UKC

Rockfax Description
A stunning and totally mind-blowing line taking the groove in the steep arete. Start as for The Groove.
1) and 2) As for The Groove.
3) 6a, 40m. Move left and go up to a peg. Go up again and slightly left to a hole. Some scary bridging up the groove leads to the first overhang. Move right around this into a crack, peg. Carry on up the still-sustained groove on the right past another roof and go up to a peg. Climb the tapering groove to where you can move right to good holds where the angle relents. Head up for a few more metres to a sorry collection of pegs and traverse right to a better belay.
4) 4c, 22m. Move back left to the arete and follow it in a splendid position to the belay below the crevasse on The Groove.
5) 4a, 40m. As for The Groove. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Lonely Leads, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, Ultimate E5 ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Alex Mason 01/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Nick led grooves P1. I then led P2 of grooves straight into the main pitch ~45m. Take more than 2 long extenders, chronic rope drag from the rooves. What an incredible pitch! Go do it!

with Nick Bullock
Dan Vaj 12/Jun/15 2nd dog

Hard crux pitch.....dogged

with James McHaffie
The old James turnbull 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with will sim
soph 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Lee Cooper
Luke Brooks 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S

I tend to agree with the E5 grade in the ground up guide, pretty bold in the first half, and pretty sustained. Absolutely awesome route though!

with Konrad Doyle
Seymore Butt ??/2000 2nd
with Terry Holmes
Hidden 31/May/97 Lead O/S
phardman 04/Aug/96 AltLd
with Jon Bibby
pete johnson 16/Jul/94 2nd
with Steve Findlay
Hidden 03/Jun/85 AltLd
Hidden 27/Aug/83 AltLd
Mike Owen 05/Jul/83 Lead O/S
with Steve Foxley
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
7 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 6
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set