3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route which takes an intricate line through the steeper lower walls of the buttress, culminating in some exposed moves around the big roof.
1) 4c, 30m. Climb the central of three grooves to a small overhang. Step right then climb up until you can move back left to a triangular overhang. Move left then climb up and back right above a roof. The stance is up and right.
2) 5b, 18m. Traverse leftwards to a block. Climb up the corner to a roof and pull over with difficulty to a ledge up and left. Traverse left to a corner and step down onto a ramp. Follow this across the steep wall to a belay above a groove.
3) 5a, 30m. Climb the groove to the top of a block. A rib on the left then leads up until you can move back into the main corner. Continue up this to a rest below the roof, then traverse right across the slab and up to the roof. Drop down right then reach up into a groove which leads to Sunset Ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Ingle Routes, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
RockWest 14 Jul AltLd P1 and P3 bit dirty and damp. Micro cams ~ rock 2-4 protect crux. Belayed at top of 2nd grove rather than going around to final corner. It protects second perfectly.
P1 and P3 bit dirty and damp. Micro cams ~ rock 2-4 protect crux. Belayed at top of 2nd grove rather than going around to final corner. It protects second perfectly.
Bruise Apprentice 22 Jun AltLd dnf P2 - quite punchy, and tricky to protect if you can't reach the thin crack (aliens). Was very pleased to have nailed the crux (I made some interesting noises). Seb got to the belay and didn't want to continue, so we abbed off. C'est la vie.
P2 - quite punchy, and tricky to protect if you can't reach the thin crack (aliens). Was very pleased to have nailed the crux (I made some interesting noises). Seb got to the belay and didn't want to continue, so we abbed off. C'est la vie.
graham21 27 May Lead O/S
williemiller 27 May AltLd O/S
with graham
with graham
therat 20 Apr Lead P2
P2
Hidden 9 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Owen W-G 9 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
mike lawrence? 25 Jul, 2018 AltLd Led the middle pitch, fab route.
with James the Navigator
Led the middle pitch, fab route.
with James the Navigator
Ewan Russell 7 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 7 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 4 Jun, 2018 AltLd dog
geoff b 3 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Wow, what an improbable route! Easily E1, how was it given HVS in the CC guidebook?! Led P2 & found it quite sustained. Wouldn't have liked to fall off the crux (see below). Belayed under the big roof at some huge Damoclean blocks....gulp! Enjoyed Jabberwocky more.
with Rod W
Wow, what an improbable route! Easily E1, how was it given HVS in the CC guidebook?! Led P2 & found it quite sustained. Wouldn't have liked to fall off the crux (see below). Belayed under the big roof at some huge Damoclean blocks....gulp! Enjoyed Jabberwocky more.
with Rod W
Dave Almond 30 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Burly crux plus very enjoyable top pitch.
with Philip Ingle
Burly crux plus very enjoyable top pitch.
with Philip Ingle
Hidden 30 May, 2018 AltLd
alexjz 19 May, 2018 2nd O/S
with George Ullrich
with George Ullrich
ben1987 13 May, 2018 AltLd O/S P1 and 3. Wild moves and exposure on p3. Excellent route
P1 and 3. Wild moves and exposure on p3. Excellent route
Adam Coles 13 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
with ben1987
with ben1987
Hidden 6 May, 2018 AltLd
ned_85 5 May, 2018 AltLd
OliverRoss 5 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
with ned_85
with ned_85
simibrown 29 Apr, 2018 AltLd dnf I started right of the route where it looked cleaner / drier, but was a harder start. Very cold day, Rich took a nasty leader fall on the crux of p2. So abbed off from first belay stance.
with Rich
I started right of the route where it looked cleaner / drier, but was a harder start. Very cold day, Rich took a nasty leader fall on the crux of p2. So abbed off from first belay stance.
with Rich
Climbingspike ??, 2018 -
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Hidden 26 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd
perrys 6 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S I led P2 & P3. P2 is clearly the hardest and the hard bits are protected (worth having aliens) but P3 is where it earns the three stars. Fantastic positions, a varied and interesting line and great protection everywhere. Loved this climb.
with Tony Hextall
I led P2 & P3. P2 is clearly the hardest and the hard bits are protected (worth having aliens) but P3 is where it earns the three stars. Fantastic positions, a varied and interesting line and great protection everywhere. Loved this climb.
with Tony Hextall
rosiehawker 17 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S I led pitch 2
I led pitch 2
mikeski 17 Jun, 2017 AltLd rpt
Rob Pitt 20 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Worth taking some small cams for the P2 crux. Not a 3 star route.
with Lou
Worth taking some small cams for the P2 crux. Not a 3 star route.
