25m.

Rockfax Description
One of the great E5s of the Pass. It requires a steady approach and a good eye for gear to make it safe - a large cam is handy. Start by a low diagonal crack in the centre of the wall. Move up over this and step up to the higher leftwards-slanting crack. Follow the crack left to a faint groove and a series of leaning flake/cracks. Move more urgently up these to reach a bold wall and a hand-jamming crack above. Gain the crack with relief if you can jam and continue on to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The excellent route up the centre of the wall on perfectly adequate gear. Start at the base of a very slight groove, move up to a leftward diagonal crack and follow this back to big holds and the aformentioned groove. Climb direct on satisfyingly large holds to a short, wide crack and scamper out left into a large steepening groove. Finish up this. french 6c.

johnny dawes

Ticklists

Top Five Pass E4's, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Wales Ticklist, Definitive *** Llanberis

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UserDateNotes
James-m-h 22 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Fell off after I couldn't get the gear out absolutely pumped
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fell off after I couldn't get the gear out absolutely pumped
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Owen Davies 20 Sep Lead O/S Stupendously good climbing on mostly sidepulls, requires good use of your hips to prevent the dreaded pump. Barely an onsight due to excessive chalking and tick marks, shame really...
with Toby Barthelmes
Stupendously good climbing on mostly sidepulls, requires good use of your hips to prevent the dreaded pump. Barely an onsight due to excessive chalking and tick marks, shame really...
with Toby Barthelmes
Tobias Barthelmes 20 Sep 2nd dog
Ramon Marin 19 Sep Lead O/S Great route. Gear is all there, there’s a bomber micro cam as the last bit that protect the busting moves until you get the big yellow cam. No hand jams in sight. This one didnt dissapoint.
with Tom le fanu
Great route. Gear is all there, there’s a bomber micro cam as the last bit that protect the busting moves until you get the big yellow cam. No hand jams in sight. This one didnt dissapoint.
with Tom le fanu
Matt Harle 26 Aug 2nd β
Hidden 25 Aug -
Mike_Hayes 25 Aug 2nd rpt
with Mike Lea
with Mike Lea
rachelpearce01 5 Jul Lead RP Seconded George on it couple of days before and then top roped it today to make sure I knew where all the good gear was. Can be hard to fine but what I got was really bomber. Wish I had onsighted it as it didn’t feel at my limit once I knew all the moves. Really good though, steep and pumpy !
Seconded George on it couple of days before and then top roped it today to make sure I knew where all the good gear was. Can be hard to fine but what I got was really bomber. Wish I had onsighted it as it didn’t feel at my limit once I knew all the moves. Really good though, steep and pumpy !
Lewis Perrin Williams 5 Jul 2nd Top lead from Dan, rested on rope once to take out gear and figure out sequence, wasn't hard to figure out: Quite a sustained route but never desperate, on the blunt end anyway!
with Dan Hale
Top lead from Dan, rested on rope once to take out gear and figure out sequence, wasn't hard to figure out: Quite a sustained route but never desperate, on the blunt end anyway!
with Dan Hale
Dan Hale 4 Jul Lead O/S Excellent route!
Excellent route!
Eduardo Martinez 4 Jul Lead O/S Steady. Had my large cam ready.
Steady. Had my large cam ready.
Hidden 4 Jul Lead rpt
George_Surf 2 Jul Lead O/S Was feeling good until i got the wrong wire stuck in the crucial slot before going up through the small roof (sideways #7) and it looked shit; got really pumped going up and down 4 times and a bit scared but got there in the end...
Was feeling good until i got the wrong wire stuck in the crucial slot before going up through the small roof (sideways #7) and it looked shit; got really pumped going up and down 4 times and a bit scared but got there in the end...
