Rockfax Description
A tricky route with only just enough gear in the lower reaches. Start just left of a slim groove that leads up to a small roof at 12m. Whilst you can climb direct it feels safer to climb the easier line to the left and step back right into the groove at about 6m. Turn the roof and you are rewarded with a series of ledges leading up to Rufus. Up and left is a tower with a crack in its front. Move up to the tower and swing left to climb the crack. Above the tower further balancy climbing is required to get to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Alex's Wales ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
wynaptomos 4 Jul Lead rpt
with Cefin
with Cefin
pete johnson 4 Jul 2nd rpt
with Elfyn
with Elfyn
Andy Moles 27 Jun Lead Weird spread of grade opinion on this, people must take different lines. I thought it was straightforward and safe, E1. Very enjoyable.
with Misha
Weird spread of grade opinion on this, people must take different lines. I thought it was straightforward and safe, E1. Very enjoyable.
with Misha
Misha 27 Jun 2nd rpt Nice enough, steady E1 climbing with ok gear.
Nice enough, steady E1 climbing with ok gear.
Hidden 27 Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Jun 2nd O/S
Hidden 13 May Lead O/S
DeaNomNom 13 May 2nd β
Phil4000 22 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Wetter than an otter’s pocket, but fun.
with William brains brant
Wetter than an otter’s pocket, but fun.
with William brains brant
Robb Bert 8 Jul, 2018 2nd
with Steve George
with Steve George
JackM92 6 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 5 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
neal 3 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Good route. Gear low down is a bit tricky. Guidebook description is a little unclear. Climbed what seemed like the obvious line (+lots of chalk) that fitted the description, which was perhaps soft for E2? E2 prob requires a bit more of a blinkers on? Anyway, nice climbing.
with Chris S
Good route. Gear low down is a bit tricky. Guidebook description is a little unclear. Climbed what seemed like the obvious line (+lots of chalk) that fitted the description, which was perhaps soft for E2? E2 prob requires a bit more of a blinkers on? Anyway, nice climbing.
with Chris S
Mike W 1 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
Gabe Oliver 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Absolute cruise-fest. Good gear all th way and lovely climbing
Absolute cruise-fest. Good gear all th way and lovely climbing
manuelabucci 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Such a fun climbing with nothing hard. A bit bold
Such a fun climbing with nothing hard. A bit bold
Chriswallis2 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Good climbing but very much an eliminate.
with Mike W
Good climbing but very much an eliminate.
with Mike W
bencole 13 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Really nice route. Very steady moves all the way. Soft end of E2 I thought.
Really nice route. Very steady moves all the way. Soft end of E2 I thought.
Widda 12 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S chill babes
chill babes
chris_woodsy 12 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Widda
with Widda
milena 10 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
harry_lewis 10 Jun, 2018 2nd
with milena
with milena
Hidden 10 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
Jonny Nick 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Finished left of the tower / crack as just followed the most logical line / holds. Felt more like E1 5a this way. Nice climbing, not keen on routes which force you into a tricky section just to get the grade, as this does.
Finished left of the tower / crack as just followed the most logical line / holds. Felt more like E1 5a this way. Nice climbing, not keen on routes which force you into a tricky section just to get the grade, as this does.
benw681 4 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Classic
with Yuki
Classic
with Yuki
Dan Arkle 9 May, 2018 2nd
Hidden ??, 2018 -
lost.arrow 9 Jul, 2017 2nd Superb.
Superb.
shed_hed 16 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt
with Butel
with Butel
Butel 16 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Soft
Soft
pie_eater_pete 25 May, 2017 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 9 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs 17 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
with Rollo
with Rollo
Rollo 17 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S First E2!!! I found plenty of gear TBH, although it did take plenty of imagination.
First E2!!! I found plenty of gear TBH, although it did take plenty of imagination.
Adam Booth 17 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
jezb1 16 Aug, 2016 2nd
Ed Booth 16 Aug, 2016 2nd
Misha 23 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S LH start which is easy and relatively clean. LH finish following holds and gear, moving R into the tower crack. That felt logical. Some nice moves but not that hard and there was enough gear on the harder bits so felt like E1 on second.
with eel
LH start which is easy and relatively clean. LH finish following holds and gear, moving R into the tower crack. That felt logical. Some nice moves but not that hard and there was enough gear on the harder bits so felt like E1 on second.
with eel
eel 23 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Misha
with Misha
Georgina Brooke 30 May, 2016 2nd awesome, would like to lead some day!
awesome, would like to lead some day!
theotherpetehill 30 May, 2016 Lead O/S Great route, really rough rock and in balance all the way. Didn't have the right gear for 1st runner so felt a bit bold.
with Georgina Brooke
Great route, really rough rock and in balance all the way. Didn't have the right gear for 1st runner so felt a bit bold.
