48m, 2 pitches. P1 23m 4a. Follow the obvious crack in the left hand side of the slab to a small tree. Traverse a ledge rightwards and belay to trees.
P2 25m 4a. Climb the left-slanting crack in the upper slab to a tree; then finish straight up. Single (but good) stake belay.

R Thompson, J Hitchens (onsight) 06/Apr/2002

Ticklists: South West Climbs for a Northerner, Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Robertspd2 06/Nov/16 Lead
David Staples 06/Nov/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 05/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
Mayaculpa 20/Oct/16 Lead
Mayaculpa 09/Oct/16 TR
with Mike Rotraxion
Hidden 05/Oct/16 Lead
Bob M 05/Oct/16 2nd
with Nick Foot, Scott Titt
sajrf123 25/Sep/16 Lead G/U

Lead half this route rescuing Matts rope that got stuck on abseil !!

Joshthomas 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
ema 24/Sep/16 Lead
Matt Amos 22/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/16 TR O/S
cpoad 23/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
with John S
OllieF 22/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
with Martin
timstyles 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Me P1, Huw P2

with Huw Howells
sadlerbrett 16/Aug/16 2nd
with Alex Roberts
WaterMonkey 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Neil
Hidden 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Robrossmills 14/Aug/16 AltLd

Lead first

Dan Wilcox 13/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 10/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
Footiemadhannah 10/Aug/16 AltLd

Warm weather and nice climb

Hidden 15/Jul/16 AltLd
ali macphee 15/Jul/16 Lead
with Hilary
Hidden 15/Jul/16 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jul/16 AltLd
Rob Morgan 09/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Initially led P2 but rope became stuck on the ab back down, so led P1 to get it back.

with Dave B
Hidden 09/Jul/16 2nd
Larey 05/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Both pitches as one

with emdawes
Bob M 22/Jun/16 -
with Nick Foot
Helenback 12/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Lem
Hidden 05/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/16 2nd
justaddpowder 04/Jun/16 Lead
with Caroline Milree
Darrell Read 02/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Adam Gayton
Hidden 27/May/16 AltLd rpt
laurence_falconer 24/May/16 2nd
BALD EAGLE 23/May/16 2nd
with Dan Guy
arandall 16/May/16 Lead rpt
riddle 15/May/16 2nd rpt
with Bud
budchawla 15/May/16 Lead O/S

led both

George Killaspy 14/May/16 AltLd

Second pitch. The fun one.

with Hebe Knowles
Hebe Knowles 14/May/16 Lead O/S
kirsten 08/May/16 AltLd
with Tim
hands solo 08/May/16 Lead O/S
DaveX 07/May/16 AltLd O/S

Joe lead the bottom pitch whilst it was still minging with damp, I had a much easier time on the drier second pitch!

Ccmilree 07/May/16 Lead O/S
Aidanrobinson1995 07/May/16 Lead O/S
with lilli
Hidden 04/May/16 AltLd
cgcook ?/May/16 2nd dog
piersg ?/May/16 Lead
Hidden 29/Apr/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 29/Apr/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 24/Apr/16 2nd rpt
Mayaculpa 23/Apr/16 Lead
91dave 23/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Sarah Hopkin
Hidden 17/Apr/16 Lead
davidclare 17/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Talia Drew, Olly Light
Talia Drew 17/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with olly light , Dave Clare
Lukemeehan 13/Apr/16 Solo O/S
Neil Gay 12/Apr/16 AltLd rpt
with Thomasina craster
Woolly 05/Apr/16 2nd
steveprice.exmouth 05/Apr/16 Lead
with Steve Woollard
Norman_P_W 05/Apr/16 Lead
with Bob M
petegunn 03/Apr/16 2nd
with Davina
Robin Woodward 03/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Apr/16 Lead
Jenny Dart 03/Apr/16 2nd
with Robin
Mayaculpa 02/Apr/16 2nd
glilje 02/Apr/16 2nd β

1st time on trad +multi pitch

with Dan
BarrySW19 02/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Nice warm up to get the day going.

ngreen ?/Apr/16 2nd
with Jonreece
Mayaculpa 31/Mar/16 TR
with Mike Rotraxion
Laurence20 21/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Callum Mackay
Mayaculpa 19/Mar/16 Lead
with dbm
Hidden 19/Mar/16 2nd rpt
Mayaculpa 28/Feb/16 TR
with Kate, Mike Rotraxion
Phil Anderson ??/2016 Lead
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Gavdee1 21/Nov/15 Lead O/S
reece.robinson 21/Nov/15 2nd O/S
ben.richards 20/Oct/15 Lead rpt

done as one big pitch

with Elizabeth Stoughton
Mayaculpa 03/Oct/15 AltLd
with Richard T, Kate
richie934 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Alan Ahmed
(A)-Alan 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

First pitch not much protection for a while.