Misha 27 Jun Lead O/S Bit of a battle! Not very fit at the moment but even so think it’s fairly solid at E5. Got pumped on a hard (but safe) sequence reaching the big flat hold. Once I got stood up on it, there was a rest but couldn’t quite recover fully. Gear fine up to that point, then there’s a so-so green cam (or sideways nut 9 apparently) and a run out to a crucial yellow cam. Got a bit exciting there as it’s sustained and fluffable. Glad to get the cam, even if it took up part of the hand jam. Still managed to get an awkward hand jam to shake out and go off for the last hard moves. Welcome jugs and another yellow cam, then easy (big blue cam useful but not essential by that stage). Lots of hard 5c / easy 6a moves and no good rests after leaving the big flat hold but managed to hang around a fair bit. Stripped the gear on lead. The green cam seemed ok but not great. It’s pretty crucial as if you come off just before getting the yellow cam and the green blows, you’d probably be scraping the ground on stretch. Pleased to do it but should have found this a bit easier...
Bit of a battle! Not very fit at the moment but even so think it’s fairly solid at E5. Got pumped on a hard (but safe) sequence reaching the big flat hold. Once I got stood up on it, there was a rest but couldn’t quite recover fully. Gear fine up to that point, then there’s a so-so green cam (or sideways nut 9 apparently) and a run out to a crucial yellow cam. Got a bit exciting there as it’s sustained and fluffable. Glad to get the cam, even if it took up part of the hand jam. Still managed to get an awkward hand jam to shake out and go off for the last hard moves. Welcome jugs and another yellow cam, then easy (big blue cam useful but not essential by that stage). Lots of hard 5c / easy 6a moves and no good rests after leaving the big flat hold but managed to hang around a fair bit. Stripped the gear on lead. The green cam seemed ok but not great. It’s pretty crucial as if you come off just before getting the yellow cam and the green blows, you’d probably be scraping the ground on stretch. Pleased to do it but should have found this a bit easier...
James-m-h 22 Jun 2nd dog Fell off after I couldn't get the gear out absolutely pumped
with joedean
Fell off after I couldn't get the gear out absolutely pumped
with joedean
ferdia 21 Jun Lead O/S
with Aggie Turlo
with Aggie Turlo
Mark Stevenson 22 May Lead O/S
with Katerina Petkov, dan gibson
with Katerina Petkov, dan gibson
Hidden 16 May 2nd rpt
Ed Babs 6 Aug, 2018 Lead dog A great route, but not up to it today. Failure at the wide crack. Twice. A lack of aerobic power apparently. Or possibly the ability to jam.
with IainAM
A great route, but not up to it today. Failure at the wide crack. Twice. A lack of aerobic power apparently. Or possibly the ability to jam.
with IainAM
Si Witcher 23 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt gold Dragon cam went in nicely in the crack
with Aggie T
gold Dragon cam went in nicely in the crack
with Aggie T
debsb 14 Jul, 2018 Lead G/U Retreated off this earlier in the year. Found it ok today.
with Glenda Huxter
Retreated off this earlier in the year. Found it ok today.
with Glenda Huxter
Hidden 9 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Joshthomas 9 Jul, 2018 2nd dog Almost clean on 2nd just got to pumped epic route
Almost clean on 2nd just got to pumped epic route
peter.herd 7 Jun, 2018 Lead
with Brad Reed
with Brad Reed
Hidden 5 Jun, 2018 2nd dog
Terry Cruise 4 Jun, 2018 TR
LRob 4 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt Fun and pumpy. Amazed at how much gear there is if you search.
Fun and pumpy. Amazed at how much gear there is if you search.
LaAnnaPurna 4 Jun, 2018 TR
pete johnson 20 May, 2018 2nd rpt
with Cefin Edwards, Marcus Payne
with Cefin Edwards, Marcus Payne
Hidden 31 Aug, 2017 Lead β
Phil Davidson 25 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Off sets.....the future
with Streaky, Mick Lovatt
Off sets.....the future
with Streaky, Mick Lovatt
Greg Cunningham 21 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt
Gus 18 Jun, 2017 Lead β Grim sweaty/ sunny connies. Knew from the second I pulled on that it wasn't a great idea but had to climb something as we'd walked up there. A good exercise in stubbornness. Not great gear I thought?
with ben rouse
Grim sweaty/ sunny connies. Knew from the second I pulled on that it wasn't a great idea but had to climb something as we'd walked up there. A good exercise in stubbornness. Not great gear I thought?
with ben rouse
Alex Mason 14 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt What a cracking sustained pitch!
What a cracking sustained pitch!
