Rockfax Description
Simply amazing. It has three pitches that are hard, the final of which is stunning.
1) and 2) As for Subsidiary Grooves.
3) 5c, 18m. From the belay, move right past the groove of Lubyanka and climb the next groove - all very technical and sustained - then traverse left to the triangular ledge belay on Lubyanka or combine with the next pitch for cleaner ropework.
4) 6a, 17m. From the right-hand end of the ledge make a mind-bending move to gain the hanging groove in the arete. Follow this with difficulty to a good ledge and another shared belay over on the left on a good spike.
5) 5c, 40m. The big one. Move up the slab above heading right below the big overhang/diagonal groove. Move right along here, stepping down slightly near the arete where the groove becomes more vertical. Regain the now-overhanging groove and bridge up in the most spectacular of positions until it eases into a slab. Continue on to a good belay above. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Top Five Pass E4's, North Wales Rock Graded List, Good E4s, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

harry_lewis 07/Jul AltLd dnf

Fell off on the first 5c(?!) pitch, then it started to rain so bailed onto main wall. Definitely one to come back for

with Paddy Griffith
Hidden 18/Jun 2nd
Hidden 17/Jun AltLd O/S
drysori 17/Jun AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/16 Lead
malx 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/16 AltLd
Derek Ryden 29/May/16 AltLd dog

Too early in the season for both the climb and me. Every pitch covered with loose green moss. Got well and truely spanked - had to frig all three of the hard pitches. Disappointed. We both felt that all these pitches were 6a on the day. Taking a brush next time!

with Conner
Michael Allday 30/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Great Route First two pitches were very green, the fourth pitch was confusing didnt realise you start under the groove arete so traversed the face wall until i could reach the arete and move round it into the groove. definitely made for a bold lead. but the final pitch was great if not abit cold

Ed Babs 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 & 4. Chuffed with P2 - really strenuous, but I found a knee bar that allowed a rest and gear placement half way through the crux.

James Oakes 29/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Fragmod 29/Jun/15 2nd

bad day at the office :(

phil64 ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
lanky 07/Sep/14 2nd
with Crook
Hidden 23/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Uisdean hawthorn 23/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Absolutely incredible! Led all 3 hard pitches.

with James Mchaffie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Pretty wild route, each pitch route rate as E4 6a in my mind (and not an easy one at that)

Luxulyan 25/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom Murrell
Steve Crowe 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Stunning top pitch

with KM
shed_hed 21/Jun/14 AltLd RP

Amazing route! Led pitch 2. Got very cold belaying gwen on fnal pitch and set off with numb feet. Foot slipped on the last pitch just as I was latching the jug and I feel to the bottom of the groove with route stretch. Gutted but got back on and repeated all the hard bits on the pitch and the final move fine. Top class pitch.

with Gwen Lancashire
Rachel Slater 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2 and 4. Last pitch was pumpy on my tired legs.

tim newton 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

led the 5c pitches, the top pitch is one of the best I've ever done

Rob Pitt 18/Jun/14 AltLd dog

Fell off the 6a pitch... A few times. Arms fried from Cloggy the day before.

with Jo Bertalot
Hidden 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Si ?/Sep/13 AltLd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Had to bail due to midges!

Toby Dunn 28/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Dave Pickford
Misha 13/Jul/13 AltLd

Brilliant! An amazing last pitch with a hundred metre void snapping at your heels, exciting even on second! Mike led the first hard pitch (bold, especially with that dodgy flake - putting gear behind it isn't a great idea, Mike didn't - then surprisingly strenuous. I got the crux and promptly fluffed it by doing it wrong in an overly strenuous way. Took four goes, on the last go I figures out the easy way - once again, being unable to read the route quickly let me down... Mike did the phenomenal top pitch - up till then it was a good route but that pitch made it brilliant. Boiling hot day so t-shirt weather on the crag.

with Mike H
Duncan Campbell 12/Jul/13 AltLd dnf

After Jon forgot his harness, I fell on the first 5c pitch. Once we got to the belay of the pitch the midges decended and after changing plans a few times escaped up Main Wall being eaten alive.

khawk 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with DT
datoon 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with K
frank ramsay 06/Jun/13 AltLd

Safer than lubyanka. Amazing top pitch. A quarryman groove for mortals.

