Rockfax Description
14m. Gain the hanging rib direct (chipped holds) and climb to the break. The upper arete feels bold, especially as the top approaches and the runners recede. Not bad for its day. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Classic and underrated - quintessential grit climbing with steady smearing but a massive runout from good gear in the break. A bit like a mirror image of Back Bowden's "On The Verge" - the possible escape of jumping left would not be recommended.

Gordon W 07/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Pretty much what everyone says, fairly steady, but the runners feel a long way away

Ben Costello 07/Jul/17 2nd O/S
Jono_LS16 01/Jul/17 Solo O/S
bencole 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Pretty steady moves once you commit. It's all in the head. :-) Gear in the break is good enough but you wouldn't want to take the fall. Felt more like E2 too me, but only once you've topped out.

Ben C ??/2017 2nd
Will Hunt 06/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Have wanted to get round to doing this for ages. Quite disappointed at how the top of Sinister Cracks comes so easily into reach for the top move. Really ruins the line. Thought it fair at E3.

with Andy May
JamesTurnbull97 11/Mar/16 Lead β

Dave TR'ed it and turn out it wasn't to dirty so went for it. Really enjoyed smearing and padding up the arete.

Dave Turnbull 11/Mar/16 TR
OllieF 19/Sep/14 Lead RP

First E3 :) scary run out from the break to the top! Top roped it clean before leading.

emmswhit 19/Sep/14 TR
adamwesthead 04/May/14 TR rpt


adamwesthead 02/May/14 TR O/S


Lloyders ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Pete
dazwan 28/Aug/13 2nd
with Paul S
pastep 28/Aug/13 Lead
with dazwan
Will242 28/Aug/13 2nd
ebf 28/Aug/13 Lead
BnB 30/Jul/13 -
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
jshields 05/May/13 Lead
with Jonathan Harrison, Ed James
lcullum7 05/May/13 2nd O/S
kyaizawa 05/May/13 Lead O/S

Soft for the grade..?? Not got a lot to compare it to, but didn't feel like 5b. Got some helpful gear info/encouragement from the guys who climbed it before me (thanks a lot!!), but did the moves o/s.

Adam Coles 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with ben1987
ben1987 02/Mar/13 2nd O/S
robertmctague ??/2013 Lead O/S
BeckyPayne 18/Jun/12 TR O/S
with David D'Arcy, Adam Collinge
Will242 23/May/12 TR O/S
with pastep
pastep 23/May/12 TR
with Will242
pastep 15/Apr/12 TR
with ebf
ebf 15/Apr/12 TR O/S

It's been a couple of years, so decided to top rope it on the way back from Gordale. Easy peasy. It's not really E3...! E2/5b would be fairer. Will lead next time I'm there.

Sean_J 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Where was that awkward top step the guide mentioned?! Over faster than you'd imagine if you just get on with it once you've laced the break.

with Robin
hellorichie 29/Jun/10 TR
ebf 28/Apr/10 Lead RP
pastep 28/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with ebf
Hidden 23/Apr/10 TR
Flash29 20/Sep/09 Lead β
with berrie
PaulHermes 19/Aug/09 2nd
with Rich
ebf 19/Aug/09 Lead RP

Easy for E3 with delightful smearing up a very easy angled slab (for the grade!) with the arete always handy for keeping you in balance. Good small friends (2 x #1 and 1 x #0) at the 1/3 height break will allow you to make the first moves up the slab and get completely committed for the top moves. Most worrying part is that you'd fall into the gully next to you, full of sharp rocks.

pastep 19/Aug/09 2nd
with ebf
Hidden 02/Jul/09 TR O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/07 -
Hidden 20/Jun/07 Lead O/S
alaan 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Eurydice
Hidden ??/2006 Lead RP
John_Hat 27/Aug/05 Lead RP
with Andy
Hidden ?/Mar/04 Solo
Hidden 21/Feb/04 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Feb/04 TR O/S
chrishedgehog 26/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Drew
nige 28/Sep/02 Lead
with john buckley
Andy Say 21/Jun/96 Solo
Dave Musgrove 21/Mar/94 2nd rpt
with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 21/Mar/94 Lead
with Dad
Rich Kirby 17/Jun/92 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1992 -
crossleysm ??/1991 Solo
Hidden 01/Jul/89 TR O/S
goi.ashmore 22/Aug/88 Solo O/S
Neil McA 28/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Mark Wilson
rob.grafton ??/1987 AltLd
with barry maybank
charlesmfrench ?/Nov/78 2nd O/S
with Keith Milne, Ian Milne
Chris Ellis 22/Oct/78 TR
with Patrick Meeds
GeoffG 12/Oct/77 2nd
with tony bowker
Dave Musgrove 08/Jul/76 Lead
Howard Dixon ??/1971 Lead
with Martin Dixon
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High E4
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High 5c
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High 5a
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Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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