JamesWilliams 14 Jun, 2017 2nd dog cool route couldn't quite rest on the jugs below the final crack, foot slip pulling into the crack meant 1 hang. second E5 with 1 hang im pretty happy with that :)
cool route couldn't quite rest on the jugs below the final crack, foot slip pulling into the crack meant 1 hang. second E5 with 1 hang im pretty happy with that :)
andyinglis 3 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Tim Miller
with Tim Miller
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 9 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Pleased with this - had to fight really hard. I wasn't completely comfortable with any of my gear (although it was good and plenty of it) so I spent ages hanging around at each stance. After the half way jugs this meant I was getting progressively more pumped on not-great holds. Finally got a cam in the high vertical crack but this blocked the jam so I had to make really strenuous lay-back moves up it. Pleased that I pushed on even when I felt uncertain; should have just kept going instead of dithering but got there eventually! I'm happy to take the e5 tick for this one. 3 e5s in a weekend - great start to the season!
Pleased with this - had to fight really hard. I wasn't completely comfortable with any of my gear (although it was good and plenty of it) so I spent ages hanging around at each stance. After the half way jugs this meant I was getting progressively more pumped on not-great holds. Finally got a cam in the high vertical crack but this blocked the jam so I had to make really strenuous lay-back moves up it. Pleased that I pushed on even when I felt uncertain; should have just kept going instead of dithering but got there eventually! I'm happy to take the e5 tick for this one. 3 e5s in a weekend - great start to the season!
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Hidden 16 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
James Oswald 14 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S Pumpy . Slightly run-out but safe to get to the crack.
Pumpy . Slightly run-out but safe to get to the crack.
Duncan Campbell 14 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Whatever the grade this is great bit of climbing. Feels a little exciting to get the the wide crack but is safe and not really runout if you find all the gear - some of it is a little unobvious. Not often you do a Dawes route!
Whatever the grade this is great bit of climbing. Feels a little exciting to get the the wide crack but is safe and not really runout if you find all the gear - some of it is a little unobvious. Not often you do a Dawes route!
WB 6 Aug, 2016 Lead β on Marks gear again.
on Marks gear again.
markalmack 6 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S E4
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
E4
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
RebekahD 30 Jul, 2016 2nd
JulesV 4 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
with SV
with SV
Hidden 4 Jun, 2016 2nd
Hidden 3 Jun, 2016 2nd rpt
D.Russell 29 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 May, 2016 Lead RP
GPN 15 May, 2016 Lead O/S Cracking route! E4.
with net
Cracking route! E4.
with net
Hidden ??, 2016 -
soph 8 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S No chalk so proper onsight- really good, pumpy for me!
with Tony Stone
No chalk so proper onsight- really good, pumpy for me!
with Tony Stone
Adam Booth 16 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Easy until just below the top crack, where I stupidly got myself pumped trying get a decent runner. Having said that, the gear is good; I didn't find it especially bold, like the description says.
Easy until just below the top crack, where I stupidly got myself pumped trying get a decent runner. Having said that, the gear is good; I didn't find it especially bold, like the description says.
Ed Booth 16 Jul, 2015 2nd rpt
dominic lee 16 May, 2015 Lead
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
bigie bob 9 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Cailean Harker 15 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Mike Goldthorp
with Mike Goldthorp
mynyddresident 14 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S First E5 os. Forgot the cam I required, oops.
with liam
First E5 os. Forgot the cam I required, oops.
with liam
wolf.leeb 11 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Really good and soft. :) Just climb it quick.
Really good and soft. :) Just climb it quick.
Rachel Slater 5 Sep, 2014 Lead dnf Hung on for about 2 hours before I decided I was two psyched out to do it and lowered off.
Hung on for about 2 hours before I decided I was two psyched out to do it and lowered off.
