Rockfax Description
Both technical and adventurous, the classic of the buttress is a superb route and, since the demise of the ancient peg, is now a slightly bolder affair.
1) 20m. Climb easily up a short groove to a large ledge. Follow the ledge leftwards and move up to a stance under the clean groove.
2) 5a, 20m. Follow the groove above to a bulge, pull over this and step right onto the clean slab. Climb the crack on the left until a traverse leftwards to the arete is possible. Continue to a good belay.
3) 5b, 25m. Move up and right to the narrowest part of the capping roof. Turn the beefy roof and balance leftward into the corner. Move up, then traverse right onto a technical slab and continue to a ledge and perched block. Pass the block to gain a scoop, leave the scoop on its right side and continue diagonally left to a good stance.
4) 4b, 15m. Follow the line of least resistance up the final slabs. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Note: P2 and P3 are more like 40m each

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, Caff's Cool E1s List, Ingle Routes, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Definitive *** Llanberis

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Lizzie Richardson 30 Aug -
Harry Martin 26 Aug Lead O/S
with Hayley Russell
with Hayley Russell
LucaC 2 Aug AltLd Wet.
Wet.
Freshprintce 27 Jul AltLd
K Farrell 27 Jul AltLd O/S
The Grist 27 Jul AltLd O/S
with Alice Thompson
with Alice Thompson
BC 16 Jul AltLd O/S Lead P3 + 4 combined. George lead p1 & 2. Quality moved into the groove. You wouldn't want to do it in the wet. 3 star classic!
Lead P3 + 4 combined. George lead p1 & 2. Quality moved into the groove. You wouldn't want to do it in the wet. 3 star classic!
George_Surf 16 Jul AltLd O/S Led p1 up the groove, quite technical. Ben led through the roof to the top. Great rock!
Led p1 up the groove, quite technical. Ben led through the roof to the top. Great rock!
Martin McKenna - UKC 8 Jul AltLd O/S
robertmichaellovell 8 Jul AltLd With the first couple of pitches of 10deg North
with Martin McKenna
With the first couple of pitches of 10deg North
with Martin McKenna
Hidden 5 Jul AltLd O/S
Tom Livingstone 21 Jun Solo rpt
HarryC 22 May AltLd
JRJones 21 May AltLd p2,4
p2,4
Tom McCabe 21 May AltLd O/S Absolutely love the rock on this buttress. Approach pitch, and second proper pitch (ran it to the top of the crag). Belay below the roof is a bit manky - small wires to back it up or maybe belay a bit lower down.
with JRJones
Absolutely love the rock on this buttress. Approach pitch, and second proper pitch (ran it to the top of the crag). Belay below the roof is a bit manky - small wires to back it up or maybe belay a bit lower down.
with JRJones
Hidden 14 May -
ripper 20 Apr AltLd Led p1 & 3, lovely conditions in the shade on a baking hot day.
with Matt Chap
Led p1 & 3, lovely conditions in the shade on a baking hot day.
with Matt Chap
Cam Bevan 24 Oct, 2018 AltLd Led P2, which was the hardest 5a I've ever climbed...
Led P2, which was the hardest 5a I've ever climbed...
SimonWooden 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S I led pitches 1 and 2, Mark led 3 and 4 together. Several wet areas including the grove on pitch 2 and the important layback hold on pitch 3. I moved out to the arete too early on pitch 2 but reversed and then ascended the grove to join arete higher up. We all thought pitch 2 worth 5b in the conditions and generally the consensus was that it was an adventurous day.
with michael woolcott, Mark Lewis
I led pitches 1 and 2, Mark led 3 and 4 together. Several wet areas including the grove on pitch 2 and the important layback hold on pitch 3. I moved out to the arete too early on pitch 2 but reversed and then ascended the grove to join arete higher up. We all thought pitch 2 worth 5b in the conditions and generally the consensus was that it was an adventurous day.
with michael woolcott, Mark Lewis
NinaR 26 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led second and forth
with josefft
Led second and forth
with josefft
josefft 26 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1 and 3.
with NinaR
Led pitch 1 and 3.
with NinaR
joe.91 13 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Mega route! Little confused by the guide description, mentioned a thread but there was a peg?
with Jase
Mega route! Little confused by the guide description, mentioned a thread but there was a peg?
with Jase
Flavio 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Big Lee 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led the second pitch. Found a surprisingly bomber sky hook placement near the old peg. Great route.
with annak
Led the second pitch. Found a surprisingly bomber sky hook placement near the old peg. Great route.
with annak
Whorlhill 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd
annak 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led the 5b pitch - fantastic climb, not too sustained but continuously interesting the whole way.
with Big Lee
Led the 5b pitch - fantastic climb, not too sustained but continuously interesting the whole way.
with Big Lee
Hidden 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 2 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Jul, 2018 -
danimal 1 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
GeorgT ?Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
jasewilson ?Jul, 2018 -
Martin Bagshaw 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Led all apart from scramble.
with danimal
Led all apart from scramble.
