Rockfax Description
A nice route although quite tough, just remember it used to get VS. Start by a left-trending ramp.
1) 5a, 40m. Head left up the ramp and into a thin groove. Move left into a deeper more defined groove and follow this to a steep slab on the right. Reach the cracks and psyche up for the exciting finale, a tricky layback to reach jugs and an easing of the climbing. Continue up to a belay just below the top.
2) 8m. As for Slab Climb. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The V.S.+ Ticklist, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Pete_Frost 26 Aug Show βeta
βeta: A bit of a rope-stretcher to reach the luxury belay on the boulder.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A bit of a rope-stretcher to reach the luxury belay on the boulder.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
pauldrew 25 Aug Lead Very good route, despite it looking slightly damp all the holds I used were dry.
with Dennis Wong
Very good route, despite it looking slightly damp all the holds I used were dry.
with Dennis Wong
Pete_Frost 25 Aug Lead O/S Clean, despite appearances. Very pleasant route.
with Nick Steen
Clean, despite appearances. Very pleasant route.
with Nick Steen
Hidden 23 Jul Lead O/S
Dave Rumney 7 Jul 2nd
with Mike Jones
with Mike Jones
foostu4 30 Jun Lead O/S
Scraggadoo 28 Jun Lead
Dave Parton 28 Jun 2nd
goshawk 26 Jun Lead
with Steve Meadows
with Steve Meadows
Adamtcurry 15 May Lead O/S Really nice route
with Will
Really nice route
with Will
lucybradbury 1 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with Evie Osborn
with Evie Osborn
paulsross 5 Aug, 2018 2nd Seemed very hard for the grade
with Gareth Edwards
Seemed very hard for the grade
with Gareth Edwards
wi11 5 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Jamie Barclay
with Jamie Barclay
Hidden 4 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
josefft 22 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
with NinaR
with NinaR
NinaR 22 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with josefft
with josefft
petegruf 22 Jul, 2018 Lead Me P1 Cem P2. Well protected with a hard finish to P1
with cem
Me P1 Cem P2. Well protected with a hard finish to P1
with cem
cem 22 Jul, 2018 2nd
mBob8 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Nice varied climbing. Was a bit unsure of route finding when faced with the hollow blocks below the 'twin cracks' upper crux... Thankfully good gear elsewhere and don't have to pull too hard on the suspect blocks.
Nice varied climbing. Was a bit unsure of route finding when faced with the hollow blocks below the 'twin cracks' upper crux... Thankfully good gear elsewhere and don't have to pull too hard on the suspect blocks.
Hidden 1 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 12 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
MarkFoster 11 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Corker of a route. Varied moves, good rock, plenty of gear. Top moves are tough but well protected. Just(but only just!) made it to the top belay on 50m ropes.
with Greg
Corker of a route. Varied moves, good rock, plenty of gear. Top moves are tough but well protected. Just(but only just!) made it to the top belay on 50m ropes.
with Greg
chriswood ??, 2018 -
Si Witcher 26 Aug, 2017 2nd
with HotlipsHoulihan, Sion
with HotlipsHoulihan, Sion
paul m hadley 31 May, 2017 Lead
Jayne E 16 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
with Jools
with Jools
superturbo 8 Oct, 2016 Lead
guy127917 8 Oct, 2016 2nd
Hidden 17 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
khalidq 17 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with Mikael Brudfors
with Mikael Brudfors
Ows 15 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Craigyboy13 5 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
with Delyth
with Delyth
Dave Warburton 30 May, 2016 2nd 5b
5b
K Farrell 30 May, 2016 Lead O/S Well protected, thought the last move was quite hard!
Well protected, thought the last move was quite hard!
