Rockfax Description
Quality and varied crack-and-groove work. Start up the steep groove on the left-hand side of the central bay of the cliff.
1) 5c, 30m. Climb the groove then move left to a flake. The continuation crack is good value and needs a determined approach, as does the exit. Move left to a belay on Creagh Dhu Wall's beefy tree.
2) 5c, 24m. The long groove is technical, sustained and well protected to a leftwards exit - more full-on climbing. © Rockfax

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North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Tremadog 2018/2019, UK Holiday Plans, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Definitive *** Tremadog

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 20 May AltLd dog
BC 20 May AltLd Went the wrong way about climbing p1 and powered myself out I think (punter, should've gurn'd more). P2 more to my style and felt super good and fun. A few foot slips but kept it going. Psyched!
Went the wrong way about climbing p1 and powered myself out I think (punter, should've gurn'd more). P2 more to my style and felt super good and fun. A few foot slips but kept it going. Psyched!
benrhyd 11 May AltLd Dad led 1st pitch, i led second, fantastic all the way, very sustained and thoughtful moves all the way right to the top of the groove
Dad led 1st pitch, i led second, fantastic all the way, very sustained and thoughtful moves all the way right to the top of the groove
Adam John Haynes 10 May AltLd rpt Infuriatingly I didn't find the jug at the top of the crack. Consequently slumped on the rope. No problem once the correct holds were found and employed.
with benrhyd
Infuriatingly I didn't find the jug at the top of the crack. Consequently slumped on the rope. No problem once the correct holds were found and employed.
with benrhyd
ian bryant 31 Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
seb b 8 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Don't fall onto the tree!
with Tim
Don't fall onto the tree!
with Tim
Hidden 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd
DubyaJamesDubya 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Great route.
with Blake
Great route.
with Blake
Kipper-Phil Smith 18 Jul, 2018 Lead Total class ! The top pitch is one of the best pitches at Tremadog. All the moves appear improbable but somehow it all works and maintain interest all the way.
with Shaun
Total class ! The top pitch is one of the best pitches at Tremadog. All the moves appear improbable but somehow it all works and maintain interest all the way.
with Shaun
Hidden 30 May, 2018 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2018 -
George_Surf 4 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S P1 is a sustained overhanging jamming crack. Mega safe once you start, top rope all the way and couple of awkward rests. P2 is difficult and very thin up the first half of the corner to the peg, hidden holds in the corner were overgrown and a bit wet. Hard and totally different pitches!
P1 is a sustained overhanging jamming crack. Mega safe once you start, top rope all the way and couple of awkward rests. P2 is difficult and very thin up the first half of the corner to the peg, hidden holds in the corner were overgrown and a bit wet. Hard and totally different pitches!
Pinguville 4 Aug, 2017 2nd the sustained overhanging jamming crack was hard and awkward , but with some rests , very pumpy tho . P2 looked easier ...but alas it was also difficult, weird thin laybacks , finger jams , mega bridging and nothing for your feet , exciting ... Hard and totally different pitches!
the sustained overhanging jamming crack was hard and awkward , but with some rests , very pumpy tho . P2 looked easier ...but alas it was also difficult, weird thin laybacks , finger jams , mega bridging and nothing for your feet , exciting ... Hard and totally different pitches!
bwestwood 1 Aug, 2017 AltLd
pie_eater_pete 1 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with bwestwood
with bwestwood
Phil4000 1 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Led both pitches, nightmare last move on pitch 1. Only just stayed on, pitch 2 v good.
with Percy
Led both pitches, nightmare last move on pitch 1. Only just stayed on, pitch 2 v good.
with Percy
alexm198 1 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Hard work! The crack on P1 looks innocuous enough from below but the lack of footholds on the face mean that you have to contort yourself into the crack, making it feel much more strenuous than it appears. Thankfully the gear is excellent. Exiting the crack is very perplexing - I ended up grasping as much heather as I could wrap my hands around to yard over the lip! P2 is a complete contrast; thin, delicate, super technical climbing in the groove. Started to rain as Jack set off up P2 so by the time I followed it was pretty slick. Thankfully the groove stayed largely dry but the easy climbing at the top felt very sketchy. Led P1.
with JackM92
Hard work! The crack on P1 looks innocuous enough from below but the lack of footholds on the face mean that you have to contort yourself into the crack, making it feel much more strenuous than it appears. Thankfully the gear is excellent. Exiting the crack is very perplexing - I ended up grasping as much heather as I could wrap my hands around to yard over the lip! P2 is a complete contrast; thin, delicate, super technical climbing in the groove. Started to rain as Jack set off up P2 so by the time I followed it was pretty slick. Thankfully the groove stayed largely dry but the easy climbing at the top felt very sketchy. Led P1.
with JackM92
gripped01 1 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
JackM92 1 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Class route. Top move on P1 easier with the heather and the groove on P2 superbly technical.
