25m. Start just right of the lowest point of the slab. The crack looks easy and well protected but isn't. Climb the crack and move right up the ramp for 4m; then make a reachy move to the diagonal crack of Lunar Landscape. One move right along this gains wide cracks which lead easily to a sapling lower-off.

J Stanbury, R A Broomhead 24/Apr/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.


ClimberDateStyle
ssutton 15/Jul 2nd
martin one 15/Jul Lead O/S
with ssutton
JoeCoxson 08/Jul Solo O/S

Horrible polish on the start

TGHB 08/Jul 2nd O/S

Very polished first few footholds, slipped off a few times to the bottom but seem to be too dim to find the G/U bit

Wendy Watthews 08/Jul Lead rpt
RyanH 05/Jul Lead O/S
littlematt 01/Jul Lead
AngelaC 24/Jun Lead

Tough start with poor footholds - I could have just been a bit tired but it felt harder than Withy Crack!

Hidden 18/Jun Lead
Legs 15/Jun Lead O/S
markfromstoke 13/Jun -
with Adrian, Steve N
RWB1986 10/Jun Lead O/S
Reesclimbs 10/Jun 2nd dog
with RWB1986
AndySL 25/May 2nd O/S

Very shiny on the bottom crack.

with Justin
justinboynton 25/May Lead G/U
with Andy
John Sheehan 10/May Lead O/S
with Kelvin
67hours 09/May Lead O/S
with Steve AMC
fharnish13 23/Apr Lead O/S
with Zoe!
afterthesend 23/Apr 2nd O/S
marcb 23/Apr Lead O/S
with Tom Dale
oli87 20/Apr Lead O/S
stoneback 16/Apr TR
with Alan
cavemancolumbus 08/Apr Lead
with Oli
Bristoldave 24/Mar 2nd O/S
Cheese Monkey 23/Mar Lead rpt
with Dave
Hidden 15/Sep/16 2nd
Kayan 15/Sep/16 Lead
with Ben G
Hidden 31/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Paul Baller 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with matt stevens
Hidden 26/Aug/16 2nd rpt
How easy 15/Aug/16 Lead O/S
JDG2428 15/Aug/16 2nd
runwildjohn 15/Aug/16 2nd

Stu led

Clee 11/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/16 2nd
lukerathmell 29/Jul/16 Lead
Larey 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Hard

with emdawes
ngreen 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
julesmckim 18/Jun/16 2nd O/S

good climbing, enough gear

Hidden 02/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 24/May/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/May/16 Lead rpt
Claireybloomers 23/May/16 2nd
with Andy
andy dunn 23/May/16 Lead
with Claire
cdpuk 08/May/16 2nd O/S
Echna 07/May/16 2nd rpt
with Rich, Alison
Gibbo 17/Apr/16 Lead
with James Thompson, Ed Wright
Tom courtiour 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
hutchay 02/Apr/16 2nd O/S
miriamclaire 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with hutchay
Phil Anderson ??/2016 2nd
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Mayaculpa 10/Oct/15 TR
David Staples 10/Oct/15 Lead rpt
Rob Morgan 26/Sep/15 Lead
with Win-yei
Win-yei 26/Sep/15 2nd
with Rob
Chris Sieradzki 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Hooo
Hooo 20/Sep/15 2nd

Easier and better protected than Jiggery Pokery, despite what the guidebook says.

WillAndrew 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Tom N
g.chalker 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S
felixizzy 16/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Soph
Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead
Tom Downes 12/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
just one more 29/Jul/15 Lead β

Nice slab climbing

with ben enright, katie b
Robin Woodward 21/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Slightly bold start. Nice enough route, the transfer to the crack didn't seem cruxy.

Jenny Dart 21/Jul/15 2nd
with Robin
lakeyross 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S

nice route, lovely day, lush quarry. :-) 5a? dont think so, 4b/c?

ali.scott 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Pete C
91dave 11/Jul/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
cameron_hall 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Angrypenguin 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
MoWalker3 02/Jul/15 2nd
with Rob
Bob M 18/Jun/15 Lead
catty_9 17/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Angrypenguin 17/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Cat
Hexman 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Steve Bartle 10/Jun/15 Lead rpt
danieleaston 10/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Steve
Steve Woollard 17/May/15 Lead
with Donald
crater 17/May/15 2nd

very slippy start, prob hvs

with steve
maresia 13/May/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/May/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/May/15 2nd rpt
sideshow84 10/May/15 Lead β

With pre placed gear.

