78m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic, exciting and technical route.
1) 5a, 30m. Start as for Direct Route to where it moves left. Follow a groove rightwards to the left of the rock scar. Climb the left side of a flake, then traverse delicately right to a good stance under a small overhang, there is some better gear to the right.
2) 5a, 15m. Head straight up the right-hand side of the overhang to a good wire, and then make a testing traverse right under the overlap to below the chimney. Ascend the chimney with the help of the right wall and climb it to a small stance on the left in a thin crack.
3) 5a, 20m. Traverse right to a scoop, follow this and go right to a bold mantel onto a ledge. Go up (pocket) to a crack then onto a stance.
4) 4c, 15m. The main corner above is much tougher than it looks. Move up into the corner to where it gets hard and utilise the crack on the left to reach the top. This pitch responds best to a brute-force-and-ignorance approach. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Hard Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs.

Fat Andy Heff 13/Oct/16 AltLd

Last pitch was harder than 4c. I think I drifted right on the third pitch, ended up in the large crack.

with Droyd
Droyd 13/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Led 2 and 4. 4 is a hilarious sandbag, definitely more like 5b, and I can actually jam. Great route, but very cold.

Hidden 22/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
khalidq 22/Sep/16 AltLd rpt

Led pitches 2 and 4. Pitch 2 felt pretty insecure with numb fingers and toes.

with Ian Lau
Hidden 20/Sep/16 Lead O/S
lanky 18/Sep/16 Lead
with Drue
Hidden 17/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
DaveThexton 17/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Luke
Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead G/U
Jonathan Spooner ?/Sep/16 Lead
GStone 27/Aug/16 AltLd
with Marcus Harvey
C May 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1, Tim pitch 2. Top pitch as west rib as Rosie and Mike were on top of diagonal.

with Tim
Longsufferingropeholder 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Didn't really notice a mantle; just toddled up on flatties. Was it the little step on the right? Once you get going on P3 you're basically soloing.

with C May
Hidden 26/Aug/16 2nd
Jack Manfredi 24/Aug/16 AltLd
with Dad
Andrew Sloan 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2, 3 and 4. I think went off route on pitch 3 as I exited from the scoop on the right side of the slab quite soon; the guidebook description was not very clear. The top out is 5b, not 4c.

with pete
superturbo 14/Aug/16 AltLd

Led 2 and 4

Andy Moles 09/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Burton
burto 09/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with moleo
Hidden 07/Aug/16 Lead
Fiona Hughes 07/Aug/16 2nd
with SP
Hidden 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
shed_hed 31/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

P1&2. Did slightly hanging still after Ty Coch the night before. Nice climbing but not an abundance of gear. Fourth pitch was definitely the crux! Pretty slick and rapid ascent, contemplated doing another after but it was freezing in the wind!

robpartridge 31/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Darren McMaster
emgroves 23/Jul/16 AltLd
neal 21/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led p2&3. Could run these together. Cracking route, lovely holds. Peanuts and offsets useful.

with Nick T
Colin Scotchford 18/Jul/16 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
JenShelley 06/Jul/16 AltLd

I led 1,2 and 4

with Mike H
KRB 06/Jul/16 Lead O/S

First proper lead since having my smashed ankle re-built - the crux of the climb for me being the short walk up to the crag. Excellent route and excellent couple of days.

with Oliver Bridges
Mike Hewitt 06/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led P3. Felt thin and scary, but no way I could down climb so delicate moves to safety were in order. P4 was awkward.

Graeme Hammond 03/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led P 2 & 3, Excellent! bold but not as cool as expected.

rich_hw 03/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
BDC 22/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
jacob shieldhouse hadley 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

P1 and P3, last pitch is the hardest lol, placed only 2 bits of gear on p3!

with paddy
griffithpatrick 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led 2&4. ace

Graham Westbrook 03/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/16 AltLd
Hidden 15/May/16 AltLd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 06/May/16 AltLd
with Snort
sambeaumont 04/May/16 AltLd O/S


with Matt
Hidden 04/May/16 AltLd O/S
Adam Hill 23/Apr/16 2nd
with Simon
sarpedon 20/Mar/16 -

Led pitches 1 and 3 combined with 4. Compact rock with sparse gear e.g. 2 pieces for the 3rd pitch

Hidden ??/2016 -
MJS ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
John Bunney ??/2016 -
Nifec14 ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 -
joedean ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 AltLd
daveclarke5 27/Aug/15 2nd
with Stephen
joe.91 16/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Awesome route, got to be one of my favourite HVS's! Very absorbing climbing, lead pitch 2 and 4

David Kay 16/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

P1 + 3. Excellent and varied throughout. Managed to bridge my way out of the 'precarious mantle' move.

Adam24B 11/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Crux pitch was last pitch, if you keep moving I guess you wouldn't get too pumped but how it's 4c is beyond me.

Kris2fa 11/Aug/15 2nd dog
with Adam24B
Robb Bert 08/Aug/15 AltLd
Neilaw ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Kev
Hannes B 31/Jul/15 AltLd


with Neil C, Aidan
Chris Oldfield 18/Jul/15 2nd β
with James Buckley
Jack Manfredi 18/Jul/15 2nd
with mike ryan
j.buckley87 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
southern_smit 18/Jul/15 AltLd

interesting route with delicate moves on smaller gear

wilkinscl 10/Jul/15 -
hoppojoe7 ?/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
james1978 29/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with pam
Hidden 29/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/15 AltLd
Dawn_K_B 18/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Absolutely brilliant, led P1+3, which was probably the crux, terrifying but amazing

Hidden 16/Jun/15 AltLd
jimmatthews 16/Jun/15 AltLd

Aided last pitch - Sandbag!

SAF 15/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Lovely first 3 pitches, epic sandbag P4.

with Phil
Hidden 15/Jun/15 Lead O/S
kyaizawa 12/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Emma Reynolds 12/Jun/15 2nd O/S

P3 felt airy! Looked like a distinct lack of gear...

Pohil 10/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with SP
FreddieSmith 09/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Danny Grifths
Hidden 08/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
jalqazzaz 08/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
mapperley samurai 30/May/15 AltLd dog

All went splendidly until the final 10ft. Lead P2 &4. Let Blake finish P4. What a barstool at 4c.