with danimal
Bill Lawrence 29 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with rob cooper
with rob cooper
Hidden 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with Blake
with Blake
lcullum7 13 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
with mmason1
with mmason1
Ralfy 8 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Peter hooker
with Peter hooker
Hidden 8 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
quarrtman1 4 Jun, 2018 2nd
with mills
with mills
mr mills 4 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
with Chris
with Chris
lanky ?Jun, 2018 AltLd did the second main pitch. not as good as nexus.
with trystam
did the second main pitch. not as good as nexus.
with trystam
CharlieMack 30 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Lucy Lu
with Lucy Lu
Hidden 23 May, 2018 Lead
Mihkel 19 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Great climbing, a really enjoyable day. Delyth led P1&4 and I led the two main pitches in the middle. P2 was really interesting climbing and worth 5b in my opinion. (Note that on P2, go by the topo line rather than the description. You shouldn't "traverse left to the arete" at the first opportunity but instead continue up the corner until forced left, as per the line on the topo. I traversed left early and came up the arete which was bold and tricky.) From the top ab, you can just reach the good spike near end of P1 in 55m from where you can ab again or solo off - alternatively, there's an ab station at end of P2 but the pegs are looking pretty old...
with Delyth
Great climbing, a really enjoyable day. Delyth led P1&4 and I led the two main pitches in the middle. P2 was really interesting climbing and worth 5b in my opinion. (Note that on P2, go by the topo line rather than the description. You shouldn't "traverse left to the arete" at the first opportunity but instead continue up the corner until forced left, as per the line on the topo. I traversed left early and came up the arete which was bold and tricky.) From the top ab, you can just reach the good spike near end of P1 in 55m from where you can ab again or solo off - alternatively, there's an ab station at end of P2 but the pegs are looking pretty old...
with Delyth
Ids1165 ??, 2018 Lead
Climbingspike ??, 2018 -
Scraggadoo 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd Led top pitch
Led top pitch
Harry Martin ?Aug, 2017 Lead
peter.herd 25 Jul, 2017 Lead
with D Whitlum
with D Whitlum
Hidden 18 Jul, 2017 AltLd rpt
Hidden 13 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 9 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
wi11 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd rpt
with Sally
with Sally
slowmotion 18 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Chuffed with the P2 lead. 5a my bum - I thought it was scary!
with ned_85
Chuffed with the P2 lead. 5a my bum - I thought it was scary!
with ned_85
ned_85 18 Jun, 2017 AltLd
jezb1 17 Jun, 2017 Lead From the belay of Ten Degrees P2.
From the belay of Ten Degrees P2.
brockers 17 Jun, 2017 Lead More mossy than expected. Good route, with short lived crux. I thought the 5a pitch was the best!
More mossy than expected. Good route, with short lived crux. I thought the 5a pitch was the best!
Hidden 17 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
cem 17 Jun, 2017 AltLd rpt Led p 2 &3. Disconcertingly damp and dirty in places. Had intended to do Black Spring but it looked too wet.
with Ian Dillon
Led p 2 &3. Disconcertingly damp and dirty in places. Had intended to do Black Spring but it looked too wet.
with Ian Dillon
Hidden 14 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 May, 2017 2nd dnf
Hidden 27 May, 2017 Lead dnf
jh1990 25 May, 2017 AltLd O/S P2
P2
steven_daniels99 22 May, 2017 Lead
jandyd05 9 May, 2017 2nd dog fell on crux move of P2. Achieved second attempt.
with John Briggs, Tom Lawfield
fell on crux move of P2. Achieved second attempt.
with John Briggs, Tom Lawfield
Hidden 9 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 9 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Led p1 and 3+4 together, another great route
Led p1 and 3+4 together, another great route
Hidden 7 May, 2017 AltLd
JackM92 ?May, 2017 AltLd O/S
joedean ??, 2017 -
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
Hidden 9 Oct, 2016 2nd
Hidden 26 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Longsufferingropeholder 26 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Some bits look like they'll never dry but are mostly avoidable. Spent half an hour looking for a suitable ab. Gave up and walked down the long way. It took ages. Did Nexus the following day and found our 70m ropes reached the ground, but don't just take my word for it - knot the ends!
with C May
Some bits look like they'll never dry but are mostly avoidable. Spent half an hour looking for a suitable ab. Gave up and walked down the long way. It took ages. Did Nexus the following day and found our 70m ropes reached the ground, but don't just take my word for it - knot the ends!
with C May
Martin Haworth 14 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Andrew Sloan 14 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Initially underwhelmed with the slimy first pitch. Then lovely friction climbing on 2nd and 3rd pitches. I led 2nd pitch which I thought was very hard and bold for 5a. Abseiled off after 5b pitch as looked like a grade 1 scramble after that.
