Rockfax Description
Practically ungradable, it will be impossible for the claustrophobic. Start below a deep slot that runs up and left across the cliff in steps.
1) 9m. Move up behind the monolith and squirm away until you can escape out of the top and belay.
2) 9m. Ascend the chimney, which is no pushover, to belay on a ledge below the final slot.
3) 11m. Face right and slither into the depths of the chimney. Somehow make upwards progress to be reborn through a hole behind a chockstone. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Through Routes!, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, AMC Uni Ticklist, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, Thrutch and Clutch, Type 2 Fun.

jonathandavey 28/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Too fat for the top chimney, a first for my skinny frame! May return with butter/washing up liquid.

with Malte
roryj 24/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Could not fit inside second chimney - will have to try harder next time! Went up the right arête instead (De Selincourt's variation).

with Dewi
Hidden 24/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/17 Lead rpt
JackSewell1997 09/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Seconders couldn't do it

with Tim, Berty 08/Jul/17 AltLd dnf

Lead pitch 1; scrambly squeeze, easy enough. Tom lead pitch 2, good lead, I seconded *relatively* comfortably, which had me heartened for pitch 3. Got shutdown by the chimney. I could make upward progress when I deflated my lungs, so I breathed out, thrutched my mini-arm bars frantically to gain approximately 2inches vertical per 5minutes effort. My best progress was a couple of feet. Numerous rests on chest jam were taken between upward flurries. Hilarious abseil down pitch 2. Now reading other reports on here it seems perhaps I should have tried to go up then further into the corner. Will be back, unfortunately.

with Emma M, Tom Eveleigh
LovelyMrTom 08/Jul/17 AltLd dnf

Ian lead pitch 1, I lead pitch 2. Emma couldn't get up pitch 2 so lowered her off. Ian spent sometime trying to get established in pitch 3, upward progress was measured in inches, eventually gave up and backed off instead of wasting the full day!

Jmpollard 05/Jul/17 Lead rpt

Bloody hell. Better than last time but still an absolute fight. Managed to offwidth up the outside of the crack before squeezing in and chimneying up. Had lots of chicken wing rests. I've done E2s that felt easier!

Hidden 05/Jul/17 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/17 Lead O/S
skinne 31/May/17 AltLd O/S

Alarmingly tight top pitch, stolen by Joe after my first three attempts (slithering on the floor, then one arm length off the ground, and standing) to enter the chimney ended with me wedged. After watching Joe waltz in, and then suffer his way up (and down and up and down and up) it, I managed to force myself in by standing on tip toes, and slightly chimneying off the ground to find the subtle widening to allow me entry to the dark, dirty corner at the back. Then the fun continued as every manner of chimneying and weirder methods (a swami/yoga cross legged position was very effective for one or two feet of the climb) were used to gain upwards progress to emerge to the bright, bright world. We then found a continuation chimney above for more unnecessary traditional climbing. It exhausted and may have changed both of us, and we refer to life BC/AC - Before Chimney/After Chimney. (Ps as someone else mentioned, the photo in the N Wales book is misleading: the picture shows the third pitch beginning at a tree on a ledge, where the pitch actually ends at that ledge (but not at the tree). Crush your pelvis, lose some weight, and do this!

JoeFoster59 31/May/17 AltLd O/S

Hahahahahahahahahahahahahh absolutely hilarious route. I was only meant to the lead the second pitch (which was no push over) then when eric couldnt fit into the third pitch I thought I 'd take a look. Unfortunately I managed to fit in and found myself at the back of the chimney. Its the first time I've ever stared intensely into the black in hope some non polished holds and non wet holds would appear. Slung a block as my pro but what it do you'll just get trapped if you fall. After some offwidth technique, sheer lanking, determation and what felt like 9 days of effort I emerged from the top. Such an awesome experience no training possible for this you just have to be anatomically correct. Brilliant

