Rockfax Description
Practically ungradable, it will be impossible for the claustrophobic. Start below a deep slot that runs up and left across the cliff in steps.
1) 9m. Move up behind the monolith and squirm away until you can escape out of the top and belay.
2) 9m. Ascend the chimney, which is no pushover, to belay on a ledge below the final slot.
3) 11m. Face right and slither into the depths of the chimney. Somehow make upwards progress to be reborn through a hole behind a chockstone. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Through Routes!, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, AMC Uni Ticklist, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, Thrutch and Clutch, Type 2 Fun, Michelle's crack ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Hard Very Silly - wet troglodytes

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Moody Loner 29 Jul Show βeta
βeta: HVF - Hard, Very FUN. Apart from the fact that you need to be born in the 3rd pitch crack just to get into it (we had no chance), this is one of the funniest 2nd pitches you can do; squirm, wriggle, shuffle, inch and laugh your way up, only to ab off whilst telling yourself that you'll lose some weight, remove a few ribs and grease up like a cross-channel swimmer for a return attempt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: HVF - Hard, Very FUN. Apart from the fact that you need to be born in the 3rd pitch crack just to get into it (we had no chance), this is one of the funniest 2nd pitches you can do; squirm, wriggle, shuffle, inch and laugh your way up, only to ab off whilst telling yourself that you'll lose some weight, remove a few ribs and grease up like a cross-channel swimmer for a return attempt.
Tadams 23 May Show βeta
βeta: NOT FOR THE ROTUND! Pitch 3 only went near-naked and bowline round waist - udge low to back of chimney. Well protected throughout by simply breathing in deeply.
 
Show beta
βeta: NOT FOR THE ROTUND! Pitch 3 only went near-naked and bowline round waist - udge low to back of chimney. Well protected throughout by simply breathing in deeply.
PastyBoy84 14 May Show βeta
βeta: An unconventional adventure! The grading of this route is massively dependent on your squeeze chimney/off-width/caving ability. There is a 4th pitch also, taking you to the top of the crag for an easier/safer walk-off. Don't take this one lightly. Also bring a head torch!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An unconventional adventure! The grading of this route is massively dependent on your squeeze chimney/off-width/caving ability. There is a 4th pitch also, taking you to the top of the crag for an easier/safer walk-off. Don't take this one lightly. Also bring a head torch!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Moody Loner 27 Jul 2nd dnf
lucybradbury 14 Jul AltLd O/S P2 = Upwards breastroke. P3: As the largest member of the team I went first. It took me many attempts to enter the void, including having to remove my coat and untie because the knot got stuck. Far too much fun in a scary sort of way, I would argue that this route is ungradable, shame about the polish :(
P2 = Upwards breastroke. P3: As the largest member of the team I went first. It took me many attempts to enter the void, including having to remove my coat and untie because the knot got stuck. Far too much fun in a scary sort of way, I would argue that this route is ungradable, shame about the polish :(
emilyhewison 14 Jul AltLd O/S Crazy (very) little adventure! "I'm breaststroking up the chimney" (© Lucy) the whole way up, involving a chaotic ledge wee, frozen nipples, dropping gear in a lot of stupid places, surprisingly bendy hips, wedged heads and a whooooole lot of squeezing. Strawbs for fuel!
Crazy (very) little adventure! "I'm breaststroking up the chimney" (© Lucy) the whole way up, involving a chaotic ledge wee, frozen nipples, dropping gear in a lot of stupid places, surprisingly bendy hips, wedged heads and a whooooole lot of squeezing. Strawbs for fuel!
Guy Harris 14 Jul AltLd
AndyPandy55 30 Jun AltLd dnf Read the topo wrong and couldn't figure out P2 and bailed. Oh well. Great route otherwise. Would happily go back to finish it off
with wjvt
Read the topo wrong and couldn't figure out P2 and bailed. Oh well. Great route otherwise. Would happily go back to finish it off
with wjvt
wjvt 30 Jun AltLd dnf Bit of a naff attempt to be honest. I attempted to lead P2 but ended up facing the wrong way and eventually gave in and let Andy lead it. Got confused about the Topo (as others have said in rockfax P2 is drawn as both P2+3) so we didn't even try and slither into the chimney, and after watching Andy try and offwidth the start for half an hour we decided to bail off a bit of tat. All in all, 3 star route, would have a miserable time on it again
Bit of a naff attempt to be honest. I attempted to lead P2 but ended up facing the wrong way and eventually gave in and let Andy lead it. Got confused about the Topo (as others have said in rockfax P2 is drawn as both P2+3) so we didn't even try and slither into the chimney, and after watching Andy try and offwidth the start for half an hour we decided to bail off a bit of tat. All in all, 3 star route, would have a miserable time on it again
Hidden 23 Jun 2nd dnf
Hidden 22 May AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 May AltLd
Happyguyme 19 May Lead dnf
PastyBoy84 13 May 2nd O/S A slog fest of a chimney snurgle! More caving than climbing.
A slog fest of a chimney snurgle! More caving than climbing.
Rob Hirst 13 May AltLd O/S
fatchild 22 Apr Lead O/S
MysteriousCeorl 21 Apr AltLd Pitch 1 and 3. With great style and finesse... and a lot of grunting
with Ginger ed
Pitch 1 and 3. With great style and finesse... and a lot of grunting
with Ginger ed
rumblesan 20 Apr Lead O/S Led all three pitches. Hilarious fun all the way.... For me at least. Possibly unfair of me to inflict it on Will and Jake. I managed to squeeze into the crack and then chimney up. Will had some difficulties, but put up an impressive fight and some clever rope work finally helped him up the outside of the crack and into the wider upper section. Jake climbed the first pitch, and then after a bit of a fight with the second decided to back off.
Led all three pitches. Hilarious fun all the way.... For me at least. Possibly unfair of me to inflict it on Will and Jake. I managed to squeeze into the crack and then chimney up. Will had some difficulties, but put up an impressive fight and some clever rope work finally helped him up the outside of the crack and into the wider upper section. Jake climbed the first pitch, and then after a bit of a fight with the second decided to back off.
Lumbering Oaf 19 Oct, 2018 AltLd dnf Led P2. We thrutched up to the base of P3, but couldn’t fit in the crack! I don’t think I’ve been thin enough to get in a space that small since I was 8 years old. Decided to abseil back down as it was cold and getting late in the day. Fewer pies for next time!! Off widths - tsk!
Led P2. We thrutched up to the base of P3, but couldn’t fit in the crack! I don’t think I’ve been thin enough to get in a space that small since I was 8 years old. Decided to abseil back down as it was cold and getting late in the day. Fewer pies for next time!! Off widths - tsk!
Chimnastics 19 Oct, 2018 AltLd dnf Totally sandbagged. Rockfax should inform you that the original 3rd pitch is impossible unless you have the build of a 12-year-old boy. We simply couldn't fit in the crack. I considered climbing the opening as an off width, but it would have been very, very hard, with no gear whatsoever. I wasn't aware there were some variation pitches to get around this, but not really bothered, as the whole climb should have been about that final chimney. Rubbish.
