48m, 2 pitches. P1 23m 4a. Follow the obvious crack in the left hand side of the slab to a small tree. Traverse a ledge rightwards and belay to trees.
P2 25m 4a. Climb the left-slanting crack in the upper slab to a tree; then finish straight up. Single (but good) stake belay.

R Thompson, J Hitchens (onsight) 06/Apr/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20, South West Climbs for a Northerner.

JamesRich 26/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with BUMC
Donny M 06/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with Bob the Sendor
Hidden 29/Oct/17 Lead rpt
RyanH 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S
JezzaCat 29/Oct/17 AltLd rpt
with Caron
caron gaisford 29/Oct/17 AltLd

Swooped pitches

with Jezz
runwildjohn 29/Oct/17 AltLd

Led p1, Stu p2.

How easy 29/Oct/17 AltLd

Led pitch 2

JGriffiths 22/Oct/17 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2

caron gaisford 15/Oct/17 AltLd G/U
with Jezz
flatlandrich76 15/Oct/17 Lead

Completed as one pitch

with Torb
JezzaCat 15/Oct/17 AltLd O/S
with Caron
charley 04/Oct/17 Solo O/S
Craig Hiscock 23/Sep/17 AltLd
Hidden 23/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
Trevers 16/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Led the second, easier pitch.

with Will
Hidden 16/Sep/17 Lead O/S
wjcdean 16/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Lead P1.

with Trevers
Hidden 10/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Johnathan swann 04/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 01/Sep/17 Lead
Fred Henry 28/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S
aleks 28/Aug/17 Lead
with fh218
ben1234 26/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Simon Fowler
Trippinjester 26/Aug/17 AltLd rpt
leland stamper 25/Aug/17 Solo rpt

Take rope up to shunt Lumbar Puncture

Hidden 13/Aug/17 Lead
Hidden 06/Aug/17 Lead rpt
crater 06/Aug/17 2nd rpt
with tom
Hidden 01/Aug/17 Lead rpt
Kayan 01/Aug/17 Solo O/S
phil456 20/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Led P2, very enjoyable

with Graham M
RWB1986 16/Jul/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Jul/17 TR
Craig Hiscock 02/Jul/17 Lead β

Placed 3 pieces of gear. Ab stripped.

with Dangerous Dave
Sam116 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S

First multi-pitch lead

littlematt 01/Jul/17 AltLd

Olly led first pitch, I led second

Hannah Gorvin 01/Jul/17 2nd
with Sam116
JoeGross 01/Jul/17 2nd O/S
with Sam116
ngreen ?/Jul/17 Solo O/S
stevebullet10 18/Jun/17 2nd O/S

Single pitch

with Heather Gibbons
Hidden 18/Jun/17 AltLd
Skip 17/Jun/17 Lead rpt
Norman_P_W 16/Jun/17 AltLd
with Dave K
Hidden 14/Jun/17 2nd O/S
PastyBoy84 14/Jun/17 Lead O/S
simibrown 12/Jun/17 AltLd
RachelHC 11/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Chris M
Jan Hofheiz 09/Jun/17 Lead
with Sue
RWB1986 04/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
Fatclimber 04/Jun/17 AltLd rpt


with Rich
StormShadow 03/Jun/17 2nd
with Rob and Chris
justinboynton 23/May/17 -
with Andy
davehope 21/May/17 AltLd O/S
Steve Webster 21/May/17 AltLd
dereke12000 14/May/17 2nd

By this time I was contemplating giving up trad climbing, so only seconding. Finished up Epic-dural (E2) by mistake, removing a few loose blocks near the top.

with Rob
AndySL 08/May/17 AltLd O/S

Not so hard to protect after the break.

with Justin
StormShadow 07/May/17 Lead

Enjoyed this climb, though no protection in the beginning.

with Ariel
will484 30/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with jaynie blake
thel33ter 29/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
c357 26/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
Sam Husband 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Robin Woodward
kiwi boy 23/Apr/17 AltLd rpt

