UKC

36m. Start at some blocky little footholds and climb the slab very directly, crossing a horizontal break and a thin diagonal crack, to a ledge. Take a more or less direct line up the slab above to the top. Good stake at top, backups (if desired) are a long way back.

N.B. There has been a report of a fairly large lose block near the top of this route (12 Oct 2020)

FA. I.Butterworth, R.Nadin, E.Findlay 11/Apr/2002.

Ticklists

Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20

Feedback

User Date Notes
pguilloux 3 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Not much gear if you stick to the line from the diagonal crack underneath the ledge to quite high up on the upper slab. the climb isn't too hard though.
Show beta
βeta: Not much gear if you stick to the line from the diagonal crack underneath the ledge to quite high up on the upper slab. the climb isn't too hard though.
SimonWooden 19 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Very serious route if you stick to line. Maybe there's gear below ledge but I arrived at ledge expecting something good. Ended up traversing down and left to sapling and using a poor sling around a block on the right - neither of these recommended. Led through scoop but potentially moved into crack earlier than intended, but happy to get there.
Show beta
βeta: Very serious route if you stick to line. Maybe there's gear below ledge but I arrived at ledge expecting something good. Ended up traversing down and left to sapling and using a poor sling around a block on the right - neither of these recommended. Led through scoop but potentially moved into crack earlier than intended, but happy to get there.
Steve Neads 27 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I avoided the scoop half way up - which certainly lowered the grade!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I avoided the scoop half way up - which certainly lowered the grade!
Mr Slippery 28 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A pleasant climb with a couple of nice rest points. Gear generally good. Definitely worth the * rating in the guide book.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A pleasant climb with a couple of nice rest points. Gear generally good. Definitely worth the * rating in the guide book.

Logged Ascents

408 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Fairy Cave Quarry

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 27 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 56
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 56
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Brainbiter

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)
Loading Notifications...