36m. Climb the centre of the slab, crossing a horizontal break and a thin diagonal crack, to a ledge. Take a more or less direct line up the slab above to the top. Good stake at top, backups (if desired) are a long way back. NOTE: it is easy to get off line, since the lower slab is climbable pretty much everywhere at about 5c. For Lumbar Puncture, start at some blocky little footholds and climb the slab very directly to the ledge. The line of the route is a little nearer to Halfway to Kansas than one might expect, especially where that route kinks right.

I Butterworth, R Nadin, E Findlay 11/Apr/2002

Ticklists

Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Mr Slippery 28 Jul Show βeta
βeta: A pleasant climb with a couple of nice rest points. Gear generally good. Definitely worth the * rating in the guide book.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A pleasant climb with a couple of nice rest points. Gear generally good. Definitely worth the * rating in the guide book.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
alasdaircavaye 3 Aug 2nd O/S Slab slab slab.
Slab slab slab.
Sabrina Brooke 3 Aug Lead
Steve Woollard 29 Jul Lead
with Rafael
with Rafael
Mr Slippery 27 Jul Lead O/S First E2 - comfortable
First E2 - comfortable
George Lunn 27 Jul Lead dnf Got to the first good right hand crimp on the bold section then got demoralised looking at the blankness. Extended to straight arm then slid 3m down the slab to the ledge. Luckily didn't go over.
with James Fotherby
Got to the first good right hand crimp on the bold section then got demoralised looking at the blankness. Extended to straight arm then slid 3m down the slab to the ledge. Luckily didn't go over.
with James Fotherby
Paulos87 27 Jul Lead O/S 1st pitch only
1st pitch only
Issy 25 Jul 2nd
Paulos87 25 Jul Lead 2nd half only (started HS but another group on P2 so did this instead). Nice route
with Issy
2nd half only (started HS but another group on P2 so did this instead). Nice route
with Issy
Honey badger 93 1 Jun Solo O/S
Bob M 21 May TR
Joe Andrews 15 May Lead
Benjaminblanc 15 May Lead β
with Polly Checkley, Joe Andrews
with Polly Checkley, Joe Andrews
Joe Andrews 15 May 2nd
Joe Andrews 15 May 2nd
abilegge 28 Apr 2nd O/S
with ARiches
with ARiches
ARiches 28 Apr Lead dog First half was great with some thin move but good gear. Fell just before the ledge - annoyingly after the hard moves. Second half starts hard put eases with height.
First half was great with some thin move but good gear. Fell just before the ledge - annoyingly after the hard moves. Second half starts hard put eases with height.
Hidden 28 Apr 2nd O/S
AlexBclimbing 23 Apr Lead O/S
with P.Tully
with P.Tully
P.Tully 23 Apr Lead O/S
P.Tully 23 Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Apr 2nd
Hidden 21 Apr 2nd
MarkH55 14 Apr Lead
kissmate89 14 Apr 2nd
with MarkH55
with MarkH55
Jim blackford 13 Apr Lead O/S some loose footholds, some runouts. felt easy at e2 but defo a step above most e1 slabs. shame its the line of abseil
some loose footholds, some runouts. felt easy at e2 but defo a step above most e1 slabs. shame its the line of abseil
The Ivanator 1 Apr TR O/S Absorbing climbing, very good route.
Absorbing climbing, very good route.
Hidden 1 Apr TR
OliverM 21 Feb Lead O/S
riff156 18 Nov, 2018 2nd O/S
jcking231 18 Nov, 2018 Lead
with riff156
with riff156
AlexD 25 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
riddle 16 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Again. But no less fun for it.
Again. But no less fun for it.
bpmclimb 4 Sep, 2018 Lead rpt It's had some ascents this year (a dozen or so logged on UKC), but doesn't feel like it! Lots of loosely-attached flaky rock.
It's had some ascents this year (a dozen or so logged on UKC), but doesn't feel like it! Lots of loosely-attached flaky rock.
