70m, 4 pitches. P1. (20m 5a) Start 5m left of the Tyrolean and climb up and then left along horizontal breaks to reach a small ledge: at low tide, it is possible to avoid this pitch by scrambling around the back of the stack, making the route about HS overall. P2. (20m 4b) climb the steep slab above using the rightwards slanting crack to a bulge, pull over it, move left and ascend to a splendid cave belay. P3. (10m) an exposed traverse right leads past one upwards break to the base of an offwidth crack. P4. (20m 4b) Climb the crack to a large ledge and some huge blocks, then follow the easiest line which trends up and left to the top.

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, 2013 Scottish Multi Pitch Mission, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Summer Trip 2014, The Julia Bradbury Collection, The Great Gumclub Ticklist, Ultimate Sea Stack.

Mackinclimb 18/Oct/17 AltLd
arose 18/Oct/17 AltLd

Just. Swam with a dry bag just before 4pm with a rising tide. Pulled ropes on a swamped ledge at about 630 with the sun below the horizon and then got back in for the swim back. Great craic!

with Bob Tayler, Adam Macintosh
Dburns 26/Sep/17 2nd O/S
Simonfarfaraway 23/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Amazing day. Descent wet and scary... Tyrolean not in place. Spent a while fixing one, but probably better just swimming across with dry bag as other team did today. Great route. To the other team before us today, if you want the pics we have of you on the route message me through UKC

with loz
Jack00 23/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Led all pitches

with Andy Graham
danieleaston 08/Sep/17 AltLd

Led 1,3,5. Aided p1 due to slime. Brilliant sunshine but route was a bit wet, notably on p1 and the chimney at the start of p5. Set up tyrolean the day before, abbed off in one go on 50m ropes, just. Brilliant fun, great adventure, and amazing rock.

with Saz
herman0055 03/Sep/17 -
with Gareth
tim whitaker 19/Aug/17 AltLd rpt
Hidden 09/Aug/17 -
Hidden 09/Aug/17 2nd O/S
marconi 04/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

With Marv and Tasha. Got nekkid and swam the channel. Marv led p1a, p1b (safer to belay close to the 5a traverse), and p2. I ran p3 and p4 into one with long extenders and slings, and topped out. Abbed off in the twilight, swam back and scrambled out in the dark, got lost on the moor and made it back to the van for 1am. A perfect afternoon adventure

with Marv
Deary65 27/Jul/17 Lead dnf

Apprehensive and skeptical to start but after the scramble down and committing to the tyrolean (in place) psyche levels rose up! Traversed round from the tyrolean and started up, realised I was off-route and came to downclimb. Fell off and landed onto rock beneath. A tricky bail off and hobble back to the Lighthouse. I will be back!

dryvita 24/Jul/17 AltLd

An amazing adventure. Tyrolean orginal in place, one new looking red rope. Initial traverse pitch a little slippery. Otherwordly freehanging abseil in one.

with Ed Bot
Gawyllie 21/Jul/17 AltLd
with Dave B
mrbird 21/Jul/17 AltLd
with G. Wy
Hidden 18/Jul/17 AltLd
Deezel65 18/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

What a day out - perfect weather although the midges on the scramble were rediculous! The scramble up and down is probably the most dangerous part of the climb. The crux traverse at the start was wet and slimey and I ended up having to hold a piece of gear due to conditions. After that everything was perfect - loads of in-situ belay tat - split it in to 5 pitches just to make sure the ropes ran easy, didn't slow us down at all and change overs were slick. Got spewed on by a seagull which stinks! Def in my top 3 climbs.

paultgraham 11/Jul/17 2nd O/S
with Hedd
Hidden 26/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
cymjt 14/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Well wasn't that good fun!

with Georgia Pilkington
catrin289 08/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Route finding seemed a bi tricky

with Kitty
BIain 08/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Sam Evington, Adam Visick
adamvisick 08/Jun/17 AltLd
with BIain
tomaspkr 08/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with moritz morlok
Gemmazrobo ?/Jun/17 AltLd

Tyrolean was in place but really should be replaced, sheath is quite damaged and pegs+in situ gear not confidence inspiring. Last 2 pitches lead together, much rope drag wasn't fun as lack of extenders, bubbles on the summit, ace day!

ian d f ?/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Pete H
quickdrawmcraw 29/May/17 AltLd O/S
with Amy121
Amy121 29/May/17 AltLd

2nd & 5th pitch

AliGilmour 27/May/17 AltLd O/S
with Miina, Liam Watson
Patrick Hill 27/May/17 Lead O/S

Great mission hauling Dad up the Old Man of Stoer. Not as bigger epic with all Olly's rope access gear as Hoy last year.