Ed morris 9 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S 6c, adequate gear. Brilliant
6c, adequate gear. Brilliant
redjerry 28 Jul, 2014 Lead
with Ed Morris
with Ed Morris
Hidden 24 Jul, 2014 2nd
Mike_Hayes 21 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Justin T 19 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Soft at E5 but I'll take the tick! Climbs superbly.
with Nick B
Soft at E5 but I'll take the tick! Climbs superbly.
with Nick B
shed_hed 18 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Fantastic route! First E5 maybe?! Sustained quality and difficulty all the way up! Only just got to the top after getting ridiculously pumped and nearly falling off in a couple of places but managed to hang on and recover enough. Probably should have warmed up on something else first and didn't realise this is high in the grade/E5 in some places. Got scared above gear (but I don't think it was bold) and I'm pretty sure I managed to find every placement, and then some - probably why I got so pumped. Pretty happy to get up this seeing as I've not led anything hard for a while.
with Gwen Lancashire
Fantastic route! First E5 maybe?! Sustained quality and difficulty all the way up! Only just got to the top after getting ridiculously pumped and nearly falling off in a couple of places but managed to hang on and recover enough. Probably should have warmed up on something else first and didn't realise this is high in the grade/E5 in some places. Got scared above gear (but I don't think it was bold) and I'm pretty sure I managed to find every placement, and then some - probably why I got so pumped. Pretty happy to get up this seeing as I've not led anything hard for a while.
with Gwen Lancashire
The old James turnbull 17 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with will sim
with will sim
Hidden 15 Jun, 2014 Lead RP
Tom Livingstone 14 Jun, 2014 2nd rpt
with Jack Lawledge
with Jack Lawledge
Hidden 14 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
nathanlee 21 May, 2014 Lead O/S Didn't have the right cam for the top and missed gear below. Felt very sketch!
with Wiz, Tom Livingstone, goli
Didn't have the right cam for the top and missed gear below. Felt very sketch!
with Wiz, Tom Livingstone, goli
Tom Livingstone 21 May, 2014 Lead β
Rob Pitt 17 May, 2014 Lead rpt
with Nick B
with Nick B
AJM 22 Jul, 2013 2nd dog 1 rest. Missed a foothold.
1 rest. Missed a foothold.
Mike Goldthorp 22 Jul, 2013 Lead rpt Quality route, felt steady, expecting it to be pumpy (says in the guide), maybe pumpy for an E4 climber, but steady for E5 - big holds most of the way. Apparently I've done this before but have no memory atall of it :-/ Ah well
with AJM
Quality route, felt steady, expecting it to be pumpy (says in the guide), maybe pumpy for an E4 climber, but steady for E5 - big holds most of the way. Apparently I've done this before but have no memory atall of it :-/ Ah well
with AJM
willoates 15 Jul, 2013 - First successful E5 since falling off ghost train. good climbing on good holds. nice.
with John Oooooore
First successful E5 since falling off ghost train. good climbing on good holds. nice.
with John Oooooore
redjerry 12 Jul, 2013 TR O/S
Hidden 9 Jul, 2013 TR
Hidden 8 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
Ledgelaw ?Jul, 2013 -
with Malc
with Malc
malx ?Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
tim newton 18 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with breed
with breed
steve_yo 9 Jun, 2013 Lead 2nd go ground up
with sam ring
2nd go ground up
with sam ring
LRob ??, 2013 Lead O/S
atapper21 ??, 2013 Lead cocked it up, got it next go ground up, great climbing
with AJCW
cocked it up, got it next go ground up, great climbing
with AJCW
Ewan Russell 28 May, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 28 May, 2012 Lead
Owain Llewelyn 4 Aug, 2011 Lead Crux was greasy, rested on cam. Cracking route.
with centurion05, Gareth E
Crux was greasy, rested on cam. Cracking route.
with centurion05, Gareth E
centurion05 ?Aug, 2011 Lead dog top crack was wet, got the cam in then couldn't finish without coming off. nice route, could've done with a warm up before though.
with Rimon Than
top crack was wet, got the cam in then couldn't finish without coming off. nice route, could've done with a warm up before though.
