UKC

12m. A fun little route, now downgraded. Start below and slightly left of a small tree and climb to it passing two overlaps: passing the first is the 5b crux, the rest of the climbing is considerably easier. Abseil off.

M J Crocker, N A Coe 25/Jun/2002


ClimberDateStyle
JamesRich 26/Nov/17 2nd rpt
with BUMC
RyanH 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S
charley 04/Oct/17 Solo O/S
Fakey Rocks 24/Sep/17 TR O/S

Sketchy very thin move mounting 1st overlap, then ok.

with RyanH
JakeBest 16/Sep/17 Lead O/S

First E1 lead. Only one move, spent five minutes convincing myself the foothold was good for it.

with Abby
Hidden 03/Sep/17 Lead rpt
crater 02/Sep/17 2nd rpt
with mike
SteveLobley 12/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Rich Taylor
phil456 20/Jul/17 TR dog
with Graham M
67hours 14/Jul/17 TR β
with Glen AMC
haribotheclimber 08/Jul/17 Lead O/S
ngreen ?/Jul/17 Lead
suddy 21/Jun/17 Lead O/S
LukeWS 21/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Sud
raidiun 14/Jun/17 Lead dog

Tactical change of shoe required.

with Riccy
catty_9 11/Jun/17 TR O/S

One hard 5b move to get over the first overlap, rest really easy

Angrypenguin 11/Jun/17 Lead RP

After top-rope practice.

with Cat
ScottTalbot 03/Jun/17 TR dog

Took a good few attempts to work the first move, but plain sailing after that. Will attempt to lead it (next time lol).

with Steve
luke2107 22/May/17 Lead O/S
with Azzy
crater 13/May/17 TR rpt
with steve
Steve Woollard 13/May/17 TR
with Donald
Hidden 09/May/17 Lead
Hidden 09/May/17 2nd rpt
Dangerous David 06/May/17 Lead β
with Felix
Hidden 06/May/17 TR rpt
thel33ter 29/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Phil, Chloe Nunn
Phil 29/Apr/17 Lead dnf

Got above the first bulge (ish), couldn't reach anything useful, foot popped and suddenly I was upside down below the bulge. Gave up after this.

c357 26/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/17 TR dog
Skip 22/Apr/17 TR dog
BALD EAGLE 22/Apr/17 TR
TomGudgeon 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S
BBEENN 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/17 2nd dog
steve_gibbs 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Tom Harding
cols1982 02/Apr/17 Lead G/U
andrew.tyrrell 02/Apr/17 TR dog
with Colette
Dr.S at work 02/Apr/17 TR
Gregory Gibas 26/Mar/17 TR dnf
Carl 26/Jan/17 Lead O/S
sjscammell ??/2017 Lead

.... get your feet as high on the shelf as possible, then reach as high as you can for solid left hand hold ... yes, you might start to wobble for the crux move ...

ngreen 06/Nov/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Nov/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/16 TR
Bob M 05/Oct/16 2nd
with Nick Foot, Scott Titt
Hidden 05/Oct/16 2nd
Joshthomas 24/Sep/16 TR O/S
ema 24/Sep/16 TR
Hidden 15/Sep/16 2nd
Kayan 15/Sep/16 Lead
with Ben G
OllieF 22/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Martin
gobbledigook 17/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Really nice route, I was surprise by the grade, thought the crux was ok... But then, I wasn't the one in the sharp end!!!

with Lee
samparsons 06/Aug/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Aug/16 2nd
just one more 19/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with rich h, Max B
derryclimbs 17/Jul/16 -

Easy for E1. Good pro, the 'move' is pretty simple if you're used to slabs.

Hidden 09/Jul/16 TR O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Natalie C 09/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 18/Jun/16 TR
Fatclimber 18/Jun/16 TR dog
with Self Belayed
Hidden 02/Jun/16 TR
nikki_a_swan 15/May/16 2nd
with NaCl
Hidden 15/May/16 Lead O/S
crater 15/May/16 2nd rpt
with mike
crater 15/May/16 2nd
Bob M 13/May/16 TR
kirsten 08/May/16 TR
with Tim
afterthesend 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Gibbo 17/Apr/16 TR
with James Thompson, Ed Wright
JamesRich 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with BUMC
Hidden 10/Apr/16 TR
reece.robinson 21/Nov/15 TR O/S
Gavdee1 21/Nov/15 TR
Hidden 17/Oct/15 TR
Radical-G 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
c jepps 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S

definitely not E1

with keelan mcnulty
stalbot 20/Sep/15 2nd rpt

Climbed in flip-flops, not E1

HardmanJ 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Keelan McNulty 20/Sep/15 2nd rpt

Callum led it this time, after doing this route for the third time I really cant see how this is rated how it is. The gear at the brakes are solid, the moves are not difficult

Hidden 06/Sep/15 TR O/S
Paul Baller 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
91dave 11/Jul/15 2nd dog

Good lead from Cameron. Couldn't make the move without a few failed tries.

Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead
cameron_hall 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S

A one move wonder perhaps, but a difficult and non-obvious move!

will_benfold 11/Jul/15 Lead dnf

Couldn't work out the move, mainly because I was trying to go up with the wrong foot!

will_benfold 11/Jul/15 2nd rpt

Lina showed me how it ought to be done!

will_benfold 11/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Went back and did it properly

Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 2nd dog
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead dog
stalbot 25/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Keelan McNulty 25/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Keelan McNulty 25/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Steve Woollard 23/Jun/15 TR
with Donald
OllieF 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Well protected crux, easy climbing above!

with Chris Rees
Larey 23/Jun/15 Lead RP

fell at the crux, couldnt be bothered to re do the easy slab at the bottom before 2nd go

with Paul
e9mark 23/Jun/15 TR
with barry
crater 23/Jun/15 TR O/S
with steve
Hidden 21/Jun/15 TR
carl_123 10/Jun/15 TR O/S
mick1jones 28/May/15 Lead RP

used a sling to protect move over first overlap

with Pete
felixizzy 16/May/15 TR rpt
with Soph
cpoad 07/May/15 Lead rpt

Crux felt tough to me as a shorty, but found a nice way to make the move.

with John S
Hidden 29/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead β
lazzaw 15/Apr/15 TR dog

Did worse than last time!

with Jonathan Cook, Andrew Porter
lazzaw 06/Apr/15 TR O/S

Tricky over onto the first overlap. The rest is a breeze

with Jonathan Cook
smartydh9 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/14 TR dnf
Hidden 27/Oct/14 TR rpt
jayyaj 05/Oct/14 TR β
Hidden 05/Oct/14 TR
Echna 28/Sep/14 Lead RP
with Dalinda, Rich
BFG 28/Sep/14 Lead

Greasy. Made the hard move interesting. It went though after a bit of faff. Not sure it warrants E1 given the quality of the protection available in the overlap. I've belayed off worse.

with James Orde Powlett
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Sep/14 TR
BStar 27/Sep/14 TR O/S

Wow, hard! My short reach didn't make this any easier.

with Rachael
cbonner 14/Sep/14 TR RP
JP78 07/Sep/14 TR
TwofoZeus 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Very fun climb, first E1. Accidentally ripped a part of a flake undercut before the crux. Still a good hold but not as deep anymore, be warned

Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Huntlyfiddler 02/Sep/14 2nd
bpmclimb 02/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Again, found the crux move hard, and felt quite committing despite three good pieces under the overlap.

with Clare
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead dog
Hidden 19/Aug/14 TR rpt
cpoad 17/Aug/14 TR dog
with John S
felixizzy 07/Aug/14 Solo rpt
RobScarisbrick 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

One move wonder

with cdpuk
cdpuk 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Worthwhile, even if just for the one technical move.

Hidden 13/Jul/14 Lead RP
Chris Sieradzki 06/Jul/14 2nd dog

One move route which is well protected. First overlap provides bomber gears. The move is technical rather than strenuous (5c?) and the key is to find tiny foothold. It stopped me for a while. Well done to Howard for clean lead.

with Hooo
Hooo 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Not much more than a boulder problem, but it is a good move.

Tom Harper 01/Jul/14 Lead dog

Repeat climb to set up a bottom rope. Fell on the crux again

Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd β
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
nath_casper 29/Jun/14 Lead RP

one move wonder

with Felix
Tom Harper 23/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Tom Harper 19/Jun/14 Lead dog

took a couple of falls getting over the first break. finaly got over it and found it a bit of a one trick pony.

felixizzy 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Craig
riddle 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Placed wire strop at the belay.

Neil Watson 14/Jun/14 TR
with Riddle
Stanners 13/Jun/14 TR O/S

ridiculous move, no idea how I stayed on. Good little problem though!

samparsons 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with John
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
jopayne1988 30/May/14 2nd dog
Deary65 13/May/14 TR RP

Very tricky getting over first overlap. Couldn't find much for hands.