Totally sandbagged. Rockfax should inform you that the original 3rd pitch is impossible unless you have the build of a 12-year-old boy. We simply couldn't fit in the crack. I considered climbing the opening as an off width, but it would have been very, very hard, with no gear whatsoever. I wasn't aware there were some variation pitches to get around this, but not really bothered, as the whole climb should have been about that final chimney. Rubbish.
Jodiaway 10 Oct, 2018 AltLd
Max Streeton 10 Oct, 2018 Lead G/U Bypassed second crack pitch as looked to narrow to get in and unprotected in the outside.
Bypassed second crack pitch as looked to narrow to get in and unprotected in the outside.
mrphilipoldham 27 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Never has “three stars for the experience” been more apt! A route that provided laughs in abundance, just for the sheer audacity. There should be a sticker at the bottom warning fatties (anyone over a 30” waist) not to bother.
Never has “three stars for the experience” been more apt! A route that provided laughs in abundance, just for the sheer audacity. There should be a sticker at the bottom warning fatties (anyone over a 30” waist) not to bother.
devious wally 27 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Put up a good scrap this, proper offwidth madness. Hilarious
Put up a good scrap this, proper offwidth madness. Hilarious
Flynn_Simpson 1 Sep, 2018 Lead dnf
poeter210 1 Sep, 2018 Lead
with druss
with druss
mattyr 1 Sep, 2018 Lead G/U Did pitch 1 & 2 as a single pitch. Pitch 2 is easier facing right for footholds. Pitch 3 was toooooooooo narrow. Went around the front and took the otherwise enjoyable arête to the right. Ended up going to the very top as a ropes scramble in the end.
Did pitch 1 & 2 as a single pitch. Pitch 2 is easier facing right for footholds. Pitch 3 was toooooooooo narrow. Went around the front and took the otherwise enjoyable arête to the right. Ended up going to the very top as a ropes scramble in the end.
Hidden 1 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
SophDory 1 Sep, 2018 2nd
with mattyr
with mattyr
jammy4536 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Very dependent on hip size... This will either be enjoyable, or decidedly unenjoyable depending on which side of that dimension you fall. Plenty of excellent small gear, so don't worry about cams or such, let alone a helmet!
with zcsharp
Very dependent on hip size... This will either be enjoyable, or decidedly unenjoyable depending on which side of that dimension you fall. Plenty of excellent small gear, so don't worry about cams or such, let alone a helmet!
with zcsharp
zcsharp 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S In retrospect and some research it turns out Jamie lead both horrible chimneys described in the rockfax guide, the Topo was misleading. Better him than me!
In retrospect and some research it turns out Jamie lead both horrible chimneys described in the rockfax guide, the Topo was misleading. Better him than me!
Amy Sinnott 15 Jul, 2018 2nd dnf First chimney route. Great fun (although may have gone through the wrong cave in order to start the route). Facing chimney to right- use knees, bum, back and feet to side and cha cha slide- it's tight! Best part- reaching the fallen stone to inch up onto and sit on before belaying from this point. However the second chimney was beyond us with how the hell to get into it. We took the alternate route (for those over the normal body mass range) to detor to the left of the pinnacle to top out and then onto an interesting scramble route out and back down.
with AOC, Aodan
First chimney route. Great fun (although may have gone through the wrong cave in order to start the route). Facing chimney to right- use knees, bum, back and feet to side and cha cha slide- it's tight! Best part- reaching the fallen stone to inch up onto and sit on before belaying from this point. However the second chimney was beyond us with how the hell to get into it. We took the alternate route (for those over the normal body mass range) to detor to the left of the pinnacle to top out and then onto an interesting scramble route out and back down.
with AOC, Aodan
AOC 15 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd dnf
cassiacopeland ?Jul, 2018 2nd
liamhughes1981 24 Jun, 2018 2nd dnf What...I mean what..... Severe.....o_O.....just no. Has anyone actually completed this craziness?!
What...I mean what..... Severe.....o_O.....just no. Has anyone actually completed this craziness?!
Mats1902 24 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Bailed at P3
Bailed at P3
KiranCrawford 13 Jun, 2018 2nd dnf
with Ben Collins, Sam Peel
with Ben Collins, Sam Peel
Hidden 6 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
Flavio 29 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S No stars? It's obviously *** and pure quality. Sorry fatty, boom, boom. :)
No stars? It's obviously *** and pure quality. Sorry fatty, boom, boom. :)
JendeHoxar 29 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Hidden 5 Apr, 2018 Lead dnf
Hidden ??, 2018 -
jonathandavey 28 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Too fat for the top chimney, a first for my skinny frame! May return with butter/washing up liquid.
with Malte
Too fat for the top chimney, a first for my skinny frame! May return with butter/washing up liquid.
with Malte
roryj 24 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Could not fit inside second chimney - will have to try harder next time! Went up the right arête instead (De Selincourt's variation).
with dewieh
Could not fit inside second chimney - will have to try harder next time! Went up the right arête instead (De Selincourt's variation).
with dewieh
dewieh 24 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Free soloed the first pitch, as there was no protection in sight. The second pitch involves two chimneys, the first of which we fought up. The second was aborted by Rory who was climbing lead, as he couldn't fit. We therefore climbed around which can't have been much easier, then I proceeded to free solo the fourth and final chimney as there was also no protection available. Ridiculous and brilliant route, I will be back!
with roryj
Free soloed the first pitch, as there was no protection in sight. The second pitch involves two chimneys, the first of which we fought up. The second was aborted by Rory who was climbing lead, as he couldn't fit. We therefore climbed around which can't have been much easier, then I proceeded to free solo the fourth and final chimney as there was also no protection available. Ridiculous and brilliant route, I will be back!
with roryj
Hidden 5 Aug, 2017 Lead rpt
JackSewell1997 9 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Seconders couldn't do it
with Tim, Berty
Seconders couldn't do it
with Tim, Berty
Ian.ch 8 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf Lead pitch 1; scrambly squeeze, easy enough. Tom lead pitch 2, good lead, I seconded *relatively* comfortably, which had me heartened for pitch 3. Got shutdown by the chimney. I could make upward progress when I deflated my lungs, so I breathed out, thrutched my mini-arm bars frantically to gain approximately 2inches vertical per 5minutes effort. My best progress was a couple of feet. Numerous rests on chest jam were taken between upward flurries. Hilarious abseil down pitch 2. Now reading other reports on here it seems perhaps I should have tried to go up then further into the corner. Will be back, unfortunately.
with Emma M, LovelyMrTom
Lead pitch 1; scrambly squeeze, easy enough. Tom lead pitch 2, good lead, I seconded *relatively* comfortably, which had me heartened for pitch 3. Got shutdown by the chimney. I could make upward progress when I deflated my lungs, so I breathed out, thrutched my mini-arm bars frantically to gain approximately 2inches vertical per 5minutes effort. My best progress was a couple of feet. Numerous rests on chest jam were taken between upward flurries. Hilarious abseil down pitch 2. Now reading other reports on here it seems perhaps I should have tried to go up then further into the corner. Will be back, unfortunately.
with Emma M, LovelyMrTom
LovelyMrTom 8 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf Ian lead pitch 1, I lead pitch 2. Emma couldn't get up pitch 2 so lowered her off. Ian spent sometime trying to get established in pitch 3, upward progress was measured in inches, eventually gave up and backed off instead of wasting the full day!
