Rockfax Description
Fine wall-climbing that requires some care with route finding. Start just right of the crystal crack of Suspension Bridge Arete.
Follow the crack-system just right of the starting crack of Suspension Bridge Arete to the horizontal break at 10m. Climb up right to a steep pocket line and follow this with difficulty, to a point level with a small overhang just down and right of the hole on Suspense. Move up right to stand on a good hold and climb thin cracks up the wall to a break. Climb the pocketed crack above to a traverse line that leads up leftwards to the abseil post. © Rockfax

R Nicholas Aug/1971

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, George's Evening Gorge Ticklist, Becky's ticklist.

just one more 19/Sep Lead rpt
with Callum
foostu4 06/Sep Lead

Pumpy! Spent too long fiddling around with gear and had to have a rest. Great moves, great route!

Charlie Low 15/Aug Lead O/S

What an awesome route! Pockets and pinches and just enough pump to keep you moving fast. A decent amount of gear too. Climbed after work in the evening sun, my favourite way to climb in the gorge.

with Jo Hicks
rosatb 06/Aug 2nd
steve-grigg 06/Aug Lead O/S
with rosatb
Gibbo 25/Jul 2nd
with Matt Ward
Aaron Lines 20/Jul 2nd rpt
badgerjockey 20/Jul Lead RP

Slayed the duck...

with Dan M
badgerjockey 17/Jul Lead dnf

Totally fluffed the crux, went right from the 'pod' and strenuously laybacked up and down which drained me. Ended up getting wigged out by an apparent run out and poor feet so fell and backed off. Couldn't have been on the right route previously. Gutted. First proper lead fall I think!

with Rich
andy dunn 03/Jul Lead rpt
with Big Ben, J
tobydunford 22/Jun 2nd β
with Sean
just one more 20/Jun Lead rpt

Love this route. Steep,brilliant climbing,endless perfect pro

with Max B
Hidden 18/Jun 2nd rpt
Euan Todd 03/Jun Lead O/S

Had intended to do Suspense, but didn't really check and just assumed this line was the right one. Thought it felt quite stiff for HVS!

with Digga
Digga 03/Jun 2nd β

Pointed Euan the wrong way on Suspense and we ended up doing this, thought it felt stiff! Euan led it admirably and placed a tricam for extra points!

Hidden 22/May 2nd O/S
aiyer 22/May Lead β

There is a dead bat next to the insitu thread

with Wendy
Wendy Watthews 22/May 2nd rpt
with Abby
JonoDHawkins 19/May Lead dnf

Poor show - got lost after the bulge and wandered onto Beginnings, eventually backed back off onto Suspense after getting pumped. I'll be climbing more from now on...

with Ash
Hidden 15/May 2nd O/S
Angrypenguin 01/May Lead rpt
with Cat
catty_9 01/May 2nd O/S
Donny M 30/Apr Lead dog

Supposed to do Suspense. Thought it was way too pumpy past the in situ thread for a HVS 5a. My second finally arrived and told me I'd done Baby Duck. 2 Falls on the in situ thread and a placed thread. Held solid. Got passed it on 3rd go.

fuzzysheep01 01/Apr 2nd O/S

Ended up on Suspense for last few metres

eduardo 01/Apr Lead dog

Off-route! Did the crix of this route rather than Suspense, not the warm up I'd wanted. Took a rest where it seemed unfeasibly hard for HVS 5a

aiyer 01/Apr 2nd
with Wendy
Wendy Watthews 01/Apr Lead O/S
with Abby
DHHZ 26/Mar 2nd
with Timo Z
Hidden 26/Mar Lead O/S
Angrypenguin 25/Mar 2nd O/S

Harder than limbo - more pumpy. On the list to lead.

with Dan Akam
Green_t 24/Feb 2nd O/S
Bristol_Quornstar 24/Feb Lead O/S

Warmed up on this route. Really enjoyed this

Hidden 09/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Lev 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Emma Ross, Nicki
just one more 06/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Max B
afrosam 21/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Luke90 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Liz
Elizabeth Allen 16/Aug/16 2nd dog
with Luke
Carl Watkins 08/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Neil
Hidden 14/Jul/16 2nd O/S
WillAndrew 13/Jul/16 Lead β
with Ali
ali.scott 13/Jul/16 2nd O/S

pumpy! well led by Will.