Blake 28/May/15 AltLd

Last pitch is a sandbag... gets 4c in the rockfax guide - must be 'classic' 4c

Denry 21/May/15 2nd dog

Great climb in the evening after work. Great balancy climbing. Managed all the pitches cleanly until the last one where I had to rest on the rope due to my pathetic footwork!

Hidden 15/May/15 AltLd rpt
Ernests Cunculis 13/May/15 Lead
with Phillip Thomas
sgl0jd 23/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Mike Grant
Fragmod 21/Apr/15 Lead
JamesWilliams 17/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Really good and pretty bold, with yet another strenuous top pitch for the mot

with Becky
beckyjg 17/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 06/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
MDowson ?/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2015 -
Scooter Young ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 Lead
jcw ??/2015 -
Maddie 29/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and 2 as carried on miles past the belay by accident!

with Sam P
thrutch 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Sven
Hidden 26/Sep/14 AltLd
fuzzysheep01 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led 2 and 4

with Pierce Ferris
msoldn 15/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Sam (tree surgent)
grivers86 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Martyn Frost, David Whiteley
zcsharp 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
abtibbs 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Jamie Roberts
Hidden 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Julie Carroll 09/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Steve Gorton
georgenvk 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
atom 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

My first proper multipitch route and first time to Llanberis Pass. Definitely visiting again, one of so many wonderful lines here. The grade seemed bang on for a HVS overall but some of the technical grades for the different pitches where the wrong way round I thought, or maybe thats because I was exhausted by the last pitch. Thanks to George on route and Rebecca waiting bellow for their patience while I spent most of the day up there. Thoroughly enjoyed the whole Wales mini adventure

Mr Messy 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Sam
Hidden 05/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Offshore Andy (from bamford)
Andy Peak 1 03/Sep/14 AltLd

Super cool top pitc, and the rest isnt bad either.

with Dom
David_Gledson 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

I led p2 and 4. P2 and 3 are both pretty bold, great climbing!

Chriswallis2 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Joe Anglesey
Tim Hamlet 30/Jul/14 Lead
buxtoncoffeelover 22/Jul/14 2nd
with Luke
wi11 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S

In 2 pitches, led both. Harder than I was expecting!

with Tim
Mr Tickle 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Led all pitches. Lovely.

davebrox 21/Jul/14 AltLd
with Luke
CharlieMack 18/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3. Think I went a bit off on 3. Felt very bold.

with Dan Peers
jon22 12/Jul/14 AltLd
with kevin stephen
Steve Perry 09/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

P2&P4. Great climbing with a little bit of everything. If I'd been told the top pitch was 5b I would believe it. Classic.

with Simon
switch 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

1st pitch is a bit vague in line. 4th pitch prob 5b.

with Gaby L, Leanne
John Nuttall 02/Jul/14 2nd
with Helen
Helen Gibson 02/Jul/14 Lead

ohhh..so nice. led all pitches.

Lenny 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Phil .N
Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd
amccann 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 2 as one, then led final pitch on Calums gear when he backed off it.

Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S


with Tiff, Floris
julesmckim 28/Jun/14 AltLd

Amazing! Running two middle pitches together made it feel more like E1. Great climbing throughout

TiffTiff 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Sophie, Floris
Dan724 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant varied climbing. Would recommend it to anyone, my favorite route on the Nose of Dinas Mot so far.

with Vasco Bull
erbridger 24/Jun/14 AltLd

Pitch 1 + 3

with nedly14
ned_85 24/Jun/14 AltLd
Phill Mitch 23/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with gaz
smallerrich 23/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and 3. I would say that I've climbed better and harder routes at this grade...

tim.fairhall 23/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Matt
tim20 23/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jun/14 AltLd
jshields 21/Jun/14 AltLd

Repeat, done with Sarah early '90s.

with Paul Headland
Hidden 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Sardien 18/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

P3. Good to get this done finally

Jack93 17/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
spidermonkey09 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S

P1 and P3. Great techy climbing.

Ian Jones 15/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

Nice to revisit.

with Tim Clarke
cheeky 06/Jun/14 AltLd dog

Led pitches 1 and 3. What a lovely route. Found the first 3 Pitches okay. Top pitch was to much for me though.

mark4344 06/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route, every metre seemed hard won on thin moves. testing top pitch. led pitches 2+4.

with Matt Payne
Ed Booth 03/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

did top pitch of superdirect

anguskille 03/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

bold with some great climbing for the grade, lead pitches 1 + 3

kp64zl ?/Jun/14 AltLd

Great route. Had been wanting to do this one for years. Jug below the chimney on P2 is loose, disconcerting when I pulled up with all my body weight on it.

with Nick CC
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
ruairidhwad ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S


with Dawn Brinkman
rbharries 24/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Karren Mcintire
Martin Bagshaw 18/May/14 AltLd O/S

lead pitches 1, 3, and 4.

with Bryan Clary
tgeh 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
with dan geh
Dan Geh 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lovely positions, and great climbing on all pitches.

Hidden 14/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/May/14 AltLd
Hidden 02/May/14 AltLd O/S
Richardlake 21/Apr/14 AltLd dnf

Climbed up to first belay but backed off half way up second pitch. Not in the mood for it. Second pitch looked pretty intimidating...

will_lake 21/Apr/14 AltLd dnf
Lucylou19 30/Mar/14 2nd
James Jackson ??/2014 -
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
oliverpcain ??/2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
rbharries ??/2014 -
with karren MC
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with Phil Earl, Dave Woodcock
James Thacker ??/2014 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
Hidden ??/2014 -
Stefan_Morris 30/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

cold. very cold.

remus 30/Nov/13 Solo rpt

Quality route to solo, sustained interest all the way up. 29 mins top to bottom. Top cracks where scarier than expected.

Hidden 11/Oct/13 Lead
Ray Sparks 22/Sep/13 AltLd
with paul
beds74 22/Sep/13 AltLd

I did pitches 1,3,4. Top crack was tough, wouldn't have questioned it if it had been 5b, save the crux till the last 4 feet! Great route, varied. Good effort to Ray for giving it a bash.

with Ray Sparks
Glyn 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Amy
Amy UT 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Great climb, excepting the midges. Traverse under overhang (close do doing the splits) and final corner pitch (wedge, bridge and big reach for right hand jug) were the most exciting. Missed the mantel?

with Glyn
ashtond6 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Led p1 and 4 linked with superdirect. P4 is 5a

freemanTom 25/Aug/13 AltLd

Led first and 3rd pitch. Dithered on first as line not obvious and guys on super direct. 3rd pitch fun didn't notice the 'mantel' prob cos a rocked over onto it. Didn't feel 3 stars to me. Last pitch a brute

with Tristian
alp79 25/Aug/13 2nd

P1 - not at all enjoyable. Then superdirect, poss one of best routes ever!