Ian lead pitch 1, I lead pitch 2. Emma couldn't get up pitch 2 so lowered her off. Ian spent sometime trying to get established in pitch 3, upward progress was measured in inches, eventually gave up and backed off instead of wasting the full day!
Jmpollard 5 Jul, 2017 Lead rpt Bloody hell. Better than last time but still an absolute fight. Managed to offwidth up the outside of the crack before squeezing in and chimneying up. Had lots of chicken wing rests. I've done E2s that felt easier!
Bloody hell. Better than last time but still an absolute fight. Managed to offwidth up the outside of the crack before squeezing in and chimneying up. Had lots of chicken wing rests. I've done E2s that felt easier!
Hidden 5 Jul, 2017 2nd
Hidden 21 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
skinne 31 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Alarmingly tight top pitch, stolen by Joe after my first three attempts (slithering on the floor, then one arm length off the ground, and standing) to enter the chimney ended with me wedged. After watching Joe waltz in, and then suffer his way up (and down and up and down and up) it, I managed to force myself in by standing on tip toes, and slightly chimneying off the ground to find the subtle widening to allow me entry to the dark, dirty corner at the back. Then the fun continued as every manner of chimneying and weirder methods (a swami/yoga cross legged position was very effective for one or two feet of the climb) were used to gain upwards progress to emerge to the bright, bright world. We then found a continuation chimney above for more unnecessary traditional climbing. It exhausted and may have changed both of us, and we refer to life BC/AC - Before Chimney/After Chimney. (Ps as someone else mentioned, the photo in the N Wales book is misleading: the picture shows the third pitch beginning at a tree on a ledge, where the pitch actually ends at that ledge (but not at the tree). Crush your pelvis, lose some weight, and do this!
Alarmingly tight top pitch, stolen by Joe after my first three attempts (slithering on the floor, then one arm length off the ground, and standing) to enter the chimney ended with me wedged. After watching Joe waltz in, and then suffer his way up (and down and up and down and up) it, I managed to force myself in by standing on tip toes, and slightly chimneying off the ground to find the subtle widening to allow me entry to the dark, dirty corner at the back. Then the fun continued as every manner of chimneying and weirder methods (a swami/yoga cross legged position was very effective for one or two feet of the climb) were used to gain upwards progress to emerge to the bright, bright world. We then found a continuation chimney above for more unnecessary traditional climbing. It exhausted and may have changed both of us, and we refer to life BC/AC - Before Chimney/After Chimney. (Ps as someone else mentioned, the photo in the N Wales book is misleading: the picture shows the third pitch beginning at a tree on a ledge, where the pitch actually ends at that ledge (but not at the tree). Crush your pelvis, lose some weight, and do this!
JoeFoster59 31 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Hahahahahahahahahahahahahh absolutely hilarious route. I was only meant to the lead the second pitch (which was no push over) then when eric couldnt fit into the third pitch I thought I 'd take a look. Unfortunately I managed to fit in and found myself at the back of the chimney. Its the first time I've ever stared intensely into the black in hope some non polished holds and non wet holds would appear. Slung a block as my pro but what it do you'll just get trapped if you fall. After some offwidth technique, sheer lanking, determation and what felt like 9 days of effort I emerged from the top. Such an awesome experience no training possible for this you just have to be anatomically correct. Brilliant
with skinne
Hahahahahahahahahahahahahh absolutely hilarious route. I was only meant to the lead the second pitch (which was no push over) then when eric couldnt fit into the third pitch I thought I 'd take a look. Unfortunately I managed to fit in and found myself at the back of the chimney. Its the first time I've ever stared intensely into the black in hope some non polished holds and non wet holds would appear. Slung a block as my pro but what it do you'll just get trapped if you fall. After some offwidth technique, sheer lanking, determation and what felt like 9 days of effort I emerged from the top. Such an awesome experience no training possible for this you just have to be anatomically correct. Brilliant
with skinne
stephheels 14 May, 2017 2nd
Hidden 5 May, 2017 AltLd dnf
nodwas 2 May, 2017 Lead dnf Got dark and couldn't fit in the top pitch!!!
with suds_01
Got dark and couldn't fit in the top pitch!!!
with suds_01
suds_01 2 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Led p1 and p3 couldn't fit in the crack finished in the dark
with nodwas
Led p1 and p3 couldn't fit in the crack finished in the dark
with nodwas
foobar123 13 Nov, 2016 Lead dnf Lead p1 then backed off p2 due to dampness / lack of gear. It was great fun though, so I'd definitely like to return in nicer conditions and while not wearing my nice waterproof jacket!
with Mia de los Reyes
Lead p1 then backed off p2 due to dampness / lack of gear. It was great fun though, so I'd definitely like to return in nicer conditions and while not wearing my nice waterproof jacket!
with Mia de los Reyes
Hidden 12 Nov, 2016 Lead dnf
UncleMephisto 13 Oct, 2016 AltLd dnf Office life must be taking it's toll as neither of us could fit in the main chimney. Going fast and light (ie. forgetting the entire rack) made the outside option less than appealing. Quickly becoming our nemesis!
Office life must be taking it's toll as neither of us could fit in the main chimney. Going fast and light (ie. forgetting the entire rack) made the outside option less than appealing. Quickly becoming our nemesis!
Andyjharper 14 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S Absolutely horrendous, climbed zig zag with iza and descended to find hatch stuck on p2 of monolith, scrambled up and swapped with jo, both struggled up p2 and got wedged horizontally, p3 was too narrow and wet, outer face looked mental, abbed off
with Dave Hatch
Absolutely horrendous, climbed zig zag with iza and descended to find hatch stuck on p2 of monolith, scrambled up and swapped with jo, both struggled up p2 and got wedged horizontally, p3 was too narrow and wet, outer face looked mental, abbed off
with Dave Hatch
Hidden 12 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Jul, 2016 AltLd dnf
Jmpollard 24 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S As an aspiring chimney aficionado, this route is brutal! Pitch one is a laugh and so is pitch two, but what the hell is pitch 3?! None of us fit in the crack so Hamish led up the outside part and then I tried to second the chimney. Ended up offwidthing it as I couldn't fit in and never made it past the overlap! Fair play anyone that makes it up the p3 chimney, maybe it would have gone better in shoes...
with Ben Jones, Hamish Stephen
As an aspiring chimney aficionado, this route is brutal! Pitch one is a laugh and so is pitch two, but what the hell is pitch 3?! None of us fit in the crack so Hamish led up the outside part and then I tried to second the chimney. Ended up offwidthing it as I couldn't fit in and never made it past the overlap! Fair play anyone that makes it up the p3 chimney, maybe it would have gone better in shoes...
with Ben Jones, Hamish Stephen
Harry Ellis 13 Jul, 2016 AltLd Gary wouldnt fit in the 3rd pitch so I led the outside right option. James got the 'pleasure' of seconding up the inside with much grunting!
with Gary Papworth, james gibson
Gary wouldnt fit in the 3rd pitch so I led the outside right option. James got the 'pleasure' of seconding up the inside with much grunting!
with Gary Papworth, james gibson
shed_hed 5 Jul, 2016 Solo O/S So traditional! So polished! Glad it was dry! Quite good fun once I realised that you can't fall out even if you try to (I'm not sure it would make any difference if this was horizontal rather than vertical). Bit of a squeeze, glad i didn't have gear to get in the way!
