36m. Climb the centre of the slab, crossing a horizontal break and a thin diagonal crack, to a ledge. Take a more or less direct line up the slab above to the top. Good stake at top, backups (if desired) are a long way back. NOTE: it is easy to get off line, since the lower slab is climbable pretty much everywhere at about 5c. For Lumbar Puncture, start at some blocky little footholds and climb the slab very directly to the ledge. The line of the route is a little nearer to Halfway to Kansas than one might expect, especially where that route kinks right.

I Butterworth, R Nadin, E Findlay 11/Apr/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.


ClimberDateStyle
Rgledable 17/Sep TR O/S

Lovely route, really satisfying working your way up the slab on tiny edges that don't feel like they have any right to hold you there. Ledge half-way up could provide a nice break if you need/want it.

jonah_cook 17/Sep TR O/S

Great moves, climbing on edges that might as well be smears!

Trevers 16/Sep TR O/S

God forbid ever trying to lead this! Very thin, good moves but seems horribly run out as a lead climb!

with Will
wjcdean 16/Sep TR O/S

Amusing rope management to top rope this involving two belayers as had to tie two ropes together to cover the distance.

with Trevers
leland stamper 25/Aug TR O/S
with S.hunt
budchawla 13/Aug 2nd O/S

Emmanuel led, Ioana and I seconded on a sociable romp. I climbed very carefully with an injured toe (capoeira injury) but a great climb with some lovely delicate, balancy moves.

etrillaud 13/Aug Lead O/S
with Bud
Sam O'Rourke 11/Aug Lead O/S
ngreen 05/Aug Lead O/S
AAhmed 05/Aug Lead O/S

First E2 , Slab - However,delicate footwork required.

with ngreen
Hidden 01/Aug 2nd
Kayan 01/Aug Lead O/S
simonsnake77 24/Jul Lead O/S

Great slab climbing, just enough to go on with good if spaced protection. So chuffed to onsight this! The 8M runout above the mid height ledge is bold but not crazy. Guidebook description is spot on. 3 stars in my opinion

with Ben Symonds
emma1987 08/Jul Lead O/S
haribotheclimber 08/Jul 2nd O/S
ricci.andrea86 18/Jun -
RobScarisbrick 11/Jun Lead rpt
with Alex Haines
Hidden 11/Jun 2nd β
petecallaghan 13/May Lead O/S
crater 13/May 2nd rpt
with steve
Steve Woollard 13/May Lead
with Donald
EllieWoods 13/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/May 2nd
Hidden 09/May Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Apr Lead O/S
Phil 29/Apr Lead O/S
Sam Husband 23/Apr 2nd O/S
with Robin Woodward
Robin Woodward 23/Apr Lead O/S

First climb at fairycave for the year and my first E2. May have strayed 1 handhold too far left briefly just before the mid-height ledge before getting to the crimping rail, but wasn't sure, but past the crux so I decided to claim it clean. Nearly gave up on the first crux, but one I had to commit managed to power through. Found getting off the ledge onto the wall harder than the rest of the scoop (although less distraction as no gear until it's really obvious and the moves are done here).

Wendy Watthews 22/Apr Lead O/S
with Luke
Hidden 02/Apr 2nd
Longsufferingropeholder 10/Mar 2nd O/S
with Ed
beardy mike ??/2017 -
Hidden 20/Oct/16 TR
Hidden 09/Oct/16 TR
dave_is 02/Oct/16 Lead dog

One fall at 15m, clipped Jon's preplaced gear for first 10m.

jackappleby 18/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with paula, Eamon
AndyMorrall 10/Aug/16 2nd
Tom courtiour 22/Jul/16 2nd O/S
DredStripe 16/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Tom
betathief 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Pippa 27/Jun/16 2nd
with Tom
justaddpowder 18/Jun/16 Lead
julesmckim 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S

lower slab is brilliant, then a bold move above the ledge followed by climb anywhere slab at the top, linking gear placements as you wish

nikki_a_swan 15/May/16 2nd
with NaCl
Hidden 15/May/16 Lead O/S
crater 15/May/16 2nd O/S
with mike
Ccmilree 08/May/16 2nd O/S
justaddpowder 08/May/16 Lead
afterthesend 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/16 Lead
Steve Woollard 05/Apr/16 Lead
steveprice.exmouth 05/Apr/16 2nd
Hidden 03/Apr/16 2nd
petegunn 03/Apr/16 Lead
with Davina
mick1jones 03/Apr/16 Lead β

