36m. Start at the right edge of the Lumbar Puncture slab, and climb discontinuous cracks, more or less directly, to the right end of the halfway ledge. Move up to the trees; then climb directly up the upper slab. NOTE: the line of the route on the lower slab is less than obvious, and some recent ascentionists have strayed off line. This applies to the picture on here, in which the climber has gone too far left. The route goes very slightly left to a shallow hole, and up to a good little square-cut finger hold. From here, the 5c crux bears slightly RIGHT and then up to the RIGHT-hand end of the ledge. Following the crack up and left is part of My Own Trumpet (which is probably only 5b at that point).

R Nadin, P Clarke, M Raine 30/Mar/2002


ClimberDateStyle
davehope 21/May 2nd O/S
Steve Webster 21/May Lead
just one more 29/Apr Lead O/S
with Max B
Hidden 18/Feb Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 09/Oct/16 TR
with Kate, Mike Rotraxion
Stanners 07/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Climbed the logical line matching the description giving top end E2 edging towards E3 5c climbing.

with Fiend, Mark Davis
Hidden 29/Aug/16 TR dog
Mayaculpa 08/Jun/16 TR
George Killaspy 14/May/16 Lead O/S
with Milo
Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Apr/16 TR rpt
crater 17/Apr/16 TR O/S
with steve
Steve Woollard 17/Apr/16 TR
with Donald
Bob M 05/Apr/16 TR

Top roped on one of Norman's ropes after he had led Halfway to Kansas.

ngreen ?/Apr/16 TR β
ngreen ??/2016 Lead dnf
with Jonreece
Skip 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Mayaculpa 22/Aug/15 TR

Did it twice, probably strayed too far left at first

with Mike Rotraxion
Hidden 04/Jun/15 TR rpt
smartydh9 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S
felixizzy 03/Jun/15 Lead rpt

p1

with Craig
Hidden 29/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/15 2nd
Wildstyle 04/Apr/15 2nd
ElBarto 04/Apr/15 2nd dog

Been a while since I'd done much outdoor climbing, slab technique had suffered

madguernseyboy 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
smartydh9 ??/2015 TR O/S
dylan.b ??/2015 Lead O/S
Huntlyfiddler 02/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 02/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Sep/14 TR
Hidden 27/Aug/14 2nd O/S
petegunn 27/Aug/14 Lead
with Davina
will_benfold 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Bottom half was certainly exciting. Ended up running it out quite a bit - in a few places I might have been able to get an extra piece in, but just felt I was in too precarious a position to fiddle around. Compared with Lumbar Puncture, I think the moves on this were harder and the gear worse (or at least trickier to place). (Possible I might have wandered too far left as I came up to the halfway ledge: was just below the small tree, topo showed the route a bit further right. However it felt natural, about 5c, and matches Dawlish's photo.)

Pintsize 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
ian d f 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Adrian, Mark
markfromstoke 30/Jul/14 2nd
with Adrian, Ian
markfromstoke 10/Jul/14 Lead

to the ledge only.

with Steve N
Felix Ottey 29/Jun/14 TR O/S
felixizzy 05/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Craig
felixizzy 30/May/14 2nd O/S
with Mike
zcsharp 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S

One intense move with good protection.

with Camilla
Camilla Mapstone ?/Mar/14 2nd
with Jamie
James Jackson ??/2014 -
Paul_southgate68 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Bottom half felt very bold, holds coming off in my hands! Great moves, most enjoyable :)

maresia 26/May/13 2nd O/S
LukeyG 25/Apr/13 Lead

sapling at start now gone, done to the good trees at half height top not worth the effort.

Hidden 25/Apr/13 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Apr/13 TR rpt
Hidden 18/Mar/13 TR O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/12 TR rpt
Hidden 05/Jul/12 TR O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/12 TR rpt
tomshanti 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S

really good moves!sustained delicacy to the ledge,very tricky half way up 2nd slab(being eliminate,inbetween the trees)still crumbling in places!

luke13 24/Mar/12 Lead
with Paul
upontop ??/2012 Lead rpt
with Sophie
Hidden 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd
riddle 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
Aaron Phillips 27/Jul/11 2nd O/S

good, solid E2/5C. footholds have a tendency to disintegrate. wear a helmet or just dont climb it! very, very, very fun and great laughs when footholds "dissappear"!

with my dad
Dawlish 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S

take lots of micro wires, this one left me with a dry mouth by the time i got to the top

Ruth ND 07/Jun/11 2nd β
with Ev
evhall 07/Jun/11 Lead O/S

nice route - slightly harder than it's neighbour!

with Ruth
Hidden 31/May/11 2nd
hutchay 31/May/11 Lead O/S

Very Flaky rock with hard first section with only microwires for protection - scarey. The section above the ledge has a lot of loose rock but easy climbing. Split it into 2 pitches and lead both.

Hidden 06/Apr/11 TR rpt
Dale ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S

first time to fairy cave, thought this route was a cross between slate slab and north devon culm this may be to do with the very cold winter all a little snappy. Micro nuts all the way to the first ledge 20m up where all hard climbing is only 1 of them micors was any good and a bit to low down. Enjoyable technicle climbing but scary got to the ledge couldn't stop shacking. Thought E2 5C was ment to be safe. Glad to be going home without a broken ankle 1 star

with johny
paul1234 27/Jun/09 2nd
with ollie
vertigo 19/Oct/08 2nd β
MarkRyder 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S

The shattered groove above the ledge is very loose.

with Rich
beardy mike 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S

When they say small wires they mean it!

with Ian Savage
Mark Davies PK 14/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Paul Robertson
Paul Robertson 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Onions 04/Aug/07 2nd O/S

Nice climbing to start then gets a bit tricky and then the preverbial hits the fan with about 3 moves on nothing to reach up and get a crimp with the relief you normally get from a jug. The second half is a lot easier.

with Neville Contractor
upontop ?/Aug/07 2nd
with Tim
Hidden 24/Jul/07 2nd
Matt Tranter 26/May/07 -
Hidden 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S
kevinknights 21/Apr/07 2nd O/S

thin!

with John, Dan
John_Hat ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Various
thrutch 03/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with mel and chris
upontop ?/Aug/06 Lead dnf
with Chris
KRB 21/Jan/06 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
chris sm ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
cornishben ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 17
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set