Liam Watson 27/May/17 AltLd O/S
with Miina, AliGilmour
John Brayshaw 25/May/17 Lead O/S

A very fine adventure on a beautiful day. Tyrolean rope in place, but watch out at high tide - you will get wet!

with Shirley
TomKingston 25/May/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/May/17 2nd
ned_85 25/May/17 AltLd
with Tom Kingston
AliRLee 22/May/17 Lead O/S

good to go back again and do this classic line. Went a bit off route and Emily had to fight off a gull (sorry)

with Emily
emilyeadie 22/May/17 AltLd O/S
with Ali
Hidden 18/May/17 AltLd O/S
carr0t 06/May/17 -

several in-situ ropes ropes in place for tyrolean. 1 rope 3/4 cut through. plenty strong to get across, but would recommend adding another rope to the bundle if somebody has an old one laying about. we added our own as a backup. pegs on the far side look quite corroded, but there should be enough life in them for some time. A good hex is in place as a backup. Cave belay has fresh and very thick static rope in it. the top has even more of the same new static rope. The mid way abseil looks rubbish. Great route. technically not difficult, but quite exposed and feels very serious at times.

rmleatherby 06/May/17 2nd O/S
Simon Rackley ?/May/17 Lead O/S
s kennedy 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with ben
Hidden 28/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
harrig-01 ??/2017 AltLd
with Tiff, George
nuts and bolts ??/2017 -
scottie390 07/Nov/16 AltLd
masa-alpin 21/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Arrived after the mid-tide, and found the sea was too choppy, the first belay ledge being washed with occasional swells. We waited for 4 hours, and then tyrolean-traversed in using 3 in-situ ropes (the core of the one of the ropes was exposed). I lead P1+2 in one go (P1 was felt like 5b). I went off-route to the right on P3 and climbed back down for half a pitch length (VS 4b?) to get to the right belay. P4 was more straightforward (4b), but the opening move of P5 was tough (4c/5a). I found the route-finding was the hardest. Abed off in one-pitch with 50m double. It started drizzling on P5, and by the time we got back to the car, the heaven opened up properly. Just in time!

with Michelle A
Rob Moorcroft 16/Sep/16 2nd
Natalie feather 16/Sep/16 AltLd
salix 14/Sep/16 Lead

Done in gentle rain, but most of route still dry. First pitch an exception with wet greasy jams and feet making it an unpleasant approach. The rest flowed well, with gannets and seals all around.

with Neus, Jake
Hidden 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
sebrider 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Soloed the first traverse and then climbed stack in two pitches. One rap to bottom with with 60m rope. Tyrolean in place consisting of 3 ropes anchored by a satisfactory cluster of 'stuff'! As we set off the crazy tea lady had a go at us telling us we set off too late and there would not be enough light. She seems to know plenty about it, get free advice with your tea!

with Gregor
nick ferro 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1, 3, 5

glenngordon 27/Aug/16 Lead
with kiefer duffy, ray duffy
slopers 27/Aug/16 2nd rpt

A nice man dragged me up this on Saturday. Was much harder than I remember from 20-odd years (and 5/6 stones) ago. As an aside, we left a yellow climbing rope from the abseil (damn that pesky knot) hanging from the top of the stack to the landward side of the channel (see separate post in Lost and Found forum). Another report suggests it may have been removed from the stack and left on the headland. Can anyone confirm this ? I'd like to get the rope back (obv. !) any information gratefully received. Just a note to say our rope has been returned, thanks to the 2 forums members who helped. For info, the lady at the tea shop posted it back to me, so she's fine in my eye's.....

Hidden 23/Aug/16 2nd O/S
GOS 23/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Superb climb. Possible to veer off easily. falkirk course

with John Jackson , Joanne McCandless
bodovix 20/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

bringing a few pitons to back up the Tyrolean on the stacks side would be an idea, currently 2/3 very rusty ones in place.. plus a new (24/8/16) hex and marginal nut. personally id just swim next time....

Wildstyle 15/Aug/16 2nd
madguernseyboy 15/Aug/16 Lead

Got a little of route Three ropes in place for the traverse. Although one rope is only a week old the anchors are very poor and need replacing.

Aadashkevich 06/Aug/16 2nd
with Glen
ClimbingGlen 06/Aug/16 Lead rpt
BALD EAGLE 19/Jul/16 2nd
with Paul Donnithorne, Emma Alsford
Tightsgirl 04/Jul/16 AltLd

2 ropes in place for tyrolean. Ones sheath was worn through, the other had supposedly been there for about a week (according to the tea lady at the car park who was lovely and left us chocolate biscuits for when we got back). We clipped to both ropes to avoid the sag and upward battle on the way back over! Great climbing, awesome adventure!

with Joe Rochford
Hidden 14/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
peterhubbard 14/Jun/16 AltLd

Tyrolean in place but sheath worn through. I crossed on it but then we backed it up. Not much life left in it. Great route and a fantastic adventure!

with Conrad
Hidden 14/Jun/16 AltLd
Adam Booth 13/Jun/16 2nd O/S

Great fun on this classic route, with my bro and my Dad, loved the swim and the tyrollean. Good effort Dad, considering you've only done a few climbs before (especially as Ed took us up the E1 bit by accident!).

with Dad, Ed Booth
duncanbutler 07/Jun/16 AltLd
with Jack Dorward
esuddes 06/Jun/16 AltLd
with Hastie
Hidden 06/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/16 AltLd
Hidden 04/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/16 -
Hidden 03/Jun/16 2nd
Nigel Coe 03/Jun/16 Lead

I see someone has written ' Be aware of the tea lady at the light house she hates climbers.' However, we encountered a very friendly tea lady who had info on the tryolean and gives climbers a free cup of tea!

with John Jennings, Andy Chadwick
Ken Taylor 03/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Walked round the back to avoid greasy 5a traverse pitch

with Steve Livingston
Andy Chadwick 03/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/16 AltLd
john jennings ?/Jun/16 2nd

Two teams of 3 Nigel led me and Andy. Great fun.

with Nigel, Steve, Margaret, Ken, Andy
markfairbank 30/May/16 AltLd O/S

Low point was the ab and getting most of the way down before realising ropes weren't long enough and I could reach the wall to get to the intermediate belay :( ....commence 25m prussik back up! Otherwise an excellent day out, pleased tyrolean was in place!