So traditional! So polished! Glad it was dry! Quite good fun once I realised that you can't fall out even if you try to (I'm not sure it would make any difference if this was horizontal rather than vertical). Bit of a squeeze, glad i didn't have gear to get in the way!
Mark D 3 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Fantastic recommendation with delightful climbing!
with Tom Green, Rosie Henstock
Fantastic recommendation with delightful climbing!
with Tom Green, Rosie Henstock
Rosie Henstock 3 Jul, 2016 2nd rpt 2nd time on this route and it found it much less of an ordeal. Mark did a good job of squeezing into Pitch 3 given he has the biggest chest of all of us!
2nd time on this route and it found it much less of an ordeal. Mark did a good job of squeezing into Pitch 3 given he has the biggest chest of all of us!
TGreen 3 Jul, 2016 2nd rpt
pistal10 28 May, 2016 Lead dnf Solo pitch 1 (easy climbing through the hole), battled up pitch 2, pitch 3 is ridiculous! Couldn't fit in the crack and the face is nails! came down off the fixed gear...
with Adam Crouch
Solo pitch 1 (easy climbing through the hole), battled up pitch 2, pitch 3 is ridiculous! Couldn't fit in the crack and the face is nails! came down off the fixed gear...
with Adam Crouch
Rosie Henstock 14 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
with TGreen
with TGreen
TGreen 14 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
cameronr11 16 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S P2+3. Definitely type 2 fun, not sure I've climbed anything remotely like this before. Tight squeeze for p3, my partner couldn't fit so had to come up the outside and I had to ab into the crack and retrieve the gear and reclimb it. Not one I'll forget in a hurry, head jams, knee bars and awkward chimneying
P2+3. Definitely type 2 fun, not sure I've climbed anything remotely like this before. Tight squeeze for p3, my partner couldn't fit so had to come up the outside and I had to ab into the crack and retrieve the gear and reclimb it. Not one I'll forget in a hurry, head jams, knee bars and awkward chimneying
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
Eryri_Runner 18 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S
Tom Draude 11 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
chris cockbain 11 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S tight
tight
Hidden 14 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
static266 29 Jun, 2015 Lead dnf First 2 pitches only
First 2 pitches only
griff5800 21 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
adamre12 18 Apr, 2015 AltLd dnf James P1, me P2. Couldnt fit into the final chimney at all, had to ab off. Shame really because P3 looked really good...
with JamesA
James P1, me P2. Couldnt fit into the final chimney at all, had to ab off. Shame really because P3 looked really good...
with JamesA
Hidden 14 Apr, 2015 AltLd dnf
Hidden 28 Feb, 2015 2nd dnf
Alex Wade 28 Feb, 2015 Lead dnf Fun into through cave, which would have been much easier without a harness and gear. Entertaining struggle with the chimney on 2nd pitch, couldn't fit inside chimney on 3rd pitch. Tried climbing outside right to cut back in, but then the weather came in so bailed.
Fun into through cave, which would have been much easier without a harness and gear. Entertaining struggle with the chimney on 2nd pitch, couldn't fit inside chimney on 3rd pitch. Tried climbing outside right to cut back in, but then the weather came in so bailed.
Samuel Wainwright 22 Feb, 2015 AltLd dnf In a total blizzard. After an icy tussle we broke the second pitch but snow pouring down the chimney forced a retreat. We'll be back!
with Rafe Osborne
In a total blizzard. After an icy tussle we broke the second pitch but snow pouring down the chimney forced a retreat. We'll be back!
with Rafe Osborne
UncleMephisto 21 Feb, 2015 AltLd dnf Grade A misery. Wrestling a pig in a paddling pool of warm butter would be easier. Bring your sense of humour along for this one.
Grade A misery. Wrestling a pig in a paddling pool of warm butter would be easier. Bring your sense of humour along for this one.
Tim Sparrow ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
beeney 28 Sep, 2014 2nd Ridiculous!
with TomGB
Ridiculous!
with TomGB
TomGB 27 Sep, 2014 Lead dnf just about cursed my way up p2. Nowhere near fitting into the chimney on pitch 3. Ridiculous, only the cadaverous need apply.
just about cursed my way up p2. Nowhere near fitting into the chimney on pitch 3. Ridiculous, only the cadaverous need apply.
Binder 20 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Brilliant! Pretty scary jamming myself into the crack, but a reassuring widening at the back.
with Andrew R, Tubs, Tim C
Brilliant! Pretty scary jamming myself into the crack, but a reassuring widening at the back.
with Andrew R, Tubs, Tim C
Tubs 20 Sep, 2014 2nd β Nearly had a panic attack when I got wedged horizontally. Obviously 3 stars.
with Binder
Nearly had a panic attack when I got wedged horizontally. Obviously 3 stars.
with Binder
M000W 7 Sep, 2014 2nd
Bill Lawrence 7 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
with Dave, Mick, rob cooper, andy lawrence
with Dave, Mick, rob cooper, andy lawrence
wi11 2 Sep, 2014 Solo O/S Hardest climb I've done all year!
with Sabby
Hardest climb I've done all year!
with Sabby
Keiran O'Mahony 17 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Couldnt fit into pitch three, Tom went in and seconded up the outside of the crack.
with Tom
Couldnt fit into pitch three, Tom went in and seconded up the outside of the crack.
with Tom
rushy11111918 15 Aug, 2014 2nd dnf Needed a hoist up the final pitch, which was an unspeakable chimney climb, which it now seems I attempted facing the wrong way...one of most unpleasant outdoor climbing experiences I've ever had!
with TOM (Guide)
Needed a hoist up the final pitch, which was an unspeakable chimney climb, which it now seems I attempted facing the wrong way...one of most unpleasant outdoor climbing experiences I've ever had!
with TOM (Guide)
soph 9 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S
Wil Treasure 9 Aug, 2014 Solo
griffithpatrick 15 Jul, 2014 AltLd lead second pitch. Had to squeeze up a fairly wet chimney. Pretty hard.
lead second pitch. Had to squeeze up a fairly wet chimney. Pretty hard.
Craigyboy13 9 Jul, 2014 Lead Brilliant. Will never do it again but one to remember. Hardly any gear ended up hanging any gear from my belay loop. If you are more than 75kg don't bother
Brilliant. Will never do it again but one to remember. Hardly any gear ended up hanging any gear from my belay loop. If you are more than 75kg don't bother
simonsclimbing 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd β
james.slater 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S With my Dad, who came back for a rematch after backing off with his brother many years ago! He led both the chimney pitches this time! What a squeeze! Came out bruised and battered but an unforgetable route! Dont bother taking much gear or helmets!