with skinne
stephheeley 14/May/17 2nd
C Witter 05/May/17 AltLd dnf

Wow. What a shocker of a route. Our last route of two days climbing together - begun somewhere around our 30th pitch. We scrambled awkwardly up pitch 1 to the ledge, where Francis solemnly announced that he'd take the lead on pitch 2. I checked the guide and saw why... But, let him get on with it. He's normally a very fast climber, but really seemed to struggle - not only to make upward progess, but to move at all. "I'm getting quite a pump on", he said after 10 minutes of what appeared to be complete immobility. Eventually he got through to the belay ledge. I tried to follow, and managed only by means of extreme and varied use of profanity. At a certain point, all useful holds ceased, and I was forced to resort to full body jamming; though this latter was not so much a tactical choice as an inevitability, given the straitjacket character of that vile cleft. Having eventually reached the safe haven of the large chockstone below the ledge, I realised that I had somehow ended up sitting down, looking out of the crack; correcting this, I then found I'd also forgotten to clean a nut, and had to spend some time trying to remove it from behind a jammed block somewhere below my ankles. Reaching the belay ledge with relief at being able to breath deeply again, I geared up, everything on my right-hand side, and set off, feeling slightly more cheerful, for pitch three. However, at the top of the pinnacle I began to have second thoughts. Francis cajoled me and I began feeding myself into the chimney, before quickly realising that I was just too big. I consider myself fairly slender, but my chest wouldn't squeeze into the crack, jammed between my nipples and my shoulder blades. Even plentiful profanity couldn't lubricate my progress this time. "Try and crawl in", Francis helpful suggested. I gave it a half-hearted go, and then began to abort. Perched back on the spike, I couldn't believe what had occurred, tried to measure the chimney crack with my eyes, and eventually went back up for another investigation. But, again - too wide. I was just too damn wide for the damn crack. As I tried to abseil off the garlands of tat out of the left-hand chimney, with my hands jammed against my sides and an undercut chockstone threatening to nut me as I descended past it, I may well have exclaimed: "Those Abraham brothers must have been a skinny pair of underfed bastards." I've certainly failed on climbs before because I wasn't nimble enough, quick enough, clever enough or strong enough - but never before because I was just too damn wide.

with Francis
nodwas 02/May/17 Lead dnf

Got dark and couldn't fit in the top pitch!!!

with suds_01
suds_01 02/May/17 AltLd O/S

Led p1 and p3 couldn't fit in the crack finished in the dark

foobar123 13/Nov/16 Lead dnf

Lead p1 then backed off p2 due to dampness / lack of gear. It was great fun though, so I'd definitely like to return in nicer conditions and while not wearing my nice waterproof jacket!

with Mia de los Reyes
Hidden 12/Nov/16 Lead dnf
UncleMephisto 13/Oct/16 AltLd dnf

Office life must be taking it's toll as neither of us could fit in the main chimney. Going fast and light (ie. forgetting the entire rack) made the outside option less than appealing. Quickly becoming our nemesis!

Andyjharper 14/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Absolutely horrendous, climbed zig zag with iza and descended to find hatch stuck on p2 of monolith, scrambled up and swapped with jo, both struggled up p2 and got wedged horizontally, p3 was too narrow and wet, outer face looked mental, abbed off

Hidden 12/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/16 AltLd dnf
Jmpollard 24/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

As an aspiring chimney aficionado, this route is brutal! Pitch one is a laugh and so is pitch two, but what the hell is pitch 3?! None of us fit in the crack so Hamish led up the outside part and then I tried to second the chimney. Ended up offwidthing it as I couldn't fit in and never made it past the overlap! Fair play anyone that makes it up the p3 chimney, maybe it would have gone better in shoes...

with Ben Jones, Hamish Stephen
Harry Ellis 13/Jul/16 AltLd

Gary wouldnt fit in the 3rd pitch so I led the outside right option. James got the 'pleasure' of seconding up the inside with much grunting!

with Gary Papworth, james gibson
shed_hed 05/Jul/16 Solo O/S

So traditional! So polished! Glad it was dry! Quite good fun once I realised that you can't fall out even if you try to (I'm not sure it would make any difference if this was horizontal rather than vertical). Bit of a squeeze, glad i didn't have gear to get in the way!

Mark D 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Fantastic recommendation with delightful climbing!

with Tom Green, Rosie Henstock
Rosie Henstock 03/Jul/16 2nd rpt

2nd time on this route and it found it much less of an ordeal. Mark did a good job of squeezing into Pitch 3 given he has the biggest chest of all of us!