NatCheeseman 2 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
with tobra
with tobra
Hidden 2 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
LukeWS 19 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Really enjoyed this - probably made it a bit easier by doing it in two pitches (belay at tree) resulting in missing out a couple of metres of the slab after the break.
with Imi Smith
Really enjoyed this - probably made it a bit easier by doing it in two pitches (belay at tree) resulting in missing out a couple of metres of the slab after the break.
with Imi Smith
Steve Woollard 15 Aug, 2018 Lead
with Steve Thorpe
with Steve Thorpe
Hidden 24 Jul, 2018 2nd
petegunn 24 Jul, 2018 Lead
Benjaminblanc 9 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
badgerjockey 4 Jul, 2018 Lead G/U Nice moves, shame about the state of the rock in places. Many flaky patches of detached surface rock so be careful. Tiny foothold crumbled away at 9m so slid down in slow motion onto good gear leaving my fingertips and the skin of one elbow smeared across the slab... otherwise a great Climb, fair grade with a surprising amount of decent small gear. I found the runout only on the bottom slab.
with rjohnn
Nice moves, shame about the state of the rock in places. Many flaky patches of detached surface rock so be careful. Tiny foothold crumbled away at 9m so slid down in slow motion onto good gear leaving my fingertips and the skin of one elbow smeared across the slab... otherwise a great Climb, fair grade with a surprising amount of decent small gear. I found the runout only on the bottom slab.
with rjohnn
Hidden 15 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
wilkinscl 9 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
with Katharine
with Katharine
AlexHewitt90 28 May, 2018 2nd O/S
RedEd 25 May, 2018 TR O/S
with solo
with solo
Bob Peters 2 May, 2018 Lead O/S After work, meeting Dad off the plane. Didn’t have any small wires really but was still ok. Completely my style of climbing so felt soft touch.
After work, meeting Dad off the plane. Didn’t have any small wires really but was still ok. Completely my style of climbing so felt soft touch.
Bones [:B 22 Apr, 2018 2nd
Oliver Smaje 22 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
guy127917 22 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
Hugobristol 21 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S steady
with Tom C, raf
steady
with Tom C, raf
nimajneb 31 Oct, 2017 2nd
fharnish13 31 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
Rgledable 17 Sep, 2017 TR O/S Lovely route, really satisfying working your way up the slab on tiny edges that don't feel like they have any right to hold you there. Ledge half-way up could provide a nice break if you need/want it.
Lovely route, really satisfying working your way up the slab on tiny edges that don't feel like they have any right to hold you there. Ledge half-way up could provide a nice break if you need/want it.
jonah_cook 17 Sep, 2017 TR O/S Great moves, climbing on edges that might as well be smears!
Great moves, climbing on edges that might as well be smears!
Trevers 16 Sep, 2017 TR O/S God forbid ever trying to lead this! Very thin, good moves but seems horribly run out as a lead climb!
with wjcdean
God forbid ever trying to lead this! Very thin, good moves but seems horribly run out as a lead climb!
with wjcdean
wjcdean 16 Sep, 2017 TR O/S Amusing rope management to top rope this involving two belayers as had to tie two ropes together to cover the distance.
with Trevers
Amusing rope management to top rope this involving two belayers as had to tie two ropes together to cover the distance.
with Trevers
leland stamper 25 Aug, 2017 TR O/S
with S.hunt
with S.hunt
budchawla 13 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S Emmanuel led, Ioana and I seconded on a sociable romp. I climbed very carefully with an injured toe (capoeira injury) but a great climb with some lovely delicate, balancy moves.