with Lou
Julesthe1st 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Led 2 and 3. Pitch 2 the physical crux which you need to press on through three steep moves. I thought Pitch 3 was quite airy and insecure feeling. Great route!
with Mike Peak
Led 2 and 3. Pitch 2 the physical crux which you need to press on through three steep moves. I thought Pitch 3 was quite airy and insecure feeling. Great route!
with Mike Peak
Chriswallis2 29 May, 2016 Lead O/S Climbed p1&2 in 1 pitch. Quite gripping. Belayed on a threaded spike too high. Decided to ab from there instead of faffing to get back on route. After crux mini roof on p2 keep going left, dont go up to threads. Go left until large hanging block and cracks.
with Mike W
Climbed p1&2 in 1 pitch. Quite gripping. Belayed on a threaded spike too high. Decided to ab from there instead of faffing to get back on route. After crux mini roof on p2 keep going left, dont go up to threads. Go left until large hanging block and cracks.
with Mike W
JendeHoxar 29 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Jez
with Jez
Si ??, 2016 AltLd
with Mark R
with Mark R
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
CharlieMack 16 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hannes B 16 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S p2&4
p2&4
tmawer 4 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Really enjoyed this!
Really enjoyed this!
Hidden 4 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Sardien 3 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Really good, led P1 & P3. I thought P2 was well hard and bold
with nawface
Really good, led P1 & P3. I thought P2 was well hard and bold
with nawface
Hidden 13 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Dan Hale 20 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Ollie Halford
with Ollie Halford
Lenny 21 Sep, 2014 AltLd
lanky 14 Sep, 2014 AltLd
with Crook
with Crook
Sut 8 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
tim newton 17 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
with mike grant
with mike grant
Hidden 18 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 AltLd
with Bill Preston
with Bill Preston
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Hidden 12 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S
tatz45 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led 2nd (crux) pitch. Pretty bold after the crux.
with Will Harris
Led 2nd (crux) pitch. Pretty bold after the crux.
with Will Harris
Derek Ryden 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Glynne Andrew
with Glynne Andrew
Jillybean 9 Jun, 2013 AltLd I led P3, Brad did P1 and 2
with Brad
I led P3, Brad did P1 and 2
with Brad
Owain Llewelyn 2 Jun, 2013 AltLd E1 would be fair. Abbed off and did Jabberwocky afterwards which made for a great morning.
with Doddy
E1 would be fair. Abbed off and did Jabberwocky afterwards which made for a great morning.
with Doddy
Hidden ?Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
highclimber 16 May, 2012 AltLd
with rjb
with rjb
Hidden 16 May, 2012 AltLd dnf
juza 23 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
MikePycroft 3 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Led p1 & p3
with Elfyn
Led p1 & p3
with Elfyn
Hidden 2 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Apr, 2011 AltLd
brockers 28 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Lovely route on a fine crag. Led Pitch 2. Easy E1 is a fair grade bearing in mind where the route is and where the 'crux' is.
Lovely route on a fine crag. Led Pitch 2. Easy E1 is a fair grade bearing in mind where the route is and where the 'crux' is.
Pay Attention 23 Apr, 2011 AltLd
Misha 22 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S An impressive crag in a lovely location in an area of Snowdonia where you wouldn't expect to find any cliffs of note. The route follows a devious line through intimidating terrain and looks very unlikely at the grade. HVS in Paul's '89 guide, E1 in North Wales Rock - I'd say hard HVS 5b is about right. Led P2 and P3. Paul fell off on the crux on P2 and took a while to get back on - it didn't help that I couldn't see him as the belay is round a corner. Finished up the last two pitches of Ordinary Route, which were very pleasant - led the second pitch of that, which was a great little ridge scramble. Topping out provided a real mountain day feeling Only regret was not taking the trainers up as the stone shoot descent was the worst I've experienced in the UK so far. A great suggestion from Paul.
An impressive crag in a lovely location in an area of Snowdonia where you wouldn't expect to find any cliffs of note. The route follows a devious line through intimidating terrain and looks very unlikely at the grade. HVS in Paul's '89 guide, E1 in North Wales Rock - I'd say hard HVS 5b is about right. Led P2 and P3. Paul fell off on the crux on P2 and took a while to get back on - it didn't help that I couldn't see him as the belay is round a corner. Finished up the last two pitches of Ordinary Route, which were very pleasant - led the second pitch of that, which was a great little ridge scramble. Topping out provided a real mountain day feeling Only regret was not taking the trainers up as the stone shoot descent was the worst I've experienced in the UK so far. A great suggestion from Paul.