TGreen 03/Jul/16 2nd rpt
pistal10 28/May/16 Lead dnf

Solo pitch 1 (easy climbing through the hole), battled up pitch 2, pitch 3 is ridiculous! Couldn't fit in the crack and the face is nails! came down off the fixed gear...

with Adam Crouch
Rosie Henstock 14/May/16 AltLd O/S
TGreen 14/May/16 AltLd O/S
cameronr11 16/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

P2+3. Definitely type 2 fun, not sure I've climbed anything remotely like this before. Tight squeeze for p3, my partner couldn't fit so had to come up the outside and I had to ab into the crack and retrieve the gear and reclimb it. Not one I'll forget in a hurry, head jams, knee bars and awkward chimneying

Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Tom Draude 11/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Chris Cockbain
chris cockbain 11/Aug/15 AltLd O/S


Hidden 14/Jul/15 Lead O/S
static266 29/Jun/15 Lead dnf

First 2 pitches only

adamre12 18/Apr/15 AltLd dnf

James P1, me P2. Couldnt fit into the final chimney at all, had to ab off. Shame really because P3 looked really good...

Hidden 14/Apr/15 AltLd dnf
Hidden 28/Feb/15 2nd dnf
Alex Wade 28/Feb/15 Lead dnf

Fun into through cave, which would have been much easier without a harness and gear. Entertaining struggle with the chimney on 2nd pitch, couldn't fit inside chimney on 3rd pitch. Tried climbing outside right to cut back in, but then the weather came in so bailed.

Samuel Wainwright 22/Feb/15 AltLd dnf

In a total blizzard. After an icy tussle we broke the second pitch but snow pouring down the chimney forced a retreat. We'll be back!

with Rafe Osborne
UncleMephisto 21/Feb/15 AltLd dnf

Grade A misery. Wrestling a pig in a paddling pool of warm butter would be easier. Bring your sense of humour along for this one.

Tim Sparrow ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
beeney 28/Sep/14 2nd


with Tom
TomGB 27/Sep/14 Lead dnf

just about cursed my way up p2. Nowhere near fitting into the chimney on pitch 3. Ridiculous, only the cadaverous need apply.

Binder 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant! Pretty scary jamming myself into the crack, but a reassuring widening at the back.

with Andrew R, Tom L, Tim C
Tubs 20/Sep/14 2nd β

Nearly had a panic attack when I got wedged horizontally. Obviously 3 stars.

with George
M000W 07/Sep/14 2nd
Bill Lawrence 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Dave, Mick, rob cooper, andy lawrence
wi11 02/Sep/14 Solo O/S

Hardest climb I've done all year!

with Sabby
Keiran O'Mahony 17/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Couldnt fit into pitch three, Tom went in and seconded up the outside of the crack.

with Tom
rushy11111918 15/Aug/14 2nd dnf

Needed a hoist up the final pitch, which was an unspeakable chimney climb, which it now seems I attempted facing the wrong of most unpleasant outdoor climbing experiences I've ever had!

with TOM (Guide)
soph 09/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Wil Treasure 09/Aug/14 Solo
griffithpatrick 15/Jul/14 AltLd

lead second pitch. Had to squeeze up a fairly wet chimney. Pretty hard.

Craigyboy13 09/Jul/14 Lead

Brilliant. Will never do it again but one to remember. Hardly any gear ended up hanging any gear from my belay loop. If you are more than 75kg don't bother

simonsclimbing 22/Jun/14 AltLd β
james.slater 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

With my Dad, who came back for a rematch after backing off with his brother many years ago! He led both the chimney pitches this time! What a squeeze! Came out bruised and battered but an unforgetable route! Dont bother taking much gear or helmets!

Ewan Russell 17/Jun/14 Solo O/S
with Myself!
Hidden 08/Jun/14 2nd dnf
HB-Pencil 05/Jun/14 2nd
runwildjohn 05/May/14 Lead dnf

Retreated from unpleasant tight and glossy p2.

with Dave Rawlinson
Hidden 23/Apr/14 Lead dnf
Lenny 21/Apr/14 AltLd dnf

Awesome. One pie away from needing rescue from the crack.

with Phil .N
Charlie Low 08/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Lead P1 and P2, abbed off before P3 as was wet and tiny! I'm a 5"3 very small girl and I could just about fit in the P3 chimney with a harness on, but couldn't move up at all!