Initially underwhelmed with the slimy first pitch. Then lovely friction climbing on 2nd and 3rd pitches. I led 2nd pitch which I thought was very hard and bold for 5a. Abseiled off after 5b pitch as looked like a grade 1 scramble after that.
therat 6 Aug, 2016 AltLd Lead P3
Lead P3
jsmcfarland ?Aug, 2016 2nd O/S Seconded both pitches. Fantastic gritstone-esque climbing
with Robert
Seconded both pitches. Fantastic gritstone-esque climbing
with Robert
UncleMephisto 19 Jul, 2016 -
Emily C 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
jonleighton 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S P1, 3 and 4
with Emily C
P1, 3 and 4
with Emily C
Hidden 18 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Ardo 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S G p1/3, me p2/4
with Geoff
G p1/3, me p2/4
with Geoff
Hidden 1 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
shed_hed 1 Jun, 2016 AltLd Nice bit of friction padding. Soloed P1, Jonny took P2, I led P3 and P4 in a oner.
Nice bit of friction padding. Soloed P1, Jonny took P2, I led P3 and P4 in a oner.
Hidden 1 Jun, 2016 2nd
Pete_Frost 30 May, 2016 AltLd rpt Led P1 - wet and a bit scary, then P3 - which repays a bit of planning and forethought when going through the crux. If you think about it beforehand, it's actually a very reasonable move. Great route. P2 is definitely easier to follow than to lead.
with Phil Creed
Led P1 - wet and a bit scary, then P3 - which repays a bit of planning and forethought when going through the crux. If you think about it beforehand, it's actually a very reasonable move. Great route. P2 is definitely easier to follow than to lead.
with Phil Creed
Hidden 30 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
hlegge 27 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Fragmod
with Fragmod
Hidden 9 May, 2016 AltLd
Cefin14 ??, 2016 -
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
nodwas 17 Aug, 2015 AltLd
foostu4 17 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Good route, found the block on p3 scary
Good route, found the block on p3 scary
Hidden 10 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
mr mills 23 Jun, 2015 AltLd rpt climbed p2, abbed off, midges out in force, pitch 2 is given 5a which is bollocks...its 5b in my book, a great pitch !!
with Roger
climbed p2, abbed off, midges out in force, pitch 2 is given 5a which is bollocks...its 5b in my book, a great pitch !!
with Roger
Hidden 23 Jun, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 23 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Marti999 19 Jun, 2015 Lead dnf got to pitch 2 belay and bailed as thought it was going to start raining.
got to pitch 2 belay and bailed as thought it was going to start raining.
shaunhumphreys 16 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Jun, 2015 -
harry_lewis 16 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Jake Young 6 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Really good route. now to do Ten Degrees North.
with dom94
Really good route. now to do Ten Degrees North.
with dom94
dom94 6 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Fragmod 22 Apr, 2015 Lead
Hidden ?Apr, 2015 AltLd
Tim Sparrow ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 Lead
jcw ??, 2015 -
Tom Livingstone 28 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S P3
with Anna Gilyeat
P3
with Anna Gilyeat
Hidden 28 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Mr-Cowdrey 14 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 2 and 4. Not as hard as some would make out. Definitely E1 and not HVS as it says on here. easy 5a moves on pitch 2, and bang on the mark 5b moves on the 3rd pitch, great climb.
with Pablo
Lead pitch 2 and 4. Not as hard as some would make out. Definitely E1 and not HVS as it says on here. easy 5a moves on pitch 2, and bang on the mark 5b moves on the 3rd pitch, great climb.
with Pablo
davebrox 14 Sep, 2014 AltLd
with Luke, Dan
with Luke, Dan
Hidden 7 Sep, 2014 AltLd
KKilroy ?Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
danwilliams99 18 Jul, 2014 Lead dnf Attempted to lead P2 but couldn't get round the bulge. Managed it just about on second.
with Liam
Attempted to lead P2 but couldn't get round the bulge. Managed it just about on second.
with Liam
Mr Tickle 15 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Felt like E1 to me. Nice climbing though. Led P2
with Motown
Felt like E1 to me. Nice climbing though. Led P2
with Motown
Motown 15 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Lead pitches 1 and 3. Great moves coming through overlap.
Lead pitches 1 and 3. Great moves coming through overlap.
Hidden 9 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Foghbags ?Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
frost 29 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Helen, D Garry
with Helen, D Garry
Amy UT 24 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S P2 5a pitch. Daunted at the start/bulge, very pleased to do it. Lovely evening sun.
with Glyn
P2 5a pitch. Daunted at the start/bulge, very pleased to do it. Lovely evening sun.
with Glyn
Glyn 24 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Climb till dark just after summer solstice!
with Amy UT
Climb till dark just after summer solstice!
with Amy UT
Hidden 24 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2014 AltLd
Jack93 17 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead the 5a pitch. Excellent climbing with no feet holds at all! So many smears
Lead the 5a pitch. Excellent climbing with no feet holds at all! So many smears
wynaptomos 17 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
spidermonkey09 17 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Amazing. Felt pretty easy for E1 but great climbing.
with Jack93
Amazing. Felt pretty easy for E1 but great climbing.