Great route. Got Nick to take the crack then i traversed so he could take the final pitch to the top.

with Nick Shearman
dave_is 23/Apr/17 Lead rpt
Skip 22/Apr/17 2nd O/S
BALD EAGLE 22/Apr/17 Lead
with Skip, Simon Fletcher
TomGudgeon 17/Apr/17 Solo rpt
Hidden 17/Apr/17 Solo rpt
konna 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Lead as one pitch

RWithy 15/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with konna
d.heard 09/Apr/17 2nd
with ThomN
ThomN 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with DavidH
Paul MacEnri 20031034 06/Apr/17 Lead
S pav 88 05/Apr/17 AltLd
with GregG
Gregory Gibas 05/Apr/17 AltLd rpt

Led 2nd pitch, Pav led 1st one.

MoWalker3 02/Apr/17 Solo
andrew.tyrrell 02/Apr/17 Lead
with Jon
powelli 26/Mar/17 AltLd

Connor P1, me P2. Lovely route, favourite of the day, despite a hold blowing on me. And stakes at the top, nice relief from topping out Back to Basics!

Gregory Gibas 26/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch. Kev did 2nd.

with Kev
Connorolfe 26/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

In approach shoes

David Staples 06/Nov/16 AltLd rpt
Robertspd2 06/Nov/16 Lead
Hidden 05/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/16 Lead
Hidden 09/Oct/16 TR
Bob M 05/Oct/16 2nd
with Nick Foot, Scott Titt
Hidden 05/Oct/16 Lead
sajrf123 25/Sep/16 Lead G/U

Lead half this route rescuing Matts rope that got stuck on abseil !!

Joshthomas 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
ema 24/Sep/16 Lead
Matt Amos 22/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/16 TR O/S
cpoad 23/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
with John S
OllieF 22/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
with Martin
timstyles 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Me P1, Huw P2

with Huw Howells
sadlerbrett 16/Aug/16 2nd
with Alex Roberts
WaterMonkey 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Neil
Hidden 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Robrossmills 14/Aug/16 AltLd

Lead first

Dan Wilcox 13/Aug/16 2nd
Footiemadhannah 10/Aug/16 AltLd

Warm weather and nice climb

Hidden 10/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 15/Jul/16 AltLd
ali macphee 15/Jul/16 Lead
with Hilary
Hidden 15/Jul/16 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 09/Jul/16 AltLd
Rob Morgan 09/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Initially led P2 but rope became stuck on the ab back down, so led P1 to get it back.

with Dave B
Larey 05/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Both pitches as one

with emdawes
Bob M 22/Jun/16 -
with Nick Foot
Helenback 12/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Lem
Hidden 05/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 05/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
justaddpowder 04/Jun/16 Lead
Darrell Read 02/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Adam Gayton
dbm 27/May/16 AltLd rpt

Lead P2

with Steve Hind
laurence_falconer 24/May/16 2nd
BALD EAGLE 23/May/16 2nd
with Dan Guy
arandall 16/May/16 Lead rpt
budchawla 15/May/16 Lead O/S

led both

riddle 15/May/16 2nd rpt
with Bud
George Killaspy 14/May/16 AltLd

Second pitch. The fun one.

with Hebe Knowles
Hebe Knowles 14/May/16 Lead O/S
hands solo 08/May/16 Lead O/S
kirsten 08/May/16 AltLd
with Tim
Ccmilree 07/May/16 Lead O/S
Aidanrobinson1995 07/May/16 Lead O/S
with lilli
DaveX 07/May/16 AltLd O/S

Joe lead the bottom pitch whilst it was still minging with damp, I had a much easier time on the drier second pitch!