Jack93 08/Apr/14 2nd

Pitches 1 and 2 had a high grovel factor and then we abbed off before pitch 3 as neither of us could fit in the chimney or fancied climbing outside of it

oldmanofmow ??/2014 -
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
tedswag 16/Nov/13 2nd dnf
BradleyWhite 10/Aug/13 Lead

Did it in 1 pitch - Couldn't get in the crack on p3 so I climbed the arête to the right. I've climbed easier E1's than this!

morgan91 10/Aug/13 2nd
Same 03/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Nobody is that shape for he second crack, abbed off

Graeme James Cook 15/Jul/13 2nd dog

Brilliant fun and yet horrible at the same time. Don't take to much gear because you won't need it, because it is mostly unprotect-able. Expect to squirm, grovel, do moves you did not think your body could do and most of all do not believe for minute the Severe grading it gets, because you can't put a grade on it. Unless somebody comes up with an off-width grading system.

tmawer 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

What a struggle; I genuinely can not understand the grading of this route! Hardest time, by far, I have had this year!

with Graeme, Maz
MazElden 14/Jul/13 2nd dog

Speechless!!!! Hardest route I have ever done!!

sheelba 12/Jul/13 AltLd

Awesome 'unique' route. My partner couldn't fit in the chimney so we had to climb around to the right and then I lowered down into it and then climbed back out! Don't take any extraneous stuff like trainers, cameras or much of a rack

wjcdean 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

lol! nowhere near fitting into the chimney on P3, had to go round the side, my second retreived the gear then i lowered him down into the abyss. Good laugh hearing him grunt his way back up and out. Missed out P4 by accident. Arrrggh midges.

Yong_Welsh 10/Jun/13 AltLd


JamesLloyd 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 1 and the third pitch up the super skinny chimney with lodged boulder. some of the best climbing ive done!

tim20 ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
JamesP ??/2013 Lead O/S
gd303uk 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Great fun and extremely very very hard, thrutchy madness. The hardest route I have ever done. Brilliant though.

with Dafydd, Birdie Num Num
Hidden 12/Aug/12 AltLd dnf
Pete Randall 11/Aug/12 AltLd

Only when (hopefully) the physical and mental scares fade might this be remembered as epic.

with Ian Shaw
georgedunton 24/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P's 1 and 3

Tom Folley 24/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led Pitches 2 & 4

Hidden ?/Mar/12 2nd dnf
alan moore ??/2012 -


Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 07/Dec/11 AltLd
Daymo 19/Nov/11 AltLd dog

The worst route I have ever climbed. What a load of crud. The Abrahams who set this route only did it for a bit of Kudos I reckon. Well they can keep their route and shove it where the sun doesn’t shine!!!!

Hidden 19/Nov/11 AltLd
victim of mathematics 05/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2, 3 & 4. Squeezy!

Hidden 06/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Ellen Cobby 03/Jul/11 2nd dog

Epic. I have never had so many bruises after a climb!

Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
wishicud climbHVS 26/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Absolutely stinking horrible grotty crack climb. 1st pitch funny but very quickly lost sense of humour in a wet muddy frictionless chimney. Don't know how anyone dare put this in a classic climb book. Enough said. P.s YUK

farmus21 28/May/11 AltLd


with Tim
BobOldale 21/Apr/11 2nd dnf

ONLY ATTEMPT IF VERY THIN! im not a big guy and no matter how i tried i could not get in to the 3rd pitch!

mcglenr25 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Epic adventure!

with Bob Oldale
amthalmann 11/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Richard
richardcreagh 11/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led second and third pitch as one. Had to do variation on third pitch, couldn't get in the chimney!

AMarchant 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S


Hidden 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden 26/Sep/10 AltLd
Cardi 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S

P3 is tight! Didn't put any gear in until a long way up where I used a thread and a prussik loop as a runner, in case John couldn't get up. Turned out he couldn't, so lowered him all the way down after I'd placed some gear at the top of the Chimney on P4. I've got a 32" waist and nearly a 40" chest, but just about got through ok with a harness on. If you can chimney in between holds it isn't that hard!

with John L
Kyle F 16/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 05/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/10 AltLd
catblack 24/Jun/10 Solo

Probably easier as a solo, as you can squeeze into the chimneys without any gear getting in the way, but pretty damn scary on the main, deep, slippery chimmney. Fun once it was over!

