A stunning route with many challenging pitches. Start below a steep groove, directly below the imposing 'Great Arete'.
1) 5b, 25m. Ascend the groove to a ledge, make committing moves up the main groove to a hard section at about 2/3 height over a bulge. Gain the grassy terrace and belay below the next groove.
2) 5b, 20m. Head up the groove, enter the slick chimney section and exit to a slopy ledge. At the bulge, move onto the bubbled wall on the right and belay on a slopy ledge. Wire up high and peg on the right.
3) 5a, 18m. Move down and left to a spike-jug and traverse left to gain another groove on the left. Climb this for 10m to a semi-hanging belay on a good spike and wires.
4) 5a, 35m. Ascend the innocuous-looking groove to a grass ledge at its top.
5) 4c, 20m. Move up and right on the tremendously exposed wall and follow a flake up and right to a grass bay and belay below a crevasse.
6) 4a, 40m. Walk left to the rib and climb it. Caution needed with loose rock. Above the ground gets a bit more broken and you can carry on over several steps to belay in a broad grassy gully. Scramble out to a flattening and traverse off right. © Rockfax
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