26m. A very good route, and the best-protected extreme on Rob's Slab: bottom end of the grade (arguably only E2). Start on top of the blocks which have fallen away from Rob's Slab. Climb leftwards into the corner and move up to good but hidden holds on the left. Move up leftwards and gain a good hold in the crack on the slab proper. Make a hard move up right to get established on the slab, then follow the crack to the top.

M Raine, R Nadin 04/Apr/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.


ClimberDateStyle
ricci.andrea86 23/Jun Lead
The Screaming Finn 21/Jun 2nd dog

Fell off on the slab, gutted!

with CarlWH, Luke von Freeden
lukevf 21/Jun 2nd O/S
Carl 21/Jun Lead O/S

First E3 lead (or maybe not, not enough experience to comment on the grade)! Fun climb, getting past the overlap is a bit hard to work out, but not too hard once you have.

Pete Randall 03/Jun 2nd O/S
with Chris P
Dugster 03/Jun 2nd
with Pete randal, Chris
cdpuk 03/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/May Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May 2nd O/S
WillAndrew 23/Apr Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 23/Apr 2nd O/S
with WillAndrew, Rob
Wendy Watthews 22/Apr Lead O/S

Moves left a bit tricky, good gear above the lip for the crux

with Luke
beardy mike 17/Apr Lead O/S

Super route. The start of the overlaps is straight forward, then there is a tough traverse move but easy enough once you spot the moves. Gear to protect is east enough to place. Found the move back into the cracks above on the slab the crux move, and not sure if I went into it too early or not. But once the move was made its a lovely HVS to the top.

JoeCoxson 13/Apr Lead O/S

E2 at a push, rockover isn't as bad as it looks

Hidden 13/Apr 2nd dog
Hidden 01/Jan Lead
Hulda 23/Jul/16 2nd
with Andi
Andrew1 23/Jul/16 Lead
with Hulda
WilliamRupp 20/Jul/16 2nd β
jsmcfarland 20/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Spent too long figuring out how to get onto the slab and got quite pumped as a result. Then made a huge mistake; instead of the 'hard rockover' move (to the right, into the crack) I went direct with gear that fell out soon afterwards and was essentially soloing to the jugs. Quite scary! Low E3 I reckon though.

with Will
Hidden 22/Mar/16 Lead
clipskipper 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Tricky at the start - lots of gear :-)

AlexD 18/Jul/15 2nd
miriamclaire 25/May/15 2nd dog
with hutchay
hutchay 25/May/15 Lead dog
MoWalker3 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Cormac
felixizzy 13/Apr/15 TR O/S

Should of lead it.

Paul Baller 10/Apr/15 Lead RP
with matt stevens
pablosordo ??/2015 Lead O/S
just one more 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with john smith
abtibbs 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Jamie Roberts
zcsharp 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
BFG 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with James Orde Powlett
tskelhon ?/May/14 Lead O/S
clmacdonald ?/May/14 2nd
RichyBOYY 13/Apr/14 TR O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/14 TR
Felix Ottey 16/Mar/14 Lead β

Lovely route Gd gear :-)

duncan 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S
riddle 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
zadurrani 14/Sep/13 2nd
with riddle
Kevster 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
eddy-on-the-rocks 22/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with max
petegunn 02/Aug/13 Lead

A bit damp and dirty at the start but fine once on the slab, found it quite hard and its the first time my arms have been pumped at Fairy cave!

with Davina
Hidden 02/Aug/13 2nd O/S
skippington 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
grp 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Griff1990 05/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Pete Rigby 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 27/Apr/13 2nd
onlyfoddington 27/Mar/13 TR β

Possibly pulled left to get established on the slab, rather than right into the vertical crack. Hardest part was once I was on the main slab.

with Steve R
stevorobs3 27/Mar/13 TR dog

Went slightly too direct around the roof and got pumped / cold fingers.

stuntsbyjon 28/Jul/12 2nd β
Marti999 31/May/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 27/May/12 TR O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Huntlyfiddler 19/Aug/10 2nd
ian d f 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Pete B, Mark
markfromstoke 28/Jul/10 2nd
with Ian
Hidden 23/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Richard Hall ??/2008 Lead O/S

Soft. Not sure about date.

with Max Benzie
Hidden 13/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Ybot Htulk ?/Sep/07 2nd
with Rem
KRB 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
Paul Robertson 28/Apr/06 Lead O/S

The start is nicer than it looks (at least when dry), and there is good gear all the way.

guy xavier percival 28/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with paul
upontop 01/Aug/04 TR
with Richard
Ally Smith ?/May/04 Lead
Paz ?/May/04 Lead
with AS
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
climbergg ??/2004 2nd
Tim M ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Emma
Mark Stevenson 05/Jul/03 Lead O/S
cornishben ?/Jan/02 2nd O/S
with Max Dutson
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 23
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set