With my Dad, who came back for a rematch after backing off with his brother many years ago! He led both the chimney pitches this time! What a squeeze! Came out bruised and battered but an unforgetable route! Dont bother taking much gear or helmets!
Ewan Russell 17 Jun, 2014 Solo O/S
with Myself!
with Myself!
Hidden 8 Jun, 2014 2nd dnf
HB-Pencil 5 Jun, 2014 2nd
runwildjohn 5 May, 2014 Lead dnf Retreated from unpleasant tight and glossy p2.
with Dave Rawlinson
Retreated from unpleasant tight and glossy p2.
with Dave Rawlinson
Ralfy 23 Apr, 2014 Lead dnf Refused to go inside, more like caving, next time.
with Lenny
Refused to go inside, more like caving, next time.
with Lenny
Lenny 21 Apr, 2014 AltLd dnf Awesome. One pie away from needing rescue from the crack.
with Phil .N
Awesome. One pie away from needing rescue from the crack.
with Phil .N
Charlie Low 8 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Lead P1 and P2, abbed off before P3 as was wet and tiny! I'm a 5"3 very small girl and I could just about fit in the P3 chimney with a harness on, but couldn't move up at all!
with Jack93
Lead P1 and P2, abbed off before P3 as was wet and tiny! I'm a 5"3 very small girl and I could just about fit in the P3 chimney with a harness on, but couldn't move up at all!
with Jack93
Jack93 8 Apr, 2014 2nd Pitches 1 and 2 had a high grovel factor and then we abbed off before pitch 3 as neither of us could fit in the chimney or fancied climbing outside of it
Pitches 1 and 2 had a high grovel factor and then we abbed off before pitch 3 as neither of us could fit in the chimney or fancied climbing outside of it
oldmanofmow ??, 2014 -
IanGilbertJones ??, 2014 -
Si ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Nick Biven ??, 2014 -
tedswag 16 Nov, 2013 2nd dnf
BradleyWhite 10 Aug, 2013 Lead Did it in 1 pitch - Couldn't get in the crack on p3 so I climbed the arête to the right. I've climbed easier E1's than this!
Did it in 1 pitch - Couldn't get in the crack on p3 so I climbed the arête to the right. I've climbed easier E1's than this!
morgan91 10 Aug, 2013 2nd
Same 3 Aug, 2013 Lead dnf Nobody is that shape for he second crack, abbed off
Nobody is that shape for he second crack, abbed off
Hidden 15 Jul, 2013 2nd dog
tmawer 14 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S What a struggle; I genuinely can not understand the grading of this route! Hardest time, by far, I have had this year!
with Graeme, Maz
What a struggle; I genuinely can not understand the grading of this route! Hardest time, by far, I have had this year!
with Graeme, Maz
MazElden 14 Jul, 2013 2nd dog Speechless!!!! Hardest route I have ever done!!
Speechless!!!! Hardest route I have ever done!!
sheelba 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd Awesome 'unique' route. My partner couldn't fit in the chimney so we had to climb around to the right and then I lowered down into it and then climbed back out! Don't take any extraneous stuff like trainers, cameras or much of a rack
Awesome 'unique' route. My partner couldn't fit in the chimney so we had to climb around to the right and then I lowered down into it and then climbed back out! Don't take any extraneous stuff like trainers, cameras or much of a rack
wjcdean 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S lol! nowhere near fitting into the chimney on P3, had to go round the side, my second retreived the gear then i lowered him down into the abyss. Good laugh hearing him grunt his way back up and out. Missed out P4 by accident. Arrrggh midges.
with sheelba
lol! nowhere near fitting into the chimney on P3, had to go round the side, my second retreived the gear then i lowered him down into the abyss. Good laugh hearing him grunt his way back up and out. Missed out P4 by accident. Arrrggh midges.
with sheelba
Yong_Welsh 10 Jun, 2013 AltLd Haha
Haha
JamesLloyd 9 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S lead pitch 1 and the third pitch up the super skinny chimney with lodged boulder. some of the best climbing ive done!
lead pitch 1 and the third pitch up the super skinny chimney with lodged boulder. some of the best climbing ive done!
tim20 ??, 2013 -
scott titt ??, 2013 -
JamesP ??, 2013 Lead O/S
gd303uk 5 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Great fun and extremely very very hard, thrutchy madness. The hardest route I have ever done. Brilliant though.
with Dafydd, birdie num num
Great fun and extremely very very hard, thrutchy madness. The hardest route I have ever done. Brilliant though.
with Dafydd, birdie num num
Hidden 12 Aug, 2012 AltLd dnf
Pete Randall 11 Aug, 2012 AltLd Only when (hopefully) the physical and mental scares fade might this be remembered as epic.
with Ian Shaw
Only when (hopefully) the physical and mental scares fade might this be remembered as epic.
with Ian Shaw
georgedunton 24 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Lead P's 1 and 3
Lead P's 1 and 3
Tom Folley 24 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Led Pitches 2 & 4
Led Pitches 2 & 4
Hidden ?Mar, 2012 2nd dnf
alan moore ??, 2012 - Deep.
Deep.
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 7 Dec, 2011 AltLd
Daymo 19 Nov, 2011 AltLd dog The worst route I have ever climbed. What a load of crud. The Abrahams who set this route only did it for a bit of Kudos I reckon. Well they can keep their route and shove it where the sun doesn’t shine!!!!
The worst route I have ever climbed. What a load of crud. The Abrahams who set this route only did it for a bit of Kudos I reckon. Well they can keep their route and shove it where the sun doesn’t shine!!!!
Hidden 19 Nov, 2011 AltLd
victim of mathematics 5 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Led pitches 2, 3 & 4. Squeezy!
Led pitches 2, 3 & 4. Squeezy!
neilmackie 6 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with gerrard
with gerrard
Ellen Cobby 3 Jul, 2011 2nd dog Epic. I have never had so many bruises after a climb!
Epic. I have never had so many bruises after a climb!
Hidden 3 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
wishicud climbHVS 26 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S Absolutely stinking horrible grotty crack climb. 1st pitch funny but very quickly lost sense of humour in a wet muddy frictionless chimney. Don't know how anyone dare put this in a classic climb book. Enough said. P.s YUK
with emmit21
Absolutely stinking horrible grotty crack climb. 1st pitch funny but very quickly lost sense of humour in a wet muddy frictionless chimney. Don't know how anyone dare put this in a classic climb book. Enough said. P.s YUK
with emmit21
farmus21 28 May, 2011 AltLd Horrorshow.
with Tim
Horrorshow.
with Tim
BobOldale 21 Apr, 2011 2nd dnf ONLY ATTEMPT IF VERY THIN! im not a big guy and no matter how i tried i could not get in to the 3rd pitch!
ONLY ATTEMPT IF VERY THIN! im not a big guy and no matter how i tried i could not get in to the 3rd pitch!
mcglenr25 21 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Epic adventure!
with Bob Oldale
Epic adventure!
with Bob Oldale
amthalmann 11 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
richardcreagh 11 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Led second and third pitch as one. Had to do variation on third pitch, couldn't get in the chimney!
Led second and third pitch as one. Had to do variation on third pitch, couldn't get in the chimney!
