UKC

Climbs 180
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 81m a.s.l
Faces W

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Enjoying the final pitch of Giants Cave Buttress © Dave Bradbrook

Crag features

IMPORTANT NOTE: Summer Restrictions will be in place between 17th May - 12 August 2021 for essential engineering works. The Clifton Suspension Bridge Trust have commisioned works to maintain the condition and stability of the rock face. This is good news for climbers! Joints in the slope (away from the routes) will be grouted with cement to prevent future water ingress, which should also reduce seepage lower down the face (more good news for climbers). 

Climbing is NOT PERMISSABLE 08:00-18:00 Monday to Friday during these 12 weeks of works. Outside these times climbing can continue, but any equipment or cables left on site by the engineers should not be touched.

Solid limestone, sparsely protected, multi-pitch routes to 85m. Try the atmospheric and photogenic "Giant's Cave Buttress ***VS", stiff and exposed for the grade, but totally outstanding. Just don't veer too far to the right at the top, unless you're happy on E3 6b.

Approach notes

Very limited parking for the Amphitheatre and Suspension Bridge Buttress is available at the two gated entrances to the land below the Amphitheatre. In theory parking shouldn't be possible in either gateway as the road is marked with double yellow lines, but there is a long-standing informal agreement with Parking Services that there can be a single vehicle only parked in each space.

Bear in mind this is a busy road so getting into and out of these spaces requires great care and probably a second person to spot you in and out safely. If the spaces are already filled when you arrive, please don't add extra vehicles as this may lead to withdrawal of the informal agreement that is currently in place and parking tickets issued to any car parked there. Instead find alternative parking (the nearest being either Main Wall or in Clifton).

Access to Lower Amphitheatre Wall is via the southernmost of the two gates, where there is a combination lock with a code that can be found on the BMC RAD at https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=909. It is essential to maintain the access agreement that the gate is relocked behind you, as it is for the Sea Walls and Fairy Cave combination locks.

This is also the best approach for routes on the North Face of the Suspension Bridge Buttress.

To approach the concrete apron under the West Face, either approach via the gate and a polished corner (sometimes a knotted rope is there to assist) or walk along the pavement through the concrete apron and cross the single wire fence at a point where a passage can readily be made inside the keep fence on easy-angled slabs.

Access Advice

Bristol City Council are obliged to maintain the fencing in this location for road safety reasons - please help them out by not damaging it when accessing the crag.

Rockfax Digital

Available on Rockfax Digital

Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More Guidebooks:
Avon Gorge (2017)

Out of print:
Cleaned up Limbic Distrophy on 04/02/2017 - there is now a clear path through the brambles - a great route as is the other HVS (as described in the new guide) - please get on them as there is still more gardening needed!
evhall - 06/Feb/17
worth mentioning that parking in all of clifton is now pay and display
cdpej - 21/Aug/15
Was really impressed with the quality of the routes and the rock up there. Everyone who was involved in the clean up has done a great job. The routes deserve more stars than they currently have; a few extra might encourage more traffic up there, which is needed if it isn't going to turn back to jungle. Also, if North Buttress is going to have its own logbook, then then duplicated climbs need removing from the SBB logbook.
Alex Winter - 10/Jul/15
My new favourite place to climb at avon. Psyched to try and get all these ticked off. Taken over moderation today and hoping to climb, confirm and update each route.
Stanners - 19/Mar/15
Seems to be a number of people living under Harveys Wall. Thought at first they were alternatives to mats, but then the duvets started to move. Don't appear to be climbers!
leland stamper - 30/Jul/13
I noticed a lot of workmen clearing the steep slope above this buttress this week - ripping out bushes, trees etc. Not sure why, or what the plan is. I reckon finding anchors at the top of routes could be a major concern at this crag...
Phil Murray - 19/Jul/12
Had a minor problem on 01/04/2012 (not an April fool) with a guy on the bridge in a hi-vis jacket telling me I wasn't supposed to be there (and had to get down Immediately!)
Nick Russell - 02/Apr/12
Scrambled up there today to have a look. If I had the time, I would definitely restore/add routes here. Potential for an ace traverse right around to SSB. Calling out to people like Mark D. Saw two wires with quick draws at the top of one of the routes. Can only assume they were used as an escape lower off. Exciting to see a part of Avon I never new about!
Stanners - 27/Nov/11
See here for inspiration! http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=338592
heallan - 27/Jan/09
Vegitation has been there for well over 13 years! Went yesterday -looks as though there is a lot of cleaning to be done before it becomes worth while...
beardy mike - 26/Jan/09
Approach is full of nettles & brambles. Long trousers would be a good idea. I wore shorts & open sandles! Giants Cave Buttress is awesome. First pitch is excellent, middle pitch is a bit scrappy & the final pitch is extremely good with awesome exposure from the belay all the way to the top.
SC - 27/Aug/07
If anybody is looking for Gollums Cave, it is there!!! Look around at the top in the woodland and you will find it. I looked for ages on the net and there are no descriptions - probally because its small, smells and generally a pretty poor bouldering spot but it does have a few steep fun problems. A small urban boulder spot in the Avon George left of the Clifton Suspension Brige.
Ralph - 21/Mar/06
One of the best in the Gorge. A must for the solid E1 leader. The routes are pretty well protected and very steep. From the left edge of the crag there are a few HVS all superb, some classic E1's and a few harder. Beleive me its some of the best
Laubie - 16/Dec/04
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Climbs at this crag

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