with Jack93
Hidden 16 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
UKB Shark 14 Jun, 2014 AltLd
with Andy Boorman
with Andy Boorman
andycash 30 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
Ash Sayers 30 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
tmawer 16 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Led pitch 2
Led pitch 2
BTphonehome 16 May, 2014 AltLd O/S P1&3 - A good situation and route with 2 contrasting main pitches. Drainage channels have dried to leave large parts of the route dirty which will clean with more traffic to give the full 3* experience.
with tmawer
P1&3 - A good situation and route with 2 contrasting main pitches. Drainage channels have dried to leave large parts of the route dirty which will clean with more traffic to give the full 3* experience.
with tmawer
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 2nd dog
Steve Long ??, 2014 -
steveboote ??, 2014 AltLd
with Ewan Mcallum
with Ewan Mcallum
Si ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 2nd
Hidden ??, 2014 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2014 -
oliverpcain ??, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2014 -
stemill 31 Aug, 2013 AltLd Led the 5a pitch.
with Mike Buddle, Chris Manasseh
Led the 5a pitch.
with Mike Buddle, Chris Manasseh
Chris Manasseh 31 Aug, 2013 AltLd Led P4
with Mike Buddle, Ste Millington
Led P4
with Mike Buddle, Ste Millington
The Bad Cough 25 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
chrisallan 25 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
John sealey 24 Aug, 2013 AltLd
DaveMo 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd
with Jan
with Jan
Swotson 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P2, which was OK and fun to climb. P1 seemed harder, but was graded easier.
with Andy Brown
Led P2, which was OK and fun to climb. P1 seemed harder, but was graded easier.
with Andy Brown
Grezza 8 Aug, 2013 Lead
with Paul E
with Paul E
hfisher ?Aug, 2013 2nd
Marq 27 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S PMPM quite a tricky and delicate second pitch. apparently E1 in the new guide.
with Paul Scott
PMPM quite a tricky and delicate second pitch. apparently E1 in the new guide.
with Paul Scott
dan gibson 27 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Eszter
with Eszter
lewiz 24 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S P1,P3. Too easy for E1
with Endre Joachim Mossige
P1,P3. Too easy for E1
with Endre Joachim Mossige
JulesV 20 Jul, 2013 2nd
with Shauna Cunningham
with Shauna Cunningham
wi11 19 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S P1&3
with Helena
P1&3
with Helena
The_Boy_ODwyer 16 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Colin Harvey
with Colin Harvey
Hidden 16 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
climbingpixie 15 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led piches 1 & 3. Excellent climbing, crux is much easier than it looks.
with Jules
Led piches 1 & 3. Excellent climbing, crux is much easier than it looks.
with Jules
Hidden 14 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Andy Clarke 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Fine technical climbing and impressive situations. A Welsh heatwave gave excellent conditions for this classic route - so excellent that the previous day we'd driven non-stop for 1,000 miles to escape the rainy French Alps and take advantage of them! Arrived at the CC hut in the Pass at 3.00am, climbing by 11.00. Led the crux 5b pitch through the overhangs, but thought it felt easier overall than the big 5a pitch below.
with Tim
Fine technical climbing and impressive situations. A Welsh heatwave gave excellent conditions for this classic route - so excellent that the previous day we'd driven non-stop for 1,000 miles to escape the rainy French Alps and take advantage of them! Arrived at the CC hut in the Pass at 3.00am, climbing by 11.00. Led the crux 5b pitch through the overhangs, but thought it felt easier overall than the big 5a pitch below.
with Tim
Dan Hale 11 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Kyle87
with Kyle87
squicky 10 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Pp 1,3. Struggled with the overhang but after burning off most of my strength doing it the wrong way (too many chalked holds), finally found a way using only 3 and trusting a dodgy feeling sloper. Very pleased with myself.
with HB1
Pp 1,3. Struggled with the overhang but after burning off most of my strength doing it the wrong way (too many chalked holds), finally found a way using only 3 and trusting a dodgy feeling sloper. Very pleased with myself.
with HB1
HB1 10 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with JI
with JI
Laura Pruul 8 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Samuel Wainwright 8 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S P1, P3 and P4. P2 is a gritstone climbers wet dream! Good work Laura!
with Laura Prul
P1, P3 and P4. P2 is a gritstone climbers wet dream! Good work Laura!
with Laura Prul
Rob Pitt 7 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Helen Pitt
with Helen Pitt
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
NickJH 9 Jun, 2013 AltLd
with LiamG
with LiamG
Julesthe1st 9 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Mike Peak
with Mike Peak
EeFu 9 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1
with cem, Kirill
Led P1
with cem, Kirill
cem 9 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Led p2. To me it felt harder than pitch 3
with EeFu, Kirill
Led p2. To me it felt harder than pitch 3
with EeFu, Kirill
Col Kingshott 9 Jun, 2013 2nd
Kirill 9 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P3.
with EeFu, cem
Led P3.