BusyLizzie 19/Sep/15 2nd

Interesting at the start.

with Martin
Hidden 06/Sep/15 Lead
Hidden 04/Sep/15 2nd
leland stamper 04/Sep/15 Lead G/U
thomasmerry 04/Sep/15 2nd O/S

First multi pitch

Hidden 22/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 22/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Mayaculpa 08/Aug/15 AltLd
with Tristan
sadlerbrett 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Chris Atkinson
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
ClimbingLondoner ?/Aug/15 2nd
with Mark Harrat
just one more 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S

A lot of loose stuff, don't let people sit below

with katie b
ali.scott 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Pete C
Angrypenguin 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
hairy51 07/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
dansimkin 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Robin Woodward ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Nice climb.

Jenny Dart ?/Jul/15 2nd
with Robin
Hidden 27/Jun/15 AltLd rpt
Hidden 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
felixizzy 27/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Soph
OllieF 23/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led first half of Lumbar Puncture then bailed onto this on the second slab, bit too sweaty for friction climbing!

with Chris Rees
Hidden 20/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 18/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Lizziemay 14/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Dave
Fatclimber 14/Jun/15 AltLd

Pitch 1

Deako 14/Jun/15 AltLd
BALD EAGLE 14/Jun/15 Lead
Neil Gay 11/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
naomibrazier 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S
felixizzy 03/Jun/15 2nd rpt


with Craig
steve_gibbs 21/May/15 Solo rpt
Legs 21/May/15 Solo
sideshow84 10/May/15 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch

gingerbex 09/May/15 Lead O/S

Fab climb little gear on first 18m

Legs 09/May/15 2nd O/S

both pitches well lead by Becky. Bold first pitch. Not one for a faint hearted HS leader! Lovely climb though, deserves a star.i

PatrickEnglish 09/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/May/15 2nd
Hidden 09/May/15 Lead
91dave 09/May/15 Lead rpt
Roch 09/May/15 Lead O/S
with Nat Hillier, Matt Hayes
matthewhayes120 09/May/15 2nd O/S
Neil Rigiani 04/May/15 AltLd O/S

Pitches lead: 1-Neil, 2-Andy.

with Andy Sparrow
Hidden 04/May/15 Lead O/S
Martin Lilley 04/May/15 Lead O/S

Pitch 1 only. A bold, but fun lower pitch to the tree with some decidedly iffy gear.

with Becky McNally
FernandoHidalgo 01/May/15 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches.

Hidden 30/Apr/15 2nd
Snorfalorpagus 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Excellent route.

with Luke Vincent
Hidden 07/Apr/15 Lead
smartydh9 06/Apr/15 TR O/S
dh7892 05/Apr/15 AltLd

Very spicy for HS on the bottom pitch. Starting to get some polish which made the bold climbing feel very insecure.

Hidden 05/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Matthew Martin Wsm 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S

nice easy climb, just put slings around trees for protection, fun!

with dan page
Bob M 04/Apr/15 Lead
dave_is 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Great route! Move through the bottom section quickly.

Hidden 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Billiam king ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
lazzaw 21/Mar/15 AltLd rpt

Lead second pitch

with Mick, Jason Wilber
rustyfishhook ?/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Feb/15 Lead O/S
David Staples 07/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Larey 30/Jan/15 Lead O/S
with Paul
Paul_southgate68 30/Jan/15 AltLd rpt
with Larey
Hidden 24/Jan/15 AltLd rpt
arandall 24/Jan/15 AltLd rpt
with Sam
Paul Baller ??/2015 -
Woolly 27/Oct/14 2nd
with Donald
Hidden 27/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
crater 27/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with steve
Matt Smith 27/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Thought crack at start was hard for 4a.