Anne Gumbley 30/May/16 AltLd
rob askew 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

Amazing weather and dodged the fulmars pretty well.

holly138 29/May/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/16 Lead O/S
Liam Ingram 29/May/16 Lead O/S

Amazing adventure. Started at 7pm. P1 is somewhat tough for VS!

with Catriona Mallows
alexmcmillan 28/May/16 AltLd
annep11 28/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Nick Bryan, Clara
alex toomey 28/May/16 AltLd
nickb1 28/May/16 AltLd O/S
with ClaraC, annep11
Hidden 27/May/16 Lead
eilidh_m 26/May/16 AltLd dnf
with Fergus Eakin
Roberttaylor 25/May/16 Lead O/S

With Jake and Eilidh. Tyrolean in situ. Got badly fulmar'd on the final pitch. RIP jacket and trousers.

Hidden 14/May/16 AltLd O/S
kwoodroffe 09/May/16 2nd

Climbing with anna

with anna
GeorgeBell ?/May/16 -
Pete_Stewart 24/Apr/16 AltLd

Led pitches 3 and 5

Hidden 23/Apr/16 AltLd
rons 10/Apr/16 AltLd

Set up the Tirolean through choppy water and the route was a bit wet over the first two pitches. Great trip though!

deevid 28/Mar/16 2nd dnf

Surf forecast was reasonable, but when we arrived (just before low tide) we decided it wasn't safe to access the stack. Very large waves were occasionally sweeping through the channel. Also, the first belay point and the tyrolean point were regularly taking big splashes. Difficult decision, but definitely the right one. The lady from the tea shack at the lighthouse was really lovely, and approached us in the car park to discuss the weather forecast as she didn't want anyone getting hurt 'on her watch'.

with Heddwyn
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
Hidden ??/2016 -
mot1 26/Sep/15 AltLd dnf
Andy Hewison 26/Sep/15 AltLd

Water wasn't too cold for the swim across, Tom did a fine job of leading the 5a traverse in the very slimy crack without aid. We then went off route after pitch 2 going right far too early and climbing something much harder until we bailed before we got to the top!!!

with Tom
Dave Warburton 20/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Brilliant micro-adventure. Katie did the swim. Tyrolean to the lower anchors - which were OK not brilliant. Abseil from top to bottom on 60's.

Hidden 20/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Samuel Wainwright 18/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Had the stack to ourselves. Simply the best climbing adventure you'll have anywhere! Photos here

UncleMephisto 18/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Pure adventure and brilliant in every way.

jev 25/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Amazing route and the whole setting! Skipped P1 by walking around. Lead P3 and 5. Abseil and Tyrolean tat in ok conditions. Seen a massive red jellyfish in the gap we had to swim.

with Jonas
garmour 17/Aug/15 2nd

Beautiful day, enjoyable climb :-)

with John and Linda
TommyKips 25/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Awesome climb, perfect conditions!

Hidden 15/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Fat Andy Heff 15/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
kirstypallas 01/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/15 -
Scottysparks 22/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Calum muskett, Dean pennell
Andy Moles 22/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Jun/15 Lead O/S
tomwhitchurch 03/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

With Mark and Venla. The P1 traverse was pretty wet so Mark and I seiged it a wee bit.

MarkJB 03/Jun/15 AltLd rpt
with Venla Kantola, Tom Whitchurch
Hidden 30/May/15 AltLd
Hidden 30/May/15 AltLd O/S
HeatherF 24/May/15 AltLd O/S
with Tom Ripley, Jonny Baker
Hidden 19/May/15 AltLd
eaf4 05/May/15 Lead β

Amazing day. Calm seas, both swam there and back. No problems with route finding thanks to Graeme T. Good effort from Andy, first route in two years with two awkward traverse pitches and pretty exposed! Burger van lady even left us some cake under windscreen wiper!

with Andy Anderson
Hidden 12/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/14 -
JohnBotham 12/Sep/14 2nd
davebrox 08/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Vanders
CaelanB 26/Aug/14 Lead O/S

led pitches 1 and 3

with pete loveless
PeteLoveless 26/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

P 2&4

with Caelan Barnes
Cacyn 25/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Graham
DavidMcK 25/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Awesome position, climbing is well awkward

Hidden 25/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
calumhicks 25/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Ali Lee
AliRLee 25/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

great climb, wanted to do it for ages!!

