The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
FA. R.Thompson, J.Hitchens 06/Apr/2002.
Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , South West Climbs for a Northerner , Fairy Cave Solo Circuit
User | Date | Notes | ||
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bpmclimb | 20 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Pulling ropes down after abseiling from the stake is cutting a deep, earthy groove in the cliff-top, and making a real mess of the routes on this slab. Please consider an alternative descent. Thanks! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pulling ropes down after abseiling from the stake is cutting a deep, earthy groove in the cliff-top, and making a real mess of the routes on this slab. Please consider an alternative descent. Thanks! |
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Sam Richards | 8 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Topping out by following rightward-trending diagonal crack near very end looks to be less hassle than following straight up to vertical shothole. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Topping out by following rightward-trending diagonal crack near very end looks to be less hassle than following straight up to vertical shothole. |
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Lykul | 19 Jan, 2022 |
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βeta: Top of route really loose, few watermelon sized rocks pulled away, better to top out to the right with better footing and holds. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Top of route really loose, few watermelon sized rocks pulled away, better to top out to the right with better footing and holds. |
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kiwi boy | 17 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: 4a section on the 2nd pitch is right at the top. Rather muddy top out now. Great care needed | ||
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βeta: 4a section on the 2nd pitch is right at the top. Rather muddy top out now. Great care needed |
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Jameslancaster | 6 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Second the first pitch and lead the second pitch | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Second the first pitch and lead the second pitch |
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