100m, 3 pitches.
The prominent chimney crack dividing the right hand buttress.
1. Either climb a groove from the toe of the buttress to a ledge, or alternatively an icy corner pitch from the right flank of the buttress leads left to the ledge.
2. From the ledge climb up the chimney crack over two chockstones. A third chockstone, the steepest can be climbed directly, or (more easily) avoided on the right. This pich can be split.
3. Climb the upper part of the buttress by either an
Icy gully groove on the left or by the buttress on the right.
1. Either climb a groove from the toe of the buttress to a ledge, or alternatively an icy corner pitch from the right flank of the buttress leads left to the ledge.
2. From the ledge climb up the chimney crack over two chockstones. A third chockstone, the steepest can be climbed directly, or (more easily) avoided on the right. This pich can be split.
3. Climb the upper part of the buttress by either an
Icy gully groove on the left or by the buttress on the right.
FA. B.Davison 16/Jan/1994.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GrahamUney | 30 Dec, 2020 |
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βeta: Left hand start. Thin ice. | ||
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βeta: Left hand start. Thin ice. |
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Route of Interest
Bleaberry Chimney
Grade: III 4 ***
(Chapel Crags)