Emmanuel led, Ioana and I seconded on a sociable romp. I climbed very carefully with an injured toe (capoeira injury) but a great climb with some lovely delicate, balancy moves.
etrillaud 13 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Sam O'Rourke 11 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
elewis96 11 Aug, 2017 2nd
ngreen 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with AAhmed
with AAhmed
AAhmed 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S First E2 , Slab - However,delicate footwork required.
with ngreen
First E2 , Slab - However,delicate footwork required.
with ngreen
Hidden 1 Aug, 2017 2nd
Kayan 1 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
simonsnake77 24 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Great slab climbing, just enough to go on with good if spaced protection. So chuffed to onsight this! The 8M runout above the mid height ledge is bold but not crazy. Guidebook description is spot on. 3 stars in my opinion
with Ben Symonds
Great slab climbing, just enough to go on with good if spaced protection. So chuffed to onsight this! The 8M runout above the mid height ledge is bold but not crazy. Guidebook description is spot on. 3 stars in my opinion
with Ben Symonds
emma1987 8 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
haribotheclimber 8 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
ricci.andrea86 18 Jun, 2017 -
RobScarisbrick 11 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt
with Alex Haines
with Alex Haines
Hidden 11 Jun, 2017 2nd β
petecallaghan 13 May, 2017 Lead O/S
crater 13 May, 2017 2nd rpt
with steve
with steve
Steve Woollard 13 May, 2017 Lead
with crater
with crater
EllieWoods 13 May, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 9 May, 2017 2nd
Hidden 9 May, 2017 Lead rpt
thel33ter 29 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Bold and thin.
with Phil, Chloe Nunn
Bold and thin.
with Phil, Chloe Nunn
Phil 29 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Sam Husband 23 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
with Robin Woodward
with Robin Woodward
Robin Woodward 23 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S First climb at fairycave for the year and my first E2. May have strayed 1 handhold too far left briefly just before the mid-height ledge before getting to the crimping rail, but wasn't sure, but past the crux so I decided to claim it clean. Nearly gave up on the first crux, but one I had to commit managed to power through. Found getting off the ledge onto the wall harder than the rest of the scoop (although less distraction as no gear until it's really obvious and the moves are done here).
First climb at fairycave for the year and my first E2. May have strayed 1 handhold too far left briefly just before the mid-height ledge before getting to the crimping rail, but wasn't sure, but past the crux so I decided to claim it clean. Nearly gave up on the first crux, but one I had to commit managed to power through. Found getting off the ledge onto the wall harder than the rest of the scoop (although less distraction as no gear until it's really obvious and the moves are done here).
Wendy Watthews 22 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
lukegorman 22 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 2 Apr, 2017 2nd
Longsufferingropeholder 10 Mar, 2017 2nd O/S
beardy mike ??, 2017 -
Mayaculpa 20 Oct, 2016 TR
Mayaculpa 9 Oct, 2016 TR
with Kate, Mike Rotraxion
with Kate, Mike Rotraxion
dave_is 2 Oct, 2016 Lead dog One fall at 15m, clipped Jon's preplaced gear for first 10m.
One fall at 15m, clipped Jon's preplaced gear for first 10m.