Ryan23 24/Aug/14 2nd
vikinghandles 21/Aug/14 2nd O/S
DaveB61 15/Aug/14 AltLd
with Greg Jennings
Hidden 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/14 2nd O/S
JacobMarlow 17/Jul/14 -

Lead 2nd pitch with Angus leading 1st and 4th

gst 11/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
with Brian Shackleton
Billy 01/Jul/14 Lead
kirstypallas 01/Jul/14 2nd
with Billy
oliverk 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Did pitch 1 of Diamond Face route then moved onto this to finish. 45m rope is enough for a retrievable tyrolean. In-situ anchors on the stack side are in a poor state but we trusted them

with Pam
Cardi 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Evening ascent on the solstice. Flew to Glasgow from Cardiff, then drove up the same day with Jon. Jon took the swim on for the team. Tyrolean across, far side pegs and nuts looking a bit worse for wear. Lead traverse pitch and pitches 3&4. Went a bit far left at the top of pitch 4 and did an alternative crux, which was a bit harder but quite short lived.

with Jon W
EBailey 06/Jun/14 AltLd
Hugh Macgregor 06/Jun/14 AltLd
Elsier 31/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Adrian
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 28/May/14 AltLd
with Noah Rees, Harry Turnbull, Chris Rees
pftom 25/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & P4, took a more direct harder route on P1.

with Josh Casey
jcasey2436 25/May/14 AltLd O/S

difficult to see the starting pitch route due to high tides and the grease at the bottom but the next 3 pitches were a delightful adventure. Be aware of the tea lady at the light house she hates climbers. Apparently we put other peoples lives at risk climbing the stack

with Tom grady
2010_graham 24/May/14 AltLd O/S
gforce 03/May/14 AltLd
with Dirk
Dirk Wallis 02/May/14 AltLd
with Grrr
Hidden 30/Apr/14 AltLd
Tim Hamlet 15/Apr/14 AltLd

Swam over to set up. Great route nice adventurous feel.

with Iain Smith, Laura Hamlet
Hidden 30/Mar/14 -
Tdavy01 30/Mar/14 AltLd
Little AndyH 30/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
GordonAinslie ??/2014 -
James Thacker ??/2014 -
tumbling wizard ?/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with andrew marshall
ClimbingGlen 28/Aug/13 Lead

Awesome sea stack, tyrolene over and back. Atmospheric! routes easy to find, well protected, good tat for abseils/belay. Led all 4 pitches. One of the highlights of the year!

with Bobby little, Peter Cuthill
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd dog
planetmarshall 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Just awesome - Got a bit lost after the cave belay and finished up the "Diamond Face Route" - which has a lovely corner crack finish. Setup the tyrolean the day before, so some other climbers got some use from it.

with David Docherty
Chalky Cat 13/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Dom
tonevert 10/Aug/13 Lead

Brilliant route

with Gavin, Kevin Faux
Gavdee1 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Led 1st pitch before Tony led the rest

with Tony Johnson, Kev
Kevster 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
will moy ?/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Dave 88 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 to half way where I got a bit lost, and P4. Not climbing at my best by any stretch but who cares, what a great day out with perfect weather and a few other parties to have a bit of banter with. Won't forget this in a hurry.

with Pinkney
Hugh Macgregor ?/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 29/May/13 2nd O/S
Jules Lane 28/May/13 AltLd O/S

Fantastic day out with Colin Nave. Avoided P1 by going round the back. All other pitches 4b. Lucky I was belayed for the attempted rock hop, as the weeds reduced friction to zero and I slipped off at the last minute. After Colin's swim and setting up the tyrolean we were all set. The 2 stage Ab down was exciting and I reckon from the other comments we could have done it in one with our 50 and 60m ropes combined. Not sure I was relieved or disappointed that mr and mrs fulmar were not at home.

with Mynydd Colin
libby.southgate 26/May/13 AltLd

Did in three and a bit pitches. I led the first (round the traverse and up to the belay ledge), Josh led the second (from the ledge to the chockstone cave belay) and I led the third (to pretty much the top) before Josh finished up the easy ramp to the top proper.

with Josh Ring, Mark Brims
Tom Livingstone 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

A fantastic route but felt soft - quite literally. Took the E1 variation at the end of the leftward traverse on P1. 50m ropes will (just!) reach the ground from the top - no need to re-belay at half way. Take lots of cams and extender draws - don't need many wires.

Hugh Macgregor 26/May/13 AltLd
with Henry O'Brien
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead
Duncan Turner 21/May/13 Lead

Old man of stoer As others say, path down very precarious and slippy, at bottom found no Tyrolean set up so good job bought swim shorts! - note for next time take 5 finger shoes or similar to swim in as the barnacles are sharp. First pitch very green and slippy - even in dry weather it's slimy. Remaining pitches lovely, esp 3rd pitch - beautifully exhilarating! Things to know before you go: 1. Take shoes to swim in. 2. Ensure your rack has at least 2 of each of DMM dragon cams or equivalent. 3. Only 1 set of nuts needed - cams are the order of the day. 4. 60m double ropes will make the abseil in one go. 5. All belay points are well used and easy to recognise. 6. Currently NO Tyrolean in place (as of 21 May 13)

with stu
Hidden 21/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/May/13 AltLd
Andrew will wilson 08/May/13 AltLd
R0bbie 10/Jan/13 AltLd
with Taba
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Sally Hudson 21/Oct/12 AltLd
with Jakob Rosenhahn, Mike Scott
Hidden 21/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
connor 21/Oct/12 AltLd
NeilOMalley 25/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

awsome, nice weather, ab in the dark

A Walker 25/Sep/12 2nd
errrrm? 13/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Exciting and a bit scary, nearly retreated from the cave due to rain, but tried the traverse and found it wasn't so bad. Pitch 2 seemed hard with a rucksac and greasy holds, seemed harder than 4b.