with Georgina Brooke
Derek Ryden 30 May, 2016 Lead O/S Direct up crack
with Glynne Andrew
Direct up crack
with Glynne Andrew
Hidden ??, 2016 -
squicky 24 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S Lovely despite the rain starting just before I set off.
with Iris, Exodus
Lovely despite the rain starting just before I set off.
with Iris, Exodus
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 2nd β
Si ?Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Rhys
with Rhys
Ed morris 28 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Jerry Handren
with Jerry Handren
Dan Vaj 12 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
with khalidq, James McHaffie
with khalidq, James McHaffie
khalidq 12 Jul, 2014 Lead β
with James Mchaffie, Dan Vaj
with James Mchaffie, Dan Vaj
AndrewJamesCherry 6 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S Pretty pleasant, and continuously gets easier as you get higher. Frictitious!
Pretty pleasant, and continuously gets easier as you get higher. Frictitious!
shed_hed 6 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Good fun. Bit bold at the start but there is plenty of gear (managed to place Andrew's entire rack), it's just a bit fiddly to place. Took the right hand finish as the direct finish looked nails. Felt soft for E2.
Good fun. Bit bold at the start but there is plenty of gear (managed to place Andrew's entire rack), it's just a bit fiddly to place. Took the right hand finish as the direct finish looked nails. Felt soft for E2.
Ed Babs 29 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with AlexD
with AlexD
AlexD 29 Jun, 2014 2nd
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Rachel Slater 23 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Zoned out a bit and probably went slightly the wrong way, oops.
with Anna Gilyeat
Zoned out a bit and probably went slightly the wrong way, oops.
with Anna Gilyeat
Hidden 22 Jun, 2014 2nd
Mike_Hayes 21 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Lenny 16 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
with Steve
with Steve
oliverpcain ??, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
The old James turnbull 25 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 22 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
John Mcshea 20 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Justin T 20 Jul, 2013 2nd
Lloyders 18 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Left finish
with Joey C
Left finish
with Joey C
rd20 17 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S Left hand ie E2 finish - direct looks nails!
with Sam CC, Dan G
Left hand ie E2 finish - direct looks nails!
with Sam CC, Dan G
dan gibson 17 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with sam read
with sam read
Hidden 14 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
mark20 14 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
redjerry 13 Jul, 2013 TR O/S
Stone Muppet 12 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S E2 finish (leftwards not up the crack). I think the crux is fiddling in the gear, so solo and near-enough-solo monkeys will find this easier.
with AJM
E2 finish (leftwards not up the crack). I think the crux is fiddling in the gear, so solo and near-enough-solo monkeys will find this easier.
with AJM
Andy Peak 1 12 Jul, 2013 Lead Left hand line at the top
Left hand line at the top
AJM 12 Jul, 2013 2nd β Felt a bit frazzled after belaying in the sunshine. Certainly not E3!
Felt a bit frazzled after belaying in the sunshine. Certainly not E3!
Hidden 11 Jul, 2013 2nd
atapper21 11 Jul, 2013 Lead
with AJCW
with AJCW
wynaptomos 10 Jul, 2013 Lead rpt
Hidden 7 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
smallerrich 2 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S not the right finish, nice route though
not the right finish, nice route though
LRob ??, 2013 Lead O/S
atapper21 ??, 2013 - Bit scared on the finish, I think my nut choice was poor and the prospect of that ripping, for a wimp like me, was hard to handle.
Bit scared on the finish, I think my nut choice was poor and the prospect of that ripping, for a wimp like me, was hard to handle.
Hidden 28 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Ollie B 25 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Got told it was mega soft touch....and it is.
with D.Campbell
Got told it was mega soft touch....and it is.
with D.Campbell
Ewan Russell 30 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S easy possibly hard hvs.
with Ralph
easy possibly hard hvs.
with Ralph
Hidden 25 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
richardr 2 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Nice suprising climb, good gear and rock. Worth 2* for me. E1/2
Nice suprising climb, good gear and rock. Worth 2* for me. E1/2
Hidden 1 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 14 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with ksjs
with ksjs
ksjs 14 Jun, 2011 2nd rpt
with rob
with rob
Dunx 30 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
al99 30 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Not E3, barely E2. Gear was a little sparce off the ground to the first roof, other than that, fine!
with Ben Jones
Not E3, barely E2. Gear was a little sparce off the ground to the first roof, other than that, fine!
with Ben Jones
frost 30 Apr, 2011 2nd
with D Almond
with D Almond
lukehodson 30 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
with Dunx
with Dunx
Dave Almond 30 Apr, 2011 Lead H v s 5a at most
with frost
H v s 5a at most
with frost
Hidden 20 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 19 Apr, 2011 2nd
with Gareth E
with Gareth E
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
uphillnow ??, 2011 - Finished right of true line at top. Worth doubling up on small/medium cams.
