256m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A sustained outing leading to the classic scramble of Terminal Arete. Start just left of the main central section of Heather Shelf.
1) 4a, 40m. Scramble up to Heather Shelf and a rock spike at its left-hand end. Follow the groove, forking right at its junction, to reach a ledge. A quartz band on the right leads to a stance below a grass ledge.
2) 4a, 23m. A short groove up and left bypasses an overhang. Climb to the ledge above and belay below a prominent V-groove.
3) 4a, 25m. Step out leftwards and climb the slab until moves back right lead to another ledge above the last belay.
4) 30m. Traverse rightwards to below an arete that is above a quartzy wall. Climb up this to a stance level with the grassy ledge on the left.
5) 30m. Follow the arete, flecked with ribbons of quartz, to a spike belay.
6) 35m. Easy climbing leads up and rightwards to a stance above the left-hand tip of the Great Terrace, below the...
Terminal Arete
7), 8), 9) and 10) 120m. From here, you continue up the arete in 4 long pitches. The climbing is Diff or less, but it is recommended that you remain roped up unless you feel confident and experienced enough to move together. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Hidden 26/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
poeter210 26/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
babymoac 08/Jul/17 AltLd
with nclarey
nclarey 08/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

An absolutely smashing day out. Weather looked a bit ominous but it ended up lovely. Approach a little bit dubious over quite sodden ground, and the approach to the shelf ended up being quite precarious, with some quite delicate scrambling. I ran together pitches 1-2, Andy ran together pitches 3-4 and then things got a bit vague and fuzzy. Ultimately we did it in roughly 5 before reaching Terminal Arete. Protection a little sparse on lower pitches, and the occasional bit of wet ground didn't make the going any easier. Quartz patches yielded reasonably clear directions. Quite a bit of crumbly rock in places, and several flakes that don't look like they're long for this world. Amusing goat adjacent to pitch 2 made for an entertaining diversion. Overall - definitely choose a dry day, and exposure/commitment mean not one to be undertaken until you're comfortable leading at least a clear grade above this level.

with Andy
Richard L 01/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1, 3, 5 and 7 onwards. Climbed in 9 pitches with rain from pitch 5

with Adam Doe, Phil Wallam
Hidden 01/Jul/17 AltLd
sparkybatteryboy 06/Aug/16 Lead

first 3 pitches perfect climbing. then becomes bit of an adventure. definitely a crag for after a few days of sun. relies on grass and mud shelves for belays.

ianbowles 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Lead, 1,3, 4 and 6. Good belays, nice day out, chose this over 'Avalanche/Red Wall/Longlands' as there was a queue! 'North Wales Climbs' description of route slightly off on pitch 6, appeared to be less than 10m to base of Terminal Arete, rather than 35? And to echo other logbooks; midges and loose rock are abound, just be aware

with Max Bardwell
j.anstee 04/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Lead on all hard sections. Pitched in 6!

Hidden 14/May/16 AltLd O/S
Pete Nugent 13/May/16 AltLd O/S

We thought this route was seriously undergraded, especially p1, (prob 4b) we could only find 2 poor runners in the whole pitch. A slip for the leader on p1 is liely to be fatal.Overall, this was quite a horror show

with John Venier
JackSnowden 17/Aug/15 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Shorty83 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Really good day out. Interesting climbing, some loose bits but it adds to the adventure as long as you're careful. Too many midges!!

Onion 02/Jul/11 2nd

Interesting day out, the route was described to us by a friend as loose, chossy, vegetated and hard to find your way up. All fair comments but they forgot to mention the midges, 21 bites on my right leg alone! Beware large loose blocks...

hlegge 04/Jun/11 AltLd
tcn_2002 04/Jun/11 AltLd
tcn_2002 04/Jun/11 AltLd

Faster than neighbouring simul climbers on VD

jmr 01/May/11 AltLd

Paradise formed a great expedition when joined up with the top six pitches of Horned Crag Route. It was made all the more challenging by the peculiar nature of the climbing and the sack on your back. Do not understimate the pioneers the guidebook says. True.

with Paul Greenhow
stevorobs3 ??/2011 Lead O/S

loose rock. lots of it towards the top but atleast 3 very good pitches!

benhearne 27/Jun/10 AltLd
ollyhorst 30/May/10 -
with paul smith
roverhead 30/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with rob aylward
bms 18/May/04 AltLd
with DW
Hidden 15/May/04 AltLd
nigehughes ?/Aug/00 AltLd
with Chris Kling
Rob Davies 01/Apr/97 Lead

Typical holdless slabby grooves

with Kim Davies
mikej 31/Jan/81 AltLd
with Mike Mason
Bolt Phobia 26/Jun/76 Solo

With Wil too

with Rob Collister
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