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden 20 Jun, 2010 AltLd
Ross Davidson 3 Jun, 2010 AltLd
brian watson 26 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S lead p2
lead p2
scott titt 26 Sep, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 13 Sep, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 13 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?May, 2009 -
Brown ??, 2008 Lead O/S
with Henry
with Henry
Jayney D 15 Apr, 2007 2nd
with Ste D
with Ste D
tumbling wizard ?Mar, 2007 2nd
barni ??, 2007 AltLd
with Paul James
with Paul James
Hidden 8 Jul, 2006 2nd
caradoc 4 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S Tricky second pitch. I think I expected to find a peg but it had disappeared. HVS 5a then. Overall a superb route.
with john b
Tricky second pitch. I think I expected to find a peg but it had disappeared. HVS 5a then. Overall a superb route.
with john b
bobette ?Jun, 2006 2nd β
with mike
with mike
spoony84 ??, 2006 AltLd O/S with jamie smith
with jamie smith
Hidden 11 Sep, 2005 AltLd
Hidden ?Sep, 2005 AltLd
DaveHK 13 Jun, 2004 AltLd
with Karl Atherton
with Karl Atherton
Nigel Coe 15 Jun, 2003 -
with Paul Jenkinson
with Paul Jenkinson
pete johnson 14 Jul, 2002 Lead O/S
with Lun
with Lun
Iain Brown 7 May, 2000 Lead dnf Retreated from ledge above P2 crux due to rain
with Gerdy
Retreated from ledge above P2 crux due to rain
with Gerdy
runestone 1 Jan, 1995 -
runestone 1 Jan, 1995 -
wynaptomos ?Sep, 1994 2nd O/S
pauldrew ??, 1993 - Some time early nineties.
with Dominic Leggett
Some time early nineties.
with Dominic Leggett
Ched ??, 1993 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
Hidden ??, 1992 AltLd
RichardMc 18 May, 1991 Lead
with Geoff Dunne
with Geoff Dunne
Hidden 5 Aug, 1990 AltLd
Hidden ?Sep, 1989 2nd
Hidden 30 Oct, 1988 AltLd
Neil McA 22 Oct, 1983 AltLd O/S Felt like 5c. good and exposed.
with Andy Scrase
Felt like 5c. good and exposed.
with Andy Scrase
charlesmfrench 2 Jul, 1983 AltLd O/S 2,L,2.
2,L,2.
uphillnow 2 Jul, 1983 AltLd
Hidden ?Apr, 1981 Lead
Ian Jones ??, 1980 2nd O/S A very difficult crux which felt like 5c.
with Neil Plant
A very difficult crux which felt like 5c.
with Neil Plant
Brian Wilderspin 25 Sep, 1978 AltLd Gordon is a moron!
with Dave Winter
Gordon is a moron!
with Dave Winter
Rob Davies 11 Jun, 1978 AltLd This may have had a peg for aid back then
with Nige Corby (CUMC)
This may have had a peg for aid back then
with Nige Corby (CUMC)
Bolt Phobia 27 May, 1977 Lead O/S
with Kit Spencer
with Kit Spencer
rogerskews 31 Jul, 1976 AltLd George used to race motorbikes, and thought the danger of climbing was a piece of piss by comparison
with George Hardill
George used to race motorbikes, and thought the danger of climbing was a piece of piss by comparison
with George Hardill
Hidden 20 Jun, 1976 Lead
Hidden 20 Jun, 1976 2nd
granitbahn ??, 1975 AltLd
Nigel Bond 22 Jun, 1974 AltLd
with Ben Foord, Pete Dainty
with Ben Foord, Pete Dainty
Martin Bennett 18 Aug, 1973 - Followed a pair up it. The 2nd turned out to be Pete Crew, who said he was finding it hard having not been climbing for "years".
with RA
Followed a pair up it. The 2nd turned out to be Pete Crew, who said he was finding it hard having not been climbing for "years".
with RA
Rick51 24 Jun, 1973 2nd
Hidden ?May, 1973 AltLd
Seymore Butt ??, 1970 AltLd
with Mick Briggs
with Mick Briggs
mikej 10 Apr, 1968 AltLd To recover gear and complete the climb.
with Wil Hurford
To recover gear and complete the climb.
with Wil Hurford
mikej 9 Apr, 1968 AltLd dnf Retreated from stance at end of current pitch 2.
with Wil Hurford
Retreated from stance at end of current pitch 2.
with Wil Hurford
eroica64 15 Jul, 1967 AltLd dnf Failed.
with Percy aka Mike Spring
Failed.
with Percy aka Mike Spring
jcw ?May, 1966 -
with Ron James
with Ron James
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 26
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set