joeurwin 07/May/16 AltLd
with Dave
Hidden 04/May/16 AltLd
cgcook ?/May/16 2nd dog
piersg ?/May/16 Lead
Hidden 29/Apr/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 29/Apr/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 24/Apr/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/Apr/16 Lead
91dave 23/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Sarah Hopkin
davidclare 17/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Talia Drew, Olly Light
Hidden 17/Apr/16 Lead
Talia Drew 17/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with olly light , Dave Clare
Lukemeehan 13/Apr/16 Solo O/S
Neil Gay 12/Apr/16 AltLd rpt
with Thomasina craster
Steve Woollard 05/Apr/16 2nd
steveprice.exmouth 05/Apr/16 Lead
Norman_P_W 05/Apr/16 Lead
with Bob M
Robin Woodward 03/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden 03/Apr/16 2nd
Jenny Dart 03/Apr/16 2nd
with Robin
glilje 02/Apr/16 2nd β

1st time on trad +multi pitch

with Dan
BarrySW19 02/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Nice warm up to get the day going.

Hidden 02/Apr/16 2nd
ngreen ?/Apr/16 2nd
with Jonreece
Hidden 31/Mar/16 TR
Laurence20 21/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Callum Mackay
Hidden 19/Mar/16 Lead
dbm 19/Mar/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/Feb/16 TR
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Phil Anderson ??/2016 Lead
reece.robinson 21/Nov/15 2nd O/S
Gavdee1 21/Nov/15 Lead O/S
ben.richards 20/Oct/15 Lead rpt

done as one big pitch

with Elizabeth Stoughton
Hidden 03/Oct/15 AltLd
richie934 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Alan Ahmed
Hidden 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
thetorbs 19/Sep/15 Lead

thoughtful first pitch!

BusyLizzie 19/Sep/15 2nd

Interesting at the start.

with Martin
Hidden 06/Sep/15 Lead
Hidden 04/Sep/15 2nd
thomasmerry 04/Sep/15 2nd O/S

First multi pitch

leland stamper 04/Sep/15 Lead G/U
Hidden 22/Aug/15 Lead
dbm 22/Aug/15 2nd O/S
ClimbingLondoner 13/Aug/15 2nd
with Mark Harrat
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
sadlerbrett 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Chris Atkinson
Hidden 08/Aug/15 AltLd
just one more 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S

A lot of loose stuff, don't let people sit below

with katie b
ali.scott 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Pete C
Angrypenguin 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
hairy51 07/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S
dansimkin 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Robin Woodward ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Nice climb.

Jenny Dart ?/Jul/15 2nd
with Robin
Hidden 27/Jun/15 AltLd rpt
felixizzy 27/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Soph
Hidden 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
OllieF 23/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led first half of Lumbar Puncture then bailed onto this on the second slab, bit too sweaty for friction climbing!

with Chris Rees
Hidden 20/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 18/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Lizziemay 14/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Dave
BALD EAGLE 14/Jun/15 Lead
Fatclimber 14/Jun/15 AltLd

Pitch 1

Hidden 14/Jun/15 AltLd
Neil Gay 11/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
naomibrazier 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S
felixizzy 03/Jun/15 2nd rpt


with Craig
steve_gibbs 21/May/15 Solo rpt
Legs 21/May/15 Solo
sideshow84 10/May/15 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch

PatrickEnglish 09/May/15 2nd O/S
91dave 09/May/15 Lead rpt
matthewhayes120 09/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/May/15 2nd
Roch 09/May/15 Lead O/S
with Nat Hillier, Matt Hayes
gingerbex 09/May/15 Lead O/S

Fab climb little gear on first 18m

Hidden 09/May/15 Lead
Legs 09/May/15 2nd O/S

both pitches well lead by Becky. Bold first pitch. Not one for a faint hearted HS leader! Lovely climb though, deserves a star.i

Martin Lilley 04/May/15 Lead O/S

Pitch 1 only. A bold, but fun lower pitch to the tree with some decidedly iffy gear.

with Becky McNally
Hidden 04/May/15 Lead O/S
Neil Rigiani 04/May/15 AltLd O/S

Pitches lead: 1-Neil, 2-Andy.

with Andy Sparrow
FernandoHidalgo 01/May/15 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches.

amberr 30/Apr/15 2nd

bit of an odd climb, non special about it.

