26m. A very good route, and the best-protected extreme on Rob's Slab: bottom end of the grade (arguably only E2). Start on top of the blocks which have fallen away from Rob's Slab. Climb leftwards into the corner and move up to good but hidden holds on the left. Move up leftwards and gain a good hold in the crack on the slab proper. Make a hard move up right to get established on the slab, then follow the crack to the top.

M Raine, R Nadin 04/Apr/2002

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Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
pembrokeshirecaver 3 Aug 2nd O/S
Lukechandler 2 Aug Lead O/S
Paulos87 27 Jul Lead dnf Fell on lead just above the overlap. Did clean on top rope to strip gear. The move isn't so bad when you do it right!
Fell on lead just above the overlap. Did clean on top rope to strip gear. The move isn't so bad when you do it right!
simonsnake77 24 Jul Lead O/S For some strange reason was feeling confident despite my toes sticking out of both La Sportivas, so after Robs Crack & Smell the Glove I ended up leading this. Awkward moves and gear through the roof but reassuring gear over the lip onto the slab, found this route a battle all the way and was disappointed to see people sayings it’s a soft E3.
with Ben Symonds
For some strange reason was feeling confident despite my toes sticking out of both La Sportivas, so after Robs Crack & Smell the Glove I ended up leading this. Awkward moves and gear through the roof but reassuring gear over the lip onto the slab, found this route a battle all the way and was disappointed to see people sayings it’s a soft E3.
with Ben Symonds
afterthesend 13 Jul Lead RP First tried a few years back. Felt a lot easier today.
First tried a few years back. Felt a lot easier today.
luke43 9 Jul Lead RP
markfromstoke 9 Jul 2nd
Steve Neads 9 Jul TR Messed up last move under the overhang and fell off first time. Seemed easy next go!
Messed up last move under the overhang and fell off first time. Seemed easy next go!
George Cox 7 Jul 2nd rpt
Hidden 7 Jul 2nd dog
Honey badger 93 1 Jun Lead O/S
Keelan McNulty 1 Jun 2nd dnf couldn't get past the corner so swapped out with Jon. Led by random stranger.
couldn't get past the corner so swapped out with Jon. Led by random stranger.
Benjaminblanc 1 Jun Lead O/S
with Joe Andrews
with Joe Andrews
Joe Andrews 1 Jun 2nd
DredStripe 27 May Lead β Had a look at some of the holds while abbing off robs crack.
with Claire Falck, berzagalega
Had a look at some of the holds while abbing off robs crack.
with Claire Falck, berzagalega
Hidden 27 May 2nd O/S
Hidden 16 May 2nd O/S
ian d f 16 May Lead rpt
Hidden 12 May 2nd rpt
George Cox 12 May Lead RP
with iog123
with iog123
Paul Eckton 6 May TR O/S
Clarebear1981 6 May TR
reece.robinson 6 May TR O/S
with Hazel Brown, Clarebear1981, Paul Eckton
with Hazel Brown, Clarebear1981, Paul Eckton
Pete Sanger 13 Nov, 2018 TR O/S Shunted
Shunted
George Cox 27 Oct, 2018 Lead dnf Fell moving up from the steps onto Rob's Slab. Cold fingers
with iog123
Fell moving up from the steps onto Rob's Slab. Cold fingers
with iog123
Bob Peters 7 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S E2 5b and brilliant. (No way it’s the same grade as moving target)
E2 5b and brilliant. (No way it’s the same grade as moving target)
Tom_Leverett 4 Aug, 2018 TR O/S
jafferton91 4 Aug, 2018 TR O/S
Hidden 15 Jun, 2018 TR O/S
ricci.andrea86 23 Jun, 2017 Lead
The Screaming Finn 21 Jun, 2017 2nd dog Fell off on the slab, gutted!
with Carl, lukevf
Fell off on the slab, gutted!
with Carl, lukevf
lukevf 21 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
Carl 21 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S First E3 lead (or maybe not, not enough experience to comment on the grade)! Fun climb, getting past the overlap is a bit hard to work out, but not too hard once you have.
First E3 lead (or maybe not, not enough experience to comment on the grade)! Fun climb, getting past the overlap is a bit hard to work out, but not too hard once you have.
Pete Randall 3 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
with cdpuk
with cdpuk
Dugster 3 Jun, 2017 2nd
with Pete randal, cdpuk
with Pete randal, cdpuk
cdpuk 3 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 May, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 6 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 May, 2017 2nd O/S
WillAndrew 23 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 23 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
with WillAndrew, Rob
with WillAndrew, Rob
Wendy Watthews 22 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Moves left a bit tricky, good gear above the lip for the crux
Moves left a bit tricky, good gear above the lip for the crux
lukegorman 22 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
beardy mike 17 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Super route. The start of the overlaps is straight forward, then there is a tough traverse move but easy enough once you spot the moves. Gear to protect is east enough to place. Found the move back into the cracks above on the slab the crux move, and not sure if I went into it too early or not. But once the move was made its a lovely HVS to the top.
Super route. The start of the overlaps is straight forward, then there is a tough traverse move but easy enough once you spot the moves. Gear to protect is east enough to place. Found the move back into the cracks above on the slab the crux move, and not sure if I went into it too early or not. But once the move was made its a lovely HVS to the top.