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
neal 30 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Done in 1 pitch with 60m ropes.
with Chris S
Done in 1 pitch with 60m ropes.
with Chris S
benchwarmer 29 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with Jamie
with Jamie
harold walmsley 30 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S A very good climb with a well-protected finale that is quite tough for 5a
with Chris Calow
A very good climb with a well-protected finale that is quite tough for 5a
with Chris Calow
Matadoors 27 Jun, 2015 2nd
Hidden 27 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
TheaSmea 16 Jun, 2015 2nd
with Stopsy
with Stopsy
Stopsy 16 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Dan77 16 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Steve
with Steve
treesrockice 19 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S linked both pitches. fun not to "yoby"
linked both pitches. fun not to "yoby"
beckyjg 18 Apr, 2015 2nd
JamesWilliams 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Not as pumpy as the guide says, last move was the hardest. Good bridging and layback moves. Getting into the left facing corner at the bottom felt slightly bold
with beckyjg
Not as pumpy as the guide says, last move was the hardest. Good bridging and layback moves. Getting into the left facing corner at the bottom felt slightly bold
with beckyjg
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Kate Edhouse 16 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Lovely route, a hard move at the bottom stepping up the arete then wonderful jugs to the top!
with John
Lovely route, a hard move at the bottom stepping up the arete then wonderful jugs to the top!
with John
dan gibson 15 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S
Paul Baxter 27 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Nicely sustained. Ran both pitches together - lots of rope drag at the top
Nicely sustained. Ran both pitches together - lots of rope drag at the top
EeFu 27 Jul, 2014 2nd dog foot slip and fail to hang on to jug on top of layback flake
foot slip and fail to hang on to jug on top of layback flake
Sarahcrowsley 25 Jul, 2014 Lead
Hidden 25 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
Andy Clarke 23 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Particularly good moves at start and finish - committing reaches off high feet - but interesting throughout. A fine route.
with Johnny
Particularly good moves at start and finish - committing reaches off high feet - but interesting throughout. A fine route.
with Johnny
wynaptomos 19 Jun, 2014 2nd rpt
tmawer 15 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
BTphonehome 15 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Good route. Couple of tricky sections prepare you well for the high crux.
with tmawer
Good route. Couple of tricky sections prepare you well for the high crux.
with tmawer
ksjs 17 May, 2014 2nd O/S Superb, lovely rock and sustained interest.
with owen
Superb, lovely rock and sustained interest.
with owen
bigbobbyking 5 May, 2014 2nd O/S
with Chris Allan
with Chris Allan
chrisallan 5 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2014 Lead
Si ??, 2014 -
Nick Biven ??, 2014 -
steve prior ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Andy C
with Andy C
Mr Tickle 21 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led p1. HVS 5b
with davenev
Led p1. HVS 5b
with davenev
davenev 21 Jul, 2013 2nd
Hidden 17 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
jvarmstrong 14 Jul, 2013 2nd
with Chris
with Chris
Chris Manasseh 14 Jul, 2013 Lead
with John Armstrong
with John Armstrong
Hidden 12 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 12 Jul, 2013 Lead
Rob Evans ?Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Great climb, not to hard, top is easy if ur tall
Great climb, not to hard, top is easy if ur tall
kdalzell 9 Jun, 2013 2nd
with Matt Miller, Liam FLeming
with Matt Miller, Liam FLeming
CragDog 2 Jun, 2013 2nd
tim20 ??, 2013 -
stuart34 6 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
w-watson 13 Aug, 2012 2nd
brockers ?Jul, 2012 Lead
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 2nd
Shaw Brown 27 May, 2012 Lead
with Neil Harvey
with Neil Harvey
GPN 27 May, 2012 Lead
with net
with net
bobpilgrem 25 May, 2012 Lead O/S HVS 5a- as definitive guide-great route-steady all the way with a thoughtfull(well protected) crux at top.
with Tom
HVS 5a- as definitive guide-great route-steady all the way with a thoughtfull(well protected) crux at top.
with Tom
tompilgrem 25 May, 2012 2nd O/S
with Nick/D, bobpilgrem
with Nick/D, bobpilgrem
jezb1 12 May, 2012 AltLd Lead the main pitch. Really enjoyable climbing, never too hard. HVS 5a in my opinion.