AMarchant 21 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S epic
epic
Hidden 21 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
djromberg ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden 26 Sep, 2010 AltLd
Cardi 5 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S P3 is tight! Didn't put any gear in until a long way up where I used a thread and a prussik loop as a runner, in case John couldn't get up. Turned out he couldn't, so lowered him all the way down after I'd placed some gear at the top of the Chimney on P4. I've got a 32" waist and nearly a 40" chest, but just about got through ok with a harness on. If you can chimney in between holds it isn't that hard!
with John L
P3 is tight! Didn't put any gear in until a long way up where I used a thread and a prussik loop as a runner, in case John couldn't get up. Turned out he couldn't, so lowered him all the way down after I'd placed some gear at the top of the Chimney on P4. I've got a 32" waist and nearly a 40" chest, but just about got through ok with a harness on. If you can chimney in between holds it isn't that hard!
with John L
Kyle F 16 Aug, 2010 2nd
Hidden 5 Jul, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 25 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Jun, 2010 AltLd
catblack 24 Jun, 2010 Solo Probably easier as a solo, as you can squeeze into the chimneys without any gear getting in the way, but pretty damn scary on the main, deep, slippery chimmney. Fun once it was over!
Probably easier as a solo, as you can squeeze into the chimneys without any gear getting in the way, but pretty damn scary on the main, deep, slippery chimmney. Fun once it was over!
Andrew Barker 24 Jun, 2010 Solo O/S A fantastic thrutch.
A fantastic thrutch.
gordon henderson 13 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with andy woolston
with andy woolston
rustaldo 28 May, 2010 AltLd O/S second time round after poor weather previously. dubious onsight! neither of us could wriggle into the crack/chimney, so we took the cop-out. later at the pub we learned you have to negative harnesses and rack to fit! bonkers!
second time round after poor weather previously. dubious onsight! neither of us could wriggle into the crack/chimney, so we took the cop-out. later at the pub we learned you have to negative harnesses and rack to fit! bonkers!
Hidden 28 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
wolf.leeb 25 May, 2010 AltLd O/S laughable.. litteraly a sick joke.. grade is meaningless..
laughable.. litteraly a sick joke.. grade is meaningless..
mynyddresident 25 May, 2010 AltLd hands SHOULDERS KNEES and toes....and armbars
hands SHOULDERS KNEES and toes....and armbars
Ivan Muckle 23 May, 2010 Lead
Hidden 22 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
JasonV 1 May, 2010 AltLd O/S Led P1 and 2 - followed the left hand chimney. Couldn't do P3, so thanks to the foresight of the leader I did De Selincourt's variation. Much much better.
with Phil
Led P1 and 2 - followed the left hand chimney. Couldn't do P3, so thanks to the foresight of the leader I did De Selincourt's variation. Much much better.
with Phil
MarkFoster ?May, 2010 Lead
Hidden 21 Apr, 2010 Lead
Laura-lou 17 Apr, 2010 Lead Led first pitch then ab'd off to go climb in the sunshine
with Paul Shepherd
Led first pitch then ab'd off to go climb in the sunshine
with Paul Shepherd
hellboundblr 16 Apr, 2010 AltLd Me P1 & P2 in one pitch. John P3, but took the cheats way round rather than the chimney.
with John Carlin
Me P1 & P2 in one pitch. John P3, but took the cheats way round rather than the chimney.
with John Carlin
Sardien 13 Mar, 2010 AltLd dnf wanted to continue the entertaining struggle, but we were 4; one was doing first ever outdoor climb, one couldnt get up P2 and one couldn't fit in P3, so after 2,5 hrs we settled for a pint instead:-) Will be back!
with Rob Mills, Hilarry Ford, Beattie
wanted to continue the entertaining struggle, but we were 4; one was doing first ever outdoor climb, one couldnt get up P2 and one couldn't fit in P3, so after 2,5 hrs we settled for a pint instead:-) Will be back!
with Rob Mills, Hilarry Ford, Beattie
innesmac ??, 2010 -
Hidden 15 Dec, 2009 AltLd dnf
rustaldo 15 Dec, 2009 AltLd dnf retreated due to weather
retreated due to weather
Hjort 3 Nov, 2009 AltLd dnf Bit wet
with Michael Weaver
Bit wet
with Michael Weaver
christensena 13 Sep, 2009 Lead dnf Couldn't fit into the chimney on third pitch
Couldn't fit into the chimney on third pitch
Hidden 13 Sep, 2009 2nd dnf
Spillers 12 Sep, 2009 Lead Caving and pitch 2 brilliant fun! Couldn't get into P3 at all and gave up after about 1/2 hr. Only for the really, really skinny!
Caving and pitch 2 brilliant fun! Couldn't get into P3 at all and gave up after about 1/2 hr. Only for the really, really skinny!
Jakey4060 12 Sep, 2009 AltLd dnf 1st pitch, great fun caving, 2nd pitch great "behind head" gear, 3rd pitch.......RUN!!
1st pitch, great fun caving, 2nd pitch great "behind head" gear, 3rd pitch.......RUN!!
simon_williams6 29 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
jezb1 27 Jul, 2009 Lead Probably about right for a severe but not regular climbing! Couldn't get into the P3 chimney so went right which seemed the better / nicer choice.
Probably about right for a severe but not regular climbing! Couldn't get into the P3 chimney so went right which seemed the better / nicer choice.
mike_uk82 25 Jul, 2009 2nd
Skinny Kin 29 Jun, 2009 Lead dnf Gave up the top pitch. Very tiring off-width. Couldn't get inside the crack. Amazingly difficult for a severe.
with Ed Russell
Gave up the top pitch. Very tiring off-width. Couldn't get inside the crack. Amazingly difficult for a severe.
with Ed Russell
Jon Pilling 9 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Si Williams
with Si Williams
Hidden ?Jun, 2009 AltLd dnf
matt.woodfield 30 May, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 25 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
whiting.jp 25 May, 2009 AltLd
with jamesca
with jamesca
Sgt. Vest 24 May, 2009 Solo O/S
Hidden ?May, 2009 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 20 Apr, 2009 Solo O/S
aide 18 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S More than a severe, more of an upward shuffle than rock climbing. Couldn't get in the top chimney so opted for the step right, which feels much more like severe grade rock climbing. A truly traditional route with a bit of everything on offer.
with Dave Con
More than a severe, more of an upward shuffle than rock climbing. Couldn't get in the top chimney so opted for the step right, which feels much more like severe grade rock climbing. A truly traditional route with a bit of everything on offer.
with Dave Con
dannymoo99 10 Apr, 2009 AltLd Pitch 3 was shit! A horrible climb. A Severe?? No way! Went round right.
with Tom Shooter
Pitch 3 was shit! A horrible climb. A Severe?? No way! Went round right.
with Tom Shooter
Hidden 10 Apr, 2009 Lead
Gareth T 12 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
with Greg
with Greg
Greg Jones ?Oct, 2008 2nd dog Wouls not suggest this one if you have more then a 30' waist.
with Gareth Thomas
Wouls not suggest this one if you have more then a 30' waist.
with Gareth Thomas
benchwarmer 14 Sep, 2008 Lead dnf
peggy_on_the_rocks ?Sep, 2008 2nd
with Dan
with Dan
thompson1000 14 Jul, 2008 Lead Climbed first 2 pitches but fitting into the 3rd was impossable for both of us. abseiled off
Climbed first 2 pitches but fitting into the 3rd was impossable for both of us. abseiled off
mitch 20 Jun, 2008 AltLd rpt Abbed off April 07 as 2nd couldn't get (/fit) up 2nd pitch. Led pitches 1 and (3-4), but stepped out right on third pitch as I'm now certain I'm not a catapiller!