with Dave Booth
Finished right of true line at top. Worth doubling up on small/medium cams.
with Dave Booth
HIGHTOWER 4 Sep, 2010 2nd
with centurion05, Dave Gleave
with centurion05, Dave Gleave
centurion05 4 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S E1 5a I guess. Easy clmbing with slight gear not worth 2 stars at all
E1 5a I guess. Easy clmbing with slight gear not worth 2 stars at all
MikePycroft 27 Jun, 2010 Lead rpt Easy in the warm
with Chris P
Easy in the warm
with Chris P
pauldrew 26 Jun, 2010 2nd
with Kevin Sales
with Kevin Sales
ewen 24 Jun, 2010 2nd
with neil stabbs
with neil stabbs
Stumpyham 20 Jun, 2010 2nd
with lindy
with lindy
Hidden 18 Jun, 2010 Lead
samrad 18 Jun, 2010 2nd
with helena
with helena
dan ely 17 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 16 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S still a bit dirty from ze rain but its fine...more like HVS/E1, if this and Suicide wall route 2 are the same grade I'll eat my smelly pants....believe that more gear will come you are never going to die on this route! easier than Isengard HVS in the lakes which is equally if not more bold!
still a bit dirty from ze rain but its fine...more like HVS/E1, if this and Suicide wall route 2 are the same grade I'll eat my smelly pants....believe that more gear will come you are never going to die on this route! easier than Isengard HVS in the lakes which is equally if not more bold!
Bennykr 16 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S good route, soft E2 never mind E3, minor epic retrieving rope after duncan threw the rope down only to get it stuck :D
good route, soft E2 never mind E3, minor epic retrieving rope after duncan threw the rope down only to get it stuck :D
barni 15 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
with Nic cot
with Nic cot
mynyddresident 15 Jun, 2010 Lead Eliminate as they come.
Eliminate as they come.
Martin Bennett 2 Jun, 2010 -
with NickH
with NickH
Tim Sparrow ?Jun, 2010 Lead
with Al B
with Al B
Hidden 28 May, 2010 Lead O/S
farmus21 28 May, 2010 Lead Ended up straying from the line and finishing up Rufus by accident. Lower ection nice but easy.
with Ben Allsford
Ended up straying from the line and finishing up Rufus by accident. Lower ection nice but easy.
with Ben Allsford
farmus21 28 May, 2010 2nd Followed Ben up the true line. Eliminate and easy, barely E1.
with Ben Allsford
Followed Ben up the true line. Eliminate and easy, barely E1.
with Ben Allsford
ksjs 24 May, 2010 Lead O/S feels a bit bold at the start but settles down. steady climbing, nice position, good. never E3
with pete
feels a bit bold at the start but settles down. steady climbing, nice position, good. never E3
with pete
Hidden 24 May, 2010 Lead
Hidden 23 May, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 23 May, 2010 Lead O/S
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?May, 2010 Lead O/S E2 5a
E2 5a
zero six ?May, 2010 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 11 Apr, 2010 2nd
soph 1 Jan, 2010 -
Hidden 27 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
Dave Rumney 14 Jun, 2009 Lead a lot more gear than it looks from below
with Sean Roberts
a lot more gear than it looks from below
with Sean Roberts
Hidden 31 May, 2009 Lead O/S
mattyork2 30 May, 2009 Lead O/S Would be HVS if it wasn't a bit spicey at the start. Definitely no harder than E2. Not the best climbing compared to other things on this crag.
with Andy Reeve and Robin
Would be HVS if it wasn't a bit spicey at the start. Definitely no harder than E2. Not the best climbing compared to other things on this crag.
with Andy Reeve and Robin
CharlotteJelleyman 25 May, 2009 2nd O/S variation!!
with Steve Franklin
variation!!
with Steve Franklin
Hidden 25 May, 2009 Lead O/S
geoff b 24 Apr, 2009 2nd
pete johnson 24 Apr, 2009 -
with geoff b
with geoff b
Hidden ?Jun, 2008 Lead
Hidden 2 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
Clucky 16 Jul, 2005 Lead dog
with Daniel O'Neill
with Daniel O'Neill
Tom Briggs 26 Jun, 2005 2nd β
with Ed Brown
with Ed Brown
Hidden 29 Jun, 2003 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 5 Aug, 1996 Lead O/S Rubbish
with Roy Thomas
Rubbish
with Roy Thomas
wynaptomos ?Aug, 1995 2nd O/S
Seymore Butt ??, 1995 Lead
with Spuz
with Spuz
Hidden ??, 1995 2nd
Hidden 16 Aug, 1993 2nd
Neil McA 3 Jul, 1993 Lead O/S
with Paul Jenkinson
with Paul Jenkinson
Ched ??, 1992 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 45
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set