with EeFu, cem
Dom Whillans 8 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Adam and Neil
with Adam and Neil
NeilGriffiths 8 Jun, 2013 Lead E1. Brilliant.
with Chriss
E1. Brilliant.
with Chriss
Hidden 8 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
MikePycroft 6 Jun, 2013 Lead rpt Pleasant hard at start of p2 to work right route
with Nathan
Pleasant hard at start of p2 to work right route
with Nathan
Skinny Kin 3 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1 and P3. Quite tough for HVS in the old guide. Bit polished in places but very interesting climbing. Delicate at times. Awkard at times.
with Pete Frost
Led P1 and P3. Quite tough for HVS in the old guide. Bit polished in places but very interesting climbing. Delicate at times. Awkard at times.
with Pete Frost
Pete_Frost 3 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Led p2 and 4. P2 very technical and a bit polished.
Led p2 and 4. P2 very technical and a bit polished.
Murilo Lessa 26 May, 2013 AltLd O/S I lead first and second the bold slab.
with Eduardo Camiletti
I lead first and second the bold slab.
with Eduardo Camiletti
rd20 19 May, 2013 AltLd dog RD P2. Stuffed up layback. Came off. Got it second time. Abbed off after P3
with Hugh CC
RD P2. Stuffed up layback. Came off. Got it second time. Abbed off after P3
with Hugh CC
anthonydouglas 6 May, 2013 AltLd Cool move on the overhang at the start of P3
Cool move on the overhang at the start of P3
Hidden 6 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
Sam Melville 6 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
PAJames ??, 2013 -
PAJames ??, 2013 -
Nick Biven ??, 2013 -
richpickford ??, 2013 -
Dizz 8 Sep, 2012 AltLd dnf Abbed off as so greasy and also bold!
with megan, David Barlow
Abbed off as so greasy and also bold!
with megan, David Barlow
steveb2006 11 Aug, 2012 Lead
Sardien 11 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S P2 and 4, brilliant, and what amazing rock! Place your foot and the rock almost pulls you up each move, love it. Pitch lengths in descriptions above are wrong - P2 and 3 are more like 35m each
with Johnny
P2 and 4, brilliant, and what amazing rock! Place your foot and the rock almost pulls you up each move, love it. Pitch lengths in descriptions above are wrong - P2 and 3 are more like 35m each
with Johnny
Hidden 11 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Daymo 15 Jul, 2012 AltLd dnf Greasy and wet, ended up abbing off. Best left until its really dry
Greasy and wet, ended up abbing off. Best left until its really dry
deejmonkey 15 Jul, 2012 AltLd
with Daymo
with Daymo
Owain Llewelyn 2 Jun, 2012 AltLd
with Brad
with Brad
mynyddresident 30 May, 2012 AltLd
with wolf
with wolf
wolf.leeb 30 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
Bex_M 27 May, 2012 AltLd dog Led P1 and P4
with Duncan Dunbar
Led P1 and P4
with Duncan Dunbar
Hidden ??, 2012 -
adie84 ??, 2012 -
Captain Gear ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
peterbeaumont ??, 2012 -
chriscarroll 3 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S How is this hvs? thought it was fairly bold with uncertain foot holds...a very grit-like route indeed
How is this hvs? thought it was fairly bold with uncertain foot holds...a very grit-like route indeed
Mike Goldthorp 3 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Love this buttress, such good rock and style of climbing, and a worthy eponymous route! Nothing desperate but always interesting, probably E1
Love this buttress, such good rock and style of climbing, and a worthy eponymous route! Nothing desperate but always interesting, probably E1
Coel Hellier 27 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Ben Tibbetts
with Ben Tibbetts
Andy Moles 26 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with CalumC
with CalumC
benkelsey 25 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S lead 2 and 4. 2 was a fantastic hvs 5a pitch - 3 stars on its own. 3rd 5b pitch felt easier somehow - and no idea what the 'bold bit' due to lack of peg is about.
with remus
lead 2 and 4. 2 was a fantastic hvs 5a pitch - 3 stars on its own. 3rd 5b pitch felt easier somehow - and no idea what the 'bold bit' due to lack of peg is about.
with remus
Alistair Corbett 24 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with ben peake
with ben peake
Hidden 24 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Lawrie Brand 13 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Clearly E1 as both guides state.. Bold second pitch and tricky moves getting into the grooves on p3
with Joe
Clearly E1 as both guides state.. Bold second pitch and tricky moves getting into the grooves on p3
with Joe
richardr 3 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 3 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P2.
with Gavlar
Led P2.
with Gavlar
Si dH 2 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Led pitch 2 (long pitch).
with Neil Furniss
Led pitch 2 (long pitch).
with Neil Furniss
Pete Wimbush 2 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S led 2nd 5a pitch
with Chris Hindley
led 2nd 5a pitch
with Chris Hindley
Hidden 3 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?May, 2011 -
Misha 25 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Originally planned to do Black Spring but it was wet so opted for this instead. Paul had a go at P2 but backed off at the crux move so I had to take over. Cold fingers didn't help - wasn't as cold as on Llech Ddu the previous day but they still went a bit numb and yellow, which didn't help on the small and slopey holds. They warmed back up on the second half of P2, which was fairly straightforward but enjoyable. The first half felt like E1 5a due to a few 5a moves above uninspiring gear. Perhaps even 5b but that's probably due to the cold fingers. Anyway, great pitch. The overhand pitch was less sustained but thoroughly enjoyable. The overhang was awkward - got my right foot a bit stuck - and a bit physical but fairly short lived. Paul had backed off it c. '96 and was pleased to do it fairly easily on second this time. Led P1, 2 and 3. Definitely deserves E1 overall.