91dave 09/May/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/May/15 2nd
Hidden 09/May/15 Lead
Fatclimber 04/May/15 2nd O/S
Deako 04/May/15 Lead
Ollie Wickham 23/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Richard Mackie
Felix Ottey 05/Apr/15 2nd rpt
ape1980 05/Feb/15 2nd rpt
with Garth
Hidden 01/Feb/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/Feb/15 Lead rpt
Echna 28/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Rich
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead rpt
steve_gibbs 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with John Harris, Jamie Roberts
Matt Amos 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
abtibbs 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Jamie Roberts
Ian JL 07/Sep/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 22/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Steve Woollard 20/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S
ian d f 07/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Steve Needs
will_benfold 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
91dave 03/Aug/14 Lead rpt

First VS lead. Tricky first section before gear a few metres up. The right-trending ramp was fine, but the step above the slot (and gear!) was certainly tasty. Very happy with the lead.

with Hester Robertson, Kerry Mellor
Pintsize 03/Aug/14 2nd

Extremely slippery in the rain! Still good fun though

callans 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Tricky start and a lot of imaginary footholds.

katiep 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Lower section felt a little fluttery but a great route

with Callan
Hidden 31/Jul/14 2nd dog
Hidden 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Adrian Daniels 27/Jul/14 2nd
Steve Webster 27/Jul/14 Lead
Moritz L 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Stefan, rylett
Hidden 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Tom Harper 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Start is becoming very polished. Felt hard for 5a

sjscammell ?/Jul/14 Lead

pleasant little bimble. cheeky thread thru to drop in protection ...

Pintsize 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
91dave 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/14 Lead rpt
thomb 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
gregclarke 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Brian
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Kemics 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

I really enjoyed this route, excellent rock and a reasonable line. No move close to 5a though.

with Dom
Neil Watson 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Riddle
riddle 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
samparsons 13/Jun/14 2nd
with John
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 08/Jun/14 2nd
with Alex
wurzelinzummerset 01/Jun/14 2nd
with Ric
bonelessivar 01/Jun/14 Lead RP

Fell off at the start, lowered and led clean. Clearly, I wasn't in slab mode!

Bob Peters ?/Jun/14 -
Hidden ?/Jun/14 -
Steve Bartle 31/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead rpt
alexwolf47 26/May/14 2nd O/S
mutly 26/May/14 Lead O/S
with Alex W, Carla
matthew_dunn224 26/May/14 2nd O/S
karlanjana 26/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead O/S
BallsOfSteel 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with Felix
felixizzy 18/May/14 2nd rpt
with Sean
David Staples 18/May/14 2nd O/S
drgrange 15/May/14 Lead O/S
with davenev
davenev 15/May/14 2nd O/S
with David
kiwi boy 04/May/14 2nd rpt

Start is now harder with polish starting to become eveident

with David Smith
The Ivanator 04/May/14 Lead rpt

Best VS on the Glacis, forgot how nice the moves on this are.

with Rob
Mlongman 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Ben Lipczynski, Matt Taborda
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
felixizzy 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
kirsten 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Brian
wurzelinzummerset 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Really enjoyed this route today.

with Nick
stoneback 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Alan
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
riddle 18/Apr/14 2nd
plilley 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Yasmina, Roger
gjh 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
BicycleBradley 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Rich
shim ?/Apr/14 2nd
BFG 16/Mar/14 2nd
James Jackson ??/2014 -
Easty14 05/Oct/13 Lead
Echna 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Ali.B 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with johnevans
Dave Thompson 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Mark Lee
johnl 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sarah Perrett, Adam Perrett, Andy Dunford
Adam Perrett 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

On preplaced gear

with Sarah Perrett
dereke12000 29/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Tricky start, otherwise good. In situ anchor rope is rotten.

with Rob
Hidden 29/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Adrian Daniels 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with John Parrott
Wendy Watthews 11/Aug/13 Lead
with Liz, arandall
arandall ?/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/Jul/13 Lead
MoWalker3 17/Jul/13 -

Moved left up slab to gear near small bush, I assume this was the top 3rd (ie the easy bit) of Glacial point. dusty.

with Cormac
wurzelinzummerset 15/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Ben
Cheese Monkey 15/Jul/13 2nd rpt

Still tricky

with Alan
mick1jones 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Mike Guttridge
timstyles 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
jon bradley 12/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Tim Styles
Swsloper 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Felix Ottey 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Fun route good gear.

