Rockfax Description
A tricky route with only just enough gear in the lower reaches. Start just left of a slim groove that leads up to a small roof at 12m. Whilst you can climb direct it feels safer to climb the easier line to the left and step back right into the groove at about 6m. Turn the roof and you are rewarded with a series of ledges leading up to Rufus. Up and left is a tower with a crack in its front. Move up to the tower and swing left to climb the crack. Above the tower further balancy climbing is required to get to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Alex's Wales ticklist.

lost.arrow 09/Jul 2nd


shed_hed 16/Jun 2nd rpt
Butel 16/Jun Lead O/S


pie_eater_pete 25/May Lead O/S
deacondeacon 09/Apr Lead O/S
mikeyjbs 17/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Rollo
Rollo 17/Aug/16 Lead O/S

First E2!!! I found plenty of gear TBH, although it did take plenty of imagination.

Adam Booth 17/Aug/16 Lead O/S
jezb1 16/Aug/16 2nd
Ed Booth 16/Aug/16 2nd
Misha 23/Jul/16 2nd O/S

LH start which is easy and relatively clean. LH finish following holds and gear, moving R into the tower crack. That felt logical. Some nice moves but not that hard and there was enough gear on the harder bits so felt like E1 on second.

with Eve
eel 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Misha
Georgina Brooke 30/May/16 2nd

awesome, would like to lead some day!

theotherpetehill 30/May/16 Lead O/S

Great route, really rough rock and in balance all the way. Didn't have the right gear for 1st runner so felt a bit bold.

with Georgina Brooke
Derek Ryden 30/May/16 Lead O/S

Direct up crack

with Glynne Andrew
Hidden ??/2016 -
squicky 24/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Lovely despite the rain starting just before I set off.

with Iris, John
Wood for Trees 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

As below, E1 5a. Would be a nice solo with the left hand version rather than the steep crack.

with barrows
Hidden 18/Apr/15 2nd β
Si ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Rhys
Ed morris 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Jerry Handren
Dan Vaj 12/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Khalid, James McHaffie
khalidq 12/Jul/14 Lead β
with James Mchaffie, Dan Vajzovic
AndrewJamesCherry 06/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Pretty pleasant, and continuously gets easier as you get higher. Frictitious!

shed_hed 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Good fun. Bit bold at the start but there is plenty of gear (managed to place Andrew's entire rack), it's just a bit fiddly to place. Took the right hand finish as the direct finish looked nails. Felt soft for E2.

Ed Babs 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with AlexD
AlexD 29/Jun/14 2nd
with Ed
Rachel Slater 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Zoned out a bit and probably went slightly the wrong way, oops.

with Anna Gilyeat
Hidden 22/Jun/14 2nd
Mike_Hayes 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Lenny 16/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Steve
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/13 2nd O/S
The old James turnbull 25/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with duncan
Hidden 22/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
John Mcshea 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Justin T 20/Jul/13 2nd
Lloyders 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Left finish

with Joey C
rd20 17/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Left hand ie E2 finish - direct looks nails!

with Sam CC, Dan G
dan gibson 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with sam read
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
mark20 14/Jul/13 2nd O/S
redjerry 13/Jul/13 TR O/S
Stone Muppet 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S

E2 finish (leftwards not up the crack). I think the crux is fiddling in the gear, so solo and near-enough-solo monkeys will find this easier.

with am
Andy Peak 1 12/Jul/13 Lead

Left hand line at the top

AJM 12/Jul/13 2nd β

Felt a bit frazzled after belaying in the sunshine. Certainly not E3!

Hidden 11/Jul/13 2nd
wynaptomos 10/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S
smallerrich 02/Jun/13 2nd O/S

not the right finish, nice route though

LRob ??/2013 Lead O/S
atapper21 ??/2013 -

Bit scared on the finish, I think my nut choice was poor and the prospect of that ripping, for a wimp like me, was hard to handle.

Hidden 28/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Ollie B 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Got told it was mega soft touch....and it is.

with D.Campbell
Ewan Russell 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

easy possibly hard hvs.

with Ralph
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S
richardr 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Nice suprising climb, good gear and rock. Worth 2* for me. E1/2

Hidden 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
ksjs 14/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with rob
Dunx 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
al99 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Not E3, barely E2. Gear was a little sparce off the ground to the first roof, other than that, fine!

with Ben Jones
frost 30/Apr/11 2nd
with D Almond
lukehodson 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Duncan
Dave Almond 30/Apr/11 Lead

H v s 5a at most

Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 19/Apr/11 2nd
with Gareth E
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -

Finished right of true line at top. Worth doubling up on small/medium cams.

with Dave Booth
HIGHTOWER 04/Sep/10 2nd
with Andy Woolston, Dave Gleave
centurion05 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S

E1 5a I guess. Easy clmbing with slight gear not worth 2 stars at all

Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead rpt
pauldrew 26/Jun/10 2nd
with Kevin Sales
ewen 24/Jun/10 2nd
with neil stabbs
Stumpyham 20/Jun/10 2nd
with lindy
Hidden 18/Jun/10 Lead
samrad 18/Jun/10 2nd
with helena
dan ely 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S

still a bit dirty from ze rain but its fine...more like HVS/E1, if this and Suicide wall route 2 are the same grade I'll eat my smelly pants....believe that more gear will come you are never going to die on this route! easier than Isengard HVS in the lakes which is equally if not more bold!

Bennykr 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S

good route, soft E2 never mind E3, minor epic retrieving rope after duncan threw the rope down only to get it stuck :D

barni 15/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Nic cot
mynyddresident 15/Jun/10 Lead

Eliminate as they come.

Martin Bennett 02/Jun/10 -
with NickH
Tim Sparrow ?/Jun/10 Lead
with Al B
Hidden 28/May/10 Lead O/S
farmus21 28/May/10 Lead

Ended up straying from the line and finishing up Rufus by accident. Lower ection nice but easy.

with Ben Allsford
farmus21 28/May/10 2nd

Followed Ben up the true line. Eliminate and easy, barely E1.

with Ben Allsford
ksjs 24/May/10 Lead O/S

feels a bit bold at the start but settles down. steady climbing, nice position, good. never E3

with pete
Hidden 24/May/10 Lead
Rich Kirby 23/May/10 2nd O/S
with Ewan
Hidden 23/May/10 Lead O/S
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/May/10 Lead O/S

E2 5a

zero six ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 11/Apr/10 2nd
soph 01/Jan/10 -
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Dave Rumney 14/Jun/09 Lead

a lot more gear than it looks from below

with Sean Roberts
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead O/S
mattyork2 30/May/09 Lead O/S

Would be HVS if it wasn't a bit spicey at the start. Definitely no harder than E2. Not the best climbing compared to other things on this crag.

with Andy Reeve and Robin
CharlotteJelleyman 25/May/09 2nd O/S


with Steve Franklin
Hidden 25/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 02/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Clucky 16/Jul/05 Lead dog
with Daniel O'Neill
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 26/Jun/05 2nd β
with Ed Brown
Hidden 29/Jun/03 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 05/Aug/96 Lead O/S


with Roy Thomas
wynaptomos ?/Aug/95 2nd O/S
Seymore Butt ??/1995 -
with Spuz
Hidden ??/1995 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/93 2nd
Ched ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
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High E2
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High E1
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Votes cast 39
High 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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