Originally planned to do Black Spring but it was wet so opted for this instead. Paul had a go at P2 but backed off at the crux move so I had to take over. Cold fingers didn't help - wasn't as cold as on Llech Ddu the previous day but they still went a bit numb and yellow, which didn't help on the small and slopey holds. They warmed back up on the second half of P2, which was fairly straightforward but enjoyable. The first half felt like E1 5a due to a few 5a moves above uninspiring gear. Perhaps even 5b but that's probably due to the cold fingers. Anyway, great pitch. The overhand pitch was less sustained but thoroughly enjoyable. The overhang was awkward - got my right foot a bit stuck - and a bit physical but fairly short lived. Paul had backed off it c. '96 and was pleased to do it fairly easily on second this time. Led P1, 2 and 3. Definitely deserves E1 overall.
Pay Attention 25 Apr, 2011 2nd
with Misha
with Misha
Wilbur 24 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P2 which was probably 5b rather than 5a in my opinion. Quite necky as well when traversing across at the start... awesome pitch and great route overall. Definitely E1...
with Paul Winder
Led P2 which was probably 5b rather than 5a in my opinion. Quite necky as well when traversing across at the start... awesome pitch and great route overall. Definitely E1...
with Paul Winder
dan ely 19 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S direct start is rubbish
direct start is rubbish
tim newton 19 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with dan ely
with dan ely
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
mwatson ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 AltLd O/S
crag_monster ?Sep, 2010 AltLd
with John Vincent
with John Vincent
beci tointen ?Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with my uncle carl
with my uncle carl
mr mills 22 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with edwin
with edwin
pabbage 22 Jun, 2010 AltLd
Guy Wilson 22 Jun, 2010 AltLd
with Paulo
with Paulo
pebbles 20 Jun, 2010 2nd led easy ungraded first pitch, found next two pitches very difficult,there was some anti gravity assistance on the crux of pitch 3.
led easy ungraded first pitch, found next two pitches very difficult,there was some anti gravity assistance on the crux of pitch 3.
david morse 20 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with lole
with lole
DubyaJamesDubya 18 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
with Andrew Bevan
Hidden 4 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
steve prior ?Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Andy C
with Andy C
Gazleah 23 May, 2010 Lead O/S
tom.ireson 23 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Gazleah
with Gazleah
soph ?May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Carl Reilly
with Carl Reilly
simon kimber 28 Apr, 2010 AltLd climbed in 2 big pitches, tom did the first, i got the second.
with Tom Pearson
climbed in 2 big pitches, tom did the first, i got the second.
with Tom Pearson
Hidden 26 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
Tomprusk 17 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
james chesmer ??, 2010 AltLd dnf
with Ewan Russell
with Ewan Russell
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden 15 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
Liam FLeming 14 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with merlin gallery
with merlin gallery
Ewan Russell 11 Sep, 2009 AltLd dnf Leg slipped on the mud on 2nd pitch, then neither of us could do the crux. So retreated.
with James Chesmer
Leg slipped on the mud on 2nd pitch, then neither of us could do the crux. So retreated.
with James Chesmer
Chad123 8 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Recently up to E1 but more like HVS as only one 5b move. Rock is excellent especially on pitch 2.
with sgl
Recently up to E1 but more like HVS as only one 5b move. Rock is excellent especially on pitch 2.
with sgl
sgl 8 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
with chad
with chad
irish paul 25 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Joyce
with Sarah Joyce
Sarah Black 25 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S A bit green at some points...
A bit green at some points...
Hidden 2 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Jul, 2008 2nd dnf
Julesthe1st 26 Jul, 2008 AltLd dnf 8pm. Ran out of Time. Had to Ab off
8pm. Ran out of Time. Had to Ab off
francois 7 Jun, 2008 -
with Olaf, Ben
with Olaf, Ben
C coldwell-storry 1 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Neil Chelton
with Neil Chelton
Carly 16 May, 2008 AltLd
with james
with james
Owain Llewelyn 14 May, 2008 Lead
with Phil
with Phil
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Marcus ??, 2008 -
Matt Vigg ??, 2008 -
Al Evans ??, 2008 -
kingholmesy ??, 2008 2nd dnf Masive thunder storm complete with lightening and pissing rain at the top of pitch 2. Sheltered under the overhang and then abbed off.