Hidden 23/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
thomaspomfrett 20/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lead p2 & p4

with Pat Brien
andycash 19/Aug/13 AltLd dog

I lead Pitch 1 + 2 as I had already lead 1+3+4, Ash struggled at the top with a rest

with Ash
Ash Sayers 19/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
andycash 08/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Simon Cahill 07/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

WARNING THESE NOTES CONTAIN BETA. Andy lead pt 1, tricky crux move approaching the belay but nothing compared to what lies ahead, Simon pt 2, I found very hard, not 100% of best way to go, went to far right but did get a wire in, came back left got a 1/2 size wire (missed a bomber nut a fraction higher and further left), crack under and around the overhang yields very little in the way of holds or good pro, clipped an ancient wire and got a small off-set and small cam both marginal in the bottom of the vertical crack, hard moves up the right hand wall and later in the crack finally lead to a very welcome jug and belay stance. Pt3 Andy - this climb gets harder and harder and is now almost a solo and the hardest moves yet, Pt4 Simon/Andy Ok so now the easier pitch at 4c, An awkward unrelenting corner crack, difficult to get onto and then sustained to a small ledge at 2.5m, I couldn't pass the protruding flake so belayed and Andy lead through (fell onto gear then finished and that gets 4c)

samuel.stevens 06/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

P1 + P3

joeflan 06/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/13 -
Marq 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

MPPM Paul managed to drop two nuts and my nut key on the first two pitches, not an auspicious start to the day!

with Paul Scott
Dan Vaj 26/Jul/13 AltLd O/S


with Khalid
khalidq 26/Jul/13 AltLd

Highly memorable. Somehow, we spent 5 hours on this, bottom to bottom. I led 1st and 3rd. 1st fine, second took me forever needing full reserves to overcome the thin protection on hard (for me) moves. Tired, I was testing my abseil when Dan spotted that I had one of the tails in my belay. What a hero.

Hidden 25/Jul/13 -
WalnutHorse 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

P2 + P3

Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd
Louis Hume 20/Jul/13 Lead
MD 14/Jul/13 AltLd rpt

Led pitch 2 and pitch 4. This route is one of the most sustained HVS's I've done.

with Jo
Happy Wanderer 14/Jul/13 AltLd dog

Led 1st and 3rd pitch clean, just popped on the pumpy corner finish after Mike put gear both sides of the jutting block to add to the fun!

with Mike D
richiebongo 11/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

2nd and 4th pitches with Jon Dydimus.

Didymus 11/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led p1, p3 - cheeky pull on cam, last move of p4!

with Rich
Dr Toph 10/Jul/13 Solo O/S

Very cool, technical climb, spoilt only by a disturbingly flexing chalked-up jug, just below the 'chimney'. Its gonna blow one day soon. Agree last pitch also 5a, awkward.

gd303uk 07/Jul/13 AltLd rpt

A good route,exciting pitch 3 . Agree that the last pitch is a sandbag , didn't feel like 4 c. Fell at the last hurdle literally the last and only jug on the entire route was the one I chose to test my pro on ;) great fun , started pitch again and finished it clean. A great route, worthy of three stars.

Hidden 05/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 05/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 04/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 01/Jul/13 2nd

Only bought one rock shoe so seconded with one trainer on, technical! Not a lot of bomber kit. With a very HVS top pitch!

with Bubbles
robgixer ?/Jul/13 Lead
gripped01 30/Jun/13 AltLd

Scared myself

with Dave Tait
stuaart 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Only did crack pitch (P4) as we escaped onto this from The Direct Route which had a wet final pitch (P4). Absorbing crack climbing.

with Louise Atkin
Goodstuff 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1 and 3. Each pitch is worth 3 stars, just awesome.

Jonny Nick 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2 and 4. What a bloody brilliant route!

with eleytim
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

1 + 2 together, and 4... Good route, faffed around a bit with route finding on lower section! Top pitch very stiff for the grade... Typical Mot.

with Halla Parkin
Dafydd Llywelyn 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

1 + 2 together, and 4... Good route, faffed around a bit with route finding on lower section! Top pitch very stiff for the grade... Typical Mot.

with Halla Parkin
John Nuttall 05/Jun/13 AltLd
with Andy H
Bertbee 04/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

First and third pitch. Outstanding climb - stiff for grade considering the crux section? Crux on third pitch with airy delicate moves above cack gear. Moved right to the thin crack with a long reach to a pocket... Where is that mantle, though?

with Ben
Derek Ryden 04/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Glynne Andrew
fizzychewitt 02/Jun/13 AltLd
with Jayne
DaveMo 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

I lead slab pitch. gripped due to run-out.

with Jan
greenclimb 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Martin Haworth 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
redshapedfriday 24/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Bram
BTphonehome 24/May/13 AltLd O/S

Strong wind and a bit of rain made things interesting! Done as 2 pitches - bold lead by Graham P1&2, I took P3&4. Tough finish!

with Graham H
RM199 27/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Jonathan Hall 27/Apr/13 AltLd

Lead P2 and P4. P4 seemed pretty stiff.

ianstevens 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome run out P1, but nice and easy for 5a. P4 is horrific, utter sandbag at 4c. Started at 7(pm) and down by 10. Maybe being able to see would have helped for the last pitch! Take 60m ropes if you want an easy descent.

with Sam Wainwright
Samuel Wainwright 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Late start, luckily the last pitch requires no technique, so you don't need light!

with Ian Stevens
richiebongo ??/2013 Solo

Sometime in the 90's.

Nick Biven ??/2013 -
captain ??/2013 -
richpickford ??/2013 -
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2013 -
ojgrant 26/Oct/12 AltLd dnf

Had a mare, both of us got too cold to climb and Ben got fairly hypothermic and when setting up the abseil to retreat and was struggling to remember how to set it up! bit unnerving!

dj_brigham05 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S

1st pitch only

pete87abs 08/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/12 AltLd
Hidden 01/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
helenstuart 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
John Postlethwaite 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with liam
Hidden 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd dog
Alex Winter 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 and P4. Great route. Abseil ropes got jammed on descent. Jake abandoned them, causing catastrophic breakdown of climbing relationship.

