Rockfax Description
A stunning top pitch makes this route what it is. Sustained with a hard pull through the final roof on the second pitch. Start at the foot of a slab below a large roof.
1) 4b, 28m. Climb up the slab just to the right of the tree that dominates the central grove. Near the top, traverse right under the roof to gain a ledge above and right.
2) 6a, 25m. Move down to a traverse line above the lip of the roof. Follow this until you can step up to the next roof and scuttle sideways to below a prominent groove. Move up the groove to a small niche and move up and right (possible peg?) to the final roof. A stiff pull through this is rewarded by a very large jug and a great degree of relief. Follow the groove above to the ledge and belay.
3) 4b, 10m. Move up and left from the belay on rock with amazing friction, then trend up and left to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This route was traditionally aided, hence grades of HVS in some guidebooks. Nowadays the approaches to the aid section (pitch 2) are very polished, adding to the difficulty. If you want to do without the aid, then be warned that 'grade' is very reach-dependent, probably 6a on average. If you aid it, then check the condition of the pegs, but note that you can get wires in just above them. After the crux, the route degenerates into unsatisfying scrambling. This route goes through sensational territory, but I find it hard to recommend it.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
bwestwood 01/Aug AltLd
pie_eater_pete 01/Aug AltLd O/S
with bwestwood
Sardien 16/Apr/16 2nd dog

Couldnt work out the crux, took a few goes then it went once I sorted my feet out better.

Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hannes B 17/Sep/15 Lead dog

Not a good warm up then :)

with Neil C
robpartridge 06/Sep/15 AltLd
with Tom Nichols
Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 27/Jun/15 2nd dog
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead dog
shaunhumphreys 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

P2 such a good route!! wasnt expexcting to get to the top at all which made it seem a whole lot better!

benkelsey 21/Jun/15 AltLd dog

spent ages trying to get the nut out in the roof til I realised it wasn't shauns then didn't have the power for the crux. good lead from Shaun though with the leaders will!! 3 *'s

with Shaun Humphreys
Hidden ??/2015 -
mike mo ??/2015 -
mike mo ??/2015 -
mike mo ??/2015 -
mike mo ??/2015 -
mike mo ??/2015 -
jcw ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 Lead dog
mike mo ??/2015 -
dswansonlow 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Easy route except for the roof, which took a couple of up and downs to figure out super safe with small cams.

with Harry Wickham
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/14 AltLd dog
maybe_si 01/May/14 AltLd O/S
Dan Vaj 26/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with James McHaffie
Bob ??/2014 -
BenRyle 09/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Aided. To unfit

with Dan, Dan Ely
Dan724 09/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Quite blind but not too bad once you commit to pulling past the overhang (led pitch 2/crux).

smallerrich 02/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1, seconding is a nightmare trying to get quickdraws outve pegs!

stephheeley 30/Jul/13 2nd dnf
khawk 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with DT
Duncan Campbell 07/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Led p2. Didn't really want to do it as I thought I'd be spat off but once into the crux I was immersed and loving it. Hardest move for me was clipping the top peg, over the lip crimp your way up some crozzles and dyno for the jug! Awesome climbing. definate 2 stars! Steady for 6a too, I reckon, and I'm a shorty.

with Fingers
markalmack 06/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Lead p2

Hidden 06/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
greenclimb ?/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Sarah
willoates 28/Feb/13 AltLd

Well happy to do this, it has been on the list ever since seeing the pic of Joe Brown, smoking a fag whilstclimbing the route, in the PYB reception.

with Luke
Luke Brooks 28/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Will
Alex Mason 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Hard crux. Nice hot day for Feb.

with Nat White
PAJames ??/2013 -
JonnoP 28/Jul/12 AltLd
with Chad
Chad123 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Really enjoyed this one, the guy who wrote the description above obviously had a bad time on the crux! Lovely moves all the way on perfect rock lead to a memorable bouldery crux over the top roof. Only shame is that it's a bit unbalanced being mostly 5a/b then one 6a move, but classic route all the same, worth three stars....

with JonnoP
david morse 26/Aug/11 AltLd RP

One lob trying to get my feet over the roof...pulled ropes and dispatched. Exciting air time!

with lole
givemetea 23/Jul/11 AltLd dog

Led P1 - very easy. Didn't quite have enough burl to make it over the final roof on P2.

with Vince
3 Names 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Roz lead pitch 1, I lead pitch 2

Liam FLeming 26/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
phil64 ?/May/10 Lead rpt

no peg now!