Snorfalorpagus 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Excellent route.

with Luke Vincent
Hidden 07/Apr/15 Lead
smartydh9 06/Apr/15 TR O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
dh7892 05/Apr/15 AltLd

Very spicy for HS on the bottom pitch. Starting to get some polish which made the bold climbing feel very insecure.

Matthew Martin Wsm 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S

nice easy climb, just put slings around trees for protection, fun!

with dan page
Bob M 04/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
dave_is 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Great route! Move through the bottom section quickly.

Billiam king ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
lazzaw 21/Mar/15 AltLd rpt

Lead second pitch

with Mick, Jason Wilber
rustyfishhook ?/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Feb/15 Lead O/S
David Staples 07/Feb/15 Lead rpt
Larey 30/Jan/15 Lead O/S
with Paul
Paul_southgate68 30/Jan/15 AltLd rpt
with Larey
Hidden 24/Jan/15 AltLd rpt
arandall 24/Jan/15 AltLd rpt
with Sam
Paul Baller ??/2015 -
crater 27/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with steve
Matt Smith 27/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Thought crack at start was hard for 4a.

Steve Woollard 27/Oct/14 2nd
with Donald
Hidden 27/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Oct/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 04/Oct/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 04/Oct/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 29/Sep/14 -
BStar 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Fine route, bit run out on P1. Felt harder than 4a too, could just be the boldness though

with Rachael
Adam Hill 27/Sep/14 Lead

First Multipitch with Zach. A bit distracted at the first belay, but he climbed it very easily and cleaned well.

with Zach
Rachael88 27/Sep/14 2nd

Really great route, really enjoyed it!

with Adam
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead
cbonner 14/Sep/14 AltLd rpt


lazzaw 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Jonathan's first multi-pitch.

with Jonathan Cook
91dave 07/Sep/14 Lead rpt
abtibbs 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Did it as one pitch

with Jamie Roberts
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd rpt
zcsharp 07/Sep/14 2nd
Paul Eckton 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with steve read
Hidden ?/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 27/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/14 2nd
91dave 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Deserves a star or two that the guidebook unjustly denies it. Now has a belay stake, don't need an extra rope for the anchor.

Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
AndyRogers 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Ian let p1 and I led p2

with ianlaw
cpoad 17/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
with John S
steve_gibbs 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 12/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
felixizzy 07/Aug/14 Solo rpt

Both pitches

Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 03/Aug/14 2nd
alexporter 03/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch

with Naomi Dalton, Clare Finn
Rob Morgan 27/Jul/14 Lead
mph040272 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Seconded first Lead second

with Alex Heubel, Tamsin Ross Browne
Moritz L 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Stefan, rylett
Paul_southgate68 23/Jul/14 2nd

Miriams second trad lead, done in one pitch.Bon effort!

with Miriam
MoWalker3 23/Jul/14 -
with Cormac
Hidden 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 15/Jul/14 2nd rpt
leland stamper 15/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
lem 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Initial crack is fun but scrappy after that

Hidden 13/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
riddle 12/Jul/14 2nd O/S


with Tony
CRiddiford 06/Jul/14 Solo O/S

with Tom and Wendy

with Chris
Hidden 03/Jul/14 Lead rpt
thomb 03/Jul/14 -
with Paul
Hidden 03/Jul/14 Lead
Tom Harper 01/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the 2nd pitch. Really nice climb that flows nicely

Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
nicknicely 29/Jun/14 2nd
with steve
Steve Bartle 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
nath_casper 29/Jun/14 AltLd
with Felix
Samuel Cox 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Joe
Hidden 26/Jun/14 2nd
Kemics 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

In one pitch. However, on the top pitch from the sapling I (mistakenly) took the right leaning thin crack. Was a really nice climb, awesome variation.

with Dom
catty_9 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Angrypenguin 15/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Cat
riddle 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Neil Watson 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Did as one pitch as recommended by Riddle

with Riddle
samparsons 13/Jun/14 2nd
with John
Wildstyle 12/Jun/14 Solo
SGD 08/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 06/Jun/14 Solo rpt
sjscammell ?/Jun/14 Lead

A great climb to warm up or down on ....