Jake Young 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Mark R
jiles 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Alex Winter
mark20 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led P3

Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/12 -
Daymo 07/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
kitch22 18/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 & 3, brilliant pitches.

with John Proctor
claregardiner 02/Jun/12 Lead

This is a brilliant route, all pitches excellent quality :-)

richyg 02/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May/12 AltLd O/S
Ollie B 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Led all pitches. A bit windy but nice route. P3 was the toughest.

with N.Sommers
Richard Kemble 24/May/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P1, Seconded P2 into west rib after some poor navigation!!

with Lewis G
victim of mathematics 21/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2 (which was unsurprisingly bold). James ran P3 into the top pitch of West Rib after failing to remember where I told him to go...

James Oswald 21/May/12 AltLd O/S

ace, I went the wrong way after the finish. I also fell off the start trying to downclimb. Small (bomber) cam held and Colin had images of me ripping gear and flying down the crag...

with Colin Angus
brockers 20/May/12 Lead O/S

Led whole route. Superb HVS, a bit exposed on 2nd pitch, third was great fun, not that hard. Final pitch was an awesome thrutch.

Hidden 20/May/12 2nd
Hidden 09/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/May/12 -
jezb1 02/May/12 Lead

Awesome climbing. Lead P2 & P4. Cool delicate climbing until P4 which I struggled on! Old skool go for it moves up the crack. Got up it eventually, like to take my time and enjoy it sometimes!

Hidden ?/May/12 Lead
arandall 01/Apr/12 Lead dnf

did first two pitches then abbed off, was quite cold and tired so thought id save the rest of it for another day

ritchierich 25/Mar/12 AltLd rpt

Pitches 2 and 4 this time round.

with Vinny
vinspin 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with ritchie
hrgcb 25/Mar/12 AltLd
with John Chattaway
Stone Muppet 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Scotsken 20/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
JonG ??/2012 -
peterbeaumont ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Owen_P ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Steven Carter ??/2012 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with Mark Gration
piersg ??/2012 AltLd
Sam Simpson 19/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
alias dave 19/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
with Sam.EB
Liam FLeming 16/Oct/11 -

did pitch 2 of zeta instead of under the roof

with stuart lade
Alex.M-M. 15/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Noodles 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

A great route, late start late finish, led p1 and p3, P3 felt brutal for HVS!

Bennykr 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Nice climb. led P2 + P4

with Noodles
sara n 26/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Paul Wolf
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Different Steve 30/Jul/11 Lead rpt

Led all pitches

with Carol Fowles
Tom Keaveny 27/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

led 2nd and 4th

ollyroberts 27/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 and 3

with Tom
Ben Harper 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led first and last. DId a direct start through the rotten rock below to avoid crossing a party on superdirect. The first few metres of the direct start proved harder and more serious than it appeared! Excellent route.

with Ben Harper
CRiddiford 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

great fun topping put just in the 'light' after starting late! me p1and2,p4, becca p3

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Flipping nails! Led pitch 3 and was pretty terrified on the mantleshelf. Nearly came off pitch 4 - really pumpy. Finished with headtorch!

alexjz 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

lead 1st and 3rd pitch

with Matt Burdekin
AlistairB 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 2 & 4

with Lisa
LisaA 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S
john.gaffney 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with dan m
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Bill Lawrence 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

led 1st and 3rd pitch

with andy lawrence
Laurence Everitt 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Lead first 2 pitches

Trobbo 02/Jul/11 2nd
with tony hulme
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
ndraper1 ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
dan_o_b ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
M_W_Court 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Tim Brookes 27/Jun/11 -
Hidden 20/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
leon 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Led 1st & 3rd pitches. Probably left it too long before trying this route, felt too easy. Crux of the first pitch felt harder & more run out thatn crux of the 3rd. It was so windy & I was so cold on this route I bought a smock straight afterwards for the rest of the trip that I then didn't get to use. Chris did an excellent job of leading the 4th pitch.

with Chris Munton
catblack 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Lead all 4 pitches. Really not a 3 star classic. The 'bold' slab really isn't that bold and it feels like you bail in to the crack at the end of the 3rd pitch after only a few good moves? I did like the contrast of the final pitch!

Sardien 03/Jun/11 AltLd dog

Led P1 and P3 clean. Feel i didnt do this route justice by falling off the p4 seconding. And I fear i went off to the right too soon on P3 missing out the infamous mantle. Will definitely come back to do it properly

with Liam Kurmos
pie_eater_pete 03/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with ben smedley
bsmedz 03/Jun/11 AltLd
with Peter Sargent
HIGHTOWER 02/Jun/11 AltLd

Felt hard. Slabby stuf not really my style. Pulled on a bit of gear on the last pitch for speed as trying not to get benighted.

with Ruth
haydng 07/May/11 Lead dnf

Wimped out on the traverse on the first pitch shortly before it started pouring!

with Dave
Hidden 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
The_Boy_ODwyer 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1 and 3 (shallow groove. Excellent exposed slabby stuff :-)

with Rob
Karl Wooffindin 24/Apr/11 AltLd

Amazing route - lead pitches 1,3 and 4. Classic.

with Bryce Rigler
Hidden 22/Apr/11 AltLd rpt
jon_gill1 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

John P1 and P3 and i led the 2nd and 4th pitch.great route however i thought P2 was lacking in gear upto the roof for HVS.

ripper 22/Apr/11 AltLd
Katex 20/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Amazing route. I led pitches 2 and 4. Varied! Had a Cliffhanger moment on pitch 4, dangling from one arm like Stallone as my foot skidded off some green rock, but managed not to let go! The gear is pretty sparse until pitch 4.

with Simon Edwards
ian d f 20/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Mark
markfromstoke 20/Apr/11 AltLd
with Ian
sophiecb 10/Apr/11 2nd

Cool route, which sprawled wildly across the nose of this fortress like rock.

with Neil, James
tim newton 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Danjones 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Tim
Twisty 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Nice middle crux pitch, didn't realise I'd done the 'nerve racking mantle' until I got to easier ground. ***

with Byron Buck
Byronius Maximus 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Good, but not quite as good as I was expecting. Final pitch felt fairly tough.

centurion05 ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
JEP ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
clipskipper 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Very long runout above small and sparse gear on P3. Exposed for an HVS.

with John Orr
Mr Wild 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
jl 26/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with MIA Training
nai 15/Aug/10 AltLd rpt
with Tim
tlr 15/Aug/10 AltLd
with Pom
nakedave 15/Aug/10 AltLd
with Barney Crampton
Jacob k-d 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S

great varied climb with some fairly bold sections

remus 29/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

P1 and 3. Not a bad route. P3 was a bit of an anti climax though.

hardoreVdiffBen 29/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 and P4

with Remus
joese7en 27/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Adam Booth 23/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Roel
dan gibson 21/Jul/10 Solo
Hidden 27/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
mtempest 26/Jun/10 AltLd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 26/Jun/10 AltLd

Led 1st and 3rd pitches. The 2nd pitch was delicate, but I had good gear in at the bottom of the groove. The 4th pitch was steep, hard and sustained but well protected. Surely warrants 5a?