with gaz h
sparbus 04/Aug/12 AltLd
with mike b
Hidden 03/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
craig cameron 02/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

This is one thee best climbs ever done!!!! led 2nd and last pitch.

philhilo 02/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Wet worrying decent with overloaded packs after rained all morning. Tyrolean in place, rpoe good but gear at sea end looking tired. Bottom pitch green slime fest - followed break around to far side, no chance of going up, and still 5b pitch! Rest of route clean if wet in the pooring rain. Tat in place for an ab to base on 60's. Alas high spring tide meant ledge now wave swept and tyrolean only 1m out of water - tyrolean swim! Sacs now super heavy with wet ropes so slow exit up streaming face. Back for 22.30.

with Helen E
Hidden ?/Aug/12 -
Jevans ?/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 20/Jul/12 AltLd
Dougbart 17/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
subflux 14/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Bill Wright
Calum Wadsworth 06/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Missed first pitch, really greasy

with Calum Irvine, Ruairidh Wadsworth
mikesuth 23/Jun/12 AltLd

Approach made in drizzle. Very greasy start. Led pitches 1&4 after bailing on P3 - I'll blame the wet rock. Great day climbing and a fantastic first VS multipitch. Abbed off on 60m ropes in one go.

with Simon Hayes
sleeplessjb 15/Jun/12 -

Felt kinda soft for the grade... Man was it draggy tho...

with Jamie
Pinky 09/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch, first traverse from tyrolene a nightmare as super slimmy, but enjoyed my lead. No real problem with Fulmars. Was a warm up for Old Man of Hoy, this was a wake up call im not ready for E1 sea stacks! Weather slighty overcast and more so windy which didnt help with my nerves, also passing showers. Absailed in one descent on two 60 m ropes. Got a pinch off belay in front of 2 fulmars who were fine until I yelped and then they freaked out, argg.

with alec thomas, chris thomas
Hidden 09/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 07/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
tebs 06/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Climbed with Rob and Becca. Walked round the back to avoid the first pitch which was grotty. An absolutely brilliant day out. Climbing not too hard but engrossing, especially during the rain shower. The four highlights for me were the swim, the chimney pitch, the champagne finish and the abseil past menacing fulmars. Fantastic

with Tim
Hidden 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Callum T 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Kyle Flegg, Marcus Peabody
MarcusP 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Kyle, Callum
victorhearnyeates ?/Jun/12 -
CurlyStevo ?/Jun/12 AltLd

I'm not convinced the first pitch is 5a felt standard 4c fair to me.

with Kenny
Carol Goodall 29/May/12 AltLd O/S

Jonnie swam and led the traversy 5a pitch to the start of the route. I led Pitch 2, the end of 3 (after Magnus had some difficulty route finding) and Magnus finished the route. Great climbing with the main difficulty being the chimney-like crack on P2. Good weather, slight breeze so good photos on top. A seagull threw up on me on the way down leaving me with a lingering fishy smell to remember the route.

with Emily Suddes, Magnus Woods, Jonnie Williams
jonnie3430 29/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Emily
Hidden 24/May/12 AltLd O/S
Tom Baird 22/May/12 AltLd O/S

Easier when you go the right way!

with Jonno
isi_o 19/May/12 Lead

Managed to get off route and abseiled off. An adventure anyway, but need to go back and finish it! No tyrolean in place at present, but anchor on far side was sound enough. Rock hopping looked 'exciting' even with low tide, so we avoided it and got wet instead. Scramble down to shelf is a bit loose in places - not a place you'd want to take a slip.

with Roddy Murray
Hidden 18/May/12 AltLd
Bry 18/May/12 AltLd O/S
Zoe Cockburn ?/May/12 2nd
radioshed 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Hot + sunny, fantastic route, climbing doesn't get better.

with Reuben
David Stevens 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Rob Chase
crookachili 31/Mar/12 AltLd
JonG ??/2012 -
Patzl ??/2012 -
goadventure1 ??/2012 -
Narked4fun ??/2012 -
with Paul Richmond, George Wright, Keith Bell
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
Patzl ??/2012 -
Steven Carter ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Jessie675 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S

First ever multi pitch climb very good

Hidden 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
nia 26/Jul/11 2nd
with harry
Hidden 26/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/11 AltLd
Pete Barker 21/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Steve
steev 21/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
with Pete Barker, Kimball
JonnyPetrie 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Roddy, Ally
rodders24 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Epic, Wee joony lead most of it!

with Wee Jonny, Alistair Gray
unbezonking 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with wee johno
Mark Collins 24/Jun/11 Solo O/S

Great to get this done after three years of trying, a superb adventure! I did the HS route according to the description above. There is a taught tyrolean setup to the start of the original route at the moment but I can't comment on its quality.

Mark Collins 24/Jun/11 TR rpt

HS route according to the description above.

Shaw Brown 10/Jun/11 2nd
judith neaves 10/Jun/11 2nd
Peter Metcalfe 10/Jun/11 Lead

Birthday (+1 day) celebratory climb. Good weather and sea state after the problematic northerly swell mid-week. Arrived soon after low tide at an in-situ and apparently brand-new Tyrolean, and then found that we could just about scramble around the back of the stack to avoid the first pitch. Climbing much better than expected - felt like solid, unpolished, gritstone. The hardest part of the whole endeavour turned out to be abbing off, past several irate fulmars and thence into space, apparently heading straight for the boiling sea far below! 60m ropes highly recommended.