Abbed off April 07 as 2nd couldn't get (/fit) up 2nd pitch. Led pitches 1 and (3-4), but stepped out right on third pitch as I'm now certain I'm not a catapiller!
Hidden 20 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
stefan7n 9 Jun, 2008 2nd dnf Tight!!
with The Radcliff, Sarah
Tight!!
with The Radcliff, Sarah
adam06 9 Jun, 2008 Lead dnf lol, hardest severe in the world? tried to do pitch 3 without going far enough into the crack cuz we didn't have the guide book.. defiantly gonna come back to this...
with Sarah Lewington and stefan roberts
lol, hardest severe in the world? tried to do pitch 3 without going far enough into the crack cuz we didn't have the guide book.. defiantly gonna come back to this...
with Sarah Lewington and stefan roberts
ebdon 1 Jun, 2008 Lead my Friend who had spent the week prior to out ascent onsighting several E3's said pitch 3 was "the hardest thing he'd done all week" needless to say I opted for the variation.
my Friend who had spent the week prior to out ascent onsighting several E3's said pitch 3 was "the hardest thing he'd done all week" needless to say I opted for the variation.
tumbling wizard ?Jun, 2008 -
Rob Davies 13 May, 2008 2nd Omer is skinny and fitted in easily. I tried the 1905 offwidth variation, straight up, but it was too hard!
with Omer (BMC)
Omer is skinny and fitted in easily. I tried the 1905 offwidth variation, straight up, but it was too hard!
with Omer (BMC)
Hidden 6 May, 2008 AltLd dnf
alwyn101 6 May, 2008 AltLd dnf
with dilwyn4
with dilwyn4
Hidden 3 May, 2008 AltLd dnf
Neil Adams 3 Nov, 2007 AltLd I can't quite decide whether this was really great fun of absolutely horrible - a bit of both I suspect. I think the topo in the N Wales Rock guide is a bit misleading - the line is shown going up the corner crack system immediately R of the wee tree but this is really hard & out of character with the rest of the route (I fell off it!). The chimney on the R fits the description better and is much more in keeping with the rest of the route.
with Fidget
I can't quite decide whether this was really great fun of absolutely horrible - a bit of both I suspect. I think the topo in the N Wales Rock guide is a bit misleading - the line is shown going up the corner crack system immediately R of the wee tree but this is really hard & out of character with the rest of the route (I fell off it!). The chimney on the R fits the description better and is much more in keeping with the rest of the route.
with Fidget
tommyzero 30 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S I lead pitch two and the notorious pitch three chimney. I'm really skinny and I only just got in that crack. It's polished (or eroded by water?) and quite a hard section. Perhaps I didn't have the sequence. It felt hard but I'm not sure the moves are hard. I think it's just the confines of the space.
with Sir Rich Mc Rich
I lead pitch two and the notorious pitch three chimney. I'm really skinny and I only just got in that crack. It's polished (or eroded by water?) and quite a hard section. Perhaps I didn't have the sequence. It felt hard but I'm not sure the moves are hard. I think it's just the confines of the space.
with Sir Rich Mc Rich
Hidden ?Sep, 2007 Solo O/S
Hidden 13 Jun, 2007 AltLd
Ben Sidsaph 9 Jun, 2007 AltLd I lead the first pitch
with Andy Beverly
I lead the first pitch
with Andy Beverly
ducle 26 May, 2007 Lead dog Tried to fit into the chimney on the third pitch - too small! It's about 20cm wide, widening a bit at the back... Did de(somebody) alternative instead.
with Jenny Young
Tried to fit into the chimney on the third pitch - too small! It's about 20cm wide, widening a bit at the back... Did de(somebody) alternative instead.
with Jenny Young
Sgt. Vest 3 May, 2007 AltLd O/S
with sophie wilmes, david nicholas
with sophie wilmes, david nicholas
Hidden 3 May, 2007 AltLd O/S
jenniyoung ?May, 2007 -
with ducle
with ducle
Rob Davies 14 Apr, 2007 Lead Unable to get inside top chimney, despite trying to slide in horizontally - my chest is bigger than in 1975. Finished up De Selincourt's Variation
with Phil A
Unable to get inside top chimney, despite trying to slide in horizontally - my chest is bigger than in 1975. Finished up De Selincourt's Variation
with Phil A
Hidden 6 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2007 2nd dog
tumbling wizard ?Apr, 2007 Lead
Hidden 10 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S
deanroberts ??, 2007 2nd dog a real pig of a climb... very hard for the grade!!!
a real pig of a climb... very hard for the grade!!!
fran04 ??, 2007 AltLd
brighters ??, 2007 -
Rob Laird 12 Nov, 2006 AltLd O/S Severe my arse!! Probably not helped by wet rock. Got to go back and do it when it's dry
with AJ
Severe my arse!! Probably not helped by wet rock. Got to go back and do it when it's dry
with AJ
beegsyboy 8 Sep, 2006 2nd O/S Oh my God!!!! Can't believe I survived the final chimney crack! Fun...kinda..
with Eccie + Lewis
Oh my God!!!! Can't believe I survived the final chimney crack! Fun...kinda..
with Eccie + Lewis
Neil Mackenzie 8 Sep, 2006 2nd O/S Emm, what can i say..... possibly the most entertaining struggle on the planet, well worth doing!!!!
with Tim + Lewis
Emm, what can i say..... possibly the most entertaining struggle on the planet, well worth doing!!!!
with Tim + Lewis
lewisl 8 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S A battle and a half but possibly the most fun route i tried that week in ogwen
with Tim and Bell
A battle and a half but possibly the most fun route i tried that week in ogwen
with Tim and Bell
GuyC 17 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S Hilarious!
with Pete K, Jon Bell
Hilarious!
with Pete K, Jon Bell
emlynroberts ??, 2006 AltLd dnf tried it twice failed twice.
with Katie, Si Creer
tried it twice failed twice.
with Katie, Si Creer
mikelaing ??, 2006 -
Hidden 15 Oct, 2005 AltLd O/S
david morse ?Oct, 2005 AltLd
with chris todd
with chris todd
bigie bob ?Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S Possibly the greatest route in the entire world!
Possibly the greatest route in the entire world!