Moritz L 12/Jul/16 2nd O/S

Pumpy, followed dan further right onto the blank face

Dan0Me 12/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Pohil 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with SP
GeorgT 01/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Tom Pillow 21/May/16 2nd O/S
with Will Rivers
will rivers 21/May/16 Lead O/S
Hulda 06/May/16 Lead O/S
with Andi
Andrew1 06/May/16 2nd
with Hulda
Gibbo 05/May/16 2nd
with James Thompson, Ed Wright
Martin Bagshaw 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Tom Hudson
Kemics 17/Mar/16 2nd rpt

Still feels awkward, did find the right (and easy!) sequence in a couple of places

with Ben
Cheese Monkey 17/Mar/16 Lead RP
with Caleb S
Hidden 13/Mar/16 Lead
Ollie B 28/Feb/16 Lead O/S
with B.Brewer
Hugobristol 22/Feb/16 Lead rpt
with munro
Tim Sparrow 31/Oct/15 2nd
with Ned
nniff 31/Oct/15 Lead O/S
London Luke ?/Sep/15 Lead O/S
GridNorth 29/Aug/15 Lead

I have got to stop trying to climb things from memory, especially when that memory is 40 years old. I faced right in the "pod" and had to come down for a rest. Faced left and did the move easily.

with Kirsten Donovon
kirsten 29/Aug/15 2nd
steve_gibbs 31/Jul/15 2nd rpt
with Pauline Picchio
katherinesydney 23/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with neil morbey
wilkinscl 12/May/15 2nd
Kemics 12/May/15 Lead rpt

Was hoping it would feel easier than last time but it didn't. Definitely a tricky E1, I found a lot of the moves hard due to awkwardness.

with Corin
Hugobristol 09/May/15 Lead O/S

First half wasnt too bad lots of good pockets. Had issues finding the route in the second half, may have strayed too far left..

with Dave
Dino Dave 09/May/15 2nd O/S
emdawes 07/May/15 2nd
John Tanner 02/May/15 Lead O/S
Wendy 21/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Legs 16/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Really puppy on the second. Very good lead from Steve. Kept his head in the game.

with Steve
steve_gibbs 16/Apr/15 Lead rpt
felixizzy 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Yep, it's pumpy. Felt like a bit of an effort to stay on route.

with George
georgeevans88 10/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Pumpy but reasonably straightforward to work out what you have to do....until halfway up when it's very difficult not to stray onto Suspense. A good route.

with Felix
Rebs 12/Mar/15 2nd rpt
youwillfindjimbo 12/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/15 Lead dog
Nick Russell 04/Mar/15 Lead rpt

Harder than I remember.

with Emily
Emily 04/Mar/15 2nd O/S

Felt easier and more fun than Suspense. The holds may have been smaller, but at least with really obvious pockets you can tell exactly where they are and what to do with them.

with Nick
badgerjockey 01/Nov/14 Lead β
with Pete
Graham Westbrook 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
sara n 20/Sep/14 TR O/S

Lovely climbing on top rope...plenty of pro but some exposed bits and a wet hold to move off the crux! Did it twice in a row to get a bit of excercise.

with Neville Contractor
mattkemp70 ?/Sep/14 2nd
with Westy
evhall 19/Aug/14 Lead
with colin
grp 24/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Dan0Me 23/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Geoff P
hutchay 16/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Beth Kendrick
Hidden 10/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/14 2nd O/S
alastairbegley 06/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Dave Mahon 05/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Got really pumped at the crux and eventually abseiled off a thread.

matt.jj 05/Jul/14 2nd
andy dunn 23/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with J
andy dunn 16/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with J
George Frisby 08/Jun/14 2nd rpt
steve_gibbs 08/Jun/14 Lead dog
with John Harris, George Frisby
Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead dog
George.Rowland 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Really nice route if you have the ability to notice that above the hellfire spreading through your forearms!