Mhairi G 27/May/11 2nd

My first sea stack. Absolutely amazing day! Didn't brave the very frayed in situ rope and the next party removed it as it looked so unsafe.

with Patrick
Pat-H 27/May/11 Lead
with mhairi
Mike Turner 19/May/11 Lead O/S
with Keith Fisher
Hidden 05/May/11 2nd
Neil Adams 01/May/11 Lead O/S
with Elizabeth
Hidden 30/Apr/11 2nd
ablackett 29/Apr/11 AltLd

First 2 pitches felt jolly hard, must get better at jamming.

with Jonny
sophiecb 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

My first sea stack. Awesome:) Led pitch 3

with Rob
jonny taylor 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Found the first pitch very tough indeed as all the holds were soaking wet. Later pitches were a lot of fun - just like being on Yorkshire grit! Tyrolean/bolt in situ.

with Andy B
climberuk 27/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Fixed rope in place so no need to swim. Climbed 5a pitch due to high swell around base of stack. Guide book description of where it goes is rubbish. Just go up and immediately left from the middle-left side of the platform. Excellent route. Had a bit of route finding difficulty due to poor guidebook description but managed to stay on route. Only 2 or 3 technical moves the rest not hard. Amazing views from the top. Abseil down in 2 pitches was interesting. Michael ended up hanging in space and had to throw a nut key attached to the rope to catch the tat on the stance to pull himself in towards it.

with Waneata
simon_D 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Did p1 traverse and wall to first belay, then took a R slanting flake crack (off-route, original goes up from here) diaganal across to a small belay stance. then up to the wide ledge of NW corner route! Then came the fun 5b ramp pitch (used a wee bit of aid on the initial move using an ancient rusty peg, with a nut wire), then up the final chimney (excellent fun). Not the original route we intended but an excellent variation.. 60m abseil to the floor, ropes got seriously wound together so after 2 hours struggle managed to retrieve from the lanward side and excape, overall amazing exposure and adventure.

with Alex
tompercy ?/Apr/11 Lead
with French Duncan, Kat Pratschke
Hidden ??/2011 -
Safety Monkey ??/2011 Lead
adie84 ??/2011 -
TBowell nee Holdsworth ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
tallthinmonkey 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Awesome adventure! Very slimy traverse at the start, had to aid one bit. rest of route was great.

with Ewan Paterson
Ommuff 28/Sep/10 AltLd
with Mike Brian
chrism225 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S

weather was A-mazing

with Jen Trendall, polly, dave
Hidden 25/Sep/10 AltLd
nowler 12/Sep/10 -
Mark Fairhurst 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
cmars89 09/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/10 2nd
Mark Fairhurst 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Robert93 18/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/10 2nd
Joemanglerocks 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Amazingly lucky with the weather but in-situ tyrolean appreciated as water was pretty nippy. Bit lost on third pitch but no real hassle. Buzzed by Tornado at top.

with Andy Harding
MaxR 07/Aug/10 2nd dnf

Recorded due to quality adventure of a day! Abbed off a third of the way up due to lack of psyche and less than ideal conditions, will definitly be back!

with Toby
tobyk 07/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
mattkemp70 ?/Aug/10 AltLd
with Westy
Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/10 AltLd
luckyjim ?/Aug/10 AltLd

james very graciously did the swim across and back allowing me to retrieve the tyrolean rope even though i was happy to leave it behind..good man !

with J Kinnaird
Theeni ?/Aug/10 AltLd
sjfisher 23/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/10 AltLd
John Roe 03/Jul/10 AltLd

Led pitch 1 then 4 & 5 together. Route as described in the SMC guide. 60m ropes give one abseil off the stack. Care required for the descent from the landward side down.

with Adam Davis, Iain (Jocky) Marr
Hidden 03/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/10 Lead
mark88 19/Jun/10 AltLd

Lead P1 & 3, Johnno P2 & 4. Best climbing trip up to date!

with Andy Johnson
vincentvega 19/Jun/10 AltLd
with kevin k, danny robb
gareth scott borthwick 09/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

i took 1st and 3rd pitches

with mat
Hidden 07/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
pete87abs 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

start at 4am great route. felt quite hard maybe from lack of sleep

with john
johnrc 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S

started climbing at 4am, was epic! really slimy bottom traverse, rest is awesome.

with pete a
bigdrew 03/Jun/10 AltLd dnf

Got lost on a massive ledge about 20m up. Abbed of north side of here on poor pegs. Tyrolean traverse in situ with a bolt land side. Will be returning to finish!

with Chris
JEP 01/Jun/10 AltLd
with Kirstin
Steve Perry ?/Jun/10 AltLd
with Mike Martin
Steve Waters, Mynydd 31/May/10 AltLd
mtempest 31/May/10 AltLd
with Jen, Steve Waters, Mynydd
Barry D 31/May/10 Lead
with Trish, Chris M
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
mikemartin 19/May/10 AltLd

What an adventure! We didn't tension the tyrolean enough and almost ended up swimming, we also got a bit lost on pitch two and steve ended up getting attcked by a fulmar then we topped out in the sunshine with an audience watching from the cliff top. Sensational abseil back down, top day.