Hidden 23/Oct/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 04/Oct/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 04/Oct/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 29/Sep/14 -
BStar 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Fine route, bit run out on P1. Felt harder than 4a too, could just be the boldness though

with Rachael
Adam Hill 27/Sep/14 Lead

First Multipitch with Zach. A bit distracted at the first belay, but he climbed it very easily and cleaned well.

with Zach
Rachael88 27/Sep/14 2nd

Really great route, really enjoyed it!

with Adam
Felix Ottey 21/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead
cbonner 14/Sep/14 AltLd rpt


lazzaw 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Jonathan's first multi-pitch.

with Jonathan Cook
abtibbs 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Did it as one pitch

with Jamie Roberts
zcsharp 07/Sep/14 2nd
91dave 07/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Paul Eckton 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with steve read
Hidden ?/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/14 2nd rpt
petegunn 27/Aug/14 Lead
with Davina
Hidden 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
91dave 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Deserves a star or two that the guidebook unjustly denies it. Now has a belay stake, don't need an extra rope for the anchor.

Hidden 24/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
AndyRogers 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Ian let p1 and I led p2

with ianlaw
steve_gibbs 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
cpoad 17/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
with John S
Hidden 12/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 12/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
felixizzy 07/Aug/14 Solo rpt

Both pitches

Hidden 07/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Aug/14 2nd
alexporter 03/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch

with Naomi Dalton, Clare Finn
Rob Morgan 27/Jul/14 Lead
Moritz L 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Stefan, rylett
mph040272 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Seconded first Lead second

with Alex Heubel, Tamsin Ross Browne
Paul_southgate68 23/Jul/14 2nd

Miriams second trad lead, done in one pitch.Bon effort!

with Miriam
MoWalker3 23/Jul/14 -
with Cormac
Hidden 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/14 Lead
leland stamper 15/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/14 2nd rpt
lem 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Initial crack is fun but scrappy after that

Hidden 13/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
riddle 12/Jul/14 2nd O/S


with Tony
CRiddiford 06/Jul/14 Solo O/S

with Tom and Wendy

with Chris
Hidden 03/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Jul/14 Lead
thomb 03/Jul/14 -
with Paul
Tom Harper 01/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the 2nd pitch. Really nice climb that flows nicely

Steve Bartle 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
nicknicely 29/Jun/14 2nd
with steve
nath_casper 29/Jun/14 AltLd
with Felix
Samuel Cox 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Joe
Felix Ottey 29/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 26/Jun/14 2nd
Kemics 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

In one pitch. However, on the top pitch from the sapling I (mistakenly) took the right leaning thin crack. Was a really nice climb, awesome variation.

with Dom
catty_9 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Angrypenguin 15/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Cat
Neil Watson 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Did as one pitch as recommended by Riddle

with Riddle
riddle 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
samparsons 13/Jun/14 2nd
with John
Wildstyle 12/Jun/14 Solo
SGD 08/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 06/Jun/14 Solo rpt
Jensoir ?/Jun/14 2nd O/S
sjscammell ?/Jun/14 Lead

A great climb to warm up or down on ....

Trippinjester ?/Jun/14 Lead
with Jensoir
lazzaw 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Just the first pitch. Quite a distance before the first bit of gear.

with Jonathan Cook
Hidden 27/May/14 2nd
bpmclimb 19/May/14 2nd rpt
nicknicely 19/May/14 Lead β
with brian
felixizzy 18/May/14 2nd rpt
with Sean
Alessandro Tentori 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsten Donovan
kirsten 17/May/14 2nd
Hidden 15/May/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 12/May/14 AltLd rpt
winter hill1 12/May/14 Lead
with amanda morgan
Hidden 05/May/14 2nd rpt
The Ivanator 04/May/14 AltLd rpt

Did as 2 pitches this time and led the first.

with Rob
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead rpt
shaunleonard 03/May/14 2nd O/S

My first multipitch... awesome, loved it!

with Ian
degibbs ?/May/14 2nd
Griff1990 ?/May/14 Lead O/S
with degibbs
davenev 29/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with David
drgrange 29/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with davenev
martin one 19/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Stew
plilley 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

In one pitch

with Yasmina, Roger
riddle 18/Apr/14 2nd
Easty14 16/Apr/14 AltLd
BALD EAGLE 12/Apr/14 AltLd
with Kevin Van Colina, Rob Horler
Patrick Clissold 08/Apr/14 Solo
with Will Laws
davidclare 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Klara Marsikova
Hidden 30/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Klara 30/Mar/14 2nd
Ian JL 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
madguernseyboy 19/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Wildstyle 19/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
The Ivanator 15/Mar/14 Lead rpt

In one pitch.