Class route. Top move on P1 easier with the heather and the groove on P2 superbly technical.
Hidden 30 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Jun, 2017 2nd
KKilroy ?Apr, 2017 Lead dog Briars wetness and great fun. Harrddd
with claire
Briars wetness and great fun. Harrddd
with claire
The old James turnbull 24 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
with aiden
with aiden
Marti999 12 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Great Brown route a fight all the way.
Great Brown route a fight all the way.
Hidden 21 Sep, 2016 AltLd dnf
khalidq 21 Sep, 2016 AltLd dog Tried to lead pitch 1. I used every gram of effort but still had to rest then fell off near the top too. Finished up Craig Du in the rain.
Tried to lead pitch 1. I used every gram of effort but still had to rest then fell off near the top too. Finished up Craig Du in the rain.
Rollo 18 Aug, 2016 2nd dog One rest on P1 which was BRUTAL!! P2 clean, very nice technical climbing.
One rest on P1 which was BRUTAL!! P2 clean, very nice technical climbing.
mikeyjbs 18 Aug, 2016 Lead dog
with Rollo
with Rollo
jsmcfarland ?Aug, 2016 Lead dog Did P1 clean, which felt amazing as cracks aren't my specialty. With the correct beta the crux is miles easier than it could be, and there is a great knee bar just afterwards. I had to rest just after the pod foothold on P2 and then a little higher up. P2 is totally nails, borderline E3 just for effort I reckon, though the blistering heat probably played a large part there. Definitely will come back for this, great route.
with Robert
Did P1 clean, which felt amazing as cracks aren't my specialty. With the correct beta the crux is miles easier than it could be, and there is a great knee bar just afterwards. I had to rest just after the pod foothold on P2 and then a little higher up. P2 is totally nails, borderline E3 just for effort I reckon, though the blistering heat probably played a large part there. Definitely will come back for this, great route.
with Robert
joedean 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd
James-m-h 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S First pitch was soaking and hard had to aid up the last bit top pitch was beautiful rested a few times but did it clean brilliant route
with joedean
First pitch was soaking and hard had to aid up the last bit top pitch was beautiful rested a few times but did it clean brilliant route
with joedean
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
spidermonkey09 14 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S P1. Hate jamming cracks so was pretty psyched with this. Amazing kneebar halfway up. The real crux is the final mantel!
P1. Hate jamming cracks so was pretty psyched with this. Amazing kneebar halfway up. The real crux is the final mantel!
Hidden 14 Sep, 2015 AltLd G/U
robpartridge 6 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Tom Nichols
with Tom Nichols
jimxxx 5 Sep, 2015 AltLd dog
KeenClimber 5 Sep, 2015 AltLd Lead P2
with jimxxx
Lead P2
with jimxxx
jimxxx 29 Aug, 2015 AltLd dog Rested before the last moves at the top of the first pitch as knackered . Chris did a great job on the second pitch and had a small fall at the start where it was a bit tricky .rest of the pitch felt tough as well .
Rested before the last moves at the top of the first pitch as knackered . Chris did a great job on the second pitch and had a small fall at the start where it was a bit tricky .rest of the pitch felt tough as well .
