Rockfax Description
One of the great E5s of the Pass. It requires a steady approach and a good eye for gear to make it safe - a large cam is handy. Start by a low diagonal crack in the centre of the wall. Move up over this and step up to the higher leftwards-slanting crack. Follow the crack left to a faint groove and a series of leaning flake/cracks. Move more urgently up these to reach a bold wall and a hand-jamming crack above. Gain the crack with relief if you can jam and continue on to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The excellent route up the centre of the wall on perfectly adequate gear. Start at the base of a very slight groove, move up to a leftward diagonal crack and follow this back to big holds and the aformentioned groove. Climb direct on satisfyingly large holds to a short, wide crack and scamper out left into a large steepening groove. Finish up this. french 6c.

johnny dawes

Ticklists: Top Five Pass E4's, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

pete johnson 20/May 2nd rpt
with Cefin Edwards, Marcus Payne
Felix la shat 31/Aug/17 Lead β
with Dad
Phil Davidson 25/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Off sets.....the future

with Streaky, Mick Lovatt
Greg Cunningham 21/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 21/Jun/17 2nd rpt
with Greg Cunningham
Gus 18/Jun/17 Lead β

Grim sweaty/ sunny connies. Knew from the second I pulled on that it wasn't a great idea but had to climb something as we'd walked up there. A good exercise in stubbornness. Not great gear I thought?

with ben rouse
Alex Mason 14/Jun/17 Lead rpt

What a cracking sustained pitch!

JamesWilliams 14/Jun/17 2nd dog

cool route couldn't quite rest on the jugs below the final crack, foot slip pulling into the crack meant 1 hang. second E5 with 1 hang im pretty happy with that :)

andyinglis 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Tim Miller
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Pleased with this - had to fight really hard. I wasn't completely comfortable with any of my gear (although it was good and plenty of it) so I spent ages hanging around at each stance. After the half way jugs this meant I was getting progressively more pumped on not-great holds. Finally got a cam in the high vertical crack but this blocked the jam so I had to make really strenuous lay-back moves up it. Pleased that I pushed on even when I felt uncertain; should have just kept going instead of dithering but got there eventually! I'm happy to take the e5 tick for this one. 3 e5s in a weekend - great start to the season!

Hidden ??/2017 -
anguskille 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Rich Gentry
James Oswald 14/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Pumpy . Slightly run-out but safe to get to the crack.

Duncan Campbell 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Whatever the grade this is great bit of climbing. Feels a little exciting to get the the wide crack but is safe and not really runout if you find all the gear - some of it is a little unobvious. Not often you do a Dawes route!

WB 06/Aug/16 Lead β

on Marks gear again.

markalmack 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S


with WB
RebekahD 30/Jul/16 2nd
JulesV 04/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Shauna
Hidden 04/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 03/Jun/16 2nd rpt
D.Russell 29/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/16 Lead RP
GPN 15/May/16 Lead O/S

Cracking route! E4.

with net
Hidden ??/2016 -
soph 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

No chalk so proper onsight- really good, pumpy for me!

with Tony Stone
Adam Booth 16/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Easy until just below the top crack, where I stupidly got myself pumped trying get a decent runner. Having said that, the gear is good; I didn't find it especially bold, like the description says.

Ed Booth 16/Jul/15 2nd rpt
dominic lee 16/May/15 Lead
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
bigie bob 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Cailean Harker 15/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Mike Goldthorp
mynyddresident 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

First E5 os. Forgot the cam I required, oops.

with liam
wolf.leeb 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Really good and soft. :) Just climb it quick.

Rachel Slater 05/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Hung on for about 2 hours before I decided I was two psyched out to do it and lowered off.

Ed morris 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

6c, adequate gear. Brilliant

redjerry 28/Jul/14 Lead
with Ed Morris
Rich Kirby 24/Jul/14 2nd
Mike_Hayes 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Justin T 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Soft at E5 but I'll take the tick! Climbs superbly.

with Nick B
shed_hed 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic route! First E5 maybe?! Sustained quality and difficulty all the way up! Only just got to the top after getting ridiculously pumped and nearly falling off in a couple of places but managed to hang on and recover enough. Probably should have warmed up on something else first and didn't realise this is high in the grade/E5 in some places. Got scared above gear (but I don't think it was bold) and I'm pretty sure I managed to find every placement, and then some - probably why I got so pumped. Pretty happy to get up this seeing as I've not led anything hard for a while.

with Gwen Lancashire
The old James turnbull 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with will sim
Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead RP
Tom Livingstone 14/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Jack Lawledge
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/14 2nd O/S
nathanlee 21/May/14 Lead O/S

Didn't have the right cam for the top and missed gear below. Felt very sketch!

with Wiz, Tom Livingstone, goli
Tom Livingstone 21/May/14 Lead β
Rob Pitt 17/May/14 Lead rpt
with Nick B
AJM 22/Jul/13 2nd dog

1 rest. Missed a foothold.