with Rich
Tristypants 15/Mar/14 2nd
with Helen Eden
Hidden 09/Mar/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 09/Mar/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 09/Mar/14 AltLd
James Jackson ??/2014 -
morgan thomas ??/2014 -
David Staples ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Dec/13 Lead rpt
David Staples 15/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Nov/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 19/Oct/13 Lead
Hidden 19/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/13 Solo O/S
Dan0Me 09/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Sophie C
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
youbecame 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
JulianB 05/Oct/13 AltLd
Matt Amos 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Dave Thompson 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Audry Morrison
Easty14 14/Sep/13 AltLd
spenser 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
SHONAJONES 14/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with spenser
Hidden 05/Sep/13 Lead
Matt Amos 29/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Adrian Daniels 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with John Parrott
Woolly 21/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
gjh 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Caroline 2010 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Took a novice lead both pitches.

Hidden 16/Aug/13 AltLd
D Berry 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Done in a single pitch. Enjoyable, but if there was a runner in the first half of the first crack pitch it would be pretty soft at Severe.

with Claire Berry
Hidden 06/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Neil Gay 01/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Emily Gay, Al Gay
shim ?/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
jopayne1988 ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch. Nice route.

Stuart William 28/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Neil Gay 22/Jul/13 2nd rpt
BenBird 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Neil Gay 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Al Gay
Eike 06/Jul/13 2nd
with Iain Shone
The Ivanator 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Led as a oner. Good climb, worth a star, no serious looseness.

with Dave
davenev 05/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Ivan
beth_may 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with William Brown
Neil Stansbie 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
beckett45 28/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
fishinwater 18/Jun/13 Lead
with Rob H
goatboy76 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch, seconded 2nd. Nice climb.

with Duncan Backhurst, Jake Leach
shakeyjakey21 09/Jun/13 AltLd
with Rob
Hidden 02/Jun/13 AltLd rpt
Echna ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Climbed as one pitch with massive rope drag.

with Rich
Georgia H ?/Jun/13 Lead
tcoombe1 ?/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
TimPerkin 26/May/13 Lead
with Tom Perkin
rustyfishhook 25/May/13 Lead O/S

nice middle section.

will909 25/May/13 AltLd rpt
Trippinjester 25/May/13 2nd rpt
Cheese Monkey 17/May/13 Lead O/S

Loads of gear after 6m and little loose rock now. Nice!

with Mike
Mayaculpa 17/May/13 2nd
with Ben
Caroline 2010 08/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Felix ottey
Hidden 07/May/13 AltLd
Hidden 07/May/13 AltLd O/S
Adam Perrett 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Sarah Perrett, John Leonard
johnl 06/May/13 2nd O/S

Really enjoyed this one. Doesn't seem to be any significant loose stuff anymore.

with Sarah Perrett, Adam Perrett
Felix Ottey 04/May/13 AltLd rpt
ali macphee 03/May/13 Lead
TomGudgeon ?/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Pete Rigby 27/Apr/13 Solo O/S
kelliroberts3 27/Apr/13 Solo
Hidden 25/Apr/13 Lead rpt
ali macphee 23/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S
carl_123 23/Apr/13 Lead rpt
rustyfishhook 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S

nice outing up another fine slice of slab.

Trippinjester 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
jon_ridley 17/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/13 AltLd
bpmclimb 15/Apr/13 TR rpt
with Shunt
paul1234 08/Apr/13 Lead
with Sarah, Rich
petegunn 03/Apr/13 2nd
with Onk, Davina
Hidden 03/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/13 TR rpt
becoming-stranger 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Beth Mc
beth_may 03/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/13 Lead
petegunn 03/Mar/13 2nd
with Davina
homing-penguin 02/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with David
Hidden 28/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Nix33 ??/2013 -
felixizzy ??/2013 Solo

First pitch

risby 08/Dec/12 2nd O/S

numb feet helped when foot jamming crack at base, fecking cold hands give no feedback on grip strength nice little route though

Hidden 08/Dec/12 Lead O/S
lewiz 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Doughnut 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Morgan P 09/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

2 pitches, lead first pitch and Ben lead the second

with Ben Walters
BBEENN 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Kylie 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Ran both picthes together. First section was really nice but then quite easy after that.

arandall 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Liz
pffft 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Lizzie Randall 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Alex
ben.richards 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
carl_123 23/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Mark Davies PK 12/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd rpt
jamiemcdonald 11/Aug/12 Lead β

Finished it in glorious sunshine compared to the pouring rain last time!