with Aaron
Aaron Lines 06/Jun/13 2nd
The old James turnbull ?/Aug/12 AltLd
with aiden
Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Marcus ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
dan gibson 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with nick bullock
Luke Brooks 23/May/10 AltLd O/S
with John Orr
soph 01/Jan/10 -
mattyork2 31/May/09 AltLd dnf

Horrible starting pitches led to the 5c pitch which seemed really dangerous with loose rock and very poor protection. Abbed off.

with Andy Reeve
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
morganator 01/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
tuftynick ??/2008 -
Rich Kirby 16/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

Led top 2 pitches whilst my partner beat himself up with the club of defeat!

with Ash
Hidden ?/Jul/05 AltLd
Hidden 01/Jun/03 Lead
Hidden 11/Jul/99 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 30/May/97 Lead dnf

The big loose flake at the top of the first hard pitch isn't there anymore. Neither are some of my fingers!!

with Nigel Baker
Hidden ?/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
with Nick Ashton
michael burrows 30/Jun/95 AltLd O/S

1 point of aid

with richard parry
Roget 06/May/95 Lead dog

1 rest on 6a pitch

with jon
Bulls Crack ??/1995 Lead O/S
with RW
richparry ??/1995 -
keefe ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd
duncan ??/1995 AltLd O/S
with Dan Donovan
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
Andy Edgar ??/1993 AltLd

Lead pitches 3 & 4 found the top pitch the crux!

with Hugh Woodland
Hidden ?/May/90 AltLd
Hidden 06/Aug/89 Lead
andybirtwistle 23/Jul/89 AltLd
with Mike Arnold
PaulTanton ?/Jul/89 AltLd O/S
Will Webb ?/May/89 AltLd
with Mark Cole
wynaptomos ?/Jul/88 AltLd dog
Eduardo Martinez 18/Jun/88 Lead O/S
sadams 11/Jun/88 AltLd
with Andy Mitchell
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 15/May/88 2nd

John led pitch 3 and 4 in one runout, I found it desperate with poor gear. When I arrived at the stance he looked up the top pitch and said your lead, I thought he was joking but no. It was akin to climbing a groove up the prow of a ship, some wild wide bridging led up to an old peg, stupidly I lassoo'd it from below bridged up to it and put my finger through its eye, it took me several minutes to calm myself down and leave go of it so I could properly clip a runner The position was awesome every time you looked to place your feet you were aware of a huge void!

with John Mckeever, Luke Steer
andy gittins ??/1988 Lead
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1987 AltLd
charlesmfrench 11/Jul/86 AltLd dog

I had to rest on the top groove. Take lots of Rock #4's.

with Ian Milne
ukb & bmc shark 14/Jun/86 Lead dnf

Big fall when I pulled a hold off above the crux. Trevor Hodgson & Jimmy Jewel just above.

with Steve Etherington
keefe 01/Jun/85 -
with Johnny Adams
Dave Turnbull ?/Jul/84 Lead
Hidden 30/May/83 AltLd
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S

Stayed up all night and was almost hallucinating at the top of this. Quite a trip. Quent fell off the top pitch and snapped one of the old pegs. I led the first two pitches. Great day out.

with Quentin Fisher
Andy Nicholson ?/Aug/82 AltLd O/S
with Spike
Hidden ?/Jun/82 AltLd O/S
mitch1960 ??/1981 Lead
with Alan Dance
Mark Kemball 26/Jul/80 AltLd

Peg used on top pitch (wet).

with John Jefferies
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Phil Davidson 28/Aug/78 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 13/Jul/77 AltLd O/S
with Chester Dent
jon 19/Jun/77 AltLd
with Pete
Steve Lewis 12/Jul/76 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
petemeads ?/Jul/75 AltLd

I tried the crux free but could not avoid using 2 pegs (the standard at the time). Mick led the top pitch in fine style; I felt the guidebook drop out of my back pocket and watched it disappear forever as I followed...

with Mick Brady
Michael Allday ??/0000 AltLd O/S

Great Route First two pitches were very green, the fourth pitch was confusing didnt realise you start under the groove arete so traversed the face wall until i could reach the arete and move round it into the groove. definitely made for a bold lead. but the final pitch was great if not abit cold

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 14
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
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