jackappleby 18 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with paula, Eamon
with paula, Eamon
AndyMorrall 10 Aug, 2016 2nd
Tom courtiour 22 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
DredStripe 16 Jul, 2016 Lead rpt
with Tom
with Tom
betathief 10 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Jessicacrump 10 Jul, 2016 2nd
Hidden 27 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Pippa 27 Jun, 2016 2nd
Ccmilree 18 Jun, 2016 2nd
justaddpowder 18 Jun, 2016 Lead
julesmckim 18 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S lower slab is brilliant, then a bold move above the ledge followed by climb anywhere slab at the top, linking gear placements as you wish
with GeoMike
lower slab is brilliant, then a bold move above the ledge followed by climb anywhere slab at the top, linking gear placements as you wish
with GeoMike
nikki_a_swan 15 May, 2016 2nd
with NaCl
with NaCl
Hidden 15 May, 2016 Lead O/S
crater 15 May, 2016 2nd O/S
with mike
with mike
Ccmilree 8 May, 2016 2nd O/S
justaddpowder 8 May, 2016 Lead
afterthesend 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Apr, 2016 Lead
Steve Woollard 5 Apr, 2016 Lead
steveprice.exmouth 5 Apr, 2016 2nd
Hidden 3 Apr, 2016 2nd
petegunn 3 Apr, 2016 Lead
mick1jones 3 Apr, 2016 Lead β Practised first section on top rope last year. Onsighted second section above ledge
with Linda
Practised first section on top rope last year. Onsighted second section above ledge
with Linda
Dan0Me 22 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
with James Smith, Mel
with James Smith, Mel
James Smith 22 Mar, 2016 2nd
with melon, dan
with melon, dan
callummackay 21 Mar, 2016 2nd
with Laurance Haxton
with Laurance Haxton
Laurence20 21 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
with Callum Mackay
with Callum Mackay
Seraphic8x 7 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Aug, 2015 TR
Tom Downes 12 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 12 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Aug, 2015 2nd
Fjsinclair 8 Aug, 2015 TR O/S
Vnockles 26 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
with Alex Smith
with Alex Smith
Hidden 25 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
Mayaculpa 18 Jul, 2015 2nd
with Michael H
with Michael H
Hidden 18 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Adrian Daniels 5 Jul, 2015 2nd
Steve Webster 5 Jul, 2015 Lead
OllieF 23 Jun, 2015 Lead dnf Got the first pitch, bailed on the second as it was very sweaty in the sun. Next time maybe! Need more micros too.
with Chris Rees
Got the first pitch, bailed on the second as it was very sweaty in the sun. Next time maybe! Need more micros too.
with Chris Rees
Felix Ottey 21 Jun, 2015 2nd rpt
markfromstoke 6 Jun, 2015 Lead
with Duncan
with Duncan
bpmclimb 4 Jun, 2015 TR rpt To the ledge. Climbed to help assess independence of Slip Disc. Still undecided.
with Shunt
To the ledge. Climbed to help assess independence of Slip Disc. Still undecided.
with Shunt
smartydh9 3 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Legs 28 May, 2015 Lead rpt lead this after seconding it a few weeks earlier. First E2 on a slab. Really chuffed.
with Titch
lead this after seconding it a few weeks earlier. First E2 on a slab. Really chuffed.
with Titch
Hidden 28 May, 2015 2nd
Bri_79 24 May, 2015 2nd my first E climb, ever :)
my first E climb, ever :)
stujamac 24 May, 2015 Lead O/S Really nice climb, bold and a bit unprotected for first section after mid-way break. A few large loose blocks on top and at halfway break.
with Sabrina Motzkus
Really nice climb, bold and a bit unprotected for first section after mid-way break. A few large loose blocks on top and at halfway break.
with Sabrina Motzkus
steve_gibbs 21 May, 2015 Lead rpt
with Legs
with Legs
Legs 21 May, 2015 2nd O/S One to lead next time I go! Moves were really good.
One to lead next time I go! Moves were really good.