Clucky 10 Jun, 2005 AltLd dog You've just not done this route, unless you've dogged it, got jammed in the crack; when the only that gets you through it is the idea of mountain rescue turning up with the lube!
with Daniel O'Neill; Drew Withey
You've just not done this route, unless you've dogged it, got jammed in the crack; when the only that gets you through it is the idea of mountain rescue turning up with the lube!
with Daniel O'Neill; Drew Withey
Hidden ??, 2005 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2005 -
Hidden ?Oct, 2004 2nd
kylo-342 ?Oct, 2004 Lead
with Oliver Imray, chrisi
with Oliver Imray, chrisi
lost.arrow 9 May, 2004 -
caradoc 22 Jul, 2003 AltLd O/S Don't think we ever managed to squeeze through. I think it would have involved stripping off and breathing out, not an attractive proposition.
with john b
Don't think we ever managed to squeeze through. I think it would have involved stripping off and breathing out, not an attractive proposition.
with john b
Mark Riley ?Jul, 2003 Lead O/S
jimshrimp 25 Jun, 2003 AltLd No way was I fitting into that crack, despite numerous attempts. Luckily we had a copy of the Ogwen Guide with us. De Selincourts Variation providing a suitable alternative pitch, but did miss out the point of the climb. Recommended climb for stick-thin climbers carrying no kit.
No way was I fitting into that crack, despite numerous attempts. Luckily we had a copy of the Ogwen Guide with us. De Selincourts Variation providing a suitable alternative pitch, but did miss out the point of the climb. Recommended climb for stick-thin climbers carrying no kit.
Hidden 11 Jun, 2003 Lead O/S
rob wmc ?May, 2003 AltLd O/S We used the L/H crack to start, awkward, but less polished than the original, at the top the fun starts! If doing the inside route take off your harness and drag it in after you (unless you're super skinny). The crack opens up inside and includes a fixed wire. Headtorch may be useful.
with Andy
We used the L/H crack to start, awkward, but less polished than the original, at the top the fun starts! If doing the inside route take off your harness and drag it in after you (unless you're super skinny). The crack opens up inside and includes a fixed wire. Headtorch may be useful.
with Andy
Ben1983 ?Mar, 2003 AltLd O/S
Derek Ryden 2 Aug, 2002 Solo Horrible!
Horrible!
Alastair Hudson 4 Jan, 2002 Lead O/S
with Clare Young
with Clare Young
petekeron ??, 2002 Lead O/S M
M
Brown ??, 2002 Solo O/S
Tarquin ??, 2002 -
Hawthorn 25 Jul, 2001 2nd O/S De Selincourt's variation
De Selincourt's variation
MjrTom ??, 2001 Lead
fenn123 ??, 2001 -
Stone Muppet ??, 2001 -
Hidden 16 Apr, 2000 AltLd O/S
marcoleptic ??, 2000 -
BenTiffin 3 Sep, 1998 Lead Tight - had to remove my fleece to get in the crack.
Tight - had to remove my fleece to get in the crack.
Hidden 2 May, 1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Oct, 1997 Solo
Hidden ??, 1997 Lead
TobyA 15 Jun, 1996 Lead O/S
with Miia
with Miia
big ?May, 1996 AltLd
with stonemaster
with stonemaster
big 2 Jul, 1995 -
snowy_woodruff 26 Apr, 1995 -
Hidden 30 Jan, 1993 AltLd O/S
timreynolds 12 Oct, 1991 Lead
with Eric Sneyd
with Eric Sneyd
migs493 16 Jul, 1991 Lead
Martyn ??, 1991 Lead O/S
OMSKB ?Jun, 1989 Lead
Hidden ??, 1989 2nd O/S
Andy Say 29 Jun, 1988 Solo O/S
michael burrows 9 Aug, 1987 AltLd rpt
with pete roberts
with pete roberts
Ched ?Jun, 1987 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
Backinthegame ?Apr, 1986 Lead O/S
with Dad
with Dad
Hidden ??, 1985 2nd O/S
wynaptomos ?Jul, 1984 Solo
nigehughes ?Jul, 1984 Lead
with Paul Fowles
with Paul Fowles
sadams 15 Aug, 1983 AltLd
with Plas y Brenin Course
with Plas y Brenin Course
Nigel Bond 16 May, 1982 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
with Charlie Leverton
nniff ??, 1982 -
Richard Weller 25 Aug, 1981 AltLd DJ 1 adn 4. Me 2 adn 3
with D Jones
DJ 1 adn 4. Me 2 adn 3
with D Jones
Norman_P_W ??, 1981 -
with Bob M
with Bob M
Bob M ??, 1981 -
with Chris Bristow, Norman_P_W
with Chris Bristow, Norman_P_W
Mark Kemball 9 Feb, 1980 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
with Sarah Bridge
charlesmfrench 13 Jun, 1979 Solo O/S
Brian Wilderspin 20 Sep, 1978 Solo
Ian Jones ?Sep, 1978 Solo rpt
with Chris Newton
with Chris Newton
Bolt Phobia 9 May, 1977 Lead
Hammy 16 Apr, 1977 AltLd
with Jonathon Stacey
with Jonathon Stacey
Neil R ??, 1977 Lead
with David
with David
mikej 31 Oct, 1976 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
with Geoff Williams
Hidden ??, 1976 Lead
Hidden ??, 1976 -
Rob Davies 15 Feb, 1975 AltLd Stripped down to shirt on a cold day to get inside top chimney. Paul unable to follow in boots because his feet were too big.
with Paul Welford (ICMC), Pete McNulty (ICMC)
Stripped down to shirt on a cold day to get inside top chimney. Paul unable to follow in boots because his feet were too big.
with Paul Welford (ICMC), Pete McNulty (ICMC)
Sean Kelly ?Sep, 1974 -
Mike Owen ?Aug, 1974 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
with John Roberts
Rob Davies 12 Sep, 1973 Lead dnf In big boots 1st groove would have been very hard!
with Allan Sleight
In big boots 1st groove would have been very hard!
with Allan Sleight
Ian Jones ?Jun, 1973 Lead O/S Utterly exhausting!
with Bill Dean
Utterly exhausting!
with Bill Dean
Bob M ?Jun, 1973 -
tapley 15 Jun, 1969 Lead
Gordon Stainforth 7 Aug, 1968 AltLd I led the traditional chimney pitch up the inside - far inside where it widens a bit. John was so put off by my grunts etc that he seconded up the outside (De Selincourt's Variation)
with John Stainforth
I led the traditional chimney pitch up the inside - far inside where it widens a bit. John was so put off by my grunts etc that he seconded up the outside (De Selincourt's Variation)
with John Stainforth
Martin Bennett 9 Mar, 1968 -
with Doug Bonney, Joe Brown
with Doug Bonney, Joe Brown
auldscotal ??, 1965 AltLd O/S A real squeeze
with John Jones
A real squeeze
with John Jones
uphillnow ?May, 1964 Lead whit monday
with John Sargeant
whit monday
with John Sargeant
kjacks ??, 1964 2nd By the inside route - even as skinny teens we still had to strip some clothes off - only V Diff in our 60s guide. Also De Selincourt's Variation (not bad) and via LH crack.
with Dave Peers
By the inside route - even as skinny teens we still had to strip some clothes off - only V Diff in our 60s guide. Also De Selincourt's Variation (not bad) and via LH crack.
with Dave Peers
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Voting
High HVS
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High VS
Mid VS
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High HS
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High S
Mid S
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High HVD
Mid HVD
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Votes cast 57
Votes cast 64
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set