Rockfax Description
Simply amazing. It has three pitches that are hard, the final of which is stunning.
1) and 2) As for Subsidiary Grooves.
3) 5c, 18m. From the belay, move right past the groove of Lubyanka and climb the next groove - all very technical and sustained - then traverse left to the triangular ledge belay on Lubyanka or combine with the next pitch for cleaner ropework.
4) 6a, 17m. From the right-hand end of the ledge make a mind-bending move to gain the hanging groove in the arete. Follow this with difficulty to a good ledge and another shared belay over on the left on a good spike.
5) 5c, 40m. The big one. Move up the slab above heading right below the big overhang/diagonal groove. Move right along here, stepping down slightly near the arete where the groove becomes more vertical. Regain the now-overhanging groove and bridge up in the most spectacular of positions until it eases into a slab. Continue on to a good belay above. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Top Five Pass E4's, North Wales Rock Graded List, Good E4s, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Billg's 2017 sweepstake list, Wales Ticklist, Definitive *** Llanberis

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
dbrooks 25 Jul AltLd led p2 and the outrageous top pitch. Had one slip seconding the 6a pitch. Mega day out.
led p2 and the outrageous top pitch. Had one slip seconding the 6a pitch. Mega day out.
abrooks 25 Jul TR dog Felt a bit like being carried up the three hard pitches by two more experienced climbers, but an epic experience!
with dbrooks
Felt a bit like being carried up the three hard pitches by two more experienced climbers, but an epic experience!
with dbrooks
Bristoldave 25 Jul AltLd Led p1,3 and 4. Had to have a quick rest near the top of p4
with Derwood, Aiden
Led p1,3 and 4. Had to have a quick rest near the top of p4
with Derwood, Aiden
ian bryant 5 Jul Lead O/S Trouble with route finding (our old guidebook meant we didn't know where we were til we were under the last pitch!) and so we did the corner pitch of lubyanka instead of the grooved arete pitch.
Trouble with route finding (our old guidebook meant we didn't know where we were til we were under the last pitch!) and so we did the corner pitch of lubyanka instead of the grooved arete pitch.
Andy Moles 22 Jun 2nd Just led the entry pitches. Found this really hard, the final groove is not a good place for impinged hips and an injured finger. I'd give all three pitches 6a.
with ferdia
Just led the entry pitches. Found this really hard, the final groove is not a good place for impinged hips and an injured finger. I'd give all three pitches 6a.
with ferdia
ferdia 22 Jun Lead O/S Discovered I'd left my shoes at home on reaching the crag! Seconded a route then dashed back to llanberis to get them. Airy second and third pitches. And hard.... Though my legs and feet were feeling the extra walk in!
Discovered I'd left my shoes at home on reaching the crag! Seconded a route then dashed back to llanberis to get them. Airy second and third pitches. And hard.... Though my legs and feet were feeling the extra walk in!
Hidden 16 May AltLd dog
Hidden 16 May AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
wolf.leeb 26 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S really really good route.. led top 3 pitches, pitches 3 and 4 together which was pumpy and hard. but what a finale... sensational.
with hosey
really really good route.. led top 3 pitches, pitches 3 and 4 together which was pumpy and hard. but what a finale... sensational.
with hosey
Duncan Campbell 7 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Mega! Led all the hard pitches. Linked the first 5c and the 6a pitch together as seemed logical (however tempting it may have beento belay!) these two pitches were very tricky imo. Thought the top pitch was mega, wild and no pushover!! Felt like a hard E4 altogether. Had tried this years ago but got midged off after the 1st 5c pitch though I didnt remember anything much about what I had already done.
with Ollie B
Mega! Led all the hard pitches. Linked the first 5c and the 6a pitch together as seemed logical (however tempting it may have beento belay!) these two pitches were very tricky imo. Thought the top pitch was mega, wild and no pushover!! Felt like a hard E4 altogether. Had tried this years ago but got midged off after the 1st 5c pitch though I didnt remember anything much about what I had already done.
with Ollie B
Ollie B 7 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S Led first 2 pitches but seconded with much grunting the meat of the route.