Lead the main pitch. Really enjoyable climbing, never too hard. HVS 5a in my opinion.
guhj 27 Mar, 2012 2nd O/S Got cold belaying, so the first hard moves of pitch 1 were desperate, but moving warmed me up and looking back it was an amazing climb. :-) I hope I'll come back and lead this some day.
Got cold belaying, so the first hard moves of pitch 1 were desperate, but moving warmed me up and looking back it was an amazing climb. :-) I hope I'll come back and lead this some day.
khawk 25 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with datoon
with datoon
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
fatbuoybazza 12 Nov, 2011 Lead Even without the wet, green, slimey bits at the top crux this is HVS, bottom corner is tough too..
Even without the wet, green, slimey bits at the top crux this is HVS, bottom corner is tough too..
Bill Lawrence 1 Oct, 2011 Lead loved it, finished it just as the heavens opened, sweet route
with andy lawrence
loved it, finished it just as the heavens opened, sweet route
with andy lawrence
Adam Booth 3 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
martinazando 29 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
with al99
with al99
al99 29 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
edmitchell 3 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
john spence ?May, 2011 Lead
Pete Nugent 19 Apr, 2011 2nd Tough moves at the top -5b? Good gear so would give top end HVS.
with Matt Gordon
Tough moves at the top -5b? Good gear so would give top end HVS.
with Matt Gordon
smallerrich 10 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S I've done E1's that are easier! Bit green, probably because its early season, but a brilliant route.
with Bertie, Dan R
I've done E1's that are easier! Bit green, probably because its early season, but a brilliant route.
with Bertie, Dan R
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
djromberg ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden 26 Sep, 2010 2nd
Ian Jones 26 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2010 Lead
barni 23 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Renegade_Pony 23 Jul, 2010 2nd dog
with barni
with barni
catblack 25 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Given HVS 5a in new Ogwen Guide, felt more like VS 5a. Nice climbing, crux not as hard as I was expecting. Good gear all the way up. Watch out for some loose bits near the top crux.
Given HVS 5a in new Ogwen Guide, felt more like VS 5a. Nice climbing, crux not as hard as I was expecting. Good gear all the way up. Watch out for some loose bits near the top crux.
Andrew Barker 25 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
Glyn 21 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Greg
with Greg
jgrigson 13 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Jun, 2010 2nd
Hidden 27 May, 2010 Lead
Hidden 22 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hjort 19 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with JohnV
with JohnV
Liam FLeming 19 May, 2010 -
with MO
with MO
JohnV 19 May, 2010 2nd
with Hjort
with Hjort
Hidden 22 Apr, 2010 2nd
Ken Applegate 16 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1 which felt reasonably high in the grade. Good route!
Led pitch 1 which felt reasonably high in the grade. Good route!
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead O/S
chrisallan 15 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
theotherpetehill 15 Sep, 2009 Lead
bob johnson 6 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S This was a bonus as the rain was imminent - i did this climb many years ago and whilst i knew it was tricky i was surprised by how stiff it was - this was not helped by the loss of feeling to my fingers - yes it was that cold anyway well worth its grade i thought
This was a bonus as the rain was imminent - i did this climb many years ago and whilst i knew it was tricky i was surprised by how stiff it was - this was not helped by the loss of feeling to my fingers - yes it was that cold anyway well worth its grade i thought
decs 18 Aug, 2009 AltLd
with sgl
with sgl
simon_williams6 29 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
mynyddresident ?Jul, 2009 Lead
with geraint
with geraint
