. Climbed down a bit to place a cam for confidence as had run it out a bit (take a cam 3), back up but still looked hard and not an easy position to hang around in, so pulled on a heather bush with one hand to get a foot up, desperate deeds! The second pitch looks easy but it's anything but, really good technical bridging and weirdness. Led both.

with Ed
dswansonlow 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

The first pitch felt easier than I expected (still tricky though) but the last move mantling out of the crack nearly had me off. Led second pitch as well which was superb!

with Harry Wickham
Hidden 04/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/May/14 AltLd O/S
Dan Vaj 26/Mar/14 2nd dog
with James McHaffie
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 2nd
with Dave Woodcock
mike mo ??/2014 -
Bob ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 11/Oct/13 AltLd rpt
Mark Warnett ?/May/13 Lead O/S

1st pitch only, required some beans

with Jim Duthie
khawk 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with DT
Duncan Campbell 07/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

led p2. Both pitches felt of similar difficulty, the first was thrutchy and strenuous, the second technical goodness! Sustained all the way. ***

with Fingers
Hidden 06/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
markalmack 06/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Lead p1

Adam Booth 03/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome route, what a battle up the first crack!

with Simon Palmer
simeclimb68 03/Mar/13 AltLd rpt
with Adam Booth
Owain Llewelyn 20/Oct/12 AltLd
with Gareth E
Ewan Russell 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Halla
wi11 31/Aug/12 2nd dog
with Ben
Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead
Sophie Nunn 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Only 2nd pitch as 1st was wet so combined with Creahg Dhu 1st pitch

with Ant, Ben
PAJames ??/2012 -
Owain Llewelyn ??/2012 AltLd
with Gareth E
AdrianP 30/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Olli
dan ely 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with tony (army)
kdalzell 19/Jun/11 2nd
Liam FLeming 19/Jun/11 -

short pumpy first pitch techy second pitch very good route

with karen dalzell
david morse 09/May/11 AltLd O/S

A brilliant route. Another Tremadog classic that feels hard for the grade!

with Glyn+Alex (Romania)
Glyn 09/May/11 Lead dog

Came on to rain just as I got to the top of the 1st pitch. Foot slipped on a wet hold. Amazing route, both pitches are defiantly some of the best in the area

nige 03/Apr/11 AltLd
with mark hounslea
nicolat ?/Apr/11 AltLd
geoff b 27/Mar/11 2nd
pete johnson 27/Mar/11 -
Tommy Cole 08/Mar/11 2nd

Nails first pitch! Good fun seconding!

with Alex Mason
Alex Mason 08/Mar/11 Lead β

My favourite E2 in Wales. Two superb, contrasting pitches. The upper corner does everything you could ask of it.

Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Sandy Simpson 11/Aug/10 -


with Ross Hewitt
Luke Brooks 16/May/10 AltLd
with Barni
barni 16/May/10 AltLd O/S


with luke
wolf.leeb 13/May/10 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

mynyddresident 13/May/10 AltLd

Well protected 1st pitch but very awkward. A slight sting in the tail aswell. 2nd pitch much easier but techy.

Hidden 01/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/May/10 AltLd O/S
phil64 ?/May/10 Lead rpt
simonp ?/May/10 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Hidden 20/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
soph 01/Jan/10 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
mr mills ??/2010 -
with paul simkiss
Hidden ??/2010 -
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
Hidden 21/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/09 AltLd dog
Hidden 20/Jun/09 AltLd dog
Tim W 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

First pitch DR, Second pitch TW

dan gibson 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with chris
Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead
cavemancolumbus ?/Mar/09 2nd dog

My first E2. I now know that i can't climb E2. Yet

with dan
Hidden 28/Sep/08 AltLd
Marcus ??/2008 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
jake-jones ?/Dec/07 Lead O/S

Only climbed P1.

with Juha
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2007 AltLd
with James Marjot
Mark Stevenson 29/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with Rich Mayfield
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
spidey 21/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
Ian Jones ??/2004 Lead O/S

Superb. Pitch 1 is easy!

with Karen Ghiselli
goi.ashmore 14/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Hidden 22/Feb/03 Lead
simon kimber ??/2002 2nd
with Tony Penning
Simonfarfaraway ??/2002 AltLd
with Dave A
shoulders 23/Jul/01 Lead
with dai
Rich Kirby 30/Apr/00 AltLd O/S
with Hugh
WB 19/Oct/99 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden ?/Jun/97 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd O/S
crossleysm ?/Apr/96 -
Hidden 21/May/95 Lead O/S
michael burrows 14/May/95 AltLd rpt

lead 2nd pitch

with brian jones
frost ?/May/95 AltLd
with J Turner
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Bullybones ??/1995 -
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
pete johnson 20/Mar/94 Lead
with Steve Findlay
tmawer 28/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden 03/May/93 AltLd
Hamish Leslie ??/1993 AltLd O/S

Great route

with Ste Lawler
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Derek Ryden ?/Jun/91 Lead
with Niel
Nick Biven 03/May/91 Lead
with Ian Sherrington
nigehughes ?/Jun/90 AltLd
with Nick Sharpe
Hidden 07/May/90 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1990 AltLd
with FMC
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
surfbish ?/Mar/88 Lead O/S
Neil R 25/Jul/87 AltLd
with Richard W
wynaptomos ?/Aug/86 AltLd O/S
Bruce Kerr 23/Oct/85 Lead
with Bill Wilson
Hammy 13/Jun/85 AltLd
with Colin Struthers
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1985 AltLd
with Bill Williamson
rob.grafton ??/1985 2nd dnf
with Matthew Bransby
Seymore Butt ??/1985 AltLd
with Spuz
TonyF ?/Aug/84 Lead O/S
with Tony Cox
Mark Kemball 17/Jun/84 AltLd
nicmac 17/Jun/84 AltLd
Hidden 21/Apr/84 AltLd
Melok ??/1984 -
Melok ??/1984 -
Steve Lewis 26/Jun/83 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle, Alun Richardson
Hidden 23/Apr/83 AltLd
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
uphillnow 19/Sep/82 AltLd O/S

Did pitch 1 and 2

with Dave Booth
Hidden 13/Jul/82 AltLd
Rob Davies ??/1982 Lead dnf

Date? Arms faded part way up P1. Did part of Creag Dhu Wall to retrieve gear.

with Angus McLean
Hidden 19/Jan/80 Lead
daviesxxx ??/1980 -
Mike Owen 12/Dec/76 Lead O/S
with John Roberts
petemeads ??/1976 AltLd
Falko 22/Mar/75 Lead O/S
with Al W.
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
Sean Kelly ?/Sep/73 -
with Bob Millward
rockofades ??/1973 AltLd
with MC
mikej 17/Apr/67 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 36
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set