Psychlane 05/Jul/13 Lead
with Plov
mikeydee135 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
beckett45 28/Jun/13 Lead
Shone 19/Jun/13 Lead
with Ian Butterworth
Hidden 19/Jun/13 Lead rpt
sheelba 01/Jun/13 Lead
maresia 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 18/May/13 2nd O/S

Difficult start and a long reach halfway

with Peter
pheotleyr 18/May/13 Lead O/S

Start is not as bold or insecure as the guidebook makes out - had a seemingly bomber small cam in at about 3 meters.

with Ben
sonic46 05/May/13 Lead
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Chazwoz 27/Apr/13 Lead β
Hidden 19/Apr/13 2nd β
Hidden 19/Apr/13 Lead rpt
rachchanter 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
clams ?/Apr/13 Lead
with Chazwoz
sadlerbrett 23/Feb/13 Lead dog

My second trad lead. Took a rest at the crux, but the gear was good :-))

with Ian Hellier
JonHarvey 21/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Dave Moir, James Langridge
langar27 21/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Swsloper ?/Jan/13 Lead
Swsloper ?/Jan/13 Lead
Nix33 ??/2013 -
norris.dan ??/2013 2nd O/S
ruaidh 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Thought this was mucho easier than Bobs crack. This start then romp upt the rest.

with Ben
cbonner 29/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Rope solo. Traversed too far right and fell off. Done the same a second time, flipped upside down and decked.

homing-penguin 19/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/12 Lead β
tomshanti 09/Sep/12 2nd β

Brad lead.nice climb,followed alternative start up slab left of initial crack as second

bradfry 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
lazzaw 06/Sep/12 2nd rpt
ape1980 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with lazzaw
mattc 03/Sep/12 Lead RP
Jobbo 03/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Martin Bennett 01/Sep/12 -
with AlanB
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
LukeyG 12/Aug/12 Lead
chudders1 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S

awesome

iantoday 11/Aug/12 2nd β
Hidden 03/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Huntlyfiddler 03/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
cpoad 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Tough initial crack

with Mike S (Neil's friend)
lazzaw 25/Jun/12 Lead rpt
cornish bird 24/May/12 2nd O/S
with tom
Hidden 24/May/12 Lead rpt
wurzelinzummerset 23/May/12 2nd
with Brian
Hidden 23/May/12 Lead rpt
Big Lee 20/May/12 Lead O/S

Tricky, insecure start up the thin crack but easier as the climb progressed. A good route.

Samuel P 16/May/12 2nd O/S
with Niels, Tommy
Hidden 16/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Apr/12 AltLd
Steve Woollard 15/Apr/12 Lead
with Joe Bellows
Hidden 15/Apr/12 2nd
Sarah Welsh 15/Apr/12 AltLd
Mr Winkleberry 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
lazzaw 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Jason Wilber
Kayan 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 28/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with James H
Hidden 26/Mar/12 Lead rpt
wurzelinzummerset 26/Mar/12 2nd
with Brian
lukerathmell 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with steve
upontop 22/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Chris
Didymus 04/Sep/11 Solo O/S
kiwi boy 03/Sep/11 2nd rpt

Greasey rock with a difficult start. Good lead James. Repeat for me

with james 2, dean naylor
Deano100 03/Sep/11 2nd
with Andy H, James
Poco Loco 03/Sep/11 Lead

The rock was kind of greasy at the start. My feet slipped off the hard move twice! Got it third time from the ground. Taxing start in those conditions.

with andy2, Dean
Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead
sofe13 21/Aug/11 2nd

Lisa struggled, her hardest climb, got a bit pumped and was sloppy with gear, but she did it!

with Lisa
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Aaron Phillips 27/Jul/11 2nd O/S

a bit chossy and overgrown but very good!

with my dad
Dawlish 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Dave Ing 17/Jul/11 Lead O/S
BB1 17/Jul/11 2nd
mikeydee135 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Mai Wong, David Fisher
kiwi boy 26/Jun/11 Lead

Typical slab route. gear a bit spartan in the first 5m.

with joe
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
bonoid 26/Jun/11 2nd
with Andy
riddle 11/Jun/11 2nd
with Yasmina
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/11 TR
Hidden 24/May/11 TR
dannit 19/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/11 2nd
James Moyle 19/May/11 Lead rpt