Mike Goldthorp 26/Jun/10 Solo rpt

Quite a spicy solo, especially the top pitch with all its smearing up the polished corner. Excellent climbing all the way!

jayrenegade 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Bloody hell. Led all pitches except the first. ran the third and fourth pitch together, not the best move when my only piece of gear in the crack fell out on the crux of the fourth. eek.

with Prav
Hidden 22/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
stuart34 22/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

P2, P3

with Jack Turner
Hidden 21/Jun/10 AltLd
jparry75 20/Jun/10 AltLd
with emlyn
twoplates 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

led 1 + 4, top route!

with dave sharpe, frith wood
greenroom 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

seemed pretty straightforward for grade

with Dave Sharpe, Tom Swannick
John Roe 18/Jun/10 AltLd

Led pitches 1 & 3

with Rusty Bale
Hidden 18/Jun/10 AltLd
liamoloughlin 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
martrin 17/Jun/10 AltLd
with Colin Smith
Hidden 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
roberto18 14/Jun/10 AltLd

Probably only got 10 bits of gear for the whole 4 pitches, great route though

Hidden 14/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
JWB 13/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Me: Pitch 1 and 3. Mike: Pitch 2 and 4. My first visit to Dinas Mot and what a stunning route. Fantastic.

with Mike Allen
Bristoldave 11/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Just led p1

with pete
Hidden 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
The Bad Cough 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
dan ely 04/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

lead p2 and then carried on of route till under p4

with rich
Lawrie Brand 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Olan
Hidden 31/May/10 2nd
Hidden 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/10 -
Jennyvs 26/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/May/10 AltLd O/S
tomhull 24/May/10 AltLd O/S
with matt harris
Hidden 24/May/10 AltLd
dickie01 22/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Julian King
Hidden 22/May/10 AltLd O/S
farmus21 19/May/10 AltLd

Really nice. Lead 2nd pitch, tricky at the grade.

with Ben Allsford
markfairbank 03/May/10 AltLd O/S

Alternative first pitch due to wetness, led P1 and P3. Top crack is abit of a handful for 4c!

with Ian Moore
Hidden ?/May/10 AltLd O/S
owain86 22/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led Pitches 2 and 4

with Chris
chriscarroll 22/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Owain
eugeneth 18/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
mlmatt 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Excellent route, ran P2 and P3 together making it a more fun expereince (by more fun I mean I was running out of runners). Final P was the crux for me as I have fat fingers!

with chris jones
mikeyg 06/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Did 2nd and 4th Pitch, Amazing!!!!!!

with Harry
Harry Thorpe 06/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1+3. Had a bit of an epic on P1, went much too high and made it a lot harder for myself!

with Mike Gadd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
DuckingFesperate ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
ed edwards ??/2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
mcgrathr ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
soph ??/2010 Lead
soph ??/2010 Lead
DanH9883 ??/2010 Lead
givemetea 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Sonya Crowe, Hannah Heywood
Hidden 26/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 26/Sep/09 2nd
troutbeck 15/Sep/09 AltLd
with A.M.
Liam FLeming 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with karen dalzell
sam820 11/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd and 4th pitches

with Lauren Newcomb
gazfellows 11/Sep/09 Lead

Lead all but the 3rd pitch

with shaun d
scorky345 10/Sep/09 AltLd

In the deep dark depth of night! Lovely climb

with Gareth, Owen Pearce
Bulls Crack ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

First did it in 1983?

with Simon D
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead
sinbad 16/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Mike Raine
cmsg 11/Aug/09 AltLd O/S


with Llewelyn Thomas
Hidden 08/Aug/09 AltLd
Hardcore Pat 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2 & 4.

with Chris Vanderz
vanderz 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
matt.woodfield 25/Jul/09 AltLd
Mike Goldthorp 02/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Just 2nd pitch, chiller vanilla

with Jono Hughes
chrisallan ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/09 AltLd dog
Kirill 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Led 1-st and 3-rd pitches. My foot slipped when seconding the last pitch and I weighted the rope a bit (didn't come off though). Still claiming the clean on-sight for the pitches that I led.

cem 13/Jun/09 AltLd rpt

Led p 2 & 4

mattyork2 03/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Johnny Richard
hervenuttall ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Christopher Lycett
Luke Brooks ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Luke Farrar
chrisallan ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Rob84 31/May/09 AltLd O/S

Top quality route - incredibly varied and keeps you on your toes the whole way.

with Chris James
Adam1973 31/May/09 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & P3

with Alex
Hidden 28/May/09 AltLd O/S
A Crook 25/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Ray Lindley
Hidden 07/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 25/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
babymoac 25/Apr/09 AltLd
Hidden 12/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Barry D 12/Apr/09 Lead
with Ian W
Jim Slater 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Led all 4 pitches.

Hidden 05/Apr/09 -
sgl 02/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with helena
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Matthew Scott-Chalmers ??/2009 -
Nick Sillem ??/2009 Lead O/S
Misha 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
MD 27/Sep/08 AltLd dog
with Doug
dicky79 21/Sep/08 AltLd dog

P2 & P4. Rested on top pitch.

with Nicola
Hidden ?/Sep/08 -
adam06 30/Aug/08 2nd

top pitch only.

hamish2016 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S

lead pitches 3 & 4.

with chris burn
Hjort 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Top pitch only, as top pitch of direct route was wet...