Hidden 17/May/10 Lead
Hidden 17/May/10 2nd O/S
Johann ??/2010 AltLd O/S
with Martyn Stott, Alex Wheeldon
Johann ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
james chesmer ??/2010 AltLd O/S
with Rowan Chesmer, Martin Chesmer
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Natalie feather ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
jakeclimber ??/2010 AltLd
with Andrew Wilkinson
Hidden 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Andrew Lodge 12/Sep/09 AltLd

Led pitch 1, 3 and 4. A great day out

with Adrian, Pete, Steve
jamestheyip 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Went slightly off route which involves climbing some 5b sections of the E2 route next door and dealing with vomiting seagull. Got caught by high tide on the way back had to hang for 3 hours before it was possible to do the tyrolean crossing above the very choppy sea.

with Alejandro Garcia
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
dmorgan27 ?/Aug/09 Lead

First attempt started raining, returned to van and set alarm for 6 to catch the low tide. Swam out in wet suit used a rope to pull over climbing gear and partner. Tricky traverse at start to corner, very wet and slippery. Rest of the route was fabulous.

with Terryl
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/09 2nd O/S
jcw 26/Jun/09 -

Me at 75 years old

with Simon Richardson
Hidden 19/Jun/09 2nd O/S
1918hasti 15/Jun/09 AltLd
with Paul Bradwell
Paul-Michael 06/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1 & 2, Paul Nurse, Alex, & Peter were following on second rope. Alex swam the channel to setup the trilean traverse.

teflonpete 06/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Led 1st, 3rd and 5th pitches with Alex leading the others after bravely swimming across to set up the Tyrolean. Paul Nurse seconded all pitches with us.

with Alex
freudy_love 06/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Ruairidh Mackenzie
CalumC 02/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Went the wrong way on the last pitch :( Still ok but quite run out and involved vomit dodging.

with Ferdia Earle
ferdia 02/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Andy Moles 01/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Dan Currie, Tom Wallbank
lyndseymackay ?/Jun/09 -
JdotP 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Lyndsey Mackay
HIGHTOWER 24/May/09 Lead

Wet and cold. Grabbed one piece of gear on the 1st pitch.

with Liz
liz-264 24/May/09 2nd
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead
Bullybones ?/May/09 AltLd
mhmiller ?/May/09 AltLd O/S

Awesome day out, superb climb. Windy and cold tho

with scott hewitt
Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd
chedder 31/Jan/09 2nd
with chris thorne
Hidden 01/Jan/09 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
jess ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with martin
brockers ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with CarlZ
Hidden 12/Sep/08 AltLd
gazbonutter 12/Sep/08 2nd
duzinga 12/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Finally, got a chance to visit this place! There was little magic in the air though; the stack was too busy (more than 15 climbers on this route). 1st pitch was a nightmare, failed to commit to the damp and mossy crux in front of a large group of spectators, but seconded it thanks to Pete. 2nd and 3rd pitches were great.

with Pete and Gary
Richard_Lowe 05/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

A great adventure on a fantastic sunny day. A Tyrolean traverse, great climbing in a superb situation, an audience on the mainland cliffs, and best of all, climbing partners Jim Woodley and John Wilson made the day. A true **** route.

with James Woodley
Hidden 28/Aug/08 2nd
Jesse Dufton 14/Aug/08 Lead
mol 14/Aug/08 2nd
with Jesse
Hidden 25/Jul/08 AltLd
Sandy Simpson 25/Jul/08 AltLd
with mshortt
bridget143 29/Jun/08 AltLd dnf

Attempted it in wet conditions hoping for improvemnt in weather. I swam across, set up tyrolene. Sea state rose, weather got worse, turned back on first pitch.

with Brown
Hidden 05/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
gaz.marshall 31/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Steev
sgl 19/May/08 AltLd
with Susie
Keith-Getoutadventures 16/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Gibby
Hidden 14/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/08 2nd dnf
R0bbie 26/Apr/08 Lead dnf

This time i managed the traverse although the start was pretty damp, the second pitch was easy, the third pitch was pretty terrifying and i suffered terribly from rope drag. The fourth pitch scuppered me, i could edge round the corner but was then faced with getting onto a ledge with no protection and a 5 metre run out, pretty easy climbing but i bottled it. in the words of terminator "I'll be back"

with Leign Chambers, Lucy Byrne
Hidden 17/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
R0bbie 22/Mar/08 Lead dnf
with Leign Chambers, Lucy Byrne, Johnny Miller
Sandy Simpson ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden ??/2008 -
pedrosanpb ??/2008 AltLd O/S

Did the swim in white water, seconded the first slimy horrible traverse then brilliant climbing to the top. Epic.

with Adrian Berry (not that one), Steve Barby, Andrew Lodge
reg_measures ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with henry and steve
Jim Walton ??/2008 -
Hoyes 10/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Jon R
Hidden 12/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
snave29 ??/2007 -
barney_edin ??/2007 AltLd
with Simon G
Chris L Hill ?/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
with Simon Pearce
Hidden 12/Aug/06 2nd O/S
centurion05 ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

nice route

with lee wales
Hidden ?/Jul/06 AltLd
joe king 15/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with steve petit
steveP 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Dhonny_Jaws ?/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Bob M 01/Aug/05 AltLd

A wonderful adventure. Tyrolean rope in-situ so no need to swim! In 4 pitches - I led pitches 1 (the traverse)and 3.