Led first 2 pitches but seconded with much grunting the meat of the route.
MikePycroft 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd dog Led 2 main pitch (dogged) Harder than I remember
with geoff b
Led 2 main pitch (dogged) Harder than I remember
with geoff b
geoff b 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S What a battle. Got there early to avoid the crowds but waited for the sun to get off the route at the start of the difficulties. P3 was steep but tamed by cams. P4 was so sharp I lost the feeling in my little finger & I was only seconding it! Had to rest on gear to get Mike's gear out & lower back down to climb it clean. I thought P5 would be over when I got to the bridging bit, but what did I know? What a battle that was; a super sustained pitch which I was very glad to reach the top of. And who left a turd on the crevasse stance???
What a battle. Got there early to avoid the crowds but waited for the sun to get off the route at the start of the difficulties. P3 was steep but tamed by cams. P4 was so sharp I lost the feeling in my little finger & I was only seconding it! Had to rest on gear to get Mike's gear out & lower back down to climb it clean. I thought P5 would be over when I got to the bridging bit, but what did I know? What a battle that was; a super sustained pitch which I was very glad to reach the top of. And who left a turd on the crevasse stance???
WB 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Amazing final 10 meters
Amazing final 10 meters
markalmack 24 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Lead all hard pitches. I thought the top pitch was the technical crux. Tricky little beast. Route was fully dry after 3 sunny days.
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Lead all hard pitches. I thought the top pitch was the technical crux. Tricky little beast. Route was fully dry after 3 sunny days.
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Mark Stevenson 4 Jun, 2018 AltLd G/U
Richard Kendrick 4 Jun, 2018 AltLd G/U Pitch 2,3,4 Linked the 3rd and 4th pitches together! Couldn’t use a hand hold because I’d put a bloody nut in the way! Moved the nut, lowered down and did it again. Geat route. Last pitch is the one to have.
Pitch 2,3,4 Linked the 3rd and 4th pitches together! Couldn’t use a hand hold because I’d put a bloody nut in the way! Moved the nut, lowered down and did it again. Geat route. Last pitch is the one to have.
harry_lewis 7 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf Fell off on the first 5c(?!) pitch, then it started to rain so bailed onto main wall. Definitely one to come back for
with Paddy Griffith
Fell off on the first 5c(?!) pitch, then it started to rain so bailed onto main wall. Definitely one to come back for
with Paddy Griffith
Hidden 18 Jun, 2017 2nd
Hidden 17 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Wil Treasure 17 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Keith Sharples 26 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Dirty and poor approach - ie first 2 pitches. P3 strenuous but well-protected although whilst leading I was constantly thinking about Dave Musgrove's epic! P4 and P5 were both tough and out-there. How anyone can think that these three pitches aren't fully deserving of 6a is beyond me... especially P4 and P5 which you really have to grind-out. Rock a bit worrying in places too...
Dirty and poor approach - ie first 2 pitches. P3 strenuous but well-protected although whilst leading I was constantly thinking about Dave Musgrove's epic! P4 and P5 were both tough and out-there. How anyone can think that these three pitches aren't fully deserving of 6a is beyond me... especially P4 and P5 which you really have to grind-out. Rock a bit worrying in places too...
Hidden 27 Aug, 2016 Lead
malx 14 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
papashango 29 May, 2016 AltLd very dirty throughout unfortunately. top pitch stunning nonetheless.
very dirty throughout unfortunately. top pitch stunning nonetheless.