with Michelle Taylor
bpmclimb 03/Aug/12 AltLd rpt

Wet and much harder than usual

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 03/Aug/12 AltLd
Felix Ottey 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Lee
Big Lee 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. Tricky start to the first pitch.

with Alan
bpmclimb 19/Jul/12 Solo rpt

Pitch 1

paul1234 06/Jul/12 Lead

Good new shiny stake at top!

with josh
jamiemcdonald 06/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Abseiled off the small tree at the top of the first crack. Rain stopped play :(

with Michelle Taylor, Phill Sparks
PhillS 06/Jul/12 2nd
with Jamie
Alor_lab 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Harri
Harri777 30/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 24/Jun/12 AltLd
bpmclimb 18/Jun/12 TR rpt
with Shunt
upontop 01/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Chris
will909 27/May/12 AltLd rpt
ClimbskiTim 16/May/12 Lead rpt

Definitely best done on double ropes or via two pitches utilising (almost non-existent) belay at small tree midway.

with Bryony R
BALD EAGLE 12/May/12 2nd
with Will Wykes, Rob Horler
Hidden 16/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/12 2nd
Sarah Welsh 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

P1 Emma/ P2 Me

Hidden 15/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden 14/Apr/12 AltLd
lukerathmell 24/Mar/12 AltLd rpt
with steve
luke13 24/Mar/12 Lead
with Paul
paul1234 24/Mar/12 Lead
with Saffers
Katherine Ross 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S

P1 only as Simon couldn't belay (Henry belayed P1). The guidebook wasn't lying about the protection! The first I could get were 3 questionable nuts about 6-7m up. Some loose rock on the traverse.

with Simon
Hidden 24/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
LukeHowse 26/Feb/12 2nd dog

Weather was unbelievable - so, so fine! Did first abseil down after since I was 10! Fuck I was shit!

with Geoff Burton
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead rpt
cbonner 19/Feb/12 Lead rpt

Lead 2nd pitch.

bradholmes 19/Feb/12 AltLd rpt
luke_judd 16/Oct/11 Lead
with Sarah Smith
Hidden 15/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S
nick hawkins 14/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 02/Oct/11 AltLd
gilmourheid 02/Oct/11 AltLd
with Steve27
Hidden 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
iantoday 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 1

Poco Loco 03/Sep/11 2nd
with andy2, Dean
kiwi boy 03/Sep/11 Lead β

1 pitch better protected than advertised just have plenty of cams

with james 2, dean naylor
Deano100 03/Sep/11 2nd
with Andy H, James P
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead
Warner 15/Aug/11 Lead
Warner 08/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
kiwi boy 27/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Nice two pitch. One peice of gear on 1st pitch in horizontal break 12m in. crack line looks like it should take gear but it does not. Minor loose blocks otherwise worthwhile doing. belay trees along way back at the top.

with rob
Bobling 27/Jul/11 Lead

Pleasant enough, let down by loose rock on traverse.

with Laura, Andy
bradholmes 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Good climb, Chris found some good placements on the first pitch.

cbonner 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch. Good times!

Dave Ing 17/Jul/11 Lead O/S
BB1 17/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
stuntsbyjon 27/Jun/11 -
stpauliblade 25/Jun/11 AltLd

Lead 1st pitch

James Moyle 22/Jun/11 2nd

very pleasant first pitch. Slightly loose in the second. Almost worth a star but not quite.

with piers cunliffe, D. Murphy
Quarryboy 19/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Depite the route following a crack the protection is surprisingly poor.

Stanners 19/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

did second pitch with one wire and sling around tree. Probably was more gear options but there isn't tons.

riddle 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Strung both pitches together

with Yasmina
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Sam..Oliver 04/Jun/11 AltLd

Did the second pitch

Will Gordon ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/11 AltLd
carl_123 12/May/11 Lead O/S

climbers club says the first crack has no protection but there are lots of cams and a few nut placemnts to choose from

Hidden 12/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/11 2nd
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
bpmclimb 06/Apr/11 Solo rpt

Whole thing. p1 23m (12m to tree and 11m traverse), p2 25m.

cas smerdon 21/Mar/11 Lead
with mark joyce
J.Atkins 20/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, pleasant climb

TomOsterwold 20/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
bpmclimb 14/Mar/11 Solo rpt

Just to the tree, to get a rope up.

will909 ??/2011 AltLd
djromberg ??/2011 -
davenev 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Fairly simple even when wet

with mick
7ames 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

belay point long long way back!