Jensoir ?/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Trippinjester ?/Jun/14 Lead
with Jensoir
lazzaw 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Just the first pitch. Quite a distance before the first bit of gear.

with Jonathan Cook
Hidden 27/May/14 2nd
nicknicely 19/May/14 Lead β
with brian
bpmclimb 19/May/14 2nd rpt
felixizzy 18/May/14 2nd rpt
with Sean
Alessandro Tentori 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsten Donovan
kirsten 17/May/14 2nd
Hidden 15/May/14 AltLd rpt
winter hill1 12/May/14 Lead
with amanda morgan
Hidden 12/May/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 05/May/14 2nd rpt
The Ivanator 04/May/14 AltLd rpt

Did as 2 pitches this time and led the first.

with Rob
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead rpt
shaunleonard 03/May/14 2nd O/S

My first multipitch... awesome, loved it!

with Ian
degibbs ?/May/14 2nd
Griff1990 ?/May/14 Lead O/S
with degibbs
drgrange 29/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with davenev
davenev 29/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with David
martin one 19/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Stew
riddle 18/Apr/14 2nd
plilley 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

In one pitch

with Yasmina, Roger
Easty14 16/Apr/14 AltLd
BALD EAGLE 12/Apr/14 AltLd
with Kevin Van Colina, Rob Horler
Patrick Clissold 08/Apr/14 Solo
with Will Laws
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
davidclare 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Klara Marsikova
Klara 30/Mar/14 2nd
Ian JL 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Wildstyle 19/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
madguernseyboy 19/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
The Ivanator 15/Mar/14 Lead rpt

In one pitch.

with Rich
Tristypants 15/Mar/14 2nd
with Helen Eden
Hidden 09/Mar/14 AltLd
Hidden 09/Mar/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 09/Mar/14 AltLd rpt
James Jackson ??/2014 -
David Staples ??/2014 Lead rpt
morgan thomas ??/2014 -
Hidden 28/Dec/13 Lead rpt
David Staples 15/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Nov/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 19/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Oct/13 Lead
Hidden 11/Oct/13 Solo O/S
Dan0Me 09/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Sophie C
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
youbecame 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 AltLd
froglette 05/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
with Julian Bridle
Matt Amos 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Dave Thompson 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Audry Morrison
SHONAJONES 14/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with spenser
spenser 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Easty14 14/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 05/Sep/13 Lead
Matt Amos 29/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Adrian Daniels 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with John Parrott
Hidden 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Steve Woollard 21/Aug/13 2nd
gjh 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Caroline 2010 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Took a novice lead both pitches.

Hidden 16/Aug/13 AltLd
Dale Berry 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Done in a single pitch. Enjoyable, but if there was a runner in the first half of the first crack pitch it would be pretty soft at Severe.

with Claire Berry
Hidden 06/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Neil Gay 01/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Emily Gay, Al Gay
shim ?/Aug/13 2nd
jopayne1988 ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch. Nice route.

Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Stuart William 28/Jul/13 Solo O/S
BenBird 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Neil Gay 22/Jul/13 2nd rpt
Neil Gay 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Al Gay
Eike 06/Jul/13 2nd
with Iain Shone
The Ivanator 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Led as a oner. Good climb, worth a star, no serious looseness.

with Dave
davenev 05/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Ivan
beth_may 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with William Brown
Neil Stansbie 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
beckett45 28/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
fishinwater 18/Jun/13 Lead
with Rob H
shakeyjakey21 09/Jun/13 AltLd
with Rob
goatboy76 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch, seconded 2nd. Nice climb.

with Duncan Backhurst, Jake Leach
Hidden 02/Jun/13 AltLd rpt
tcoombe1 ?/Jun/13 Lead
Echna ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Climbed as one pitch with massive rope drag.

with Rich
Georgia H ?/Jun/13 Lead
TimPerkin 26/May/13 Lead
with Tom Perkin
Hidden 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
rustyfishhook 25/May/13 Lead O/S

nice middle section.