Hidden 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Tobes ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Simon MacDonald
steve2006 ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

i think andrew and I need to do better at route reading...

betamonkey 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Jonny Baker
Danhan 15/Jun/08 AltLd
with Nick
Hidden 15/Jun/08 AltLd
Ed Babs 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with John Vet
Hidden 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
irish paul 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Joyce
heather.deane 08/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Andy
Hidden 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
michael burrows 08/Jun/08 AltLd

lead the first pitch

Sarah Black 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Ian Andrews 08/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden 04/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Carly 04/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Richard
Abi Chard 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ian
tlmarjot ?/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Ben Freeman
Guy Wilson 29/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Rick Cotgreave
Nicos 29/May/08 Lead rpt
with frazer
Hidden 25/May/08 AltLd dnf
tim_mcd 25/May/08 AltLd dnf


bfreeman 24/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Tim Marjot
James B 17/May/08 AltLd
with Nick
Sgt. Vest 06/May/08 AltLd O/S
with james
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd
Hidden 16/Apr/08 Lead dog
lukehodson 21/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
with Harry Allan
porridgefan 19/Mar/08 AltLd dnf

a bad ass sleet storm at the crux of the third pitch meant we had to abseil off...damn!

with Gareth Borthwick
gareth scott borthwick 17/Mar/08 AltLd dnf

phil led the first pitch and i led the second it started to snow heavily as phil led the third pitch leaving the holds wet so we had to ab off.

with phil
CharlotteJelleyman ?/Jan/08 2nd

Great route, got some funny looks for starting after 2pm though, but got down at dusk. Quite tired by the last pitch and took two attempts for one of the last big moves.

with Matt Burdekin
Julian Wedd ??/2008 Lead
with A. Howarth
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
barni ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Si
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden ??/2008 -
drysori ??/2008 -
Wayne S ??/2008 Lead O/S

Alt pitches

Marcus ??/2008 -
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 04/Nov/07 AltLd O/S

Single pitched 1&2 and then pitch 4, all pretty sparse on gear but fairly easy moves once you've worked them out.

Nicos 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with rich mansfield
Hidden 19/Oct/07 AltLd
Hidden 07/Oct/07 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/07 2nd O/S
sammoore 11/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Tom Weston
HimTiggins 27/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2 & 4

with John
Nathan Kemp 21/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Matt cousins
Hidden 10/Aug/07 AltLd rpt
Rich Mayfield 10/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Dan 85 05/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Jonny
Bob M 05/Jun/07 2nd
OffshoreAndy 04/Jun/07 AltLd

Led pitch 3 - the infamous mantel pitch -

with UKC Dan
dan gibson 04/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
chrishedgehog ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Musgrove
frost ?/May/07 AltLd O/S
with N Griffiths
ritchierich 13/Apr/07 AltLd rpt
with Bob Dickson
pad-rat 09/Apr/07 Lead
bigbobbyking ?/Mar/07 2nd
with Chris Bull
Hidden 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
chris wyatt ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd O/S
tumbling wizard ??/2007 -
alasdair19 ??/2007 -

with Brian F

Dom Whillans ??/2007 -
clive-greenwood 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Damien LMC
My Gravity 09/Sep/06 AltLd O/S

Second pitch is a bit thin on gear and hence quite nerve racking. Enjoyable overall.

with Patrick H
Si dH 01/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

led pitches 1 and 3. Despite guidebook description, 1 much the harder. Quite scary and bold, also unfortunately dirty after rain.

with Neil Furniss
cat22 ?/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with Mike
steve prior ?/Aug/06 AltLd
with Andy C
Hidden 24/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
shoulders 18/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Mark A Humphries 07/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Me 1st and 4th pitches

with Jim
Stig 03/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
richardr ?/Jul/06 -
AngelaC 05/Jun/06 AltLd

AC 2nd

with Rob
Mike H 03/Jun/06 AltLd
with Jamie Smith
Hidden ?/Jun/06 -
bigphil 28/May/06 AltLd

Calum 1st, Phil 2nd (clean) & 4th (1 fall), Toby 3rd

with Toby & Calum
Obi-Wan is lost... 28/May/06 AltLd
with Phil & Calum
Brown 15/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
with Ralph
Owain Llewelyn 16/Jan/06 Lead
with Dad
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
PenJD ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Dave Evans
Hidden ??/2006 -
ritchierich ??/2006 AltLd O/S
cem 24/Sep/05 AltLd O/S

Led p 1 & 3

michael burrows 06/Sep/05 AltLd
Ed Booth ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

First HVS bricked it on 3rd pitch, absolutely awesome though.

Adam Booth 11/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 11/Jul/05 AltLd
Alex Mason ?/Jul/05 Lead

escaped the heat. good route i had the bold 3rd pitch got some shit gear in and went 4 it. clas tho wen i did the moves all the gear ripped id of had a 20m pendulum on my hands. kinda wish i fell.

david morse ?/Jul/05 AltLd
with chris todd
fellgazelle 27/Jun/05 AltLd O/S

Absolutely brilliant climbing

with George brimlow, Dave Fooks
mattyork2 ?/Jun/05 AltLd
with Rory Shawe
Hidden 14/May/05 AltLd O/S
r0b 14/May/05 AltLd O/S

Brrr, very cold. I did 2nd and 4th pitches.

with Andy Smith
clams ?/May/05 AltLd O/S

Just led P2

with AD
rc ?/May/05 AltLd
with Jim
Andy Campbell ?/May/05 2nd
with James
Christian Beck ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
mattnuttall 21/Mar/05 AltLd rpt
with Alan Holden
Ram MkiV ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Alex Mason
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd
marcoleptic ??/2005 Lead
with Pete
topsyturvy ??/2005 AltLd O/S


with Rob Sykes
Hidden ?/Dec/04 AltLd O/S
steve mee 05/Sep/04 AltLd
with Paul Taylor
bazois 08/Aug/04 AltLd O/S

Superb if scary in 50 kt winds!

with John Moorehead
Hidden 13/Jul/04 Lead O/S
climbtim 11/Jul/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/04 AltLd
samwelli 07/Apr/04 AltLd O/S
with Steve Hobbs
Ben1983 ?/Mar/04 AltLd dog
steve mee ??/2004 AltLd O/S

Went a bit wrong on p3...went left after the mantle to a second, very thin, mantle. Scary! Great route...sod of a top pitch.