Glyn 11/Apr/10 Lead β

Great climb. Ignore the comments above regarding the quality of the route. It is hardly polished at all. The crux is quite hard and reachy but is super well protected with small cams under the roof. The climbing leading up to the roof is also of top quality.

davefount 11/Apr/10 2nd dog
with Glyn
Hidden ??/2010 -
mr mills ??/2010 -
with paul simkiss
mattyork2 10/May/09 Lead O/S

As inspired by 'The Master' at work in the black and white photo in Oggy Cot. dinning room

with Pete Harrison
Owain Llewelyn 04/Jul/08 Lead
with Dad
Marcus ??/2008 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Brown 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Neil
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian Jones ??/2004 Lead O/S

Easy but superb.

with Karen Ghiselli
Hidden 15/Sep/02 Lead
Nigel Coe 15/Sep/02 2nd dog
Simonfarfaraway ??/2002 AltLd
with Dave A
Roget 13/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with baccy
WB 14/Jun/00 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Rich Kirby 30/Apr/00 AltLd O/S
with Hugh
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Feb/98 2nd
Hidden 26/Oct/97 AltLd
crossleysm ?/Apr/96 -
Hidden ??/1996 2nd
Hidden 21/May/95 Lead O/S
michael burrows 14/May/95 AltLd dog

1 fall

with brian jones
frost ?/May/95 2nd
with J Turner
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
rob.grafton ??/1995 -
with Ben
wynaptomos ?/Jul/94 Lead O/S
Budge ??/1994 Lead dnf

Fail to free it had to aid it

with Ceri Jones
tmawer 28/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Andy
Nick Biven 03/May/91 Lead
with Ian Sherrington
mark-abz 08/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with Andy W
Hidden 07/May/90 2nd
Paul Clarke ??/1990 AltLd
with FMC
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
Hidden 06/Apr/88 2nd
Hidden 04/Jul/87 Lead dog
Eduardo Martinez 07/May/87 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1987 -
Dave Musgrove 16/Aug/86 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1985 AltLd
with Bill Williamson
Bulls Crack ??/1985 Lead O/S
with RW
TonyF ?/Aug/84 Lead O/S
with Tony Cox
Hidden 29/Apr/84 AltLd
Hidden 21/Apr/84 Lead
keefe 17/Apr/84 -
Melok ??/1984 -
Melok ??/1984 -
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
steveboote ??/1982 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/81 Lead O/S
Hammy 22/Feb/81 2nd
with Rob Lawson
daviesxxx ??/1980 Lead
Mike Owen 05/May/79 Lead rpt
with Elaine Watson
petemeads ?/Aug/78 Lead

Early free ascent, not a brilliant climb (not as good as Pellagra).

with Steve Taylor
Hidden 15/May/78 AltLd
Derek Ryden ??/1978 AltLd O/S

one peg aid on overhang

with Pete Thexton
Mike Owen 06/Nov/77 Lead rpt
with John Roberts
Mark Kemball 30/Jul/77 Lead

Used both pegs for aid.

with Paul Clark
Rob Davies 05/Jun/77 AltLd

With peg for aid that was usual usual back then

Mike Owen 12/May/77 2nd rpt

Free.

with Sandy Doby
Steve Lewis 22/Jan/77 Lead O/S
with sharpie
Mike Owen 12/Dec/76 Lead dog

2 points of aid on the roof.

with John Roberts
Bolt Phobia ??/1976 2nd
with John Brailsford
Falko 02/Mar/75 Lead O/S
with Al W.
uphillnow ??/1975 AltLd

Steve led the crux, led later several times including 19/9/1992

with Steve Foster
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
rockofades ??/1973 Lead
with MC
jon 07/May/72 AltLd
with phil r
Martin Bennett 27/Apr/72 -
with RA
eroica64 07/Oct/70 AltLd

Ian led hard pitch (2). Brilliant, great climb. We did it using peg so HVS 5b grade

with Ian Napier
mikej 06/Feb/70 AltLd

Pete climbed the overhang free.

with Pete Boardman
Seymore Butt ??/1970 -
mikej 17/Apr/67 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 26
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set