Rebs 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S
chrisclimber ?/Jun/14 Lead
Avon Man ?/Jun/14 Solo rpt
corinrathbone 19/May/14 2nd dog

Hard, pumpy middle section. Took several falls on one move.

with Łukasz Harazin
LucasHarazin 19/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/14 2nd dog
pheotleyr 04/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Very good and pumpy. At one point this gets very close to both Suspense and Limbo, wasn't quite sure where to go for a while. Kind of straight up in the end...

with Ben
Cheese Monkey 04/Apr/14 2nd rpt

Ridiculous pump on even on 2nd

with Peter
will_lake 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Richardlake 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Hard, very pumpy in the middle.

Hidden 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
shoulders 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with dai
Pete Rigby 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Chasqui Patter
James Jackson ??/2014 -
Dean Russell 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
squicky 19/Oct/13 2nd O/S

I think this is what we climbed. Was hoping to climb Suspense.

with John
Phil Murray 04/Sep/13 TR rpt

Hmmm could be up for a lead here soon.... though that would be a whole different story!

with Liz
zcsharp 27/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Chris Stafford, George Frisby
stafford101 26/Aug/13 2nd β

Had attempted this previously on second but given up at the crux. Felt hard with a couple of 5b moves - a whole world away from its two neighbours to the left.

George Frisby 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S
evhall 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S

at last! save some strength for the top bit

with Mike D
Hidden 06/Aug/13 TR O/S
steve_gibbs 06/Aug/13 TR O/S
GAtkins 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with David Trelawney-Ross
Billg 30/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Megan Beaumont
NancyJones 26/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Slippy foot just before the pockety crux

with Shaun
katherinesydney 06/Jun/13 2nd O/S

mmm...thready! really enjoyed this. paul led something I'll call suspended duck, but I climbed baby duck. thanks for the rope, random helpful matt!

with paul wood
Alex Winter 03/May/13 Lead O/S
with George
georgeevans88 03/May/13 2nd O/S
Davebryant ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
sam.hann ?/Apr/13 2nd
richiebongo ??/2013 Lead O/S

Sometime in the naughties.

tskelhon ??/2013 Lead O/S
clmacdonald ??/2013 2nd
alastairbegley 08/Dec/12 Lead O/S
jon_ridley 14/Nov/12 Lead dnf

Couldn't move up the first steep section

Aaron Lines 22/Oct/12 Lead

rain and very wet rock made this feel more like e3!

Tangerine_Kingdom 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Justin
Ed Babs 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S


with AlexD
AlexD 13/Sep/12 2nd
with Ed
Hidden 12/Sep/12 Lead rpt
zcsharp 12/Sep/12 2nd
with James S
James S 12/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with jamie
Hidden 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S
s.c.white 23/Aug/12 -
with mike thomas, Tim Ashlin
Hidden 14/Aug/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 14/Aug/12 Lead β
ericinbristol 12/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Johnny S
Stanners 06/Jul/12 Lead rpt

It is a tad pumpy but decent gear. Really struggled on second a year or so ago. Fantastic route though.