Andrew Barker 24/Jun/10 Solo O/S

A fantastic thrutch.

gordon henderson 13/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with andy woolston
rustaldo 28/May/10 AltLd O/S

second time round after poor weather previously. dubious onsight! neither of us could wriggle into the crack/chimney, so we took the cop-out. later at the pub we learned you have to negative harnesses and rack to fit! bonkers!

Hidden 28/May/10 AltLd O/S
wolf.leeb 25/May/10 AltLd O/S

laughable.. litteraly a sick joke.. grade is meaningless..

mynyddresident 25/May/10 AltLd

hands SHOULDERS KNEES and toes....and armbars

Ivan Muckle 23/May/10 Lead
Hidden 22/May/10 AltLd O/S
JasonV 01/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and 2 - followed the left hand chimney. Couldn't do P3, so thanks to the foresight of the leader I did De Selincourt's variation. Much much better.

with Phil
MarkFoster ?/May/10 Lead
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Lead
Laura-lou 17/Apr/10 Lead

Led first pitch then ab'd off to go climb in the sunshine

hellboundblr 16/Apr/10 AltLd

Me P1 & P2 in one pitch. John P3, but took the cheats way round rather than the chimney.

with John Carlin
Sardien 13/Mar/10 AltLd dnf

wanted to continue the entertaining struggle, but we were 4; one was doing first ever outdoor climb, one couldnt get up P2 and one couldn't fit in P3, so after 2,5 hrs we settled for a pint instead:-) Will be back!

with Rob Mills, Hilarry Ford, Beattie
innesmac ??/2010 -
Hidden 15/Dec/09 AltLd dnf
rustaldo 15/Dec/09 AltLd dnf

retreated due to weather

Hjort 03/Nov/09 AltLd dnf

Bit wet

with Michael Weaver
christensena 13/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Couldn't fit into the chimney on third pitch

Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd dnf
Spillers 12/Sep/09 Lead

Caving and pitch 2 brilliant fun! Couldn't get into P3 at all and gave up after about 1/2 hr. Only for the really, really skinny!

with Jake
Jakey4060 12/Sep/09 AltLd dnf

1st pitch, great fun caving, 2nd pitch great "behind head" gear, 3rd pitch.......RUN!!

simon_williams6 29/Jul/09 Lead O/S
jezb1 27/Jul/09 Lead

Probably about right for a severe but not regular climbing! Couldn't get into the P3 chimney so went right which seemed the better / nicer choice.

mike_uk82 25/Jul/09 2nd
Skinny Kin 29/Jun/09 Lead dnf

Gave up the top pitch. Very tiring off-width. Couldn't get inside the crack. Amazingly difficult for a severe.

with Ed Russell
Jon Pilling 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Si Williams
Hidden ?/Jun/09 AltLd dnf
matt.woodfield 30/May/09 AltLd
Hidden 25/May/09 AltLd O/S 25/May/09 AltLd
with jamesca
Sgt. Vest 24/May/09 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 20/Apr/09 Solo O/S
aide 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S

More than a severe, more of an upward shuffle than rock climbing. Couldn't get in the top chimney so opted for the step right, which feels much more like severe grade rock climbing. A truly traditional route with a bit of everything on offer.

with Dave Con
dannymoo99 10/Apr/09 AltLd

Pitch 3 was shit! A horrible climb. A Severe?? No way! Went round right.

with Tom Shooter
Hidden 10/Apr/09 Lead
Gareth T 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Greg
Greg Jones ?/Oct/08 2nd dog

Wouls not suggest this one if you have more then a 30' waist.

with Gareth Thomas
benchwarmer 14/Sep/08 Lead dnf
with Justina
peggy_on_the_rocks ?/Sep/08 2nd
with Dan
thompson1000 14/Jul/08 Lead

Climbed first 2 pitches but fitting into the 3rd was impossable for both of us. abseiled off

mitch 20/Jun/08 AltLd rpt

Abbed off April 07 as 2nd couldn't get (/fit) up 2nd pitch. Led pitches 1 and (3-4), but stepped out right on third pitch as I'm now certain I'm not a catapiller!