Tom Seccombe 20 May, 2015 2nd O/S
with Wayne
with Wayne
onlyfoddington 18 May, 2015 TR O/S First top rope solo
First top rope solo
HowieB 16 May, 2015 Lead
with Andy
with Andy
Paul Baller 10 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with matt stevens
with matt stevens
Fatclimber 8 Apr, 2015 TR
with Self Belayed
with Self Belayed
davidclare 7 Apr, 2015 TR O/S
with Tris Vye
with Tris Vye
smartydh9 6 Apr, 2015 Lead RP
Wildstyle 4 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
ElBarto 4 Apr, 2015 2nd dog Been a while since I'd done much outdoor climbing, slab technique had suffered
Been a while since I'd done much outdoor climbing, slab technique had suffered
madguernseyboy 4 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
David Staples 7 Feb, 2015 Lead rpt
pablosordo ??, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Dec, 2014 2nd rpt
Hidden 13 Dec, 2014 Lead
Hidden 10 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Oct, 2014 2nd O/S
Echna 21 Sep, 2014 Lead rpt
with mnyk
with mnyk
Hidden 21 Sep, 2014 2nd rpt
zcsharp 7 Sep, 2014 Lead rpt
with abtibbs
with abtibbs
Paul Eckton 6 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with steve read
with steve read
Steve Woollard 5 Sep, 2014 Lead
Hidden 5 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
Huntlyfiddler 2 Sep, 2014 2nd
bpmclimb 2 Sep, 2014 Lead rpt
Hidden ?Sep, 2014 2nd
Hidden ?Sep, 2014 Lead
AndThenIWasFlying 30 Aug, 2014 TR O/S
with Shunt
with Shunt
Hidden 27 Aug, 2014 Lead rpt
petegunn 27 Aug, 2014 2nd
zcsharp 17 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Think i went to far right after the first break and did some variation joining back up with the main route on the upper slab. Thought it was a bit more direct and harder.
Think i went to far right after the first break and did some variation joining back up with the main route on the upper slab. Thought it was a bit more direct and harder.
steve_gibbs 17 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
with zcsharp
with zcsharp
RobScarisbrick 3 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
with cdpuk
with cdpuk
cdpuk 3 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Nice long slab climb. 2nd E2.
Nice long slab climb. 2nd E2.
ian d f 30 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Adrian, markfromstoke
with Adrian, markfromstoke
markfromstoke 30 Jul, 2014 2nd
with Adrian, ian d f
with Adrian, ian d f
Paul_southgate68 23 Jul, 2014 Lead β After seconding it last year!
with Miriam
After seconding it last year!
with Miriam
Steve Neads 10 Jul, 2014 Lead
markfromstoke 10 Jul, 2014 2nd
Hidden 3 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
thomb 3 Jul, 2014 Lead racked with guilt - used the tree to the right of the ledge at mid height to protect bold section
racked with guilt - used the tree to the right of the ledge at mid height to protect bold section
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 2nd
TimCul 29 Jun, 2014 2nd
will_benfold 29 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with TimCul
with TimCul
Hidden 12 Jun, 2014 2nd rpt
felixizzy 30 May, 2014 Lead RP First E2 lead, Wen't up it the other day as a second instead of doing half way to kansas and looked at it on the absail before. Felt quite comfortable. Very glad Mike has c3's.
with Mike
First E2 lead, Wen't up it the other day as a second instead of doing half way to kansas and looked at it on the absail before. Felt quite comfortable. Very glad Mike has c3's.
with Mike
Hidden 27 May, 2014 2nd
Hidden 26 May, 2014 AltLd rpt
nicknicely 19 May, 2014 2nd
bpmclimb 19 May, 2014 Lead rpt
tskelhon ?May, 2014 Lead O/S
clmacdonald ?May, 2014 2nd
drgrange 29 Apr, 2014 2nd
with davenev
with davenev
davenev 29 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Apr, 2014 Lead rpt
BallsOfSteel 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Led from the midway ledge up....will be back for the rest..cracking route!
Led from the midway ledge up....will be back for the rest..cracking route!
Steve Webster 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Adrian Daniels 19 Apr, 2014 2nd
with John Parrott, Steve Webster
with John Parrott, Steve Webster
J.Atkins 10 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Tristypants 30 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S First ever E2 lead!!
with Bec Chalkley
First ever E2 lead!!
with Bec Chalkley
Hidden 30 Mar, 2014 2nd
Hidden 30 Mar, 2014 2nd O/S
Oddjob 30 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
Ian JL 29 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
MoWalker3 16 Mar, 2014 TR β Shunt rpt
Shunt rpt
James Jackson ??, 2014 -
Hidden 28 Dec, 2013 Solo rpt
sheelba 23 Nov, 2013 2nd
Hidden 11 Oct, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 5 Oct, 2013 2nd O/S
Pete Randall 5 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
with thesfg, Pete Neden
with thesfg, Pete Neden
Dave Thompson 18 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
with Audry Morrison
with Audry Morrison
Felix Ottey 24 Aug, 2013 Lead β Great climb hard on the toes watch the runout in the middle!
