UKC

78m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An outstanding old classic which is still a fantastic, exciting and technical route today with run-out slabs and a burly groove.
1) 5a, 30m. Start as for Direct Route to where it moves left. Follow a groove rightwards to the left of the rock scar. Climb the left side of a flake, then traverse delicately right to a good stance under a small overhang, there is some better gear to the right.
2) 5a, 15m. Head straight up the right-hand side of the overhang to a good wire. Make a testing traverse right under the overlap to below the chimney. Ascend the chimney using the right wall and climb it to a small stance on the left in a thin crack.
3) 5a, 20m. Traverse right to a scoop. Climb this and go right to a mantel onto a ledge. Go up (pocket) to a crack then a stance.
4) 5a, 10m. Move up into the corner to where it gets hard and utilise the crack on the left to reach the top. This pitch responds best to a 'brute force and ignorance' approach. © Rockfax

Ticklists

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Feedback

User Date Notes
featuresforfeet 5 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lead all 4 pitches; 1. Fine, gear sparse but adequate 2. Didn’t find any gear from belay to roof; potential for a whipper straight onto belay 3. Got 2 size 1 nuts and a peanut in before the mantle, definitely bold though not super hard 4. More like 5b than 4c; Brandt Direct the day before was considerably easier
Show beta
βeta: Lead all 4 pitches; 1. Fine, gear sparse but adequate 2. Didn’t find any gear from belay to roof; potential for a whipper straight onto belay 3. Got 2 size 1 nuts and a peanut in before the mantle, definitely bold though not super hard 4. More like 5b than 4c; Brandt Direct the day before was considerably easier
Rowan Page 4 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Don't recommend first two pitches in a 1er
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't recommend first two pitches in a 1er
tbm 2 Jun, 2018 Show βeta
βeta: Top pitch is nails
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top pitch is nails

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 200
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 191
Votes cast 173
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Meshach

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))

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