with Matt Halls
James B 28/Sep/03 -
with Phil
Hidden 09/Aug/03 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Jon Pilling ?/Aug/03 AltLd dog

Fell on final pitch

with Ben Hardy
Jon Pilling ?/Aug/03 AltLd dog

Fell on Pitch 4

with Ben Hardy
chris sm 14/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
BIgYeti86 ?/Jun/03 AltLd
Shaw Brown ??/2003 AltLd O/S

Busy route!

with David Jones
Si01 ??/2003 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/02 2nd O/S
unfit 05/Aug/02 AltLd
with ruth
Hidden 05/Aug/02 AltLd
Mark Davies PK ?/Aug/02 AltLd
with Fiend (on multipitch!?!)
Mark Davies PK ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Fiend
nige pacer ?/Jul/02 -
Different Steve ?/May/02 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Rupert Holbrook
Brian Rodgers ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Liz Scott
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden ?/Jul/01 -
markpollak ??/2001 -
with suzanne mcfadzean
rapidrich ?/Jul/00 2nd O/S
with Dennis & Katie
csalvage 24/Jun/00 2nd O/S

Very hungover and shaky

with Bryan
mike lawrence? 01/Jun/00 Lead
pipboujalay ?/Jun/00 Lead
with james
Hidden 13/Feb/00 Lead O/S
ArnaudG ??/2000 -
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
with Carl
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
alan moore ??/2000 -

Brilliant Birtwhistle. Suitably screwed up with the fear.

Paul Figg 29/Aug/99 Lead
timreynolds 13/Jun/99 AltLd
with Chris Lodge
RobSimmo 31/May/99 AltLd dog

Lead P2, Failed on P4, seconded P1, 2 & 4 cleanly.

kato'sdad 31/May/99 AltLd
Hidden ??/1999 -
lost.arrow 29/May/98 AltLd
with Tim Malone
Phil West 19/Mar/98 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 2 in Guide Tennies. We both attempted pitch 4, but got thwarted - I was only 3 or 4 feet from the top! Downclimbed this pitch and I led us out on the final pitch of the Direct Route.

with Steve Wild
Chad123 ??/1998 AltLd O/S
with Greg
Hidden 10/Aug/97 AltLd O/S
liabilityliz 24/Jun/97 2nd
with Nick Dixon
Chris Ellis 30/May/97 AltLd

Have now led every pitch

with Louise Pellett
John Pickles 28/May/97 Lead O/S
with Dave Elliot
Ratfeeder 01/May/97 AltLd rpt

led pitches 1 & 3

with Phil
BenTiffin ?/May/97 AltLd
with Andy Bissell
mikelaing ??/1997 AltLd
with Phil Abram
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1997 -
Laramadness ??/1997 Lead O/S


with Steve Munton
andyblain ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
DavidR 24/Jul/96 2nd O/S
with John Marston
Paul Boardman 21/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
with Iain Boardman
iskra2000 16/Jun/96 2nd

Led last thuggy pitch.

with Alex Payman
Hidden ?/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
BruceW ??/1996 AltLd O/S
with Keith S.
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/95 AltLd rpt
rob.grafton 13/Aug/95 AltLd dnf
with Bruce
IanGilbertJones 30/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Jon Read ??/1995 AltLd
leathers ??/1995 AltLd O/S
rurp ??/1995 Lead
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
ColdAndWet ??/1995 -
Bullybones ??/1995 -
Hidden 06/Aug/94 AltLd O/S
JiveWeasel 23/Jul/94 AltLd
with Al H
Chris Ellis 19/Jul/94 AltLd
with Dan Morgan
babymoac 16/Jul/94 AltLd
with cash, Rodders
Hidden 19/Jun/94 Lead O/S
Budge ??/1994 AltLd O/S

Hard Top Pitch

with Richard Teed
Hidden 12/Jun/93 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jun/93 AltLd
rob.grafton 28/Jun/92 AltLd
with Bruce
stuart100 20/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
Andy Fielding 20/May/92 AltLd
with AL
mikedelderfield 16/May/92 AltLd O/S
ste_d 15/May/92 AltLd O/S
with mik
auld al ?/May/92 AltLd O/S
Marti999 ??/1992 AltLd O/S
WB ??/1992 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
adi bryant ??/1992 -
with Tim
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
whispering nic 01/Sep/91 -
with Ali W
Hidden 07/Jul/91 AltLd
Roget 22/May/91 AltLd O/S
with colin, jon
Hidden 28/Apr/91 AltLd
Hidden 28/Apr/91 AltLd O/S
prcleary ??/1991 Solo
nai 25/Aug/90 AltLd
with Cal
andrew300169 ?/Aug/90 -
with Pom
Dave Rumney 28/Jul/90 -
pingora 11/Jul/90 AltLd O/S
with Bankhead
lithos ?/Jul/90 -
with dave stokes
Jelly Mould Surfer ?/Jul/90 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 (5a), Al

Hidden 29/Jun/90 AltLd O/S
Stoney Boy 13/May/90 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2 & 4

with Colin Hughes
Pete_Frost 05/May/90 Lead O/S
surfbish ?/May/90 Lead O/S
Big Rik 01/Jan/90 Lead O/S
with Dave Body
Nick Rundall ??/1990 AltLd O/S

I lead the mantleshelf pitch

philhilo ??/1990 -
philhilo ??/1990 -
richparry ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Big Rik ??/1990 AltLd O/S
with Tim Payne, Dave Body
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
DaveHo ??/1990 Lead

Done pre UKC in the 80's or 90's and are on a tick list.

michael burrows 23/Jul/89 AltLd rpt

led 1st and 3rd pitches

with pete roberts
Tony Buckley ?/Jun/89 AltLd
Hidden 20/May/89 2nd O/S
Andy Say 06/May/89 Lead
Hidden 05/May/89 AltLd
Ratfeeder ?/May/89 AltLd rpt

led pitches 1, 3 & 4

with Nige M
BigHairyIan 15/Apr/89 AltLd O/S
with Tufty (Stewart Moffat), Mike Gibbison (Hairy)
Gambit ??/1989 Lead O/S
with Barney
freeheel47 ??/1989 AltLd
Grezza ?/Nov/88 Lead O/S
NickJH ?/Aug/88 AltLd O/S
with I Smith
phardman 18/Jun/88 AltLd
goi.ashmore 14/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with Dave Forster
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/88 AltLd