Trippinjester 25/May/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/May/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 17/May/13 2nd
Cheese Monkey 17/May/13 Lead O/S

Loads of gear after 6m and little loose rock now. Nice!

with Mike
Caroline 2010 08/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Felix ottey
Hidden 07/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/May/13 AltLd
johnl 06/May/13 2nd O/S

Really enjoyed this one. Doesn't seem to be any significant loose stuff anymore.

with Sarah Perrett, Adam Perrett
Adam Perrett 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Sarah Perrett, John Leonard
Hidden 04/May/13 AltLd rpt
ali macphee 03/May/13 Lead
TomGudgeon ?/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Pete Rigby 27/Apr/13 Solo O/S
kelliroberts3 27/Apr/13 Solo
Hidden 25/Apr/13 Lead rpt
carl_123 23/Apr/13 Lead rpt
ali macphee 23/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S
rustyfishhook 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S

nice outing up another fine slice of slab.

Trippinjester 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
jon_ridley 17/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/13 AltLd
bpmclimb 15/Apr/13 TR rpt
with Shunt
paul1234 08/Apr/13 Lead
with Sarah, Rich
Hidden 03/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 03/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/13 TR rpt
beth_may 03/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/13 2nd
becoming-stranger 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Beth Mc
Hidden 03/Mar/13 Lead
homing-penguin 02/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with David
Hidden 28/Feb/13 2nd O/S
felixizzy ??/2013 Solo

First pitch

Nix33 ??/2013 -
risby 08/Dec/12 2nd O/S

numb feet helped when foot jamming crack at base, fecking cold hands give no feedback on grip strength nice little route though

Hidden 08/Dec/12 Lead O/S
lewiz 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Doughnut 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Morgan P 09/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

2 pitches, lead first pitch and Ben lead the second

with Ben Walters
BBEENN 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
arandall 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Liz
Kylie 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Ran both picthes together. First section was really nice but then quite easy after that.

Lizzie Randall 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Alex
pffft 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
carl_123 23/Aug/12 Lead rpt
ben.richards 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK 12/Aug/12 Solo O/S
jamiemcdonald 11/Aug/12 Lead β

Finished it in glorious sunshine compared to the pouring rain last time!

with Michelle Taylor
Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd rpt
bpmclimb 03/Aug/12 AltLd rpt

Wet and much harder than usual

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 03/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Lee
Big Lee 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. Tricky start to the first pitch.

with Alan
bpmclimb 19/Jul/12 Solo rpt

Pitch 1

jamiemcdonald 06/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Abseiled off the small tree at the top of the first crack. Rain stopped play :(

with Michelle Taylor, Phill Sparks
PhillS 06/Jul/12 2nd
with Jamie
paul1234 06/Jul/12 Lead

Good new shiny stake at top!

with josh
cpoad 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Mike S (Neil's friend)
Alor_lab 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Harri
Harri777 30/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 24/Jun/12 AltLd
bpmclimb 18/Jun/12 TR rpt
with Shunt
upontop 01/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Chris
Hidden 27/May/12 AltLd rpt
ClimbskiTim 16/May/12 Lead rpt

Definitely best done on double ropes or via two pitches utilising (almost non-existent) belay at small tree midway.

with Bryony R
BALD EAGLE 12/May/12 2nd
with Will Wykes, Rob Horler
Hidden 16/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden 15/Apr/12 2nd
Sarah Welsh 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