Hidden 20/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
stefan7n 09/Jun/08 2nd dnf


with The Radcliff, Sarah
adam06 09/Jun/08 Lead dnf

lol, hardest severe in the world? tried to do pitch 3 without going far enough into the crack cuz we didn't have the guide book.. defiantly gonna come back to this...

with Sarah Lewington and stefan roberts
ebdon 01/Jun/08 Lead

my Friend who had spent the week prior to out ascent onsighting several E3's said pitch 3 was "the hardest thing he'd done all week" needless to say I opted for the variation.

tumbling wizard ?/Jun/08 -
Rob Davies 13/May/08 2nd

Omer is skinny and fitted in easily. I tried the 1905 offwidth variation, straight up, but it was too hard!

with Omer (BMC)
Hidden 06/May/08 AltLd dnf
alwyn101 06/May/08 AltLd dnf
Hidden 03/May/08 AltLd dnf
Neil Adams 03/Nov/07 AltLd

I can't quite decide whether this was really great fun of absolutely horrible - a bit of both I suspect. I think the topo in the N Wales Rock guide is a bit misleading - the line is shown going up the corner crack system immediately R of the wee tree but this is really hard & out of character with the rest of the route (I fell off it!). The chimney on the R fits the description better and is much more in keeping with the rest of the route.

tommyzero 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S

I lead pitch two and the notorious pitch three chimney. I'm really skinny and I only just got in that crack. It's polished (or eroded by water?) and quite a hard section. Perhaps I didn't have the sequence. It felt hard but I'm not sure the moves are hard. I think it's just the confines of the space.

with Sir Rich Mc Rich
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/07 AltLd
Ben Sidsaph 09/Jun/07 AltLd

I lead the first pitch

with Andy Beverly
ducle 26/May/07 Lead dog

Tried to fit into the chimney on the third pitch - too small! It's about 20cm wide, widening a bit at the back... Did de(somebody) alternative instead.

with Jenny Young
Sgt. Vest 03/May/07 AltLd O/S
with sophie wilmes, david nicholas
Hidden 03/May/07 AltLd O/S
jenniyoung ?/May/07 -
with Duc
Rob Davies 14/Apr/07 Lead

Unable to get inside top chimney, despite trying to slide in horizontally - my chest is bigger than in 1975. Finished up De Selincourt's Variation

with Phil Ashton
Hidden 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd dog
tumbling wizard ?/Apr/07 Lead
Hidden 10/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
deanroberts ??/2007 2nd dog

a real pig of a climb... very hard for the grade!!!

fran04 ??/2007 AltLd
brighters ??/2007 -
Rob Laird 12/Nov/06 AltLd O/S

Severe my arse!! Probably not helped by wet rock. Got to go back and do it when it's dry

with AJ
beegsyboy 08/Sep/06 2nd O/S

Oh my God!!!! Can't believe I survived the final chimney crack! Fun...kinda..

with Eccie + Lewis
Neil Mackenzie 08/Sep/06 2nd O/S

Emm, what can i say..... possibly the most entertaining struggle on the planet, well worth doing!!!!

with Tim + Lewis
lewisl 08/Sep/06 Lead O/S

A battle and a half but possibly the most fun route i tried that week in ogwen

with Tim and Bell
GuyC 17/Jun/06 AltLd O/S


with Pete K, Jon Bell
emlynroberts ??/2006 AltLd dnf

tried it twice failed twice.

with Katie, Si Creer
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Hidden 15/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
david morse ?/Oct/05 AltLd
with chris todd
bigie bob ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

Possibly the greatest route in the entire world!

Clucky 10/Jun/05 AltLd dog

You've just not done this route, unless you've dogged it, got jammed in the crack; when the only that gets you through it is the idea of mountain rescue turning up with the lube!

with Daniel O'Neill; Drew Withey
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ?/Oct/04 2nd
kp64zl ?/Oct/04 Lead
with Oliver Imray, Chris Imray
lost.arrow 09/May/04 -
caradoc 22/Jul/03 AltLd O/S

Don't think we ever managed to squeeze through. I think it would have involved stripping off and breathing out, not an attractive proposition.

with john b
Mark Riley ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
jimshrimp 25/Jun/03 AltLd

No way was I fitting into that crack, despite numerous attempts. Luckily we had a copy of the Ogwen Guide with us. De Selincourts Variation providing a suitable alternative pitch, but did miss out the point of the climb. Recommended climb for stick-thin climbers carrying no kit.