Practised first section on top rope last year. Onsighted second section above ledge

with Linda
Dan0Me 22/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with James S, Mel
James S 22/Mar/16 2nd
with melty, dan
callummackay 21/Mar/16 2nd
with Laurance Haxton
Laurence20 21/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Callum Mackay
Seraphic8x 07/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/15 TR
Tom Downes 12/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd
Fjsinclair 08/Aug/15 TR O/S
Vnockles 26/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Alex Smith
Hidden 25/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Adrian Daniels 05/Jul/15 2nd
Steve Webster 05/Jul/15 Lead
OllieF 23/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Got the first pitch, bailed on the second as it was very sweaty in the sun. Next time maybe! Need more micros too.

with Chris Rees
Felix Ottey 21/Jun/15 2nd rpt
markfromstoke 06/Jun/15 Lead
with Duncan
bpmclimb 04/Jun/15 TR rpt

To the ledge. Climbed to help assess independence of Slip Disc. Still undecided.

with Shunt
smartydh9 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/15 Lead O/S
Legs 28/May/15 Lead rpt

lead this after seconding it a few weeks earlier. First E2 on a slab. Really chuffed.

with Sarah
Hidden 28/May/15 2nd
Bri_79 24/May/15 2nd

my first E climb, ever :)

stujamac 24/May/15 Lead O/S

Really nice climb, bold and a bit unprotected for first section after mid-way break. A few large loose blocks on top and at halfway break.

with Sabrina Motzkus
steve_gibbs 21/May/15 Lead rpt
Legs 21/May/15 2nd O/S

One to lead next time I go! Moves were really good.

with Steve
Tom Seccombe 20/May/15 2nd O/S
with Wayne
onlyfoddington 18/May/15 TR O/S

First top rope solo

HowieB 16/May/15 Lead
with Andy
Paul Baller 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with matt stevens
Fatclimber 08/Apr/15 TR
with Self Belayed
davidclare 07/Apr/15 TR O/S
with Tris Vye
smartydh9 06/Apr/15 Lead RP
Wildstyle 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
ElBarto 04/Apr/15 2nd dog

Been a while since I'd done much outdoor climbing, slab technique had suffered

madguernseyboy 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
David Staples 07/Feb/15 Lead rpt
pablosordo ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Dec/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 13/Dec/14 Lead
Hidden 10/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Echna 21/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Rich
Hidden 21/Sep/14 2nd rpt
zcsharp 07/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Paul Eckton 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with steve read
Steve Woollard 05/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 05/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Huntlyfiddler 02/Sep/14 2nd
bpmclimb 02/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Clare
Hidden ?/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 30/Aug/14 TR O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/14 Lead rpt
petegunn 27/Aug/14 2nd
with Davina
zcsharp 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Think i went to far right after the first break and did some variation joining back up with the main route on the upper slab. Thought it was a bit more direct and harder.

steve_gibbs 17/Aug/14 2nd O/S
RobScarisbrick 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with cdpuk
cdpuk 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Nice long slab climb. 2nd E2.

ian d f 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Adrian, Mark
markfromstoke 30/Jul/14 2nd
with Adrian, Ian
Paul_southgate68 23/Jul/14 Lead β

After seconding it last year!

with Miriam
markfromstoke 10/Jul/14 2nd
with Steve N
Hidden 03/Jul/14 2nd O/S
thomb 03/Jul/14 Lead

racked with guilt - used the tree to the right of the ledge at mid height to protect bold section

with Paul
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
TimCul 29/Jun/14 2nd
will_benfold 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/14 2nd rpt
felixizzy 30/May/14 Lead RP

First E2 lead, Wen't up it the other day as a second instead of doing half way to kansas and looked at it on the absail before. Felt quite comfortable. Very glad Mike has c3's.

with Mike
Hidden 27/May/14 2nd
Hidden 26/May/14 AltLd rpt
nicknicely 19/May/14 2nd
with brian
bpmclimb 19/May/14 Lead rpt
tskelhon ?/May/14 Lead O/S
clmacdonald ?/May/14 2nd
drgrange 29/Apr/14 2nd
with davenev
davenev 29/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with David
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
BallsOfSteel 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Led from the midway ledge up....will be back for the rest..cracking route!

