90m, 2 pitches. About 20 metres up the left side of Broad Gully, take the slab leading to an obvious short chimney, follow snow slopes and steps to a Belay below a steep wall. Take the off balance right leaning crack (10 metres) and follow easy broken ground as far as rope will allow then scramble to the summit.

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Ben lad 2 Feb Lead
Marc Langley 25 Jan Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Mar, 2018 2nd O/S
winst0n 8 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S Excellent route. Much better than some of the 1-star routes on the crag. Today, 1st pitch (chimney) was a little banked out, so we soloed it. One necky move but great stuff. Probably III/IV 3ish as no real gear. Second pitch (diagonal, thin crack) was a bit buried and gearless (in the snow). Felt more like tech 5 with 1 low piece of gear, so solo, so more like top IV (or V)... in these conditions. Skirted crack but top of pitch excellent.
Excellent route. Much better than some of the 1-star routes on the crag. Today, 1st pitch (chimney) was a little banked out, so we soloed it. One necky move but great stuff. Probably III/IV 3ish as no real gear. Second pitch (diagonal, thin crack) was a bit buried and gearless (in the snow). Felt more like tech 5 with 1 low piece of gear, so solo, so more like top IV (or V)... in these conditions. Skirted crack but top of pitch excellent.
OllieF 20 Jan, 2016 AltLd G/U Fantastic, found it harder than two grooves! Fell a couple of metres above gear in the Chimney, inverted, much fun. Very off balance climbing through the crack!
with Jack
Fantastic, found it harder than two grooves! Fell a couple of metres above gear in the Chimney, inverted, much fun. Very off balance climbing through the crack!
with Jack
Moritz L 16 Jan, 2016 2nd O/S I led the first part of the second pitch (easy ground) but didn't fancy the lean crack. Great climb, lean in places and plenty of soft snow about. P1 chimney was tough, slipped multiple times but got up it eventually.
I led the first part of the second pitch (easy ground) but didn't fancy the lean crack. Great climb, lean in places and plenty of soft snow about. P1 chimney was tough, slipped multiple times but got up it eventually.
David Kay 16 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S Cool climb with a burly crux up the chimney on pitch one and more delicate/balancey climbing up the crack on pitch two.
Cool climb with a burly crux up the chimney on pitch one and more delicate/balancey climbing up the crack on pitch two.
Hidden 1 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
CharlieMack 1 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Was a little lean, but still fine to climb. Some of the turf lower down was still unfrozen. Fun little section getting up the chimney. Harder than it looks.
with Dan Peers
Was a little lean, but still fine to climb. Some of the turf lower down was still unfrozen. Fun little section getting up the chimney. Harder than it looks.
with Dan Peers
ecromwell 24 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S Pretty damn scary chimney. Very thin and had no screws. Managed to place a nut in the crack on the right before the chimney but was a nightmare getting it in. Second pitch had some spicy moments too. Found out after someone had fallen on it two days before, bit scary!
with sink14
Pretty damn scary chimney. Very thin and had no screws. Managed to place a nut in the crack on the right before the chimney but was a nightmare getting it in. Second pitch had some spicy moments too. Found out after someone had fallen on it two days before, bit scary!
with sink14
Hidden 24 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
gingerking ?Dec, 2014 Solo
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