with Brian and Tom Eagle
Masive thunder storm complete with lightening and pissing rain at the top of pitch 2. Sheltered under the overhang and then abbed off.
with Brian and Tom Eagle
zero six ??, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Oct, 2007 AltLd
Hidden 10 Jun, 2007 Lead
Owen W-G 20 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S Led roof pitch.
with Robin
Led roof pitch.
with Robin
Mark Stevenson 15 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Oli Noakes
with Oli Noakes
Hidden ?Apr, 2007 Lead
bigbobbyking ?Mar, 2007 2nd O/S
with Chris Bull
with Chris Bull
Hidden 3 Feb, 2007 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ??, 2007 -
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
topsyturvy ??, 2007 AltLd O/S p2.p4
p2.p4
Hidden ??, 2007 AltLd O/S
ritchierich 10 Aug, 2006 AltLd rpt Lead 5b pitch this time round.
Lead 5b pitch this time round.
steve taylor 16 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Steve Williams
with Steve Williams
Hidden 15 Jul, 2006 2nd dog
Hidden 13 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 14 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Rebecca
with Rebecca
ritchierich ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Rob Greenwood
with Rob Greenwood
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
tom.e ?Aug, 2005 AltLd dog
with Charlie Everett
with Charlie Everett
geoff b 10 Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S A super route on super rock.
A super route on super rock.
MikePycroft 10 Jun, 2005 AltLd rpt
with geoff b
with geoff b
a_radiohead_fan ??, 2005 -
Hidden 27 Aug, 2003 2nd O/S
Samuel Palmer 27 Aug, 2003 2nd
with Ric the Guide, Gareth
with Ric the Guide, Gareth
Mark Riley ?Aug, 2003 AltLd
with Stuart Greenall
with Stuart Greenall
James B 28 Jun, 2003 -
with Phil
with Phil
caradoc 1 Jun, 2003 AltLd O/S
with john b
with john b
Tim M ??, 2003 Lead O/S
Paul Boardman ??, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Iain Boardman
with Iain Boardman
Tim M ?Jul, 2002 Lead
Tim M ?Jul, 2002 Lead
climbergg ?Jul, 2002 2nd
with Tim M
with Tim M
Just Another Dave ??, 2002 Lead O/S
jgordon75 ?Jul, 2001 -
with Luke Foulger
with Luke Foulger
WB 26 Jun, 2000 AltLd O/S
with Paul
with Paul
Hidden 15 May, 2000 AltLd O/S
ArnaudG ??, 2000 -
Roget 18 Jun, 1999 2nd O/S
with jim
with jim
Hidden 2 May, 1999 AltLd
mux ??, 1999 AltLd
lost.arrow 29 May, 1998 AltLd
with Tim Malone
with Tim Malone
Iain Brown 14 Aug, 1997 -
with Dave
with Dave
Ratfeeder 19 Jul, 1997 AltLd O/S led crux pitch
with Phil
led crux pitch
with Phil
tlr 18 May, 1997 Lead
with Richard
with Richard
Scott McRae 3 May, 1997 AltLd O/S Another fantastic climb. Led 1st and 3rd. Bulge on 2nd pitch felt much less secure than leading more technically difficult 3rd pitch. Poor hex for pro I thought.
with Bob Last
Another fantastic climb. Led 1st and 3rd. Bulge on 2nd pitch felt much less secure than leading more technically difficult 3rd pitch. Poor hex for pro I thought.
with Bob Last
Ched ??, 1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
Hidden ??, 1997 AltLd O/S
babymoac 8 Sep, 1996 AltLd
with Chris F
with Chris F
pete johnson 24 Jul, 1996 AltLd
with Hughie
with Hughie
Jon Read ?Jun, 1996 AltLd
with Glyn Stanworth
with Glyn Stanworth
Nick Haine 20 Aug, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Jonathan
with Jonathan
goi.ashmore 6 Aug, 1995 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
with Roy Thomas
Hidden 9 Jul, 1995 Lead O/S
AlanLittle ?Jul, 1995 2nd
with Al Metelko
with Al Metelko
Neil McA 14 Apr, 1995 AltLd rpt
with Clive Davis
with Clive Davis
Dave Musgrove Jnr 24 Mar, 1995 AltLd
with Emmy McCowen
with Emmy McCowen
Hidden ??, 1995 Lead
rurp ??, 1995 Lead
ste_d 19 Jul, 1994 AltLd O/S
Mike_d78 16 Jul, 1994 AltLd O/S Fantastic exposure on traverse
with ste_d
Fantastic exposure on traverse
with ste_d
Hidden 30 May, 1994 AltLd
pauldrew ??, 1994 AltLd
D Tempest 3 Jul, 1993 AltLd
with Michelle
with Michelle