Great climb hard on the toes watch the runout in the middle!
katemurphy_@hotmail 11 Aug, 2013 2nd
Echna 10 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S Possibly a variation of it, especially on the top quarter.
with AndyF
Possibly a variation of it, especially on the top quarter.
with AndyF
AndyF 6 Aug, 2013 Lead
with mnyk
with mnyk
Hidden 6 Aug, 2013 2nd RP
Neil Gay 18 Jul, 2013 Lead dnf First half to ledge only. Need to return to complete proper-like
with Al Gay
First half to ledge only. Need to return to complete proper-like
with Al Gay
wilkinscl 14 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with morpcat
with morpcat
morpcat 14 Jul, 2013 2nd
MoWalker3 3 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Almost went and put runner around tree on Kansas but found nut at feet so went on.
with Cormac
Almost went and put runner around tree on Kansas but found nut at feet so went on.
with Cormac
Fjsinclair ?Jul, 2013 2nd dog Hard but do-able
Hard but do-able
Paul_southgate68 30 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
with liam
with liam
Neil Stansbie 30 Jun, 2013 Lead dnf Should go back and finish it really
Should go back and finish it really
bpmclimb 19 Jun, 2013 Lead rpt
with Richard
with Richard
jon_ridley 18 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with grp
with grp
tcoombe1 ?Jun, 2013 Lead
Marti999 31 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2013 2nd
kate tarrant ?May, 2013 2nd β
Maxim2023 ?May, 2013 Lead O/S
with Kate Tarrant
with Kate Tarrant
Hidden 19 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 15 Apr, 2013 TR rpt
with Shunt
with Shunt
Hidden 6 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
petegunn 3 Apr, 2013 Lead
with Onk, Davinamo
with Onk, Davinamo
Hidden 3 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 18 Mar, 2013 TR rpt
Hidden 2 Mar, 2013 Lead rpt
David Staples ?Mar, 2013 2nd O/S First E2, Glorious led and forgot his slings. Not that he needed protection.
First E2, Glorious led and forgot his slings. Not that he needed protection.
Hidden 8 Dec, 2012 Lead O/S
Morgan P 9 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S So technical and so, so good. Hardest climb I have ever done and absolutely worth it. Holds were tiny crimps with the same for feet for 35m except one horizontal break in the middle. Amazing!
with Ben Walters
So technical and so, so good. Hardest climb I have ever done and absolutely worth it. Holds were tiny crimps with the same for feet for 35m except one horizontal break in the middle. Amazing!
with Ben Walters
kirsten 8 Sep, 2012 2nd
bpmclimb 8 Sep, 2012 Lead rpt
BBEENN 5 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
LukeyG 3 Sep, 2012 Lead
Hidden 3 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
Mark Davies PK 19 Aug, 2012 2nd rpt
Huntlyfiddler 19 Aug, 2012 2nd
bpmclimb 19 Aug, 2012 Lead rpt
Hidden 12 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Stanners 12 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Did in two pitches. Lead first half, great fun.
Did in two pitches. Lead first half, great fun.