with Rimon Than
Luke Brooks 6 Jun, 2011 2nd
Steve Crowe 6 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
Liam FLeming 6 Jun, 2011 -
with luke brooks
with luke brooks
Ed Booth 4 May, 2011 Lead O/S
with Ben Alsford
with Ben Alsford
phil64 2 May, 2011 Lead rpt
Hidden ??, 2011 -
phil64 ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
barni 4 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
with Toni st
with Toni st
hamish2016 4 Sep, 2010 Lead
with Wil Treasure
with Wil Treasure
Wil Treasure 4 Sep, 2010 2nd
with hamdunn
with hamdunn
ewen 22 Jun, 2010 2nd
with neil stabbs
with neil stabbs
Hidden 20 Jun, 2010 2nd rpt
nige 20 Jun, 2010 Lead
with ash
with ash
dan gibson 5 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with nick bullock
with nick bullock
Hidden 4 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
phil64 ?Jun, 2010 Lead
with tim hunter
with tim hunter
ksjs 24 May, 2010 Lead O/S slightly bold off the ground but fine. bit run out to gain final crack but youre above good gear. generally, thought gear was a bit spaced but good. brilliant sport-style trad that just beats What a Difference... for quality, pumpy. E4 6a or Fr 6b+/c
with pete
slightly bold off the ground but fine. bit run out to gain final crack but youre above good gear. generally, thought gear was a bit spaced but good. brilliant sport-style trad that just beats What a Difference... for quality, pumpy. E4 6a or Fr 6b+/c
with pete
Mike Goldthorp 22 May, 2010 Lead O/S Very much enjoyed, pretty pumpy but not excessively so. Guidebook said it was a bit runout but didnt seem to be too bad
with George Ulrich
Very much enjoyed, pretty pumpy but not excessively so. Guidebook said it was a bit runout but didnt seem to be too bad
with George Ulrich
hamer89 14 Apr, 2010 Lead β mint
mint
Alex Mason 14 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S First trad route for a while. ended up down climbing to the deck from the last 2/3 moves because i missed the big cam. E4 5c except the first move, but top end. All jugs. 6c.
with hamer89
First trad route for a while. ended up down climbing to the deck from the last 2/3 moves because i missed the big cam. E4 5c except the first move, but top end. All jugs. 6c.
with hamer89
Luke Brooks 11 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
Hidden 14 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
gregoritos 9 Aug, 2009 Lead Did all the hard climbing then slipped on the easy groove to fall headfirst back onto the face - whoops!(E4).
with james
Did all the hard climbing then slipped on the easy groove to fall headfirst back onto the face - whoops!(E4).
with james
Stig 8 Aug, 2009 2nd dog Pumped out out at crux, hesitated, disappointing. 1 rest.
with Greg
Pumped out out at crux, hesitated, disappointing. 1 rest.
with Greg
Toby Dunn 23 Jun, 2009 Lead
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
Rob Pitt 16 Jun, 2009 Lead dnf
with steveE9
with steveE9
Hidden 12 Jun, 2009 Lead β
Hidden ?Jun, 2009 Lead
pete johnson 12 May, 2009 Lead β
MikePycroft ?May, 2009 2nd dog 1 fall trying to get gear out
1 fall trying to get gear out
Boy ?Apr, 2009 -
with Nige Kershaw
with Nige Kershaw
Adam Lincoln ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Obi-Wan is lost... ??, 2008 2nd
Ram MkiV 10 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
with reeve
with reeve
IOAN D 28 May, 2007 Lead O/S
with Mills
with Mills
Hidden ??, 2006 2nd O/S
Tom Briggs 25 Jun, 2005 Lead rpt
with Ed Brown
with Ed Brown
Hidden 19 Jun, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2002 Lead O/S
sadams 5 Jun, 1998 Lead O/S
with Andy Bowie
with Andy Bowie
duncan 9 Aug, 1997 Lead O/S
TCP ?Jul, 1996 Lead O/S
with Ben Humphreys
with Ben Humphreys
whispering nic ?Apr, 1996 Lead O/S
with April
with April
innes ??, 1996 Lead O/S
with Craig
with Craig
Si Witcher ??, 1996 Lead O/S E4 5c. Great climbing.
E4 5c. Great climbing.
Cowflinger ?Jun, 1995 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 1994 Lead O/S
Neil McA 2 Jul, 1994 Lead G/U Lowered off for a rest then did it second go - getting tired, long day!
with Beak 2
Lowered off for a rest then did it second go - getting tired, long day!
with Beak 2
Hidden 23 Jun, 1988 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 May, 1988 Lead
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 39
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set