Probably done before. Easy to slip on the first move, but fairly straightforward after that. Loads of good gear

with Richard Burton, D. Murphy
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead rpt
jon bradley 04/May/11 2nd rpt
with Brian Vaughan
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead
Will Gordon ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Huntlyfiddler 27/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Bob M 26/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 28/Mar/11 TR rpt
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
tommyt82uk 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Enjoyable

Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Dan Stel ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
davenev 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Tricky little start best done quickly

with luke
Mr Tickle 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with davenev
arandall 26/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with Isaac Whitcombe
Hidden 19/Sep/10 2nd
The Ivanator 19/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Tricky start, which makes it worth the grade unlike lots of climbs at FC ...not stiff for VS though in the wider scheme of things.

with Rich
crossdressingrodney 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with jon
Jonny M 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Colin Skuse, Oli Gray
Hidden 06/Sep/10 Lead O/S
shakeyjakey21 06/Sep/10 2nd
with Duncan
Hidden 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Richard Morgan 01/Sep/10 2nd
Ybot Htulk ?/Sep/10 Lead
with Richard
Helnorris 30/Aug/10 2nd
Bobling 30/Aug/10 2nd
with Helen, sredmond
stvredmond 30/Aug/10 Lead

enjoyed this bad boy especially the mid section moves after the slight traverse

Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead rpt
arandall 27/Aug/10 2nd β
jezb1 23/Aug/10 Lead

Damp low down which made the start a little tricky. Nice route.

Hidden 15/Aug/10 TR
Tom_Harding 08/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Tim
Hidden 05/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Huntlyfiddler 05/Aug/10 2nd
Graham C 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Marti
Marti999 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Tom_Harding 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Gordy
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S
andy dunn 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Alan
Darrell Read 01/Jul/09 2nd

Jamie led.

with Jamie O'Hare, Ian Johnson
Greg Pittam 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Amy Laverock
tobydunford 31/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/09 2nd O/S
Chris Homewood (Swindon MC) 09/May/09 Lead O/S
AlexD 03/May/09 2nd
joeurwin 03/May/09 Lead O/S

first VS lead, main difficulty at the bottom crackline.

with alex & Dan Bruniges
trevor macalonan 28/Sep/08 Lead
MarkRyder 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Lee
Hidden 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
upontop 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Chris
SC 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Hard start.

with Mike Kan
greedo 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Steve Marriott
Hidden 22/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 22/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 11/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 04/Jun/08 Lead rpt
cas smerdon 04/Jun/08 2nd
richardr ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/08 2nd O/S
ashleylist ?/Mar/08 -
with Tamsin Collins
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
petegunn ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 2nd O/S
Peter Swift ??/2008 AltLd O/S
vicvac 10/Nov/07 2nd
with alice
Hidden 10/Nov/07 2nd
Hidden 10/Nov/07 Lead O/S
John_Hat 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Stevieblue
Hidden 23/Aug/07 Solo rpt
Matt Tranter 11/Aug/07 Lead
Matt Tranter 17/Jun/07 Lead
with Zelda Greyling
Dan B 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Bev
Sarah Bough 18/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Henry Olver, Andrew Hawkins
Hidden 18/Apr/07 2nd
MarkR 15/Apr/07 Lead
MaddieT 14/Apr/07 2nd
with Matt
Matty 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Only tricky bit is the first crack in the slab.

Hidden 23/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 19/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Jon Miles
The Mountain Goat 19/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/06 2nd rpt
Hidden 08/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 22/Aug/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Aug/06 2nd
BruceW 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Hugh
Hidden 04/Jul/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Paul Robertson 08/Apr/06 2nd O/S

Harder than it looks.

with Paddy Wilson
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Lead O/S
Mark Salter 10/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Shorrock
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/05 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/05 Lead O/S
gripped01 ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Dan Graves
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden 14/Sep/04 Lead
Lev 04/Sep/04 2nd O/S
with Claire Curant, James Byrne
guy xavier percival 06/Jun/04 Solo O/S
with none
Mark Davies PK ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Laura
just one more 29/May/04 Lead
with john + suzi, Max B
Paz ?/Feb/04 2nd
with SA LC
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
cornishben ?/Jan/02 Lead
12 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 66
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 65
Votes cast 59
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set