Trisha Murphy 13/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Larkins
J.Atkins 10/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/Apr/14 TR O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/14 TR O/S
lday ??/2014 Lead O/S
sheelba 23/Nov/13 Lead
riddle 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
zadurrani 14/Sep/13 2nd
with riddle
jezb1 10/Aug/13 Lead

E1 5b is right in my opinion

Hidden 10/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 07/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/13 Lead
Ian JL 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 05/Jul/13 Lead RP

Overall easy for E1, but hard for 5b! Bit of one move wonder, and the move is pretty thin.

with Dave
davenev 05/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Great little 5b move - very thin

with Ivan
Shone 18/Jun/13 Lead
with Ian Butterworth
johnl 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Adam Perrett
rustyfishhook 25/May/13 TR O/S

tough balancey rock over, loved it!

Trippinjester 25/May/13 TR O/S
gjh 25/May/13 Lead RP
Adam Perrett 25/May/13 Lead RP

On pre-placed gear.

cpoad 18/May/13 Lead dnf

Fell at overlap. Tried a few more times but couldn't do it. Think there's a better way to do this.

with Clare F
Hidden 25/Apr/13 Lead RP
Big Rik 01/Jan/13 2nd
UnkArl 01/Jan/13 Lead RP

Not exactly the best conditions (very cold and the step by the first gear was running with water) but had a bash anyway. 1 Fall from the crux overlap then lowered back down and tried again, got it clean second go. May have been the conditions but this felt very scary and VERY hard.

with Rik
Nix33 ??/2013 -
bradholmes 14/Oct/12 TR
cbonner 14/Oct/12 TR rpt
Richezzz 27/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/12 TR O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/12 Solo β
cbonner 16/Sep/12 Lead RP

Solo

Morgan P 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Short with only one hard move - a mantle onto the next slab. Solid tree belay.

with Ben Walters
BBEENN 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 19/Jul/12 TR rpt
with Shunt
kelliroberts3 01/Jul/12 Lead β
with merlin march, Peter Rigby
Pete Rigby 01/Jul/12 Lead β

Very soft even for E1

with Merlin March
J.Atkins 26/Jun/12 Lead O/S
SGD 01/Apr/12 Lead

Surely this isn't E2? This is HVS and just about 5b, if I went over the 1st overlap in the correct place??

BALD EAGLE 31/Mar/12 Lead
with Rob Horler
sweenyt 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Tom M
clams ??/2012 -

Soft touch

with PR&K
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S
nick hawkins 14/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 03/Oct/11 TR O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
nick hawkins 10/Sep/11 -
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead RP
jamespilgrim 02/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Definitely no more than 5b

with Mark
MarkRyder 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with James P
bpmclimb 22/Aug/11 Lead rpt

E1 5b. Some find the hard move quite easy (perhaps those with long legs and/or good hip flexibility); some (like me) don't.

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 22/Aug/11 2nd
stuntsbyjon ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK 04/Jun/11 TR

E1 5b

with Mr Shunt
bpmclimb 14/Mar/11 TR rpt
with Shunt
stuntsbyjon 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Wicked climb; I agree that it is low in the grade, but its a fun route never-the-less. The crux is the step over the first slab; the rest of it is easy.

Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
wheelo 28/Feb/09 TR
with cas
trevor macalonan 13/Jul/08 TR O/S
with Sebo
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Sam Pictor 10/Jun/08 Lead RP

Top-roped it first, then led it!

with Dad
Hidden 04/Jun/08 TR
cas smerdon 04/Jun/08 TR
cas smerdon 21/May/08 TR
with Dave Brewer
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
Richard Hall ??/2008 Solo O/S

Easy, probably only E1 even if you solo it.

Hidden 13/Aug/07 TR
guy xavier percival 09/Aug/07 Solo O/S
with none
freelancer_85 30/Jul/07 2nd rpt
with Raphael
Hidden 30/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/07 TR
Hidden 11/Jun/07 TR
cas smerdon 11/Jun/07 TR
with jones, brewer, mprb007
bpmclimb 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S

The move over the first overlap felt like 5c

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 22/Apr/07 2nd
freelancer_85 22/Apr/07 Lead dog

Took a fall getting established on the second slab. Got back up and finished it off though!!

with Megan
kevinknights 21/Apr/07 2nd dog

hard rockover

with John, Dan
John_Hat ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Various
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Lead O/S
KRB 07/May/05 Solo O/S
cornishben ?/Jan/05 Lead O/S
with Ian Butterworth
Hidden ??/2005 Lead rpt
Nigel Coe 25/Jun/02 2nd

FA

with Martin Crocker
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 32
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set