Derek Ryden 29 May, 2016 AltLd dog Too early in the season for both the climb and me. Every pitch covered with loose green moss. Got well and truely spanked - had to frig all three of the hard pitches. Disappointed. We both felt that all these pitches were 6a on the day. Taking a brush next time!
with Conner
Too early in the season for both the climb and me. Every pitch covered with loose green moss. Got well and truely spanked - had to frig all three of the hard pitches. Disappointed. We both felt that all these pitches were 6a on the day. Taking a brush next time!
with Conner
Michael Allday 30 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Great Route First two pitches were very green, the fourth pitch was confusing didnt realise you start under the groove arete so traversed the face wall until i could reach the arete and move round it into the groove. definitely made for a bold lead. but the final pitch was great if not abit cold
Great Route First two pitches were very green, the fourth pitch was confusing didnt realise you start under the groove arete so traversed the face wall until i could reach the arete and move round it into the groove. definitely made for a bold lead. but the final pitch was great if not abit cold
Ed Babs 18 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead P2 & 4. Chuffed with P4 - really strenuous, but I found a knee bar that allowed a rest and gear placement half way through the crux.
with IainAM
Lead P2 & 4. Chuffed with P4 - really strenuous, but I found a knee bar that allowed a rest and gear placement half way through the crux.
with IainAM
James Oakes 29 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Fragmod
with Fragmod
Fragmod 29 Jun, 2015 2nd bad day at the office :(
bad day at the office :(
phil64 ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 AltLd
lanky 7 Sep, 2014 2nd
with Crook
with Crook
Hidden 23 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Uisdean hawthorn 23 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 2 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Absolutely incredible! Led all 3 hard pitches.
with James Mchaffie
Absolutely incredible! Led all 3 hard pitches.
with James Mchaffie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 29 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Pretty wild route, each pitch route rate as E4 6a in my mind (and not an easy one at that)
Pretty wild route, each pitch route rate as E4 6a in my mind (and not an easy one at that)
Luxulyan 25 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Tom Murrell
with Tom Murrell
Steve Crowe 21 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Stunning top pitch
with karin
Stunning top pitch
with karin
shed_hed 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd RP Amazing route! Led pitch 2. Got very cold belaying gwen on fnal pitch and set off with numb feet. Foot slipped on the last pitch just as I was latching the jug and I feel to the bottom of the groove with route stretch. Gutted but got back on and repeated all the hard bits on the pitch and the final move fine. Top class pitch.
with Gwen Lancashire
Amazing route! Led pitch 2. Got very cold belaying gwen on fnal pitch and set off with numb feet. Foot slipped on the last pitch just as I was latching the jug and I feel to the bottom of the groove with route stretch. Gutted but got back on and repeated all the hard bits on the pitch and the final move fine. Top class pitch.
with Gwen Lancashire
Rachel Slater 19 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Pitch 2 and 4. Last pitch was pumpy on my tired legs.
Pitch 2 and 4. Last pitch was pumpy on my tired legs.
tim newton 19 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S led the 5c pitches, the top pitch is one of the best I've ever done
led the 5c pitches, the top pitch is one of the best I've ever done
Rob Pitt 18 Jun, 2014 AltLd dog Fell off the 6a pitch... A few times. Arms fried from Cloggy the day before.
with Jo Bertalot
Fell off the 6a pitch... A few times. Arms fried from Cloggy the day before.
with Jo Bertalot
Hidden 18 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Si ?Sep, 2013 AltLd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?Sep, 2013 Lead dnf Had to bail due to midges!
with Si
Had to bail due to midges!
with Si
Toby Dunn 28 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Dave Pickford
with Dave Pickford
Misha 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd Brilliant! An amazing last pitch with a hundred metre void snapping at your heels, exciting even on second! Mike led the first hard pitch (bold, especially with that dodgy flake - putting gear behind it isn't a great idea, Mike didn't - then surprisingly strenuous. I got the crux and promptly fluffed it by doing it wrong in an overly strenuous way. Took four goes, on the last go I figures out the easy way - once again, being unable to read the route quickly let me down... Mike did the phenomenal top pitch - up till then it was a good route but that pitch made it brilliant. Boiling hot day so t-shirt weather on the crag.
with Mike H
Brilliant! An amazing last pitch with a hundred metre void snapping at your heels, exciting even on second! Mike led the first hard pitch (bold, especially with that dodgy flake - putting gear behind it isn't a great idea, Mike didn't - then surprisingly strenuous. I got the crux and promptly fluffed it by doing it wrong in an overly strenuous way. Took four goes, on the last go I figures out the easy way - once again, being unable to read the route quickly let me down... Mike did the phenomenal top pitch - up till then it was a good route but that pitch made it brilliant. Boiling hot day so t-shirt weather on the crag.