Hidden 24 Aug, 2015 -
Hidden 15 Aug, 2015 AltLd
cem 14 Jun, 2015 AltLd dnf I led p1 (albeit it with the assistance of some heather when topping out) but neither of us could do p2 so, after a bit of dangling and a lot of swearing on my part, we gave up and did p2 of Creagh Dhu Wall instead.
with Kirill
I led p1 (albeit it with the assistance of some heather when topping out) but neither of us could do p2 so, after a bit of dangling and a lot of swearing on my part, we gave up and did p2 of Creagh Dhu Wall instead.
with Kirill
Kirill 14 Jun, 2015 2nd dnf After having a close look at P2, I was quick to bail. Charles had a few goes at it but gave up too. Escaped via the top pitch of Creagh Ddu Wall.
with cem
After having a close look at P2, I was quick to bail. Charles had a few goes at it but gave up too. Escaped via the top pitch of Creagh Ddu Wall.
with cem
paul79 7 Jun, 2015 2nd dog
soph 23 May, 2015 AltLd rpt
with Helena Robinson
with Helena Robinson
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 AltLd
Calgrant11235 ?Nov, 2014 2nd Done first pitch then sacked it cause it was getting dark
Done first pitch then sacked it cause it was getting dark
kyaizawa 12 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S Lead both pitches. Great route and athletic moves, but tricky and hard work, as can be expected of a JB route!!
with mmason1
Lead both pitches. Great route and athletic moves, but tricky and hard work, as can be expected of a JB route!!
with mmason1
eduardo 20 Sep, 2014 2nd dog
with Misha
with Misha
Misha 20 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Quality! The ''overhanging crack" on P1 isn't really overhanging, it's just an awkwardly leaning jamming groove. That was fine until the top out, which was desperate! The finishing hold was a sloper which was covered in dirt and not very positive. Climbed down a bit to place a cam for confidence as had run it out a bit (take a cam 3), back up but still looked hard and not an easy position to hang around in, so pulled on a heather bush with one hand to get a foot up, desperate deeds! The second pitch looks easy but it's anything but, really good technical bridging and weirdness. Led both.
with eduardo
Quality! The ''overhanging crack" on P1 isn't really overhanging, it's just an awkwardly leaning jamming groove. That was fine until the top out, which was desperate! The finishing hold was a sloper which was covered in dirt and not very positive. Climbed down a bit to place a cam for confidence as had run it out a bit (take a cam 3), back up but still looked hard and not an easy position to hang around in, so pulled on a heather bush with one hand to get a foot up, desperate deeds! The second pitch looks easy but it's anything but, really good technical bridging and weirdness. Led both.
with eduardo
dswansonlow 31 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S The first pitch felt easier than I expected (still tricky though) but the last move mantling out of the crack nearly had me off. Led second pitch as well which was superb!
with Harry Wickham
The first pitch felt easier than I expected (still tricky though) but the last move mantling out of the crack nearly had me off. Led second pitch as well which was superb!
with Harry Wickham
Hidden 4 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
Dan Vaj 26 Mar, 2014 2nd dog
with James McHaffie
with James McHaffie
IanGilbertJones ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 2nd
with Dave Woodcock
with Dave Woodcock
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Bob ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Hidden 11 Oct, 2013 AltLd rpt
Mark Warnett ?May, 2013 Lead O/S 1st pitch only, required some beans
with Jim Duthie
1st pitch only, required some beans
with Jim Duthie
khawk 20 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
with datoon
with datoon
Duncan Campbell 7 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S led p2. Both pitches felt of similar difficulty, the first was thrutchy and strenuous, the second technical goodness! Sustained all the way. ***
with Fingers
led p2. Both pitches felt of similar difficulty, the first was thrutchy and strenuous, the second technical goodness! Sustained all the way. ***
with Fingers
Hidden 6 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
markalmack 6 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead p1
with ctodd
Lead p1
with ctodd
Adam Booth 3 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S Awesome route, what a battle up the first crack!
with Simon Palmer
Awesome route, what a battle up the first crack!