Mark Davies PK 12 Aug, 2012 2nd
Hidden 11 Aug, 2012 TR O/S
Felix Ottey 29 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S
tommytom 21 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S
bpmclimb 19 Jul, 2012 TR rpt
with Shunt
with Shunt
kelliroberts3 15 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Jun, 2012 2nd
bpmclimb 18 Jun, 2012 TR rpt
with Shunt
with Shunt
adam 24 2 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
riddle 2 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S
with adam 24
with adam 24
clams ?Jun, 2012 Lead O/S Fixed side runner at halfway ledge (E1 5b?)
with Mai
Fixed side runner at halfway ledge (E1 5b?)
with Mai
Dawlish 30 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Pete
with Pete
Hidden 30 May, 2012 2nd
Hidden 27 May, 2012 2nd rpt
cas smerdon 23 May, 2012 2nd
with mark joyce
with mark joyce
tomshanti 27 Mar, 2012 2nd β wow!excellent.tricky before the ledge,interesting scoop and good climbing all the way to the top
with Luuuke
wow!excellent.tricky before the ledge,interesting scoop and good climbing all the way to the top
with Luuuke
sweenyt 26 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S good till after the groove, then all over
with Tom M
good till after the groove, then all over
with Tom M
Mr-Cowdrey 10 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with Zoe Trunks
with Zoe Trunks
j miller ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
riddle 4 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Sweet
with miku979
Sweet
with miku979
Hidden 4 Jun, 2011 2nd
Ruth ND 24 May, 2011 2nd β
with Ev
with Ev
evhall 24 May, 2011 Lead O/S Lovely climb - no 5c moves though + some good gear
with Ruth
Lovely climb - no 5c moves though + some good gear
with Ruth
Rowan Mitchell 15 May, 2011 Lead O/S First E2 (having skipped E1!!??). This looked inviting from the ground and felt easier than I was expecting an E2 to feel.
First E2 (having skipped E1!!??). This looked inviting from the ground and felt easier than I was expecting an E2 to feel.
mattshort 15 May, 2011 Lead O/S
with Alan100
with Alan100
Christopher Jones 15 May, 2011 2nd
Dale ?May, 2011 Lead O/S A good route not E2 more like E1 5b no way near as hard as epic-dural next to it at the same grade.
with dave
A good route not E2 more like E1 5b no way near as hard as epic-dural next to it at the same grade.
with dave
bpmclimb 6 Apr, 2011 TR rpt E2, but 5b, not 5c. 36m
with Shunt
E2, but 5b, not 5c. 36m
with Shunt
Kate Edhouse 20 Feb, 2011 2nd O/S Lovely start.
with kyle
Lovely start.
with kyle
davenev 16 Oct, 2010 2nd O/S Great route - tricky mid section
Great route - tricky mid section
Mr Tickle 16 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S Nice climbing. I thought it felt like an E2- occasional footholds coming away and bit bold where the cruxes are.
with davenev
Nice climbing. I thought it felt like an E2- occasional footholds coming away and bit bold where the cruxes are.
with davenev
bpmclimb 19 Aug, 2010 Lead rpt We agreed there were no 5c moves, but plenty of 5b ones, and the route is still bold enough to get E2. BTW if you have 60m ropes you can untie, and attach the ends to a sling round a good tree some 20m back (or left-hand rope to the saplings); the second can then climb on two ropes.
We agreed there were no 5c moves, but plenty of 5b ones, and the route is still bold enough to get E2. BTW if you have 60m ropes you can untie, and attach the ends to a sling round a good tree some 20m back (or left-hand rope to the saplings); the second can then climb on two ropes.
Huntlyfiddler 19 Aug, 2010 2nd
Didymus 13 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Nice line. Some small holds crumbled in my hands or under feet. Climbed as one pitch. No stakes at top and trees too far back to be of use, belayed to a boulder - not ideal.
with Nick
Nice line. Some small holds crumbled in my hands or under feet. Climbed as one pitch. No stakes at top and trees too far back to be of use, belayed to a boulder - not ideal.
with Nick
tobydunford 18 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith
with Ben Smith
paul1234 27 Jun, 2009 2nd
with ollie
with ollie
Hidden 2 Jun, 2009 TR
Mark Storey 2 Jun, 2009 TR
Mark Salter 10 May, 2009 Lead O/S
SC 13 Apr, 2009 2nd β Very nice but with snappy holds. Have to go back & lead.