Hidden 23 Jun, 1993 AltLd
Hidden 7 May, 1993 AltLd
rob.grafton 28 Jun, 1992 AltLd
with Bruce
with Bruce
Dave Cundy ??, 1992 AltLd O/S
with Paul Taylor
with Paul Taylor
AlanLittle ??, 1992 AltLd
nuts and bolts ?May, 1991 -
surfbish ?May, 1990 Lead O/S
bruce ??, 1990 -
Seymore Butt ??, 1990 AltLd
with Spuz
with Spuz
michael burrows 3 Jul, 1988 AltLd O/S led 3rd pitch
with pete roberts
led 3rd pitch
with pete roberts
mark-abz 18 Jun, 1988 Lead
with Phill R
with Phill R
goshawk ?May, 1988 Lead
with JI
with JI
andy gittins ??, 1988 -
Richard Weller 20 Jun, 1987 AltLd I led 1,3,4
with john sanders
I led 1,3,4
with john sanders
eroica64 14 Jun, 1986 2nd
with John Graeme
with John Graeme
RichardMc 19 Oct, 1985 AltLd
with John Chiverton
with John Chiverton
Hidden 6 Sep, 1985 AltLd O/S
GuyM ??, 1985 -
Melok ??, 1985 Lead
Robmwatt ??, 1984 -
Simon Yearsley 13 Jun, 1983 -
with Steve Adderley
with Steve Adderley
Mike Owen 2 Jun, 1982 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
nniff ??, 1982 -
steveboote ??, 1982 AltLd
with Tony Smith
with Tony Smith
Hidden ??, 1982 Lead
Hidden 6 Sep, 1981 AltLd
Brian Wilderspin 16 Aug, 1981 AltLd
The Reaper 2 Aug, 1981 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Apr, 1981 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1981 Lead
clanger ??, 1980 Lead
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Ian Jones ??, 1980 Lead O/S
with Mike Wright
with Mike Wright
Neil McA 27 Jul, 1979 2nd O/S
mikej 17 Jul, 1979 Lead
with Tony Waite
with Tony Waite
Gordon Stainforth 22 Jul, 1978 2nd
with Dave Langmead
with Dave Langmead
Falko 1 May, 1978 AltLd O/S We dispensed with the pegs which were then in use on pitches 2 and 3. I pencilled 'Excellent Route' beside the guidebook description to this route.
with Chris Astill (Shilling Rabbit)
We dispensed with the pegs which were then in use on pitches 2 and 3. I pencilled 'Excellent Route' beside the guidebook description to this route.
with Chris Astill (Shilling Rabbit)
Derek Ryden ?Apr, 1978 AltLd O/S
with Steve Platt, Andy Draper
with Steve Platt, Andy Draper
Lone Rider 9 Jul, 1977 AltLd O/S
with Mark Thompson
with Mark Thompson
Hidden 25 Jun, 1977 AltLd
Mike Owen 19 Jun, 1977 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
with John Roberts
Rob Davies 28 May, 1977 AltLd Probably HVS 5a with peg for aid in those days
with Mike Swaine
Probably HVS 5a with peg for aid in those days
with Mike Swaine
Bolt Phobia 28 May, 1977 Lead
with Kit Spencer
with Kit Spencer
Hidden 29 May, 1976 AltLd
Bolt Phobia 28 May, 1976 Lead O/S
with Trev Steele
with Trev Steele
Steve Lewis 16 Apr, 1976 Lead O/S
with Steve Bonus
with Steve Bonus
Mark Kemball ?Apr, 1976 AltLd Used peg on roof.
with Mark Pearce
Used peg on roof.
with Mark Pearce
Nigel Bond 1 Aug, 1975 AltLd
with Dave Humphries
with Dave Humphries
petemeads 6 Jun, 1975 Lead
Bolt Phobia 26 Apr, 1975 AltLd
with Dave Williams
with Dave Williams
granitbahn ??, 1975 AltLd
Andy Edgar ??, 1975 Lead O/S
RichardMc 22 Jun, 1974 Lead
with Ken Salter
with Ken Salter
pneame ??, 1974 -
Martin Bennett 14 Aug, 1973 -
with RA
with RA
Martin Bennett 14 Aug, 1973 -
with RA
with RA
Steve Clegg 26 Jul, 1973 AltLd
with Chris H
with Chris H
Hidden ?May, 1973 AltLd
Tom V ?Apr, 1973 -
with Dave Garner
with Dave Garner
Gordon Stainforth 5 Sep, 1972 2nd
with John Stainforth
with John Stainforth
cenotaphcorner ?Aug, 1972 2nd O/S
with Paul Ingham
with Paul Ingham
Rick51 22 Jul, 1972 AltLd
mikej 13 Jun, 1971 Lead
with E C/W
with E C/W
uphillnow ??, 1970 Lead Also 20/7/2000
Also 20/7/2000
lump'o'lead ??, 1970 - Possibly the best route I ever went up (2nd!)
with Pete Whitehead
Possibly the best route I ever went up (2nd!)
with Pete Whitehead
Hidden 1 Jul, 1969 Lead
mikej 19 Jun, 1967 Lead
with Brian Norris
with Brian Norris
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 77
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 74
Votes cast 67
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set