Kemics 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Sustained, no real crux. Climbed with poor tactics, got pumped hanging around at half rests and fiddling with gear. Struggled a little with route finding, nearly ended up on suspense but traversed back and found the line. Pulled through in the end but it was close to a fall.

with Anthony
Billg 26/May/12 Lead O/S
with Susanne Richards
lukehodson 21/May/12 Lead O/S
al99 16/May/12 Lead O/S
with Raff Russell
Nick Russell 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Martin
gazhbo 18/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
R_W_M 18/Mar/12 2nd dog

really apprecited the climbing round the crux pockets, even if I did come off several times before getting into it properly.

with Eleri
Chris Sansum 19/Feb/12 Lead dog

Wasn't committing to the crux, so after faffing around, aided around it. Not climbing well at present!

with James Miller
HarryB 28/Jan/12 2nd dog
with Al
Ali D 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Harry B
peterbeaumont ??/2012 -
peterbeaumont ??/2012 -
j miller ??/2012 2nd
beckybutcher91 ??/2012 2nd dnf
Toby Dunn 05/Dec/11 2nd
with Pete Saunders
cbeard 17/Nov/11 2nd

Combined Limbo with Baby Duck - Fell on traverse as a handhold broke off. Exciting 5m swing into open space

just one more 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Great route,steep with perfect gear

with Svenn G, Phil K
thomasadixon 01/Oct/11 Lead rpt

Thought this was onsight til I checked my log book...tricky crux, solid at E1. Good route.

BeccaSnowden 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Great route - hard for the grade though! Had a massive freak out due to exposure where you move right :( I need to learn to be calmer when leading!!

with Tom
Cornish_James 26/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 19/Sep/11 Lead
with Pete
Dave Mahon ?/Aug/11 2nd

pumpy, lots of threads.

with Brian Mead
Cheese Monkey 04/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Eric
ericinbristol 04/Jul/11 Lead rpt
stvredmond 19/Jun/11 Lead

sustained climbing which got very steep very quickly, loads of good threads

stafford101 09/Jun/11 2nd dnf
with Clay
Clay C 09/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Chris S
morganator 15/May/11 Lead O/S
with Charlie Davies
JamPlastick 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/11 2nd
crossdressingrodney 24/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Got pumped. Nearly fell off at the bulge. Stepped into the Suspense cave for a quick shake out after the crux.

with Tomar
AlexRenshaw 13/Mar/11 Lead
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Stanners 06/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Quarryboy 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Good climb, thought that we were doing Suspense until two guys told us we weren't after we had finished. Just as well on the crux I was thinking dam this is pretty stiff for HVS?!?!

Clay C 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Harry K
Tomar 16/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Sneaky climb after work at 4.30pm. Nice route! I love trad at Avon. Awkward bit on the pockets but bomber proof threads and cams protect the hard section.

with Rafael
bpmclimb 08/Feb/11 Lead rpt

Steep and sustained.

with Helen S
Hidden 08/Feb/11 2nd β
Jonnie Watkins ??/2011 -
LisaA 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Andy
Matt Fry 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
bigdrew 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Sgt. Vest 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Si dH 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Really good. Climbing up across the face from the crack/pockets felt quite committing.

with Andy Morris
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd
Chris Sansum 19/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Good route. Found it considerably easier technically than the Earl of Perth which we had done earlier (which has a very tricky crux).

with Richard Lade
Hidden 17/Jun/10 Lead rpt
andy dunn 14/Jun/10 Lead O/S

not been on the suspension bridge for a while - pocket climbing felt strange- but thoroughly enjoyable. interesting crux, with nowhere that I wanted to stop and place gear until the harder moves were over and done with.

with J
Marti999 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
ericinbristol 13/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Ant Mace
Ant Mace 13/Apr/10 2nd dog
shyster boulder 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

my first e1 propper and a great route.

with alex harper
ClareR 09/Mar/10 Lead β

First E1!

with Kate
ClareR 09/Mar/10 Lead β
with Kate
Hidden 21/Feb/10 Lead O/S
colesy 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S

With Wendy.

markfromstoke 20/Sep/09 2nd
with Ian
ian d f 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Mark
Jessie Rushbrooke 10/Sep/09 Lead β