P1 Emma/ P2 Me

Hidden 15/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/12 AltLd
lukerathmell 24/Mar/12 AltLd rpt
with steve
Hidden 24/Mar/12 AltLd
luke13 24/Mar/12 Lead
with Paul
paul1234 24/Mar/12 Lead
with Saffers
Katherine Ross 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S

P1 only as Simon couldn't belay (Henry belayed P1). The guidebook wasn't lying about the protection! The first I could get were 3 questionable nuts about 6-7m up. Some loose rock on the traverse.

with Simon
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
LukeHowse 26/Feb/12 2nd dog

Weather was unbelievable - so, so fine! Did first abseil down after since I was 10! Fuck I was shit!

with Geoff Burton
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead rpt
cbonner 19/Feb/12 Lead rpt

Lead 2nd pitch.

bradholmes 19/Feb/12 AltLd rpt
luke_judd 16/Oct/11 Lead
with Sarah Smith
Hidden 15/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S
nick hawkins 14/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 02/Oct/11 AltLd
gilmourheid 02/Oct/11 AltLd
with Steve27
iantoday 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 1

Hidden 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
kiwi boy 03/Sep/11 Lead β

1 pitch better protected than advertised just have plenty of cams

with james 2, dean naylor
Deano100 03/Sep/11 2nd
with Andy H, James P
Poco Loco 03/Sep/11 2nd
with andy2, Dean
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead
Warner 15/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/11 2nd
Warner 08/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
kiwi boy 27/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Nice two pitch. One peice of gear on 1st pitch in horizontal break 12m in. crack line looks like it should take gear but it does not. Minor loose blocks otherwise worthwhile doing. belay trees along way back at the top.

with rob
Bobling 27/Jul/11 Lead

Pleasant enough, let down by loose rock on traverse.

with Laura, Andy
bradholmes 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Good climb, Chris found some good placements on the first pitch.

cbonner 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch. Good times!

Dave Ing 17/Jul/11 Lead O/S
BridgetteB 17/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
stuntsbyjon 27/Jun/11 -
stpauliblade 25/Jun/11 AltLd

Lead 1st pitch

James Moyle 22/Jun/11 2nd

very pleasant first pitch. Slightly loose in the second. Almost worth a star but not quite.

with piers cunliffe, D. Murphy
Stanners 19/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

did second pitch with one wire and sling around tree. Probably was more gear options but there isn't tons.

Quarryboy 19/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Depite the route following a crack the protection is surprisingly poor.

riddle 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Strung both pitches together

with Yasmina
Sam..Oliver 04/Jun/11 AltLd

Did the second pitch

Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/11 AltLd
Will Gordon ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
carl_123 12/May/11 Lead O/S

climbers club says the first crack has no protection but there are lots of cams and a few nut placemnts to choose from

Hidden 12/May/11 2nd
Hidden 12/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
bpmclimb 06/Apr/11 Solo rpt

Whole thing. p1 23m (12m to tree and 11m traverse), p2 25m.

cas smerdon 21/Mar/11 Lead
with mark joyce
TomOsterwold 20/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
J.Atkins 20/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, pleasant climb

bpmclimb 14/Mar/11 Solo rpt

Just to the tree, to get a rope up.

djromberg ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
davenev 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Fairly simple even when wet

with mick
7ames 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

belay point long long way back!

Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Matt Smyth 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S

HS 1. 4a- 20m 2. 4a- 25m Second Easy Avon and Cheddar

with Raff Russell, Olly Pirkis
Hidden 22/Sep/10 2nd
John Foster 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Geoff
stuntsbyjon 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 TR O/S
shakeyjakey21 30/Aug/10 TR
with Duncan
wilf 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

nick p1, me 2

with nick f
stpauliblade 08/Aug/10 AltLd

Lead 2nd pitch

Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
SharonC1604 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
dale1968 23/Jul/10 AltLd O/S


with angus, Tom
Hidden 23/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
cas smerdon 21/Jul/10 AltLd
with mark joyce
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
mikehay ??/2010 Lead O/S
JJSegarty ?/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Sue Taylor, Alan Taylor
nvalentine760 ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Matt02003 ?/Aug/09 Lead
luke13 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 02/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Mark Storey 02/Jun/09 AltLd
with Kate
Hidden 28/May/09 Lead
Hidden 28/May/09 2nd
Richard Morgan 25/May/09 Lead