Matt Smyth 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S

HS 1. 4a- 20m 2. 4a- 25m Second Easy Avon and Cheddar

with Raff Russell, Olly Pirkis
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/10 2nd
John Foster 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Geoff
stuntsbyjon 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 TR O/S
shakeyjakey21 30/Aug/10 TR
with Duncan
wilf 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

nick p1, me 2

with nick f
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
stpauliblade 08/Aug/10 AltLd

Lead 2nd pitch

SharonC1604 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
dale1968 23/Jul/10 AltLd O/S


with angus, Tom
Hidden 23/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
cas smerdon 21/Jul/10 AltLd
with mark joyce
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
mikehay ??/2010 Lead O/S
JJSegarty ?/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Sue Taylor, Alan Taylor
Matt02003 ?/Aug/09 Lead
luke13 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 02/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/09 AltLd
petegunn 28/May/09 2nd
with Davina
Richard Morgan 25/May/09 Lead

First pitch only

jayne-bravo 03/May/09 Lead β

With a single rope, I should've stopped to belay halfway instead of treating it as a single pitch. I had a problem with rope drag, esp as I put a sling on a small tree over to the left due to lack of other protection above the halfway (belayable) tree. At the top, I untied from the rope and tied it to a large tree, 25m back from the edge, which meant Doug had to climb without me belaying for the first few metres. I hadn't read the advice about setting up the top anchor in advance! He said afterwards that he had previously used the small saplings off to the side (which I hadn't considered). Apart from that, I enjoyed the climbing!

with Doug Lee
SC 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Lead first pitch. Finished up second pitch of Epic Dural.

colin milton 13/Apr/09 2nd
with chris dew
gringoloco 13/Apr/09 AltLd
with colin milton
wheelo 28/Feb/09 Lead
with cas
cas smerdon 28/Feb/09 2nd
with john wheeler
John Lisle 17/Oct/08 -
with CC
Rose Williams 22/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with dan p
Hidden 23/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 23/Jun/08 -
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/08 Lead rpt
Sam Pictor 30/May/08 2nd O/S

Dad led it.. a nice climb, first climb in a while so felt a bit off balance and took a while to get back into it! Nothing special about it really...

with Dad
Hidden 02/Apr/08 Lead rpt
cas smerdon 02/Apr/08 2nd
ashleylist ?/Mar/08 -
with Tamsin Collins
Hidden 16/Feb/08 2nd O/S
MarkRyder 26/Jan/08 2nd O/S
with Lee
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
igneouscarl 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Merlin 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Matt Tranter 17/Sep/07 Solo
ashleylist ?/Sep/07 Lead β
with Tamsin Collins
ashleylist ?/Sep/07 Lead β
with Tamsin Collins
Anthony Allsopp 19/Aug/07 2nd O/S

A little bit windy for me but with a nice thin, v.unprotected shallow crack to start.

with DAve and Jason (HMC)
Hidden 13/Aug/07 AltLd rpt
guy xavier percival 09/Aug/07 Solo O/S
with none
Dan B 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Bev
Hidden 06/Jun/07 Lead O/S
cas smerdon 06/Jun/07 2nd
freelancer_85 02/May/07 Solo O/S

Very straight-forward. The 4a move(s?) felt like they were right at the top of the second pitch. Had to go up as our abb rope got jammed and I couldn't really be bothered prussicking up the rope.

Hidden 28/Apr/07 AltLd
kevinknights 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S

First pitch only

with John, Dan
RichS-Bristol ??/2007 -

Good climb, but a bit loose on the traverse across to the belay at the top of the first pitch.

John_Hat ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Various
Hidden 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 02/Nov/06 2nd O/S
with Clare
dpmUK 12/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Britta
ISavage 01/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Excelent route although start of 1st and second pitchs are scantly protected for first 3-4m Andy led second pitch.

with AndyM
Hidden 29/Jun/06 Solo rpt
Hidden 03/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hewey 03/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Sally led 1st pitch, I led second. Sparse pro

with Sally
bob3141 26/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Jon Martin
Hidden 19/Mar/06 2nd rpt
JamieAyres 19/Mar/06 Lead O/S
BruceW 25/Feb/06 Solo O/S

First pitch only

beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Solo O/S
Jen79 ?/Aug/05 2nd
with Matt Litchfield
upontop ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Digger 04/Oct/03 2nd O/S
with Mike Moncrieffe
Bob M 16/Apr/03 Lead
with Richard Mott
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High VS
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 65
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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