Steve Webster 19/Apr/14 Lead
Adrian Daniels 19/Apr/14 2nd
with John Parrott, Steve Webster
J.Atkins 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Tristypants 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S

First ever E2 lead!!

with Bec Chalkley
Hidden 30/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Oddjob 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Rosie
Ian JL 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
MoWalker3 16/Mar/14 TR β

Shunt rpt

James Jackson ??/2014 -
Hidden 28/Dec/13 Solo rpt
sheelba 23/Nov/13 2nd
Hidden 11/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Pete Randall 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Seb, Pete Neden
Dave Thompson 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Audry Morrison
Felix Ottey 24/Aug/13 Lead β

Great climb hard on the toes watch the runout in the middle!

katemurphy_@hotmail 11/Aug/13 2nd
Echna 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Possibly a variation of it, especially on the top quarter.

with Andy
AndyF 06/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 06/Aug/13 2nd RP
Neil Gay 18/Jul/13 Lead dnf

First half to ledge only. Need to return to complete proper-like

with Al Gay
wilkinscl 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
morpcat 14/Jul/13 2nd
MoWalker3 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Almost went and put runner around tree on Kansas but found nut at feet so went on.

with Cormac
Fjsinclair ?/Jul/13 2nd dog

Hard but do-able

Paul_southgate68 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with liam
Neil Stansbie 30/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Should go back and finish it really

bpmclimb 19/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Richard
jon_ridley 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
tcoombe1 ?/Jun/13 Lead
Marti999 31/May/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 26/May/13 2nd
kate tarrant ?/May/13 2nd β
Maxim2023 ?/May/13 Lead O/S
with Kate Tarrant
Hidden 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 15/Apr/13 TR rpt
with Shunt
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
petegunn 03/Apr/13 Lead
with Onk, Davina
Hidden 03/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/13 TR rpt
Hidden 02/Mar/13 Lead rpt
David Staples ?/Mar/13 2nd O/S

First E2, Glorious led and forgot his slings. Not that he needed protection.

Hidden 08/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Morgan P 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S

So technical and so, so good. Hardest climb I have ever done and absolutely worth it. Holds were tiny crimps with the same for feet for 35m except one horizontal break in the middle. Amazing!

with Ben Walters
kirsten 08/Sep/12 2nd
with Brian
bpmclimb 08/Sep/12 Lead rpt
BBEENN 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S
LukeyG 03/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Mark Davies PK 19/Aug/12 2nd rpt
Huntlyfiddler 19/Aug/12 2nd
bpmclimb 19/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Clare
Quarryboy 12/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Did unconventionally in 2 pitches which made it a little safer that it would normally would but was still fun anyway, second pitch which I led has 1 hard move near the start and is easy thereafter.

Stanners 12/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Did in two pitches. Lead first half, great fun.

Mark Davies PK 12/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 11/Aug/12 TR O/S
Felix Ottey 29/Jul/12 2nd O/S
tommytom 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
bpmclimb 19/Jul/12 TR rpt
with Shunt
kelliroberts3 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/12 2nd
bpmclimb 18/Jun/12 TR rpt
with Shunt
adam 24 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
riddle 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S
clams ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Fixed side runner at halfway ledge (E1 5b?)

with Mai
Dawlish 30/May/12 Lead O/S
with pete
Hidden 30/May/12 2nd
Hidden 27/May/12 2nd rpt
cas smerdon 23/May/12 2nd
with mark joyce
tomshanti 27/Mar/12 2nd β

wow!excellent.tricky before the ledge,interesting scoop and good climbing all the way to the top

sweenyt 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S

good till after the groove, then all over

with Tom M
Mr-Cowdrey 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Zoe Trunks
j miller ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
riddle 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Sweet

with Yasmina
Hidden 04/Jun/11 2nd
Ruth ND 24/May/11 2nd β
with Ev
evhall 24/May/11 Lead O/S