First pitch only

jayne-bravo 03/May/09 Lead β

With a single rope, I should've stopped to belay halfway instead of treating it as a single pitch. I had a problem with rope drag, esp as I put a sling on a small tree over to the left due to lack of other protection above the halfway (belayable) tree. At the top, I untied from the rope and tied it to a large tree, 25m back from the edge, which meant Doug had to climb without me belaying for the first few metres. I hadn't read the advice about setting up the top anchor in advance! He said afterwards that he had previously used the small saplings off to the side (which I hadn't considered). Apart from that, I enjoyed the climbing!

with Doug Lee
SC 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Lead first pitch. Finished up second pitch of Epic Dural.

gringoloco 13/Apr/09 AltLd
with colin milton
colin milton 13/Apr/09 2nd
with chris dew
wheelo 28/Feb/09 Lead
with cas
cas smerdon 28/Feb/09 2nd
with john wheeler
John Lisle 17/Oct/08 -
with CC
Rose Williams 22/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with dan p
Hidden 23/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 23/Jun/08 -
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/08 Lead rpt
Sam Pictor 30/May/08 2nd O/S

Dad led it.. a nice climb, first climb in a while so felt a bit off balance and took a while to get back into it! Nothing special about it really...

with Dad
Hidden 02/Apr/08 Lead rpt
cas smerdon 02/Apr/08 2nd
ashleylist ?/Mar/08 -
with Tamsin Collins
Hidden 16/Feb/08 2nd O/S
MarkRyder 26/Jan/08 2nd O/S
with Lee
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
igneouscarl 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Merlin 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Matt Tranter 17/Sep/07 Solo
ashleylist ?/Sep/07 Lead β
with Tamsin Collins
ashleylist ?/Sep/07 Lead β
with Tamsin Collins
Anthony Allsopp 19/Aug/07 2nd O/S

A little bit windy for me but with a nice thin, v.unprotected shallow crack to start.

with DAve and Jason (HMC)
Hidden 13/Aug/07 AltLd rpt
guy xavier percival 09/Aug/07 Solo O/S
with none
Dan B 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Bev
Hidden 06/Jun/07 Lead O/S
cas smerdon 06/Jun/07 2nd
freelancer_85 02/May/07 Solo O/S

Very straight-forward. The 4a move(s?) felt like they were right at the top of the second pitch. Had to go up as our abb rope got jammed and I couldn't really be bothered prussicking up the rope.

Hidden 28/Apr/07 AltLd
kevinknights 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S

First pitch only

with John, Dan
RichS-Bristol ??/2007 -

Good climb, but a bit loose on the traverse across to the belay at the top of the first pitch.

John_Hat ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Various
Hidden 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 02/Nov/06 2nd O/S
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 02/Nov/06 Lead
dpmUK 12/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Britta
ISavage 01/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Excelent route although start of 1st and second pitchs are scantly protected for first 3-4m Andy led second pitch.

with AndyM
Hidden 29/Jun/06 Solo rpt
Hewey 03/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Sally led 1st pitch, I led second. Sparse pro

with Sally
Hidden 03/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
bob3141 26/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Jon Martin
JamieAyres 19/Mar/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/06 2nd rpt
BruceW 25/Feb/06 Solo O/S

First pitch only

gaz.marshall ??/2006 Solo O/S
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
Jen79 ?/Aug/05 2nd
with Matt Litchfield
upontop ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Digger 04/Oct/03 2nd O/S
with Mike Moncrieffe
Bob M 16/Apr/03 Lead
with Richard Mott
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