with Mike H
khawk 8 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
with datoon
with datoon
datoon 8 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
with K
with K
frank ramsay 6 Jun, 2013 AltLd Safer than lubyanka. Amazing top pitch. A quarryman groove for mortals.
with Aaron
Safer than lubyanka. Amazing top pitch. A quarryman groove for mortals.
with Aaron
Aaron Lines 6 Jun, 2013 2nd
The old James turnbull ?Aug, 2012 AltLd
with aiden
with aiden
Dan Arkle ??, 2012 Lead
Stone Idle ??, 2012 -
Hidden 29 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 -
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Marcus ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
dan gibson 5 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with nick bullock
with nick bullock
Luke Brooks 23 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with John Orr
with John Orr
soph 1 Jan, 2010 -
Hidden 2 Jun, 2009 Lead dog
mattyork2 31 May, 2009 AltLd dnf Horrible starting pitches led to the 5c pitch which seemed really dangerous with loose rock and very poor protection. Abbed off.
with Andy Reeve
Horrible starting pitches led to the 5c pitch which seemed really dangerous with loose rock and very poor protection. Abbed off.
with Andy Reeve
morganator 1 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
with soph
with soph
tuftynick ??, 2008 -
Sut 16 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2005 AltLd
Hidden 1 Jun, 2003 Lead
Hidden 11 Jul, 1999 Lead O/S
accynez ??, 1999 Lead
Dave Musgrove 30 May, 1997 Lead dnf The big loose flake at the top of the first hard pitch isn't there anymore. Neither are some of my fingers!!
with Nigel Baker
The big loose flake at the top of the first hard pitch isn't there anymore. Neither are some of my fingers!!
with Nigel Baker
Hidden ?Jun, 1996 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30 Jul, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Nick Ashton
with Nick Ashton
michael burrows 30 Jun, 1995 AltLd O/S 1 point of aid
with richard parry
1 point of aid
with richard parry
Neil McA 24 Jun, 1995 AltLd O/S Paul ran the first 2 hard pitches together and i did the top one - awesome pitch. we accidentally dropped the guidebook from the end of the final groove and it landed less than a foot from the packs at the base of the crag!
with Paul Pritchard
Paul ran the first 2 hard pitches together and i did the top one - awesome pitch. we accidentally dropped the guidebook from the end of the final groove and it landed less than a foot from the packs at the base of the crag!
with Paul Pritchard
Roget 6 May, 1995 Lead dog 1 rest on 6a pitch
with jon
1 rest on 6a pitch
with jon
pete johnson 6 May, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Hughie
with Hughie
Bulls Crack ??, 1995 Lead O/S
with RW
with RW
richparry ??, 1995 -
keefe ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 AltLd
duncan ??, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Dan Donovan
with Dan Donovan
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
Andy Edgar ??, 1993 AltLd Lead pitches 3 & 4 found the top pitch the crux!
with Hugh Woodland
Lead pitches 3 & 4 found the top pitch the crux!
with Hugh Woodland
Hidden ?May, 1990 AltLd
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Seymore Butt ??, 1990 AltLd
with Spuz
with Spuz
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
steveb2006 6 Aug, 1989 Lead Brilliant climb - only just hang on in there in the top groove.
with Simon Mee
Brilliant climb - only just hang on in there in the top groove.
with Simon Mee
andybirtwistle 23 Jul, 1989 AltLd
with Mike Arnold
with Mike Arnold
Hidden ?Jul, 1989 AltLd O/S
Will Webb ?May, 1989 AltLd
with Mark Cole
with Mark Cole
wynaptomos ?Jul, 1988 AltLd dog
Eduardo Martinez 18 Jun, 1988 Lead O/S
sadams 11 Jun, 1988 AltLd
with Andy Mitchell
with Andy Mitchell
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 15 May, 1988 2nd John led pitch 3 and 4 in one runout, I found it desperate with poor gear. When I arrived at the stance he looked up the top pitch and said your lead, I thought he was joking but no. It was akin to climbing a groove up the prow of a ship, some wild wide bridging led up to an old peg, stupidly I lassoo'd it from below bridged up to it and put my finger through its eye, it took me several minutes to calm myself down and leave go of it so I could properly clip a runner The position was awesome every time you looked to place your feet you were aware of a huge void!