JoeCoxson 13 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S E2 at a push, rockover isn't as bad as it looks
E2 at a push, rockover isn't as bad as it looks
Hidden 13 Apr, 2017 2nd dog
Hidden 1 Jan, 2017 Lead
Hulda 23 Jul, 2016 2nd
with Andrew1
with Andrew1
Andrew1 23 Jul, 2016 Lead
with Hulda
with Hulda
WilliamRupp 20 Jul, 2016 2nd β
jsmcfarland 20 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Spent too long figuring out how to get onto the slab and got quite pumped as a result. Then made a huge mistake; instead of the 'hard rockover' move (to the right, into the crack) I went direct with gear that fell out soon afterwards and was essentially soloing to the jugs. Quite scary! Low E3 I reckon though.
with Will
Spent too long figuring out how to get onto the slab and got quite pumped as a result. Then made a huge mistake; instead of the 'hard rockover' move (to the right, into the crack) I went direct with gear that fell out soon afterwards and was essentially soloing to the jugs. Quite scary! Low E3 I reckon though.
with Will
Hidden 22 Mar, 2016 Lead
clipskipper 18 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Tricky at the start - lots of gear :-)
Tricky at the start - lots of gear :-)
AlexD 18 Jul, 2015 2nd
miriamclaire 25 May, 2015 2nd dog
with hutchay
with hutchay
MoWalker3 15 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Cormac
with Cormac
felixizzy 13 Apr, 2015 TR O/S Should of lead it.
Should of lead it.
Paul Baller 10 Apr, 2015 Lead RP
with matt stevens
with matt stevens
pablosordo ??, 2015 Lead O/S
just one more 12 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with john smith
with john smith
abtibbs 7 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
with Jamie Roberts
with Jamie Roberts
zcsharp 7 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with abtibbs
with abtibbs
BFG 1 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with James Orde Powlett
with James Orde Powlett
tskelhon ?May, 2014 Lead O/S
clmacdonald ?May, 2014 2nd
RichyBOYY 13 Apr, 2014 TR O/S
Hidden 12 Apr, 2014 TR
Hidden 16 Mar, 2014 2nd
Felix Ottey 16 Mar, 2014 Lead β Lovely route Gd gear :-)
Lovely route Gd gear :-)
duncan 12 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
riddle 14 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
zadurrani 14 Sep, 2013 2nd
with riddle
with riddle
Kevster 31 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
with Lizzie
eddy-on-the-rocks 22 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with max
with max
petegunn 2 Aug, 2013 Lead A bit damp and dirty at the start but fine once on the slab, found it quite hard and its the first time my arms have been pumped at Fairy cave!
A bit damp and dirty at the start but fine once on the slab, found it quite hard and its the first time my arms have been pumped at Fairy cave!
Hidden 2 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
skippington 30 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
grp 5 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Griff1990 5 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
with grp
with grp
Pete Rigby 27 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
with Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 27 Apr, 2013 2nd
onlyfoddington 27 Mar, 2013 TR β Possibly pulled left to get established on the slab, rather than right into the vertical crack. Hardest part was once I was on the main slab.
Possibly pulled left to get established on the slab, rather than right into the vertical crack. Hardest part was once I was on the main slab.
stevorobs3 27 Mar, 2013 TR dog Went slightly too direct around the roof and got pumped / cold fingers.
Went slightly too direct around the roof and got pumped / cold fingers.
stuntsbyjon 28 Jul, 2012 2nd β
Marti999 31 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 May, 2012 TR O/S
bpmclimb 22 Oct, 2010 Lead rpt Felt harder and more committing than last time, perhaps because it was slightly greasy today. On reflection, and all things considered, probably just E3.
with hms
Felt harder and more committing than last time, perhaps because it was slightly greasy today. On reflection, and all things considered, probably just E3.
with hms
Hidden 22 Oct, 2010 2nd O/S
bpmclimb 19 Aug, 2010 Lead rpt A couple of hard moves, just about 5c, and the protection is more reassuring than on some of the routes hereabouts. Therefore no more than E2.
A couple of hard moves, just about 5c, and the protection is more reassuring than on some of the routes hereabouts. Therefore no more than E2.
Huntlyfiddler 19 Aug, 2010 2nd
ian d f 28 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Pete B, markfromstoke
with Pete B, markfromstoke
markfromstoke 28 Jul, 2010 2nd
with ian d f
with ian d f
bpmclimb 23 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Huntlyfiddler 23 Jun, 2008 2nd
Richard Hall ??, 2008 Lead O/S Soft. Not sure about date.
with Max Benzie
Soft. Not sure about date.
with Max Benzie
Hidden 13 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
Ybot Htulk ?Sep, 2007 2nd
with Rem
with Rem
KRB 16 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
with Chris & Martin
Paul Robertson 28 Apr, 2006 Lead O/S The start is nicer than it looks (at least when dry), and there is good gear all the way.
The start is nicer than it looks (at least when dry), and there is good gear all the way.
guy xavier percival 28 Apr, 2006 2nd O/S
with paul
with paul
upontop 1 Aug, 2004 TR
with Richard
with Richard
Hidden 11 Jun, 2004 Lead
Ally Smith ?May, 2004 Lead
with Paz
with Paz
Paz ?May, 2004 Lead
Hidden ??, 2004 Lead
climbergg ??, 2004 2nd
with Tim M
with Tim M
Tim M ??, 2004 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 5 Jul, 2003 Lead O/S
cornishben ?Jan, 2002 2nd O/S
with Max Dutson
with Max Dutson
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 25
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set