with Simon Palmer
simeclimb68 3 Mar, 2013 AltLd rpt
with Adam Booth
with Adam Booth
Owain Llewelyn 20 Oct, 2012 AltLd
with Gareth E
with Gareth E
Ewan Russell 22 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with Halla
with Halla
wi11 31 Aug, 2012 2nd dog
MikePycroft 22 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Strugle on first pitch hard to get jam at top. Led top pitch wet in places good value
with Elfyn
Strugle on first pitch hard to get jam at top. Led top pitch wet in places good value
with Elfyn
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 Lead
Sophie Nunn 10 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S Only 2nd pitch as 1st was wet so combined with Creahg Dhu 1st pitch
with Ant, Ben Harper
Only 2nd pitch as 1st was wet so combined with Creahg Dhu 1st pitch
with Ant, Ben Harper
PAJames ??, 2012 -
Owain Llewelyn ??, 2012 AltLd
with Gareth E
with Gareth E
AdrianP 30 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Olli
with Olli
dan ely 24 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with tony (army)
with tony (army)
kdalzell 19 Jun, 2011 2nd
Liam FLeming 19 Jun, 2011 - short pumpy first pitch techy second pitch very good route
with karen dalzell
short pumpy first pitch techy second pitch very good route
with karen dalzell
david morse 9 May, 2011 AltLd O/S A brilliant route. Another Tremadog classic that feels hard for the grade!
with Glyn+Alex (Romania)
A brilliant route. Another Tremadog classic that feels hard for the grade!
with Glyn+Alex (Romania)
Glyn 9 May, 2011 Lead dog Came on to rain just as I got to the top of the 1st pitch. Foot slipped on a wet hold. Amazing route, both pitches are defiantly some of the best in the area
Came on to rain just as I got to the top of the 1st pitch. Foot slipped on a wet hold. Amazing route, both pitches are defiantly some of the best in the area
nige 3 Apr, 2011 AltLd
with mark hounslea
with mark hounslea
nicolat ?Apr, 2011 AltLd
geoff b 27 Mar, 2011 2nd
pete johnson 27 Mar, 2011 -
with geoff b
with geoff b
Tommy Cole 8 Mar, 2011 2nd Nails first pitch! Good fun seconding!
with Alex Mason
Nails first pitch! Good fun seconding!
with Alex Mason
Alex Mason 8 Mar, 2011 Lead β My favourite E2 in Wales. Two superb, contrasting pitches. The upper corner does everything you could ask of it.
My favourite E2 in Wales. Two superb, contrasting pitches. The upper corner does everything you could ask of it.
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Sandy Simpson 11 Aug, 2010 - nails
with Ross Hewitt
nails
with Ross Hewitt
Luke Brooks 16 May, 2010 AltLd
with barni
with barni
barni 16 May, 2010 AltLd O/S 2nd
2nd
wolf.leeb 13 May, 2010 AltLd O/S 2nd pitch
2nd pitch
mynyddresident 13 May, 2010 AltLd Well protected 1st pitch but very awkward. A slight sting in the tail aswell. 2nd pitch much easier but techy.
Well protected 1st pitch but very awkward. A slight sting in the tail aswell. 2nd pitch much easier but techy.
chris m fisher 1 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Dan M
with Dan M
Hidden 1 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
phil64 ?May, 2010 Lead rpt
simonp ?May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Hidden 20 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
soph 1 Jan, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
mr mills ??, 2010 -
with paul simkiss
with paul simkiss
Hidden ??, 2010 -
simeclimb68 ??, 2010 -
Hidden 21 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Aug, 2009 AltLd dog
Hidden 20 Jun, 2009 AltLd dog
Tim W 20 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S First pitch DR, Second pitch TW
First pitch DR, Second pitch TW
dan gibson 14 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with chris
with chris
Hidden 1 Mar, 2009 Lead
cavemancolumbus ?Mar, 2009 2nd dog My first E2. I now know that i can't climb E2. Yet
My first E2. I now know that i can't climb E2. Yet
Hidden 28 Sep, 2008 AltLd
Marcus ??, 2008 -
Matt Vigg ??, 2008 -
Matt Vigg ??, 2008 -
jake-jones ?Dec, 2007 Lead O/S Only climbed P1.
with Juha
Only climbed P1.
with Juha
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2007 AltLd
with James Marjot
with James Marjot
Mark Stevenson 29 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Rich Mayfield
with Rich Mayfield
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
spidey 21 Jun, 2004 AltLd O/S
Ian Jones ??, 2004 Lead O/S Superb. Pitch 1 is easy!
with Karen Ghiselli
Superb. Pitch 1 is easy!