Led 3rd (5a - crux) and 4th (4c but felt harder), Martin led 1st 2 pitches, both 5a. Awesome exposure on the 3rd pitch

with Martin
Hidden 16/May/88 Lead
andy gittins ??/1988 -
Loumush ??/1988 2nd β
Steve Crowe ?/Sep/87 Solo O/S

Pitch one

Gary Coggon 13/Jul/87 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 (5a) & 4.

with Simon Purdy
Hidden 11/Jul/87 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/87 AltLd
michael burrows 28/May/87 AltLd O/S

led 2nd and 3rd pitches

with pete roberts
wynaptomos ?/May/87 Solo rpt
wynaptomos ?/Sep/86 Solo O/S
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
John HW ?/Jul/85 Lead
with Julie
MikeYouCanClimb 07/Jun/85 Lead
with Dave Dowson
GuyM ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Hidden 08/Sep/84 Lead
AlanLittle 18/Aug/84 AltLd
with Dave Hall
Greg Cunningham ?/Aug/84 AltLd
with Jacko
Richard Weller 06/Jul/84 AltLd
with james eldridge
John Marsland 17/Mar/84 AltLd
with Guy Beaumont
Gezzer ??/1984 -
with Merv Dudley
Richard Weller ??/1984 Lead


with james eldridge
Robmwatt ??/1984 -
Hidden ??/1984 AltLd
Mark Kemball 06/Nov/83 2nd
with Paul "Curly" Williamson
sadams 19/Aug/83 AltLd
with Plas y Brenin Course
Bob 02/Jul/83 AltLd O/S
with S. Stean
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
charlesmfrench 28/Oct/82 Lead O/S


with Nick
mikej 02/Sep/82 Lead
with Tony Waite
Brian Wilderspin 16/Aug/81 AltLd
with Steve Gough
The Reaper 02/Aug/81 AltLd O/S
tapley 18/Jul/81 AltLd
with Chris Seymour
Hidden ?/Apr/81 Lead
GordonHart ??/1981 Lead
with James Taveran
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Mick Tolley
duncan ?/Jul/80 AltLd O/S
TonyF ?/Jun/80 Lead O/S
with Paul Harrison
Mike Owen 29/May/80 Lead rpt
with John Perham
Falko 01/May/80 AltLd O/S
with Chris Astill (Shilling Rabbit)
Nevil ?/May/80 AltLd
with Steve
PaulHermes ??/1980 -
robinsi197 ??/1980 -
with Barbara
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
steveboote ??/1980 Lead

With Al Scott

Hidden ??/1980 AltLd O/S
andybirtwistle 22/Aug/79 2nd
with Ian Kyle
neil3965 01/May/79 AltLd

Led 2nd pitch

with Adam Kassyk
Bruce Kerr 17/Apr/79 Lead
with Brian Carson
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Ken Taylor 30/Sep/78 AltLd
with Jonathan Lagoe
Andy Nicholson ?/May/78 AltLd O/S
with Hugh ACKROYD
Hidden 22/Apr/78 AltLd
Ian Jones ??/1978 Lead O/S
with Chris Newton
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1978 AltLd
with Alan Walmsley
Andy Chubb 23/Sep/77 Lead
with Saxon Ridley
GeoffG 17/Sep/77 AltLd
with tony bowker
Mike Owen 28/Aug/77 Lead rpt
with Elaine Watson
Nic Robinson 02/Aug/77 AltLd O/S
with Paul Greenland
Mark Kemball 29/Jul/77 AltLd
with Paul Clark
jmr 16/Jul/77 AltLd

A most superb route. Remember doing the mantleshelf into pocket: not as sparsely protected as expected.

with Gerry Ashton
Mike Owen 17/Jun/77 Solo rpt
Rob Davies 04/Apr/77 Lead

P4 was a struggle

with Mick Wilkins (CUMC)
Hidden ??/1977 Lead O/S
GeoffG 17/Jul/76 AltLd
with tony bowker
Mike Owen 10/Jul/76 AltLd rpt
with Pete White
Hidden 02/Jul/76 Lead rpt
GeoffG ?/Jul/76 AltLd
with tony bowker
Hidden 26/Jun/76 AltLd
mikej 14/Jun/76 Lead
with Tony Waite
Steve Lewis 09/May/76 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
Derek Ryden ?/Apr/76 AltLd O/S
with Glynne Andrew
Marcus ??/1976 -
Hidden ??/1976 2nd
Hidden 03/Sep/75 AltLd
Nigel Bond 01/Aug/75 AltLd
with Dave Humphries
Mike Owen ?/Aug/75 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
RichardMc 14/Jun/75 Lead
with Betty Seifert
Bolt Phobia 14/Jun/75 AltLd
with John Broadwell
Hidden 20/May/75 AltLd
petemeads ??/1975 AltLd
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
Andy Edgar ??/1975 Lead
mikej 18/Jul/74 Lead
with Mike Byles
D Tempest ?/Jul/74 AltLd
with Chris
Woolly ??/1974 -
Dave Musgrove 30/Jun/73 AltLd
with John Midgley
Sean Kelly ?/May/73 -

Repeated with Alan Payne & John Hynes in the late 80's, early 90's.

with Barry Linsey
pneame ??/1973 -
Steve Clegg 19/Jul/72 AltLd
with Chris H
Martin Bennett 01/Oct/71 -
with JD
Hidden 25/Sep/71 AltLd
Tom V ?/Jun/71 -
with Paul O'Hara
Gordon Stainforth 02/Aug/70 AltLd O/S

'Serious and unremitting'

with Tim James
ill_bill 21/Jun/70 Lead

first big HVS lead,

with Martin Bown
mikej 16/May/70 Lead
with E
lump'o'lead ??/1970 -
Dave Musgrove ??/1969 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
Dave Westby ?/Aug/68 Lead O/S
with Phil Caley
Hidden 17/Jun/67 Lead
Hidden 05/Feb/67 AltLd
uphillnow ??/1963 AltLd

Hadnt led much HVS and had no knowledge of the route.I did the 2nd 5a pitch, didnt like it overmuch but got committed and did it. Climbed on a number of occasions since

with chris boulton
oldmanofmow 01/Apr/60 Lead

Great climb with Mike Hillman. I didnt think the groove is as hard as the long pitch on West Rib. Struggled on the top pitch. Mike climbed it and "rescued me".

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 141
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 133
Votes cast 119
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set