Very nice but with snappy holds. Have to go back & lead.
MarkRyder 15 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
jamespilgrim 15 Mar, 2009 2nd O/S Great bit of slab climbing
Great bit of slab climbing
John Lisle 17 Oct, 2008 Lead Pulled some handholds off on upper slab and finished up Kansas
with CC
Pulled some handholds off on upper slab and finished up Kansas
with CC
Jon_Warner 7 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S E1 / perhaps E2 because it's bold at the crux. The climbing is easy 5b. To put it in perspective the first pitch of Grip Thynne at LQP is a much more serious route with a similar (perhaps marginally easier) crux graded at E1. Good climbing, still some loose holds. Also this is a bit of an eliminate / confusing line.
E1 / perhaps E2 because it's bold at the crux. The climbing is easy 5b. To put it in perspective the first pitch of Grip Thynne at LQP is a much more serious route with a similar (perhaps marginally easier) crux graded at E1. Good climbing, still some loose holds. Also this is a bit of an eliminate / confusing line.
bpmclimb 23 Jun, 2008 Lead rpt
Huntlyfiddler 23 Jun, 2008 2nd
Hidden 15 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Sam Pictor 30 May, 2008 Lead RP Really enjoyed it, and it made it even sweeter by returning to 'avenge' a previously failed attempt :)
with Dad
Really enjoyed it, and it made it even sweeter by returning to 'avenge' a previously failed attempt :)
with Dad
chris sm 17 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
with Pippa Froggatt
ashleylist ?Mar, 2008 2nd
Sandy Holford 17 Feb, 2008 2nd β lovely climb
lovely climb
Anthony Allsopp 17 Feb, 2008 Lead rpt
with Sandy Holford
with Sandy Holford
kristofferalpsjo ?Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
with Toby Kluth
with Toby Kluth
Matt Tranter 22 Sep, 2007 Lead β
with Mark Ward.
with Mark Ward.
Mark Davies PK 15 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
with Mix
with Mix
Anthony Allsopp 27 Aug, 2007 Lead rpt
with Sandy Holford
with Sandy Holford
Anthony Allsopp 19 Aug, 2007 2nd O/S My first 5c second. Lovely thin slab. NO problems really. Went one to lead my first E1 after that!
with DAve and Jason (HMC)
My first 5c second. Lovely thin slab. NO problems really. Went one to lead my first E1 after that!
with DAve and Jason (HMC)
Paul Robertson 11 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with Hannah Redmond
with Hannah Redmond
maybe_si 4 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with jamie
with jamie
Hidden 29 Jul, 2007 2nd O/S
Hidden 11 Jun, 2007 2nd O/S
cas smerdon 11 Jun, 2007 2nd First E2. Great fun.
with mprb007
First E2. Great fun.
with mprb007
Hidden 11 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
freelancer_85 2 May, 2007 Lead O/S Nice route, my first E2 onsight, led it in one pitch with a big old single rope on my back for belaying off the trees, which possibly made it a tad harder.
Nice route, my first E2 onsight, led it in one pitch with a big old single rope on my back for belaying off the trees, which possibly made it a tad harder.
JimR ??, 2007 Lead
with AJM
with AJM
John_Hat ??, 2007 Lead O/S
with Various
with Various
bpmclimb 2 Nov, 2006 Lead O/S
Huntlyfiddler 2 Nov, 2006 2nd
upontop ?Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
with Chris
with Chris
Hidden 20 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jun, 2006 2nd rpt
goi.ashmore 8 Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
with Alice Howe
with Alice Howe
just one more 7 Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
with tim b
with tim b
KRB 16 Apr, 2005 Solo O/S
Hidden ??, 2005 AltLd O/S
cornishben ??, 2004 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2004 Lead
Hidden 28 May, 2003 -
Digger 20 May, 2003 2nd O/S
with James Latham
with James Latham
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 51
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set