with Karen Ghiselli
goi.ashmore 14 Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
with Roy Thomas
Hidden 22 Feb, 2003 Lead
simon kimber ??, 2002 2nd
with Tony Penning
with Tony Penning
Simonfarfaraway ??, 2002 AltLd
with Dave A
with Dave A
shoulders 23 Jul, 2001 Lead
with dai
with dai
Rich Kirby 30 Apr, 2000 AltLd O/S
WB 19 Oct, 1999 Lead O/S
with Paul
with Paul
Hidden ?Jun, 1997 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 1997 AltLd O/S
crossleysm ?Apr, 1996 -
Hidden 21 May, 1995 Lead O/S
michael burrows 14 May, 1995 AltLd rpt lead 2nd pitch
with brian jones
lead 2nd pitch
with brian jones
frost ?May, 1995 AltLd
with J Turner
with J Turner
Neil McA 15 Apr, 1995 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1.
with Clive Davis, Andy Perkins
Led pitch 1.
with Clive Davis, Andy Perkins
ianabbot ??, 1995 Lead O/S
Ched ??, 1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1995 -
pete johnson 20 Mar, 1994 Lead
with Steve Findlay
with Steve Findlay
NickJH ?Nov, 1993 AltLd
with JThomas
with JThomas
tmawer 28 Jul, 1993 Lead O/S
with Andy
with Andy
Hidden 3 May, 1993 AltLd
Hidden 2 May, 1993 Lead
Hamish Leslie ??, 1993 AltLd O/S Great route
with Ste Lawler
Great route
with Ste Lawler
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead
clanger ??, 1993 -
with Dave Walsh
with Dave Walsh
Derek Ryden ?Jun, 1991 Lead
with Niel
with Niel
Nick Biven 3 May, 1991 Lead
with Ian Sherrington
with Ian Sherrington
nigehughes ?Jun, 1990 AltLd
with Nick Sharpe
with Nick Sharpe
Hidden 7 May, 1990 Lead
Hidden ??, 1990 AltLd
andy gittins ??, 1990 Lead
Hidden 29 Aug, 1988 Lead
surfbish ?Mar, 1988 Lead O/S
Neil R 25 Jul, 1987 AltLd
with Richard W
with Richard W
wynaptomos ?Aug, 1986 AltLd O/S
Bruce Kerr 23 Oct, 1985 Lead
with Bill Wilson
with Bill Wilson
Hammy 13 Jun, 1985 AltLd
with Colin Struthers
with Colin Struthers
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??, 1985 AltLd
with Bill Williamson
with Bill Williamson
rob.grafton ??, 1985 2nd dnf
with Matthew Bransby
with Matthew Bransby
Seymore Butt ??, 1985 AltLd
with Spuz
with Spuz
Hidden ?Aug, 1984 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 17 Jun, 1984 AltLd
with nicmac
with nicmac
nicmac 17 Jun, 1984 AltLd
Rick51 5 Jun, 1984 AltLd 5.8.73 2pa
5.8.73 2pa
Hidden 21 Apr, 1984 AltLd
Steve Clegg 7 Apr, 1984 -
Melok ??, 1984 -
Melok ??, 1984 -
Steve Lewis 26 Jun, 1983 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle, Alun Richardson
with Clive Curle, Alun Richardson
Hidden 23 Apr, 1983 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1983 Lead
uphillnow 19 Sep, 1982 AltLd O/S Did pitch 1 and 2
with Dave Booth
Did pitch 1 and 2
with Dave Booth
Hidden 13 Jul, 1982 AltLd
Rob Davies ??, 1982 Lead dnf Date? Arms faded part way up P1. Did part of Creag Dhu Wall to retrieve gear.
with Angus McLean
Date? Arms faded part way up P1. Did part of Creag Dhu Wall to retrieve gear.
with Angus McLean
cenotaphcorner 3 May, 1980 AltLd O/S
with David Stainthorpe
with David Stainthorpe
Hidden 19 Jan, 1980 Lead
daviesxxx ??, 1980 -
Hidden 26 Jul, 1977 AltLd O/S
Mike Owen 12 Dec, 1976 Lead O/S
with John Roberts
with John Roberts
petemeads ??, 1976 AltLd
Falko 22 Mar, 1975 Lead O/S
with Al W.
with Al W.
granitbahn ??, 1975 AltLd
Sean Kelly ?Sep, 1973 -
with Bob Millward
with Bob Millward
rockofades ??, 1973 AltLd
with MC
with MC
mikej 17 Apr, 1967 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
with Geoff Williams
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 40
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set