UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction applies to Central and Right-Hand Buttresses.

The Left-Hand Buttress is not restricted, but please only use the descent on the left side of the crag (looking in) and whilst approaching, move quickly and quietly until under the LH Buttress to avoid disturbing the birds.

Please report any observations of nesting ravens on the crag to access@thebmc.co.uk

Rockfax Description
A big line that forces its way up the right-hand side of the wall. Start at two short shallow grooves. Climb the right-hand groove and wall to a peg near the top of the initial wall and move up left to a ledge. Head up to pegs and make a series of hard, bold moves to another peg. Now climb up into an overhanging niche and move out right and up to the roof and better holds. Traverse left and over the roof at its narrowest (as for The Committal Chamber) to a sloping ledge. Finish up the corner above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A bold line up the right hand side of the wall. Climb a short 'crusty' wall past a peg to the big ledge.Peg to left. Pull rightwards onto the wall above to poor twin pegs. Steeply up on pinches to a peg and runners.Exit the niche above rightwards into the steep scoop and make a hard move to reach a good hold below the roof. Traverse leftwards and pull through the roof to a 'ledge' . Up the groove to the top.

Mark Radke.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Adam Hocking 1 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, top roped before leading. Added a new finish up the wall on the left. Don’t rock up onto the ledge, move left and quest up the wall. Great fun!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route, top roped before leading. Added a new finish up the wall on the left. Don’t rock up onto the ledge, move left and quest up the wall. Great fun!

Logged Ascents

17 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Iron Crag

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 12 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 5
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Vlad the Impailer

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Dove Crag (Dovedale))

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