Hidden 18/Jul/05 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/05 AltLd
chapmand ?/Jun/05 AltLd
with Matt Balmer, Dan Stickland
ross1983 01/Apr/05 AltLd

My first sea stack: scary but good all at the same time. Had trouble route finding.

with JD
mattierd 26/Mar/05 -
KRB 31/Aug/04 Lead O/S

Good weather and good climb.

with Chris & Martin
victim of mathematics 29/Jul/04 2nd O/S
crossdressingrodney 29/Jul/04 Lead O/S
RAK 23/Jul/04 AltLd dog

Fell seconding wet first pitch

with Lauri
Mike Lee 10/Jun/04 2nd

Another great sea stack - swim included! 240ft VS 5a 4 pitch

with Liz
Hidden ?/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
Tenko ??/2004 AltLd
Peter Smith ??/2004 2nd
Hidden 24/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Ken Applegate ?/Aug/03 AltLd
with Andy Barker
cpoad 29/May/03 2nd O/S

We had to set up the Tyrolean. The book has 4 pitches but we did 5 by breaking the first into 2. The third pitch was the hardest and didn't have great gear. The first involved horizontal hand jamming. On the second pitch we took a more difficult route through the overhang, but it's easy going round to the left apparently.

with Mathew Perks (Steve Grey's friend), James S
Hidden ?/May/03 -
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd
Laramadness ??/2003 AltLd
with Pete, JC
Dave Kerr 17/Aug/02 Lead

12 on summit for my stag (stack) do. Is this a record?

with Simon Reid, Dave Cashman
James B ?/Jun/02 AltLd
with Nigel
tri-nitro-tuolumne ?/Jun/02 AltLd
with James B
dycotiles ?/Sep/01 AltLd O/S

Led the 4th pitch.

with Pascal
jk25002 25/May/01 -
Captain Solo 05/May/01 2nd
with Colin
brianrunner ??/2001 -
Hidden 21/Oct/00 AltLd O/S
mike fenwick ?/Aug/00 AltLd
with Dave Sykes
IanGilbertJones 25/May/00 AltLd O/S
Chad123 ?/May/00 AltLd O/S

Excellent rock, naked swim and tyrolean traverse.....

with Muppet
Lone Rider ??/2000 -
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
Darragh ??/2000 AltLd
with Adrian et al.
BRUCESTRAC ??/1999 -
BRUCESTRAC ??/1999 -
andrewbooth1000 ?/Oct/98 AltLd

Climbed mostly with Matt Munro, though also with Pete Watson, Sam Williams and Ben Hirst. Turned into an epic with the last pitch climbed in the dark with two head torches!

with Matt Munro
Hidden ?/Jun/98 AltLd O/S
dangates ??/1998 AltLd
with Nick Tarmey/ Kirk Watson
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/97 AltLd
Bruce Kerr 07/Aug/97 Lead
with Jamie Bankhead
tracyclimber ?/Jul/97 AltLd O/S

Beautiful sunny day. Wet Tyrolean back due to sea foam. Don't let go of the ropes after the abseil back down! Was VS 4a-4b when I climbed it

Hidden ??/1997 -
TrollJester ??/1997 AltLd O/S

Alt leads, I took the pitches I hadn't led with Phil B on my 1st visit. Another memorable day.

with Bruce A Strachan
kp64zl ?/Sep/96 Lead
with Kirsten
Hidden 18/Aug/95 2nd
craig h ?/Aug/95 AltLd

Jim; after a few beers agreed to do the swim ;-)

with Janet Hannah, Jim Mellor
jim_randell 25/May/94 AltLd O/S

My first sea stack and my first Tyrolean traverse.

with MB
Hidden 01/May/94 AltLd O/S
CMacD ??/1994 -
Hidden 28/Sep/93 Lead O/S
malc 14/Aug/92 Lead
Hammy 09/Sep/91 -
with Rob Lawson
alan moore ??/1991 -

At the time, our greatest adventure, and probably always will be.

Ghastly Rubberfeet ?/Aug/90 Lead
with Therry Cooper
Tom Phillips 20/Jun/90 Lead
with bruce
mark mcgowan01 ??/1990 -
TrollJester ??/1990 AltLd O/S
with Phil Blackwood
Richard Weller ?/Aug/88 Solo
Richard Weller ?/Aug/88 Solo
rogerskews 31/May/88 AltLd O/S

Sea rather rough, but after doing battle with the sea, rock and deadly accurate fulmars, one old sea dog, a very fit pup, and a young lady finally sat on the top all grinning from ear to ear. Abseils interesting (short ropes!) and as tide was now high and I was the heaviest, I was sent across first to see if the others would get wet! Great adventure not to be missed.

with Bryn Roberts & Jan Campbell
Hidden ?/Jun/86 Lead
Hidden ?/Nov/85 AltLd
babymoac ?/Sep/83 AltLd
with MTW
arduff ??/1980 AltLd

Jumped over (dry) tyrolleaned back

with Andy Callingham
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
heavy ??/1979 AltLd
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1978 -
with Dylan
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Votes cast 63
High 5b
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Votes cast 58
Votes cast 60
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