Mike Goldthorp 22/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Quality route, felt steady, expecting it to be pumpy (says in the guide), maybe pumpy for an E4 climber, but steady for E5 - big holds most of the way. Apparently I've done this before but have no memory atall of it :-/ Ah well

with AJM
willoates 15/Jul/13 -

First successful E5 since falling off ghost train. good climbing on good holds. nice.

with John Oooooore
redjerry 12/Jul/13 TR O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/13 TR
atapper21 09/Jul/13 TR
with AJCW
Hidden 08/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Howard Lawledge ?/Jul/13 -
with Malc
malx ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
tim newton 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with breed
steve_yo 09/Jun/13 Lead

2nd go ground up

with sam ring
LRob ??/2013 Lead O/S
atapper21 ??/2013 Lead

cocked it up, got it next go ground up, great climbing

with AJCW
Ewan Russell 28/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/May/12 Lead
Owain Llewelyn 04/Aug/11 Lead

Crux was greasy, rested on cam. Cracking route.

with centurion05, Gareth E
centurion05 ?/Aug/11 Lead dog

top crack was wet, got the cam in then couldn't finish without coming off. nice route, could've done with a warm up before though.

with Rimon Than
Luke Brooks 06/Jun/11 2nd
Steve Crowe 06/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with karin
Liam FLeming 06/Jun/11 -
with luke brooks
Ed Booth 04/May/11 Lead O/S
with Ben Alsford
phil64 02/May/11 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2011 -
phil64 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
barni 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Toni st
hamish2016 04/Sep/10 Lead
with Wil Treasure
Wil Treasure 04/Sep/10 2nd
with hamdunn
ewen 22/Jun/10 2nd
with neil stabbs
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd rpt
nige 20/Jun/10 Lead
with ash
dan gibson 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with nick bullock
Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/10 2nd O/S
phil64 ?/Jun/10 Lead
with tim hunter
ksjs 24/May/10 Lead O/S

slightly bold off the ground but fine. bit run out to gain final crack but youre above good gear. generally, thought gear was a bit spaced but good. brilliant sport-style trad that just beats What a Difference... for quality, pumpy. E4 6a or Fr 6b+/c

with pete
Mike Goldthorp 22/May/10 Lead O/S

Very much enjoyed, pretty pumpy but not excessively so. Guidebook said it was a bit runout but didnt seem to be too bad

with George Ulrich
hamer89 14/Apr/10 Lead β


Alex Mason 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S

First trad route for a while. ended up down climbing to the deck from the last 2/3 moves because i missed the big cam. E4 5c except the first move, but top end. All jugs. 6c.

with hamer89
Luke Brooks 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
Hidden 14/Sep/09 Lead O/S
gregoritos 09/Aug/09 Lead

Did all the hard climbing then slipped on the easy groove to fall headfirst back onto the face - whoops!(E4).

with james
Stig 08/Aug/09 2nd dog

Pumped out out at crux, hesitated, disappointing. 1 rest.

with Greg
Toby Dunn 23/Jun/09 Lead
with Andy Reeve
Rob Pitt 16/Jun/09 Lead dnf
with steveE9
Hidden 12/Jun/09 Lead β
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead
pete johnson 12/May/09 Lead β
Hidden ?/May/09 2nd dog
Boy ?/Apr/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
Adam Lincoln ??/2009 Lead O/S
Obi-Wan is lost... ??/2008 2nd
Ram MkiV 10/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with reeve
IOAN D 28/May/07 Lead O/S
with Mills
Hidden ??/2006 2nd O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 25/Jun/05 Lead rpt
with Ed Brown
Rich Kirby 19/Jun/05 Lead O/S

Top day......a few years since climbing E5 well...then 2 in a day.

with Tyler
Hidden ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
sadams 05/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Andy Bowie
duncan 09/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Hugo Glover
Graeme Smithy ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with Ben Humphreys
whispering nic ?/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with April
innes ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Craig
switch ??/1996 Lead O/S

E4 5c. Great climbing.

Cowflinger ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/88 Lead O/S
jon 21/May/88 Lead
with malc c
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