Hidden 11/Jun/03 Lead O/S
rob wmc ?/May/03 AltLd O/S

We used the L/H crack to start, awkward, but less polished than the original, at the top the fun starts! If doing the inside route take off your harness and drag it in after you (unless you're super skinny). The crack opens up inside and includes a fixed wire. Headtorch may be useful.

with Andy
Ben1983 ?/Mar/03 AltLd O/S
Derek Ryden 02/Aug/02 Solo


Alastair Hudson 04/Jan/02 Lead O/S
with Clare Young
petekeron ??/2002 Lead O/S


Brown ??/2002 Solo O/S
Tarquin ??/2002 -
MjrTom ??/2001 Lead
fenn123 ??/2001 -
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
csalvage 16/Apr/00 AltLd O/S

Mass ascent with Dave B, Billy, Ali and Phil. Pitch 3 claustrophobic, many took harness off, two avoided. Led 1 and 4

with Bryan
marcoleptic ??/2000 -
BenTiffin 03/Sep/98 Lead

Tight - had to remove my fleece to get in the crack.

Hidden 02/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/97 Solo
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
TobyA 15/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with Miia
big 02/Jul/95 -
snowy_woodruff 26/Apr/95 -
Hidden 30/Jan/93 AltLd O/S
timreynolds 12/Oct/91 Lead
with Eric Sneyd
Martyn ??/1991 Lead O/S
OMSKB ?/Jun/89 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 2nd O/S
Andy Say 29/Jun/88 Solo O/S
michael burrows 09/Aug/87 AltLd rpt
with pete roberts
Ched ?/Jun/87 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Backinthegame ?/Apr/86 Lead O/S
with Dad
Hidden ??/1985 2nd O/S
wynaptomos ?/Jul/84 Solo
nigehughes ?/Jul/84 Lead
with Paul Fowles
sadams 15/Aug/83 AltLd
with Plas y Brenin Course
Nigel Bond 16/May/82 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
nniff ??/1982 -
Richard Weller 25/Aug/81 AltLd

DJ 1 adn 4. Me 2 adn 3

with D Jones
Norman_P_W ??/1981 -
with Bob M
Bob M ??/1981 -
with Chris Bristow, Norman Wright
Mark Kemball 09/Feb/80 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
charlesmfrench 13/Jun/79 Solo O/S
Brian Wilderspin 20/Sep/78 Solo
Ian Jones ?/Sep/78 Solo rpt
with Chris Newton
Bolt Phobia 09/May/77 Lead
Hammy 16/Apr/77 AltLd
with Jonathon Stacey
mikej 31/Oct/76 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
Hidden ??/1976 Lead
Hidden ??/1976 -
Rob Davies 15/Feb/75 AltLd

Stripped down to shirt on a cold day to get inside top chimney. Paul unable to follow in boots because his feet were too big.

with Paul Welford (ICMC), Pete McNulty (ICMC)
Sean Kelly ?/Sep/74 -
Mike Owen ?/Aug/74 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
Rob Davies 12/Sep/73 Lead dnf

In boots 1st groove would have been very hard

with Allan Sleight
Ian Jones ?/Jun/73 Lead O/S

Utterly exhausting!

with Bill Dean
Bob M ?/Jun/73 -
tapley 15/Jun/69 Lead
Gordon Stainforth 07/Aug/68 AltLd

I led the traditional chimney pitch up the inside - far inside where it widens a bit. John was so put off by my grunts etc that he seconded up the outside (De Selincourt's Variation)

with John Stainforth
Martin Bennett 09/Mar/68 -
with Doug Bonney, Joe Brown
auldscotal ??/1965 AltLd O/S

A real squeeze

with John Jones
uphillnow ?/May/64 Lead

whit monday

with John Sargeant
kjacks ??/1964 2nd

By the inside route - even as skinny teens we still had to strip some clothes off - only V Diff in our 60s guide. Also De Selincourt's Variation (not bad) and via LH crack.

with Dave Peers
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Votes cast 52
Votes cast 57
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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