Rob Pitt 29 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Helen Pitt
with Helen Pitt
hepitt 29 Jun, 2009 2nd
with Rob Pitt
with Rob Pitt
Jon Pilling 9 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Si Williams
with Si Williams
mjeffery 10 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
francois 8 Jun, 2008 2nd
with Ben
with Ben
chris sm 8 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
with Pippa Froggatt
crag_monster ?Jun, 2008 Lead
Rob Davies 13 May, 2008 AltLd Finished up RH cracks
with Omer (BMC)
Finished up RH cracks
with Omer (BMC)
Hidden 12 May, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 3 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
JohnH1977 ?May, 2008 AltLd O/S
CharlieMack ??, 2008 Lead O/S
with Ben Angus
with Ben Angus
Hidden ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
2852tomki ??, 2008 AltLd
Sgt. Vest 15 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 11 Sep, 2007 2nd
with Dad/Phil
with Dad/Phil
chris wyatt ?Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
tim20 ?Jun, 2007 2nd
scorky345 ?Jun, 2007 Lead
with tim20
with tim20
TonyP 11 Apr, 2007 AltLd
with Dylan
with Dylan
Hidden 7 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Apr, 2007 2nd
zukator ??, 2007 -
gregoldridge ??, 2007 2nd
Hidden 10 Nov, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Nov, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hammy 14 Jul, 2006 2nd
with Ian Barker
with Ian Barker
sammoore ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Matt Seaman
with Matt Seaman
Dan 85 3 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
with Fiend
with Fiend
whispering nic 24 Apr, 2006 AltLd
with Graham Doig
with Graham Doig
winter_burn 19 Feb, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden 14 May, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Oct, 2003 2nd dnf
caradoc 16 Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
with john b
with john b
Hidden 8 Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
runestone 1 Aug, 2002 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1
Led pitch 1
Mark Davies PK ?May, 2002 Solo
with Fiend
with Fiend
Mark Riley ?Apr, 2002 Lead O/S
pigeonjim ??, 2002 AltLd O/S
Brown ??, 2002 Solo O/S
andy_pemberton ??, 2002 AltLd
with Jon Scorer
with Jon Scorer
Rog Wilko ?Jun, 2001 Lead Thought this was quite hard for VS.
with Debbie Wilkinson
Thought this was quite hard for VS.
with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden ?May, 2001 AltLd
Stone Muppet ??, 2001 -
Hidden ?Oct, 2000 -
zero six ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Jul, 1999 AltLd
BenTiffin 3 Sep, 1998 Lead
with Alex Bond
with Alex Bond
mikej 7 Jul, 1998 Lead
with Rachel W/E
with Rachel W/E
Mark Wright ??, 1998 2nd First Route with CMC.
with Steve Swygart
First Route with CMC.
with Steve Swygart
Hidden 4 Oct, 1997 Solo
michael burrows 22 Jun, 1997 Lead O/S
with steve ward
with steve ward
Hidden 14 Sep, 1995 Lead
Rob Davies ?Sep, 1995 Lead Finished up RH cracks
with Dave Ellis
Finished up RH cracks
with Dave Ellis
big 26 Aug, 1995 -
michaelb1 ?Jun, 1995 Lead O/S
with Dave Sheahan
with Dave Sheahan
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 18 Aug, 1990 Lead O/S
with John Buckley
with John Buckley
michael burrows 28 Aug, 1989 Lead O/S
with brian jones
with brian jones
NeilGriffiths ??, 1989 -
with Simon Ward
with Simon Ward
Hidden 19 Jun, 1988 Lead
wynaptomos ?Jun, 1987 Solo O/S
Ched ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Glyn
with Glyn
nigehughes ?Jul, 1986 Lead
with Adrian Hughes
with Adrian Hughes
Hidden ?Jun, 1986 2nd O/S
Brian Wilderspin 12 May, 1985 Lead O/S
with Mike Dennis
with Mike Dennis
Hidden ?Jun, 1984 Lead
Neil McA 8 Jul, 1979 Lead O/S
DonnyDave 20 Jun, 1978 AltLd
with Steve Holgarth
with Steve Holgarth
Mark Kemball ?Aug, 1975 Lead
with Bill Wheeler
with Bill Wheeler
Rick51 11 May, 1975 Lead
Jim Lad 25 Jul, 1967 AltLd Glyn &I put up the alternative finish we graded it VS sustained(see Cwm Idwal 1967)
Glyn &I put up the alternative finish we graded it VS sustained(see Cwm Idwal 1967)
18 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 47
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 44
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set