with John Mckeever, Luke Steer
John led pitch 3 and 4 in one runout, I found it desperate with poor gear. When I arrived at the stance he looked up the top pitch and said your lead, I thought he was joking but no. It was akin to climbing a groove up the prow of a ship, some wild wide bridging led up to an old peg, stupidly I lassoo'd it from below bridged up to it and put my finger through its eye, it took me several minutes to calm myself down and leave go of it so I could properly clip a runner The position was awesome every time you looked to place your feet you were aware of a huge void!
with John Mckeever, Luke Steer
andy gittins ??, 1988 Lead
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??, 1987 AltLd
charlesmfrench 11 Jul, 1986 AltLd dog I had to rest on the top groove. Take lots of Rock #4's.
with Ian Milne
I had to rest on the top groove. Take lots of Rock #4's.
with Ian Milne
UKB Shark 14 Jun, 1986 Lead dnf Big fall when I pulled a hold off above the crux. Trevor Hodgson & Jimmy Jewel just above.
with Lucy Harris
Big fall when I pulled a hold off above the crux. Trevor Hodgson & Jimmy Jewel just above.
with Lucy Harris
keefe 1 Jun, 1985 -
with Johnny Adams
with Johnny Adams
Dave Turnbull ?Jul, 1984 Lead
Hidden 30 May, 1983 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1983 Lead
Ian Jones ??, 1983 Lead O/S Stayed up all night and was almost hallucinating at the top of this. Quite a trip. Quent fell off the top pitch and snapped one of the old pegs. I led the first two pitches. Great day out.
with Quentin Fisher
Stayed up all night and was almost hallucinating at the top of this. Quite a trip. Quent fell off the top pitch and snapped one of the old pegs. I led the first two pitches. Great day out.
with Quentin Fisher
clanger ??, 1983 AltLd
with Cliff Fanshaw
with Cliff Fanshaw
Andy Nicholson ?Aug, 1982 AltLd O/S
with Spike
with Spike
Hidden ?Jun, 1982 AltLd O/S
mitch1960 ??, 1981 Lead
with Alan Dance
with Alan Dance
Mark Kemball 26 Jul, 1980 AltLd Peg used on top pitch (wet).
with John Jefferies
Peg used on top pitch (wet).
with John Jefferies
Hidden ??, 1980 AltLd
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Phil Davidson 28 Aug, 1978 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 13 Jul, 1977 AltLd O/S
with Chester Dent
with Chester Dent
Hidden 19 Jun, 1977 AltLd
Steve Lewis 12 Jul, 1976 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
with sharpie
Steve Clegg 16 Apr, 1976 AltLd
with Pete W
with Pete W
petemeads ?Jul, 1975 AltLd I tried the crux free but could not avoid using 2 pegs (the standard at the time). Mick led the top pitch in fine style; I felt the guidebook drop out of my back pocket and watched it disappear forever as I followed...
with Mick Brady
I tried the crux free but could not avoid using 2 pegs (the standard at the time). Mick led the top pitch in fine style; I felt the guidebook drop out of my back pocket and watched it disappear forever as I followed...
with Mick Brady
Michael Allday ??, 0000 AltLd O/S Great Route First two pitches were very green, the fourth pitch was confusing didnt realise you start under the groove arete so traversed the face wall until i could reach the arete and move round it into the groove. definitely made for a bold lead. but the final pitch was great if not abit cold
Great Route First two pitches were very green, the fourth pitch was confusing didnt realise you start under the groove arete so traversed the face wall until i could reach the arete and move round it into the groove. definitely made for a bold lead. but the final pitch was great if not abit cold
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Voting
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Style of Ascent
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