Lovely climb - no 5c moves though + some good gear

with Ruth
Rowan Mitchell 15/May/11 Lead O/S

First E2 (having skipped E1!!??). This looked inviting from the ground and felt easier than I was expecting an E2 to feel.

mattshort 15/May/11 Lead O/S
Christopher Jones 15/May/11 2nd
Dale ?/May/11 Lead O/S

A good route not E2 more like E1 5b no way near as hard as epic-dural next to it at the same grade.

with dave
bpmclimb 06/Apr/11 TR rpt

E2, but 5b, not 5c. 36m

with Shunt
Kate Edhouse 20/Feb/11 2nd O/S

Lovely start.

davenev 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Great route - tricky mid section

with luke
Mr Tickle 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Nice climbing. I thought it felt like an E2- occasional footholds coming away and bit bold where the cruxes are.

with davenev
bpmclimb 19/Aug/10 Lead rpt

We agreed there were no 5c moves, but plenty of 5b ones, and the route is still bold enough to get E2. BTW if you have 60m ropes you can untie, and attach the ends to a sling round a good tree some 20m back (or left-hand rope to the saplings); the second can then climb on two ropes.

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 19/Aug/10 2nd
Didymus 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Nice line. Some small holds crumbled in my hands or under feet. Climbed as one pitch. No stakes at top and trees too far back to be of use, belayed to a boulder - not ideal.

with Nick
tobydunford 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith
paul1234 27/Jun/09 2nd
with ollie
Hidden 02/Jun/09 TR
Mark Storey 02/Jun/09 TR
Mark Salter 10/May/09 Lead O/S
SC 13/Apr/09 2nd β

Very nice but with snappy holds. Have to go back & lead.

MarkRyder 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with James P
jamespilgrim 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S

Great bit of slab climbing

with Mark
John Lisle 17/Oct/08 Lead

Pulled some handholds off on upper slab and finished up Kansas

with CC
Jon_Warner 07/Jul/08 Lead O/S

E1 / perhaps E2 because it's bold at the crux. The climbing is easy 5b. To put it in perspective the first pitch of Grip Thynne at LQP is a much more serious route with a similar (perhaps marginally easier) crux graded at E1. Good climbing, still some loose holds. Also this is a bit of an eliminate / confusing line.

bpmclimb 23/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 23/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Sam Pictor 30/May/08 Lead RP

Really enjoyed it, and it made it even sweeter by returning to 'avenge' a previously failed attempt :)

with Dad
chris sm 17/May/08 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
ashleylist ?/Mar/08 2nd
Sandy Holford 17/Feb/08 2nd β

lovely climb

Anthony Allsopp 17/Feb/08 Lead rpt
with Sandy Holford
kristofferalpsjo ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Toby Kluth
Matt Tranter 22/Sep/07 Lead β
with Mark Ward.
Mark Davies PK 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Mix
Anthony Allsopp 27/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with Sandy Holford
Anthony Allsopp 19/Aug/07 2nd O/S

My first 5c second. Lovely thin slab. NO problems really. Went one to lead my first E1 after that!

with DAve and Jason (HMC)
Paul Robertson 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Hannah Redmond
maybe_si 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with jamie
Hidden 29/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/07 2nd O/S
cas smerdon 11/Jun/07 2nd

First E2. Great fun.

with mprb007
Hidden 11/Jun/07 Lead O/S
freelancer_85 02/May/07 Lead O/S

Nice route, my first E2 onsight, led it in one pitch with a big old single rope on my back for belaying off the trees, which possibly made it a tad harder.

with Megan
JimR ??/2007 Lead
with AJM
John_Hat ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Various
bpmclimb 02/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 02/Nov/06 2nd
upontop ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 20/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/06 2nd rpt
goi.ashmore 08/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Alice Howe
just one more 07/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with tim b
KRB 16/Apr/05 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd O/S
cornishben ??/2004 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Digger 20/May/03 2nd O/S
with James Latham
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 47
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set