First E1 at Avon Gorge

with GF
Hidden 20/Aug/09 Lead β
Hidden 20/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead
Dan_Carroll 21/May/09 Lead O/S
with Eric Herring
EmmanuelF 10/May/09 Lead O/S

first part of it at least, maybe finished on the HVS next to it?

with arnaud
Hidden 17/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jan/09 2nd dog
bpmclimb 08/Jan/09 Lead rpt
with Tim
Dr Caterpillar 23/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Howard
Dale ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S

g8 route again pumpy

with johny
thomasadixon 14/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Real nice route, good moves all the way up.

with Will
IceMonkey1982 02/Aug/08 -
_m.cox_ ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Jo Stadden
Hidden 11/May/08 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 07/May/08 2nd β

Found it quite strenious on Second, but good climb.

with Sam Howel
schwenk ?/Apr/08 TR
Will Homoky 29/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Hindson
Al Franks 01/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with James Rae
jameswbrae 01/Mar/08 2nd O/S

Sunny windy Saturday afternoon. Good sustained climbing. Crux with slightly awkward pockets. Fun!

with Al Franks
RagingPuffin 01/Mar/08 Lead dog
with Sam Howell
Hidden 25/Nov/07 Lead rpt
pezzerrr 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S
just one more 14/Oct/07 Lead
with Max B
Hidden 03/Aug/07 2nd O/S
chris sm 12/Apr/07 2nd β
bpmclimb 08/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 08/Mar/07 2nd
Bristoldave 25/Feb/07 Lead rpt
with Joe
Hidden ??/2007 -
Paz 09/Nov/06 Lead rpt

Actually stepped right on to the face this time. This actually avoided what I could remember of Beginnings (all but the top).

with AJM
danp ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S

climbed in the dark with head torches (by choice)

maresia 16/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Greg Pittam ?/Aug/06 2nd
with James Burrows
Bux 25/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Rupert Bassadone
JasonG ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Barry Donovan
just one more 30/Jun/06 Lead
with john smith, Svenn G
Hidden 28/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/06 2nd
gonggashan ?/Jun/06 2nd
with Dan Perrott
Hidden 25/May/06 Lead O/S
Ally Smith 25/May/06 2nd
tom.e 24/May/06 2nd rpt
with Charlie Everett
Fat Tim 07/May/06 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 04/May/06 Lead rpt
with Ben Friedland
sdi 22/Jan/06 Lead O/S
with Tom K
Hidden 15/Jan/06 Lead rpt
gimmer ??/2006 -
beardy mike ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
tom.e ??/2005 2nd β
with Charlie Everett
Hidden 07/Aug/04 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Jun/04 Lead β
furry 02/May/04 Lead O/S
with Neil
Neil ??/2004 Lead O/S
philhilo ??/2004 Lead O/S
just one more 20/Jul/03 Lead
with john smith, Svenn G
John Southworth ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
cornishben ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S
with Ian Butterworth
Hidden ??/2003 -
Paz ?/Dec/02 -

Went direct up a line of pockets at top (now know this isn't on Suspense) - good, pumpy.

with AR
greedo ?/Oct/02 Lead
with Colin knowles
Hidden 01/May/02 Lead O/S
DavidR 20/Jun/01 2nd O/S
with Jemma Wadham
Roget 05/May/01 2nd O/S
with baccy
gimmer ?/May/01 Lead dog

Fell off, got back on a finished route.

with Rich
Hidden ?/Apr/01 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
danp ??/1999 Lead O/S
crimpaway ??/1999 Lead
richsmithinbristol 07/Nov/98 Lead O/S
kevp ?/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with Jasen Ainley
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
duncan 05/Feb/95 Lead O/S
with Dan Donovan
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
leland stamper ?/Aug/93 2nd O/S
with pete
strapless ??/1990 Lead
with Ju
Steve Bell ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1976 -
with Roger Stokes
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 49
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 50
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set